My Ducato Clutch nightmare (1 Viewer)

[Nick's Ducato]

Bought a 2010 Ducato 2.3 multijet for conversion at 117,000 miles and ran with no problems to 124,000 miles.
Then first problem - clutch pedal - flat to floor, no clutch, no fluid loss. RAC and garage diagnosis Clutch master cylinder failure!
New master cylinder fitted, smooth pedal pressure on most of its travel restored, progressive clutch dis-engagement, purrrrfect!
50 mile later - pedal flat to floor, restored by vigorous pedal pumping - back to the garage to be re-bled.
Van returned, feels fine ..... for 15 miles!!!!! then starts to fail rapidly Manage to reach home, to be recovered by the RAC back to the garage.
Still no fluid loss. solution - Gearbox out to fit a New clutch and slave cylinder .... at great expense!
Van returned, feels fine for 120 miles, then suddenly pedal goes halfway to floor before picking up any hydraulic pressure.
This morning, barely enough pedal movement (about an inch) to dis-engage the clutch!!!!!
What else is there to renew?
What is going on?

 

[Guigsy]

Sounds like if you dodge the Comformatic bullet the manual clutch gremlins will get you?

Is this in part a non-use problem, ie are commercial users similarly afflicted?

I had a clutch issue in my previous 2007. I'm pretty sure it was due to lack of maintenance from previous owners. The fluid is the same circuit as the brakes. Brake fluid change probably only partially changes the stuff trapped in the clutch circuit. It is possible to flush it, but it's not easy.

I don't think panel vans doing commercial work would ever experience my problem because they'd be long dead before getting to 15 years old.

Generally though, I think the manual box is pretty reliable. Early x250s had issues with reverse (Comfortmatic too I think?), but that's long since been fixed.

 

[earthstrider]

Hi
The poster you quoted came on a then disappeared over 2 years ago so you will not get an answer from him. Hopefully someone else might reply.

It was a long shot but worth a try. Help please anyone!

 

[jongood]

Sounds like if you dodge the Comformatic bullet the manual clutch gremlins will get you?

Is this in part a non-use problem, ie are commercial users similarly afflicted?

You're never immune from problems but with a manual you can pull the pedal back up and carry on.

 

[jongood]

It was a long shot but worth a try. Help please anyone!

I take it you have checked fluid levels, then Check for leaks, if no leaks change master cylinder, if that doesn't work change slave, however SC might be inside the bell housing so not easy

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[jockaneezer]

Pop a piece of clean cardboard under the clutch housing and see if there's any oil on it overnight, that would indicate a knackered slave cylinder.

 

[L' Hobo]

It was a long shot but worth a try. Help please anyone!

When I purchased my 2007 X250 Ducato five years ago, after a while, the clutch pedal went to the floor a couple of times and had to be pulled up by hand.

I have a heavy marine engineering background where reliability is paramount, so I decided to investigate and bleed the clutch, this was when I discovered that it was not included in ANY Fiat service so the fluid was, possibly, over 13yrs old.

I soon discovered why it was not on any service schedule because one has to remove the air filter housing to get to the nipple (not the easiest job) I then connected my vacuum bleeder to the nipple and bleed.
The fluid was black, usually, not only a sign of old fluid but deteriorating rubber seals.

I found later that using the vacuum was a mistake and gravity bleeding should have been used.

Afterwards, I could not get not get any pressure on the pedal how ever much I tried until I used something I hadn't used for years. It's called back bleeding.

Connect a suringe of fluid to the nipple, get someone to compress the pedal and you force fluid in through the nipple.
It worked, but for how long I'm not sure because, with what appeared to be deteriorating seals, I changed the clutch and cylinders a few months later.
I've had no trouble since.

Hope this helps, good luck!

 

[gus-lopez]

You either have to reverse bleed it or allow gravity to do it over a long time.

On the Mark 6/7 transit front wheel drive the bleed nipple is easily accessible for the clutch.as long as the air is out from the slave to nipple pipe any air remaining will gravitate upwards past the master cylinder, which is on the clutch pedal & in to the reservoir. Basically self bleeds.
couple of hours & all is good

there's still probably stale fluid in the (shared system) clutch cylinders.

when the brakes are bled the clutch should be bled also.Any garage that doesn't does this I'd be asking why?

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

There will be an online video showing how to change the fluid. It can be a " ×%#$☆¿" of a job to do, I have that T shirt, but my clutch peddle had always felt heavy, as is now much lighter. P.S I did all the brakes at the same time.
Whether this is your issue I couldn't say, but a pot of DOT5 is cheap compared to the alternatives.
Mike.