More like a mobile swimming pool.

Joined
Feb 13, 2021
Posts
77
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Location
Newport Pagnell
Funster No
79,207
MH
Buccaneer Commodore
Exp
Since 2018.
I have learned after we bought the motorhome that Buccaneer motorhomes were very expensive when new. I have seen 3 others on the road and 2 in Facebook. So not all that popular.
All seemed ok with it until looking at it September when getting ready to take for an MoT. Noticed that a roof panel at the rear appeared to have bowed slightly downwards with a very small stain on the vinyl on the join.
Post photos later.
Decided it was a project in the New Year.
Come January I decided to investigate the panel further, it seemed to be spongy and moved quite easily. I thought 'go for it' and ripped the vinyl from the panel and discovered absolutely rotten and waterlogged timber, the polystyrene was wet but not holding water.
The vinyl is wrapped all around the panel so water had got in but could not get out or dry out
Get my head round what I had found. Apart from this bowing there was nothing to give any indication of what lay in the roof. No damp smell at all.
Previously I had found water coming out by the side of the skylight and traced that to a loose connection and poor seal around the the Truma gas fire vent, Fixed that problem, looked at the skylight, although wood was wet, did manage to dry it out.
Thinks, this wet panel needs further investigation, take down the cupboards on the sides and the rear. Take more vinyl off roof panels, timber just as wet or rotten.
Have a look at the driver side rear wall, start pulling at the the vinyl wall covering, I think it was held in place by the cupboards because it came off very easily and revealed rotten and delaminated plywood.
The rear wall was as bad as the side wall. Hadn't started on the passenger side wall yet.
Well the plywood peels off like paper leaving all support battens soaking wet and rotten. The batten along the top of the wall is rotten because again this wrapped in vinyl and water has got in. This is where the title comes from, I have had water running down my arms removing ceiling battens.
Have a look at the passenger side wall, pull off a bit of vinyl to reveal the back corner plywood rotten and a lot of water stain with the top few inches rotten. Again the top of the wall batten is rotten.
The vinyl has played a major part in the destruction of the plywood walls but appears to have protected the floor, that seems solid with no discernable movement.
I have read the posts with regard to the repair of a motorhome and find them very interesting but I will be along with some questions of my own. I was going to do this project in a barn/workshop but that became unavailable.
I need my motorhome on the road for when we are allowed to start travelling again so taking advantage of lockdown to get on with the project outside my house, unfortunately out in the open.
With the removal of most of the ceiling and one sidewall, would I be better putting a temporary batten across walls?
The next job is to remove the toilet/shower cubicle to check on the state of the roof and wall as well as the horizontal wall battens.
Amongst the many tips that have been provided and I am thankful for are a reciprocating multitool (Lidl special, a couple of weeks ago) and the extending panel supports from Screwfix.
I will add some photos later (as soon as I can get them off my phone. Back up and sync aren't bringing them onto laptop).
Thankyou to every one who has posted on other restorations and takes the time to read this post.
Any hints, tips and suggestions truly welcome. My wife has already suggested 5 litres of petrol and a match.
 
Peoples views please, my motorhome is built in aluminium with a wood frame. The back of the motorhome is a one piece fibreglass shell. There is a wooden frame that the fibreglass shell is glued onto, with polystyrene filling spaces for insulation. The fibreglass shell has got big voids in it.
Should I fill the voids with some sort of moisture resistant insulation and what can be recommended?
The pictures to give an idea of the voids.
Thanks John
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I would be inclined to insulate it but leave some space around the cables they look very thin and may run warm. If you want to fully insulate it put some new bigger cables in trunking.
What's the black box?
 
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Thanks for reply. The vertical cables are, thin grey one is for the third brakelight. The black wire is for the top rear marker light.
I am going to replace the brakelight cable anyway, in re-routing it is not long enough.
The cables at floor level are just the original loose wires for the rear lights, all now converted to led's.
The black box sits inside the habitation area under the seat, it is for the reversing sensors.
Now working in this area and can get to the back, thinking of reinforcing fibreglass with a piece of aluminium to take a reversing camera and running wires.
Any names for insulation?
John

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I have had a busy week taking out the old 'skeleton'. Wore out the Lidl oscillating saw, now replaced with a different make. Give credit to Lidl they refunded without a problem or making it difficult.
From other projects I am fortunate to have kept a router and a small table saw. Cut down battens to different widths and with the router able to shape the batten to the roof profile.
Digging out roof battens both sides, 2.4 metres, 50mm at a time was laborious and slow.
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I have glued most of the battens across the back of the van against the fibreglass. I used Gorilla foaming glue, supported on both sides while it went off. Must say I am impressed with the way that has turned out. Going to make a surround for the rear window and some vertical battens between horizontal battens. I have added some pocket hole screws as well as glue.
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This has been one massive learning curve and I am grateful for the support, comments and other posts which I refer back to constantly. Thanks 👍😊
 
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The rear wall is finished apart from insulation. I have put a piece of aluminium where I want a reversing camera (but not purchased yet, recommendations). The fibreglass rear panel is really good and strong now.
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I decided to give the near side wall some scrutiny, even worse than the off side. I trimmed the plywood that was damp and stained. Cutting back the polystyrene, there is a wooden beam at floor level and this is rotten and will need to come out. The offside one was just wet and slighty spongy, so treated with wood hardener.
There are no obvious signs of water penetration from the window or door. There is a seam on the outside at this level and wonder if the seal is not complete, allowing water in?
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I was hoping to start on the roof over Easter, oh well!!!
 

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Oh boy, you really have got some staying power most would have thrown the towel in long ago. I thought it was bad enough when I repaired a caravan wall years ago, this must be really disheartening every time you think you have got somewhere another problem arises.
Going to be nice and solid when finished, good luck with the rest of it.
 
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Todays little job, it was totally unplanned. It has gone reasonably well. I thought it would be like the other side but how wrong was I.
Trying to dismantle the wooden batten it really was like a swimming pool.
The alloy cap on the outside involved partly removing the fibreglass skirt and the dooframe to gain access to the screws.
I was then able to remove the rotten wood.
The outer skin does not meet or overlap a bracket that supports the batten allowing water that has penetrated through faulty fitting seal. This allows the batten to sit in a puddle of water, never able to dry out because of vinyl coverings.
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The faulty seal allowing water to penetrate.
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Digging rotten wood out of channel to assess how it was put together, so I could take it apart.
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The batten was rotten from the back almost to the door. I will replace all of it.
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Dropping the skirt down to gain access to screws to undo the aluminium capping. The back of the motorhome is over the pavement, so the jack was needed to raise body a couple of inches, to allow easier access to undo skirt screws. No danger.
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The sidewall is released from the floor allowing easier removal of rotten batten.
Finish cleaning the sidewall and the channel so it can be gloss painted so I can use Tannalised wooden batten.
I will have to take the doorframe out to assess the damage, some screws were only held in by mastic.
Motorhome Fun!!!
John

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Keep up the good work John. You'll have to reregister it as a 21 plate when you're finished. 😉
 
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A bit more help please. Because of circumstances have not been able to work on mobile swimming pool aka motorhome.
Now looking to start on the roof, I have decided upon closer inspection, that some screws in the roof are a bodge repair because the frame underneath was rotten and did not support the roof, it was filled with sikaflex and the fibreglass roof capping was screwed to the aluminium roof.
I would like to remove these screws from the roof. I thought of making the hole clean, filling with a clear 2 part epoxy and before it sets, support with a piece of aluminium tape. Does this seem like a plan?
I will be taking the fibreglass roof capping off and replacing the butyl tape sealer before finishing with PU40.
There are 4 screws showing through the aluminium roof.
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Johnenigma can't help with your query just want to say I so admire your tenacity and skill.
One day you will be able to look back at this while chilling nicely in the sun.
 
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Johnenigma can't help with your query just want to say I so admire your tenacity and skill.
One day you will be able to look back at this while chilling nicely in the sun.
Thank you for your support. One day sun and a glass of beer!!! Don't forget the beer. :cool:🍺
 
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if there was any flexing, I think it would cause cracking in the filler, can you not use the holes and put a rib there to support it, or would that be in the way for your plans,
 
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if there was any flexing, I think it would cause cracking in the filler, can you not use the holes and put a rib there to support it, or would that be in the way for your plans,
I understand what you are saying but I was looking to do away with the screws, because they are a bodge repair. There would be a layer of butyl tape going over the redundant screw holes, then the cap would cover the butyl tape, then seal with PU40. I suppose I could make sure the epoxy covered screw holes had a cover of PU40.
Where the white mark on the roof is, there will a batten there to take the fixings for the wall cupboards.
That would make 4 battens at that point running to the back.
Thanks. John

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Hi to people that have been following my thread and not seen any progress, I have not seen any progress either, due to family commitments.
Missed all the fine weather, now I can get back to it, rain is forecast. Will be back soon. Thanks. John
 
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I think that all I can say is a BIG WELL DONE!
It will be worth it one day and you will sit in the sun and enjoy that Beer
Mike & Ann
 
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