Might Re-Selfbuild our van. Thoughts on this design?

[Wissel]

Next update video for anyone interested. Make-shift workshop time, lot's of bit s arrived etc...

 

[Wissel]

Hoping to get on with my build next week, so thought I'd better finalise my bed frame deign.

I want the bed base to lift on ottoman hinges and give access to our lay flat wardrobes below.
I also want the headboard to incline for day use.

This is what I've come up with and would like opinions on:

The wardrobe bit will only be where the ottoman hinges are. The bit under the headboard will be accessed from the rear of the vehicle (a second boot for clean items).

The lift-up incline mechanism will be the same sort of design as an old style deck chair.

On top of the frame will be 12mm plywood and in two parts:

The ply above the headrest will be joined to the incline frame. There will be a finger hole at the top of each bed to incline the headrest.

When the wardrobe is accessed, the bit of mattress covering the headrest will lift without the base below it (so will just hang in the air).

The mattress will be cut half way through at the join point. This should make lifting the headrest easy, without leaving a join that could be uncomfortable to sleep on.

On top of the ply base will be Froli springs.

Think that's everything. Have I missed anything or does this design have an obvious flaw?

Thanks.

 

[two]

I think the mattress might split at the join because it will be weak there. Maybe wait and see how stiff/flexible it is, first, before cutting part way through.

Agree that two separate bases might not be so comfy to sleep on, especially if it’s where your elbow would be when rolling over.

I’d raise the hinge side of the ottoman top, to contain the mattress when raised.

Draw the bed lift again. It won’t work as you’ve shown it.

 

[Wissel]

I think the mattress might split at the join because it will be weak there. Maybe wait and see how stiff/flexible it is, first, before cutting part way through.

Agree that two separate bases might not be so comfy to sleep on, especially if it’s where your elbow would be when rolling over.

I’d raise the hinge side of the ottoman top, to contain the mattress when raised.

Draw the bed lift again. It won’t work as you’ve shown it.

My idea on the mattress is to use the type I have now. It's (from memory) 75mm of quite a dense foam with 25mm of memory foam on top. The idea is to cut through the dense foam only.

I have some here so can give this a go before ordering more.

I did originally have the whole bed base lifting, but think I will run into trouble when inclining due to fulcrum. I want the head to incline in one action (so want the base and incline frame attached), but guess I could think about a small sliding mount.

Your last point took me a minute

I've altered the design so the lift frame finished 50mm back now.

Thanks

 

[two]

In addition:

The plan does not match the elevation: The drop down spar is in different places (or, maybe the elevation is from the centre rather than the side).

The hinge bolt for the drop down spar goes through the base as well.

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[Minxy]

In addition:

The plan does not match the elevation: The drop down spar is in different places (or, maybe the elevation is from the centre rather than the side).

The hinge bolt for the drop down spar goes through the base as well.

I've now worked out what you mean ...

On the first lot of drawings the side view shows the support spar sandwiched between the fixed horizontal side piece and the rising bed base itself, but in the top view it shows it on the inside - IMV it needs to be sandwiched as in the side view otherwise the locating dowel won't be able to sit in the cut-outs.

Also the spar 'pivot' dowel on the top view is shown as going right through the fixed horizontal side piece AND the rising bed base so it wouldn't move at all if you did that.

 

[Minxy]

My idea on the mattress is to use the type I have now. It's (from memory) 75mm of quite a dense foam with 25mm of memory foam on top. The idea is to cut through the dense foam only.

You might find it easier to have the base mattress as a separate entity and use a memory foam topper as well - that way the mattress part could be cut into 2 and fixed to the base (Velcro?) so you don't end up having to manoeuvre it back into place if you lift the backrest support part or even delve into the ottoman/wardrobe. The memory foam one-piece section would then bend when you lifted the backrest support as they are much more pliable

This would also mean you can leave the mattress section without a separate cover (ie just as you have it made originally) and just use one for the topper itself which means laundry would only entail removing and washing the topper cover. If you also had a 'full' topper cover, ie like a pillow case, you wouldn't end up having to keep tucking in the sheets etc after you've lifted the base up or have to try to strip the mattress itself which wouldn't be easy with a 'join' in it.

 

[Minxy]

I've been mulling over your 'lifting' mechanism and have come up with a stumbling block! When you lift the head end the mattress base itself will naturally want to 'slide' up as you do so (otherwise they would squish into each other) which means that if you do go with my idea of fixing the pieces of the mattress with Velcro etc won't work as is ... it would only be workable on the piece above the ottoman ... this also brings up the question that even if you don't fix the mattresses to the bases they may still not 'slide' easily ... when the head end is raised.

The only solution I can come up with at the moment is for the base dowel of the lifting section to be able to slide backwards as the other end is raised ... with the front dowel going into notches as well, in a similar way that the rising end support does ... I've had a play with Powerpoint which I think explains it much better in images!

I have some other ideas but its time for bed now so I'll have to leave it to another day!

 

[Wissel]

Thanks @Minxy Girl

The mattress sliding shouldn't be an issue (I hope).

There will be a gap of 10-15mm between the two base boards to allow the head piece to lift without catching the main base (same effect as your mattress drawing as head ply joined to lifting frame). This won't matter as the Froli system raises the mattress away from the gap.

Then to lift the head, the mattress needs to be lifted slightly to get to the finger slot. As it will be lifted, it shouldn't snag on anything. Does that all make sense? (pre-coffee)

The mattress itself won't be able to move around, due to the solution I have designed to lift the wardrobe bit. I'll leave that for now though.

 

[Wissel]

Been a good day today. New phone arrived, Van PC is finally finished and had an email from RoadPro - my charger has arrived and being dispatched today

Oh. And this arrived

This is our new Dometic PR4500 electric awning and the mounting bracket. I sorted this out at the show in Feb

This is the legless version with wind sensor. A little heavier than some awnings, but I've saved so much weight in other areas it's not an issue. Besides, this is what we wanted.

It can be set up at the touch of a button (or remote), puts itself away if the wind gets up and will auto retract (along with the step) when we want to drive. Not having legs is a real bonus as we have to have our dog on a tether. In an earlier van he nearly broke the legs a few times.

Now it's here I can fit it and order the remaining solar panels - wanted it fitted first to double check clearances as my roof is getting tight on space.

Solar panels should only take a few days to get here, then full steam ahead with the build (can't wait to really throw myself into this)

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[two]

Exciting times!
Hope it all goes together well.

 

[Minxy]

@Wissel ... I was just mooching around on Ebay looking for some removable headrests to help another funster and came across these so thought of you ... it would mean you wouldn't have to try to make your own wooden framework ...

 

[CazPaul]

Hi Wissel, did you get the plywood box made and fibreglass it for the fresh/waste tanks and does it work in practise?
How far are you off finishing the van?

 

[Wissel]

Hi Wissel, did you get the plywood box made and fibreglass it for the fresh/waste tanks and does it work in practise?
How far are you off finishing the van?

I haven't built the under box (yet). Still in two minds about it tbh.

Finishing? I've hardly started

I've stripped out the old van, planned every detail I can think of and re-planned loads of the build. I have almost everything here ready to fit now and I'm free to build full-time in another week (I took a few extra jobs on to help pay for all this).

I need to order deadlocks in the morning (want to fit the security products first) and two more solar panels (was tight on space so couldn't order until I was sure what would fit and needed the awning here to be sure). Then I'll blast through it everyday until ready.

Actually tempted to start on the roof today as weather is nice (electric awning, MaxFan, 4G antenna etc) but have man flu

I'll see how I feel post coffee.

@Minxy Girl - Cheers for the links.

 

[Wissel]

Well that didn't happen

Didn't feel too bad when still crashed in bed with laptop. Did as soon as I stood up (then fell over lol).

So no van roof today, but did manage to cook us a Vegas breakfast

I now have a happy other half, tummy and dog

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[Minxy]

@Wissel - where are you getting your solar panels from and what are you getting?

 

[Wissel]

@Wissel - where are you getting your solar panels from and what are you getting?

Just from eBay as they are the same as my existing panels:


Then I'll Sika them to 25mm aluminium box section and Sika to roof. Did this with my last two panels and they are perfect 5 years down the line. The aluminium box makes it easy to fit to corrugated roof and gives a nice air gap underneath. This is my existing roof:

 

[Minxy]

Ta - could you just Sika them directly to the roof rather than to box section first? I'm still trying to decide whether to go flexi or rigid again ...

 

[Wissel]

Ta - could you just Sika them directly to the roof rather than to box section first? I'm still trying to decide whether to go flexi or rigid again ...

You might struggle without box section due to the curves, but you could use a smaller box section?
Plus it's much easier to cut the join between the box and the panel at a later date if you need to replace.

Well worth having the air gap if you can as panels don't work as well hot, plus you're not transferring heat directly against your roof and into van.

I considered the flexi panels as well, but there does seem to be a lot more complaints about failures, and about them going cloudy. I figured better the devil and all that.

EDIT - I only fitted the box section to the short ends. That's the only place it joins to my roof.

 

[Minxy]

Ah, I see now, I thought you meant you'd put the box section all round!

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[two]

I reckon you'd need a 'flat' surface to stick flexible panels on (no ridges).

 

[Minxy]

I reckon you'd need a 'flat' surface to stick flexible panels on (no ridges).

On our current PVC I stuck a 60w flexi panel on without a problem, just sticking it to the raised parts of the roof ... it's never moved and has worked perfectly for nearly 3 years.

 

[two]

I assume that you arranged it so that both edges ended up along a raised bit? I think i'd choose rigid for that kind of roof. Cheaper, easier to remove, better cooling...

 

[Wissel]

Been a fairly productive weekend on the van. Until I realised I didn't have the right size cable glands here to fit the extra solar panels and they are 18.5mm instead of the usual 20mm. Still, everything else up there is done now and the extra solar will be tomorrow hopefully.

Quick pic of the awning (Dometic PR4500):

 

[two]

The more detail you put into your plans, the better everything will go. Remember the maxim: “Measure twice, cut once.”

I suggest that you make detailed drawings of your furniture rather than work from the ideas we’ve seen in the ‘snazzy’ layouts. Look very carefully at material thicknesses and how joints will be achieved, and the areas swept by doors and drawers.

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[Wissel]

The more detail you put into your plans, the better everything will go. Remember the maxim: “Measure twice, cut once.”

I suggest that you make detailed drawings of your furniture rather than work from the ideas we’ve seen in the ‘snazzy’ layouts. Look very carefully at material thicknesses and how joints will be achieved, and the areas swept by doors and drawers.

Cheers Rogher. Thankfully that part is something I'm well trained in (design and build side). I'll be glad when I get to that stage tbh.

 

[Wissel]

Not much room left up there

Still have the 4G antenna and a cable gland for the awning to fit towards the back. And must get around to touching up the flaky paint at the rear

 

[two]

Neat!

 

[Wissel]

Well it's all going forwards. Although it feels backwards half the time

I wanted as much done as possible before any furniture goes in. The roof is finished, the underside is almost finished. This is one side:

The awning is fitted, as is the step, deadlocks, awning light (dometic gutter version), wheel trims and the window bars (these are so we can have the windows open with our dog).

It's had a good clean and the trims blacked, still needs a few paint touch ups, the old awning light hole repairing, the BBQ point fitting and a polish. And that bit of bird crap cleaning on the top right

On the other side:

I've reversed the toilet cassette and fitted a door, also fitted the iMass water heater (so pleased with this). Still have the trim to cut (waiting for new trim fixings).

Apart from the above, I have rear floods to fit, tidy the reversing cameras, fit the graphics and the outside is done.

Hoping to finish the water and gas plumbing over the next few days - then fit the whole electrical system which is something I'm looking forward to

 

[Minxy]

What's this for ...

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