Jane & Rog Plod to Portugal

[Mr porky]

Sadly we’re missed a few places we’d hoped to see, rushing south to avoid the rain. Next time!

Done that a couple of times whilst enjoying Portugal, it's the lure of the weather in the algarve that does it

 

[Jane And Rog]

Finally a sunny day! Even though, stuffed with suckling pig, we’d slept in, we decided Évora deserved more time. It was a good decision - bathed in sunshine, cafés setting up outside tables, it was a different town.

First up a viewing of the surprising complete Roman Temple.

All you can do is gaze at the outsides though, but as I circumnavigated it, I found a church, its banner claiming it to be the most beautiful in Portugal.

The Church of São João Evangelista was definitely worth the price of admission. The insides were almost entirely covered with blue and white Portuguese tiles.

There were regular groupings making larger tile artworks.

An 18C unveiling of a concrete elephant

We walked back down the narrow streets, and found the lady souvenir shop of my dreams. I do like a higher quality of tat. Among other things, I got this necklace.

Wet motorhome table model’s own

Rog had wanted a second breakfast of a pastel de nata, but this most important of purchases was subject to analysis paralysis, or dithering as I call it, and once we’d realised we couldn’t check the van’s internal temperature (comms fail), it had to be abandoned.

The shop above failed as it had ceramic model pastels de nata in the window. Male logic, don’t you love it.

Back at Denby temperatures were OK but rising, so we packed up and headed south, stopping for lunch, or breakfast as I call it, at a rather late 1pm.

Breakfast

We were aiming for Camping Serra da Bica, a small place in the middle of nowhere with just 12 pitches. The owner looked at me as if I were demanding front row seats at the Oasis reunion, rather than just a place for the night. “Didn’t you book? Well, we’re full.”

A hurried replan and a confirmatory phone call later, we were heading back 25 minutes north to Camping Monte de Rocha. This turned out to be a good option. It was a bit bleak and empty, with just two other vans on a space that takes 500, apparently.

But it was quiet and the showers were good, and best of all, it was a short walk down to the reservoir, which made Flynn’s doggy day.

He was so happy to find the lake, he had to rush back to tell us how brilliant it was.

Look! Human! Big water!

After cleaning everything, van, people, dog (in lake), we had a sundowner. All we could hear was the sound of cicadas, a Proustian memory of childhood holidays in the South of France. Instantly it feels like summer, despite November not being far away. (And rain storms forecast for tomorrow.)

We barbecued piri-piri chicken, squashed new potatoes and salad. Well, not the latter, obviously.

Lunch

Then the whole of the outdoors stuff was packed away, as the awning had been earlier - we’re going to be better boy scouts than we were in Slovakia.

 

[cyberyacht]

Rained a few days ago in Vigo. Rained this morning in Lisbon although to be fair it has just about stopped now.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Rained a few days ago in Vigo. Rained this morning in Lisbon although to be fair it has just about stopped now.

Ventusky is scary right now. The whole map is red and orange.

 

[Grianan]

Ventusky is scary right now. The whole map is red and orange.

We’re setting off for 2 weeks tomorrow … so far Ventusky has ruled out - France, Netherlands and,today, Germany. I need to change weather app!

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[Jane And Rog]

The weather we’d been promised: thunder with a chance of being washed into the Atlantic didn’t arrive. Instead as day broke it was just grey.

Doom!​

We knew this couldn’t last so planned a stop in a town to see the storms out. We settled on Silves the historic capital of Argave. Silves has a castle, a well regarded Aire and a reputation for good food. Ideal to see out the rain. But first a walk for Flynn.

We parked up in a tiny car park on the outskirts of Santana de Serra and walked up into the hills. Not only did the rain hold off, the sun came out. As did several huge sheepdogs to tell Flynn he should jolly well keep on walking. He never seems bothered by guard dogs - either he’s super brave or he knows what they’re asking him to do. Eventually we had to cut the walk short because Flynn was overheating. Of course, he was able to control this though diligent use of puddles.

View back to Santana de Serra.​

Making the most of a tiny puddle.​

Once in Silves we asked the friendly guardian for a restaurant recommendation. We’d decided that now was the right time to pull out our secret super power in the face of bad weather: the boozy blow out lunch. The guardian gave us two recommendations which didn’t sound promising. One was “on the other side of town” and “just like grandmother’s cooking” the other “special fish, all the tourists go there”. We dutifully added them to Mundus and set out under threatening clouds.

The touristy fish place (Marisqueira Rui) was nothing of the sort. It looked business like, unpretentious and was full of locals - Portuguese anyway - stuffing a bewildering variety of seafood.

Some shellfish:

Goose neck barnacles​

Red prawns​

Japanese fighting whelks​

The gooseneck barnacles are delicious but only really eaten in Portugal and Spain. Opening them is somewhat of a trick. After the table next to us watched us spray ourselves with barnacle juice in the attempt they kindly showed us how to nip the heads off.

After that a massive pot of lobster rice.

Lobster pot​

We probably over ordered but that’s part of the fun. Anyway half of the lobster is now in Denby’s fridge (probably) for tomorrow’s lunch. So that’s actually saving money.

After all that we basically collapsed in Denby all afternoon sitting out the rain with occasional trots for Flynn round the park next to the aire.

Oh, except for a quick constitutional pastel del Silves

Yum.​

 

[Jane And Rog]

After our boozy lunch, I drew the cliffs & waves at Praia de Cresmina.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

View attachment 963782

After our boozy lunch, I drew the cliffs & waves at Praia de Cresmina.

We loved Silves, and like you had a good meal there. Fab fresh juices in the castle cafe too. The storks we amazing, literally hundreds of them.

Anyway, did you really draw that? If so you’re a genius.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We loved Silves, and like you had a good meal there. Fab fresh juices in the castle cafe too. The storks we amazing, literally hundreds of them.

Anyway, did you really draw that? If so you’re a genius.

No, just learning. I’m using the Procreate app on my iPad which I use far more then when I used to take a sketch book & pencils the whole trip and never touch them.

We’ve seen just a few storks this trip - I think they must have started their migration?

 

[Wanders from Glos]

No, just learning. I’m using the Procreate app on my iPad which I use far more then when I used to take a sketch book & pencils the whole trip and never touch them.

We’ve seen just a few storks this trip - I think they must have started their migration?

I’ll have to have a look at that. As you say maybe they have started to migrate with the change in weather. They were in the fields opposite the camper stop a little further up the road from the other aire.

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[windboy]

We also saw some yesterday in Portugal

 

[Jane And Rog]

I saw a few more this morning. I looked it up and they fly south in August and September, but greater numbers are now over-wintering on the Iberian peninsula- climate change maybe.

 

[varaizian]

Finally a sunny day! Even though, stuffed with suckling pig, we’d slept in, we decided Évora deserved more time. It was a good decision - bathed in sunshine, cafés setting up outside tables, it was a different town.

View attachment 963156

First up a viewing of the surprising complete Roman Temple.

View attachment 963157

All you can do is gaze at the outsides though, but as I circumnavigated it, I found a church, its banner claiming it to be the most beautiful in Portugal.

The Church of São João Evangelista was definitely worth the price of admission. The insides were almost entirely covered with blue and white Portuguese tiles.

View attachment 963158

There were regular groupings making larger tile artworks.

View attachment 963159
An 18C unveiling of a concrete elephant

We walked back down the narrow streets, and found the lady souvenir shop of my dreams. I do like a higher quality of tat. Among other things, I got this necklace.

View attachment 963160
Wet motorhome table model’s own

Rog had wanted a second breakfast of a pastel de nata, but this most important of purchases was subject to analysis paralysis, or dithering as I call it, and once we’d realised we couldn’t check the van’s internal temperature (comms fail), it had to be abandoned.

View attachment 963161

The shop above failed as it had ceramic model pastels de nata in the window. Male logic, don’t you love it.

Back at Denby temperatures were OK but rising, so we packed up and headed south, stopping for lunch, or breakfast as I call it, at a rather late 1pm.

View attachment 963163
Breakfast

We were aiming for Camping Serra da Bica, a small place in the middle of nowhere with just 12 pitches. The owner looked at me as if I were demanding front row seats at the Oasis reunion, rather than just a place for the night. “Didn’t you book? Well, we’re full.”

A hurried replan and a confirmatory phone call later, we were heading back 25 minutes north to Camping Monte de Rocha. This turned out to be a good option. It was a bit bleak and empty, with just two other vans on a space that takes 500, apparently.

View attachment 963165


But it was quiet and the showers were good, and best of all, it was a short walk down to the reservoir, which made Flynn’s doggy day.

View attachment 963166

He was so happy to find the lake, he had to rush back to tell us how brilliant it was.

View attachment 963168
Look! Human! Big water!

After cleaning everything, van, people, dog (in lake), we had a sundowner. All we could hear was the sound of cicadas, a Proustian memory of childhood holidays in the South of France. Instantly it feels like summer, despite November not being far away. (And rain storms forecast for tomorrow.)

We barbecued piri-piri chicken, squashed new potatoes and salad. Well, not the latter, obviously.

View attachment 963169
Lunch

Then the whole of the outdoors stuff was packed away, as the awning had been earlier - we’re going to be better boy scouts than we were in Slovakia.

Your Flynne who, I now realise, is much larger than I initially thought is completely different to ours who actually walks around puddles rather than get her paws wet. She has never swum in her 6 year life although the beach is her element. Surprising since she is half Labrador. On particularly hot days or when she has run about too much she will cool off her belly at the edge but jumps up if a ripple arrives!

 

[Jane And Rog]

Your Flynne who, I now realise, is much larger than I initially thought is completely different to ours who actually walks around puddles rather than get her paws wet. She has never swum in her 6 year life although the beach is her element. Surprising since she is half Labrador. On particularly hot days or when she has run about too much she will cool off her belly at the edge but jumps up if a ripple arrives!

Yeah, he’s a fair-sized dog, about 33kg. Certainly our PVC gets pretty full with two adults and him! And he’s certainly keen on water!

 

[activecampers]

No, just learning. I’m using the Procreate app on my iPad which I use far more then when I used to take a sketch book & pencils the whole trip and never touch them.

We’ve seen just a few storks this trip - I think they must have started their migration?

There is an app for that? I thought you just needed to ply someone with wine?

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[Jane And Rog]

Not a great start to the day for me, with stomach pains and frequent loo visits called for.

I tried to join Rog on the dog walk but had to rush back to Denby while he carried on over the Roman bridge and out of town. At least that let me get a load of washing on in the aire’s machine (Miele, fancy!) and put it on to dry while I cleaned the van.

Silves is a really good town, deserving of the special Base Camp status in my app, Mundus. I use this for places near a town with plenty to see and eat, with a campsite with services and near lots of good walking. Silves has some of the best walks we’ve found and all in a town setting.

90 minutes later, Rog got back from the walk and had a massive helping of the lobster rice for lunch, with a bowl left over for Flynn’s dinner. Not sure kibble is going to cut the mustard after this trip - he’s already asking for a nice vinho verde to accompany his meals, and perhaps some dry-cured ham to start?

Rog managed an hour back at the van before getting stir-crazy. I really wanted to go into town with him and explore the castle but my stomach said no way. How annoying, I hate being ill on holiday.

There was nothing in the van suitable to eat - not that I was hungry but wondered if something bland would help. I texted Rog to ask him to buy a banana. Don’t come back specially, I said, not thinking that it would be another hour and a half before I heard from him again, asking what I wanted from Lidl. Porridge, soup, tummy cures, I texted back, wondering if it would be 3pm before I got my breakfast!

Tummy still hurting and feeling very fed up.

 

[BillyBear]

I’m not surprised by the tummy upset Jane you guys don’t seem afraid of eating anything put in front of you.
Stick with fish and chips from a newspaper

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I’m not surprised by the tummy upset Jane you guys don’t seem afraid of eating anything put in front of you.
Stick with fish and chips from a newspaper

Sorry to hear you are unwell, hopefully a 24 hour thing. Going to say the opposite of BillyBear … stay adventurous, but carry Loperamide, if you don’t already. At least Silves is a good base.

 

[The Coops]

Is Portugal the major cork producer? Just asking for a friend! Dodgy barnacles, do you think?

 

[Jane And Rog]

Sorry to hear you are unwell, hopefully a 24 hour thing. Going to say the opposite of BillyBear … stay adventurous, but carry Loperamide, if you don’t already. At least Silves is a good base.

We do thank goodness. But I’ve already had the maximum of 6. Apparently Lidl didn’t have soup or porridge, but Rog did bring a banana back which was something.

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[scousebird]

I hope you feel better soon

 

[Jane And Rog]

Is Portugal the major cork producer? Just asking for a friend! Dodgy barnacles, do you think?

There’s a cork shop just in town. Maybe I’ll send Rog off to get various sizes…

 

[Jane And Rog]

Well, I’ve been to the supermarket and miracle of miracles, found some soup, and I feel a little better after eating it. It’ll be a quiet night in the van tonight and hope to feel better in the morning. We’ll be taking the aire up on their offer of a third night free!

 

[Jane And Rog]

Whilst Jane was in her sick bed, the away team went into town. Although the sky was still mostly blanketed with thick grey cloud, the rain held off and sometimes the sun appeared with a welcome burst of heat.

Up in the walled town I saw what I think was a local student initiation ceremony. The 2nd and 3rd years, in their badged gowns, leading the tee shirt clad freshers through town accompanied by semi organised chanting and a large wooden spoon.

Idle fops.​

What a waste of government money. Back in my day this valuable time for education would have been spent in the pub, supporting the trickle down economy.

Then to the cathedral. I couldn’t see much of it because some entitled millennials had taken over the whole place with a wedding.

Lovely girl, she could do better though. It was awfully soon after they met don’t you think?
​

Then the star in Silves crown: the castle. The first building here was (probably) built by the Lusitanians (the Celtic inhabitants of the Iberian peninsula) and then fortified by the Romans. But the main action is a moorish citadel - the oldest in these here parts. It was subject to some heavy crusading action by the French before being recaptured by the young kingdom of Portugal.

The history is the most interesting thing though. The castle is big but with the exception of the curtain walls - ruined.

I walked the walls then left for a stroll round town. Silves is a lovely town, a little run down in places and with a faint scent of cat piss everywhere. Some lovely streets though.

View back towards the cathedral​

Can’t think where the smell comes from.​

The cats all live in the central square in an official cat tower block. Touring with Flynn tomorrow will be fun.

After a refreshment by the cathedral, I returned to Denby via the biggest Lidl I’ve ever seen. My goal was to buy some invalid supplies; chicken soup and the like. Trouble is, although the Lidl was massive, they’d just expanded the middle to be five aisles rather than two. Plenty of cheap screwdrivers, not so many tins of nourishing soup.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We’ve been on the road for a couple of weeks now so it was finally wash day. As I’d already seen the castle and cathedral I baby sat the washing machine whilst jane walked round town.

Lazy storks​

When she returned, the rain had gone so we’ve set the chairs up - the site is technically an aire so it’s not what you’d call lovely but we do overlook the river (through a chain link fence) and some greenery.

Vista.​

Despite this, our neighbours seem to have set up for the winter with massive solar arrays and Sagres chairs lifted from local bars.

When the dryer had finished its cycle we took Flynn for a walk. The Via Algarvina runs right by the site on the other side of the river. It’s a Grande Rota, running east-west from Alcoutim on the Spanish border to Cabo S. Vincente at the coast. We hadn’t brought water so we only went 8km of a possible 300. The return leg afforded better views of town… to be fair, the same views we had yesterday just in much better light.

Still cloudy but also sunny.
​

After the walk we played a game of General Orders; an oddly neutral WWII Boardgame. Despite the lack of a bad guy, it was fun and not only because I (morally) won.

After defeating the axis of evil we went up into town. We really wanted to eat grilled meat at Churrasqueira Valdemar a local grill and trip advisor favourite but, Sunday. Instead we had a couple of drinks at the worryingly named and guested Cafe Inglês and then set off towards the second reccomendation from the aire attendant: O Pina. The walk over was through the side streets on Silvia’s and the sunset was pretty.

Golden​

Along the lovely golden streets to O Pina. This was the second recommendation of the manager of the aire. What he didn’t tell us about was the Overlook Hotel vibe.

You have always been the pork and clams​

We put the emptiness down to Sunday and soldiered on. It wasn’t a mistake. The aire manager promised “food like grandmother cooked” and it wasn’t a lie - assuming your grandmother is Portuguese. Ours weren’t so to make up, a tiny grandmother and a tiny mother appeared and cooked fried fish for Jane, pork and clams for me. It was very good and heart warming to see three generations working together. Almost as heartwarming as the parting almond liqueur.

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[Jane And Rog]

Him “morally” winning means it was a draw by the way. Also, I drew a stork, trying out my new “oil” paints.

 

[MichaelT]

Him “morally” winning means it was a draw by the way. Also, I drew a stork, trying out my new “oil” paints.

View attachment 964749

Very good

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Great picture

 

[Jane And Rog]

We woke to clear blue skies - hoorah! Before heading off, Rog wanted to check out Silves market for dinner comestibles.

- Man filling in pastel de nata comparison spreadsheet

Sadly the fish and meat mongers weren’t there, but we did manage to buy a scary looking black blood sausage and a tomato (large).

Pictured at lunch

After a repeat of the pastel de nata high standards / analysis paralysis/ dithering, we also returned to buy R’s 3rd PdN of the trip. Rating - 7/10 good pastry, good burnt top, custard a little over-sweet and cornfloury.

Denby fully-serviced, we set off for the coast. Against our better judgement, which did indeed prove to be better than our worse judgement.

We parked in Benagil to walk some of the “percuso dos sete vales suspendos.” This is a lovely cliff-top walk with amazing views of cliffs, beaches, and the sea.

It’s also, did I mention, cliff-top - and Flynn is a dog of very little brain and I am a Jane with a great fear of heights.

Not interdita for Flynn, apparently

Also, the path was rammed with non-walkers, dressed for a nightclub, tottering down the rocks and shrieking when Flynn rushed past them.

Hordes of them, in their sparkly shoes

We stopped for a very refreshing orange juice, partly as an apology as Flynn peed up the side of the man’s cool box - luckily locked tight. He wasn’t fussed at all though, which was kind of him.

Apologetic orange juice

In the end we decided to take the inland route back to Denby. This was much more relaxing and let us “Seek” various interesting plants. This is mastic.

I’m not sure if it’s the same plant which produces mastic on the island of Chios in Greece. The growers cut slits in the trunks of the bushes, which then weep resin, known as the tears of Chios.

But Flynn was not so happy about the removal of the sea bathing option, and opted for a mud bath instead.

“Whalesong with your mud, sir?”

Our next destination was a church with a famous tiled interior (closed because of Monday). Here’s the only exterior tile-work on view.

Our intended stop for the night was an orange grove, but again it was closed, probably for more than just Monday. We ended up
packed like a little orange sardine among great white whales, in the aire in Fuseta. The grumpy bloke on reception was quite the contrast to the friendly chap at Silves, and refused my desire to pay at once (now Denby standard practice after an accident in Morocco).

White whales. Denby off camera.

When it got a little cooler, we walked down to the beach and lagoon, which were lovely. Such a shame that the high-rises are starting to go up on the sea front - this place must have been amazing twenty years ago.

Flynn was very happy indeed with the warm water, and played fetch the sparkly flip-flop with a fellow pointer (short-haired so not quite as mad).

Flip-flop sparkly side down, sadly

After some downtime and surprisingly good showers, we had a sundowner on the beach. My first Portuguese fizzy wine, and very good too. Photo is of Rog and beer.

The sunset was amazing.

Dinner was at a fish restaurant very close to the campsite. Very good indeed - cockle croquettas, prawns, octopus and scabbard fish.

Man eating octopus must do Cthulu impression. It’s the law.

 

[Dutch 68]

We woke to clear blue skies - hoorah! Before heading off, Rog wanted to check out Silves market for dinner comestibles.

View attachment 965176
- Man filling in pastel de nata comparison spreadsheet

Sadly the fish and meat mongers weren’t there, but we did manage to buy a scary looking black blood sausage and a tomato (large).

View attachment 965182
Pictured at lunch

After a repeat of the pastel de nata high standards / analysis paralysis/ dithering, we also returned to buy R’s 3rd PdN of the trip. Rating - 7/10 good pastry, good burnt top, custard a little over-sweet and cornfloury.

Denby fully-serviced, we set off for the coast. Against our better judgement, which did indeed prove to be better than our worse judgement.

We parked in Benagil to walk some of the “percuso dos sete vales suspendos.” This is a lovely cliff-top walk with amazing views of cliffs, beaches, and the sea.

View attachment 965172

It’s also, did I mention, cliff-top - and Flynn is a dog of very little brain and I am a Jane with a great fear of heights.

View attachment 965179
Not interdita for Flynn, apparently

Also, the path was rammed with non-walkers, dressed for a nightclub, tottering down the rocks and shrieking when Flynn rushed past them.

View attachment 965178
Hordes of them, in their sparkly shoes

We stopped for a very refreshing orange juice, partly as an apology as Flynn peed up the side of the man’s cool box - luckily locked tight. He wasn’t fussed at all though, which was kind of him.

View attachment 965174
Apologetic orange juice

In the end we decided to take the inland route back to Denby. This was much more relaxing and let us “Seek” various interesting plants. This is mastic.

View attachment 965180

I’m not sure if it’s the same plant which produces mastic on the island of Chios in Greece. The growers cut slits in the trunks of the bushes, which then weep resin, known as the tears of Chios.

But Flynn was not so happy about the removal of the sea bathing option, and opted for a mud bath instead.

View attachment 965181
“Whalesong with your mud, sir?”

Our next destination was a church with a famous tiled interior (closed because of Monday). Here’s the only exterior tile-work on view.

View attachment 965183


Our intended stop for the night was an orange grove, but again it was closed, probably for more than just Monday. We ended up
packed like a little orange sardine among great white whales, in the aire in Fuseta. The grumpy bloke on reception was quite the contrast to the friendly chap at Silves, and refused my desire to pay at once (now Denby standard practice after an accident in Morocco).


View attachment 965184
White whales. Denby off camera.

When it got a little cooler, we walked down to the beach and lagoon, which were lovely. Such a shame that the high-rises are starting to go up on the sea front - this place must have been amazing twenty years ago.

Flynn was very happy indeed with the warm water, and played fetch the sparkly flip-flop with a fellow pointer (short-haired so not quite as mad).

View attachment 965186
Flip-flop sparkly side down, sadly

After some downtime and surprisingly good showers, we had a sundowner on the beach. My first Portuguese fizzy wine, and very good too. Photo is of Rog and beer.

View attachment 965188

The sunset was amazing.

View attachment 965189

Dinner was at a fish restaurant very close to the campsite. Very good indeed - cockle croquettas, prawns, octopus and scabbard fish.

View attachment 965190

View attachment 965191

View attachment 965192
Man eating octopus must do Cthulu impression. It’s the law.

If you like your pastries , A brasileira in Lisbon is the place to be …….., outrageously good

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