Jane & Rog’s retirement tour, Morocco 2023

[Jane And Rog]

Thanks BnBJwf - we did pass them a few days ago but they too were closed for the January holiday. May be worth a try on the way back.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We’re on!

 

[Jane And Rog]

There’s a very important post on Northernraider ’s thread here. Very good detail on the pet issue from the best source.

Post in thread 'Tam n pups winter trip 2022'
https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/tam-n-pups-winter-trip-2022.270463/post-5407101

It looks as though you need to get the vet’s health certificate no more than 24 hours before you travel, which would rule out the animal health cert from the UK, unless you drive like a lunatic.

 

[Jane And Rog]

I’m going to paste the email from the Algeciras Border Post here too for completeness, as it’s so useful.

TITRE TEST AND MOROCCO

So once and for all, we have the up-to-date information about the titre test when travelling to Morocco then back to Spain . We have been in contact with the port at Algeciras and they have been very helpful.

This applies to titre tests taken within the EU and not in the UK.

We hope that this helps others with their travels, who may be confused with all the contradictory information out there!

We asked about the titre test for our dog -

1. Can you confirm that if the blood sample is taken within the EU, we will be allowed to travel to Morocco and back within three months.

* To come back to the European Union, the animal must be (before leaving the European Union) identified with transponder + EU passport and vaccinated against rabbies.

It is necessary an antibody test for rabbies: the blood sample must be taken in the EU and sent to an approval lab and the result must be written in section VI of the passport by the vet of the animal.

If you follow the steps mentioned above you will not need to wait for 3 months in Morocco.

If the test is taken in Morocco, or outside the EU you have to stay there for three months from the date the blood sample is taken, before returning to Spain.

2. Do we need a health certificate to travel?

Yes. Please note that this health certificate must be issued within 24 hours by a local vet before your arrival in Morocco.

In addition, after getting the health certificate, you must come to our office to get the final export certificate.

3. We may leave Italy for Spain before we get the titre test results. Our vet will send our certificate to our address in Spain. Would you be able to stamp the passport with the results for us please?

Yes, we could do it when you come here to get the final export certificate (after you get the health certificate from the vet here in Spain). The most important thing is to have the certificate with the result of the test above >0.5UI/ml.

You find us on Google Maps searching "Docks PIF Algeciras". When you get there, ask for the "edificio de sanidad animal " (animal heath building) at the Puesto de Control Fronterizo (Border Control Post). We are at the first floor. We open from 08.30 in the morning to 14.30 and 16.00 to 20.00 in the evening.

Miguel Extremera Navas
Inspector de Sanidad Animal
Puesto de Control Fronterizo de Algeciras (PCF)

Muelle Juan Carlos I S/N
11201
Algeciras (Cádiz)

miguel.extremera@correo.gob.es

Hope this helps and saves you time.

 

[Just smiffy]

As much as I’d like a dog I’m glad I haven’t…. Especially as I will be doing Morocco and other countries…

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[Wingingit#1]

Was it a big gold dethleffs in the aire on british plates ?

 

[Gina M]

Just starting watching this thread and I am loving it too. I love your dog !! He looks like my dear departed Stanley who was a big cuddle monster too.

 

[jumartoo]

I'm loving this thread, mostly because you're such a good teller of stories/information. I'll he following because of that and not because I'm interested in motorhoming in Morocco. For some reason I'm just not happy to go there with a motorhome, although we had a wonderful trekking week in the Anti Atlas some years ago, and are still in contact with Mohammed, our guide. We may venture there again someday.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Just a quick note that we are here and set up in a campsite in Asilah. Flynn has had the beach run of his dreams, complete with sun setting over the Atlantic. We only have a SIM for the van MIFI now, and aren’t sure yet how much data we have, so I’ll write more later. Plus we’re both knackered - today was stressful! Thanks for all your kind words, much appreciated.

 

[Four of us]

Please do keep posting. I’m loving these trips as unable to travel atm. X

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[MartynSuz]

Well done to all three of you.....let the fun begin

 

[Revolvor]

........ It’s been a long drive, and although we had wanted to get to Dakhla, perhaps it’s too much, as we have to be back in the UK for my Dad’s 90th celebration on Mar 4th.

I spent a few days in Dakhla in 2005 when my son and I participated in the Plymouth to Banjul banger rally. At that time there were a lot of campers at the start of the peninsula. I'd always hoped to go back in my own MH, but sadly I think the opportunity has passed.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Not sue quite where I left off and this is written on a café WIFI while drinking mint tea.

We knew we’s missed our 10am ferry. But we’d been promised by “Carlos” that the ticket was flexible. We drove round to the ferry terminal and found that it… was! Hoorah. We were on the next ferry leaving at 13:30. Denby parked up behind the only other early bird, a French Land Rover, and we breathed out for the first time in hours.

After a picnic lunch of our local Kentish blue cheese (we do like to try local delicacies) and jamon de Léon, we boarded the ferry at 12:30. It was pretty empty.

Flynn had to come up on deck with us and we were quickly ushered away from the posh seats to the dog cabin, which was a bit scruffier. It did end up being exclusive though as various Moroccans poked their heads in, did a double-take, and left.

There was one more bit of paperwork - individually (as Flynn wasn’t allowed) we queued up to have our passport stamped and our immigration number written on.

The crossing was smooth and quick, and we were disembarking at Tangier Med by 4pm.

Luckily, due to our very early start, Denby and the French Land Rover were first through the extensive immigration process. First we drove onto a ramp, and people and dogs had to evacuate the cars while a massive X-ray machine moved slowly them. We presume checking for bombs and guns, as it didn’t find the 10 bottles of wine we had stashed under Flynn’s seat!

At the end, the customs chap inspected our passports. “Have you been to Morocco before?” he asked?

“No,” I replied, thinking that a week’s package holiday in Marrakesh back in the last century barely counted compared to today’s adventure.

“Ah,” he said with a huge smile. “Welcome, have a good time! You will love it!”

It makes such a massive difference when immigration people are friendly. I think of Mexico warmly after the officer there welcomed us warmly and told us of the best places in town for food and live music. The same is not true of the US (where we were living at the time) when on our return the massively armed officials treated us like criminals.

One last stop to obtain some cash - thank goodness we did as the motorway we took straight out of the port required it. Not many cards accepted in Morocco!

We drive 75km to Asilah - the first town with a half decent campsite, which we felt we needed on our first night. There were two campsites actually, right next to each other, one with good reviews, the other not so much. Without any maps (no phone SIM yet), we managed to choose the worse one, Camping Echrigui). Vans were jammed in together, even the massive lorry-sized A classes, slumming it next to VW campers. Dogs ran free, Flynn got squeaky! Still, we were here.

Flynn got the walk of his life on the fantastic, wide sandy beaches as the sun set over the Atlantic. Unlike home, he was the only dog in sight - well, apart from two street dogs who warned him off their patch in a calm, we-mean-business manner.

A little later we walked into town to buy a Maroc Telecom SIM (not yet working properly) and dinner, at a fish restaurant, which was pretty good. Stewed aubergines as a free starter, then a red mullet, grilled, and fishes, various, fried. Copious amounts of fresh fruit followed (oranges, tangerines and strawberries). Two beers each and the total was 295d - about £23, and this was probably quite a high end place - on the seafront, serving alcohol.

Morocco will be a good place to live on a pension - the savings from our heating bills alone could probably support us!

 

[namwaldog]

Amazon product ASIN B00AROMT1W
Don't know if you've read this book, but we enjoyed it!

We're enjoying following your adventures! Thanks.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Thanks - I started that but must get back to it. I’ve just finished “The Quest for the Holy Quail” which I enjoyed a lot. He’s a little negative about Morocco at times, but writes well - I need to get some of his recommendations into Mundus when I have data. At Maroc Telecom now.

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[Gina M]

Not sue quite where I left off and this is written on a café WIFI while drinking mint tea.

We knew we’s missed our 10am ferry. But we’d been promised by “Carlos” that the ticket was flexible. We drove round to the ferry terminal and found that it… was! Hoorah. We were on the next ferry leaving at 13:30. Denby parked up behind the only other early bird, a French Land Rover, and we breathed out for the first time in hours.

After a picnic lunch of our local Kentish blue cheese (we do like to try local delicacies) and jamon de Léon, we boarded the ferry at 12:30. It was pretty empty.

Flynn had to come up on deck with us and we were quickly ushered away from the posh seats to the dog cabin, which was a bit scruffier. It did end up being exclusive though as various Moroccans poked their heads in, did a double-take, and left.

There was one more bit of paperwork - individually (as Flynn wasn’t allowed) we queued up to have our passport stamped and our immigration number written on.

The crossing was smooth and quick, and we were disembarking at Tangier Med by 4pm.

Luckily, due to our very early start, Denby and the French Land Rover were first through the extensive immigration process. First we drove onto a ramp, and people and dogs had to evacuate the cars while a massive X-ray machine moved slowly them. We presume checking for bombs and guns, as it didn’t find the 10 bottles of wine we had stashed under Flynn’s seat!

At the end, the customs chap inspected our passports. “Have you been to Morocco before?” he asked?

“No,” I replied, thinking that a week’s package holiday in Marrakesh back in the last century barely counted compared to today’s adventure.

“Ah,” he said with a huge smile. “Welcome, have a good time! You will love it!”

It makes such a massive difference when immigration people are friendly. I think of Mexico warmly after the officer there welcomed us warmly and told us of the best places in town for food and live music. The same is not true of the US (where we were living at the time) when on our return the massively armed officials treated us like criminals.

One last stop to obtain some cash - thank goodness we did as the motorway we took straight out of the port required it. Not many cards accepted in Morocco!

We drive 75km to Asilah - the first town with a half decent campsite, which we felt we needed on our first night. There were two campsites actually, right next to each other, one with good reviews, the other not so much. Without any maps (no phone SIM yet), we managed to choose the worse one, Camping Echrigui). Vans were jammed in together, even the massive lorry-sized A classes, slumming it next to VW campers. Dogs ran free, Flynn got squeaky! Still, we were here.

Flynn got the walk of his life on the fantastic, wide sandy beaches as the sun set over the Atlantic. Unlike home, he was the only dog in sight - well, apart from two street dogs who warned him off their patch in a calm, we-mean-business manner.

View attachment 703540


A little later we walked into town to buy a Maroc Telecom SIM (not yet working properly) and dinner, at a fish restaurant, which was pretty good. Stewed aubergines as a free starter, then a red mullet, grilled, and fishes, various, fried. Copious amounts of fresh fruit followed (oranges, tangerines and strawberries). Two beers each and the total was 295d - about £23, and this was probably quite a high end place - on the seafront, serving alcohol.

Morocco will be a good place to live on a pension - the savings from our heating bills alone could probably support us!

What a gorgeous photo, beautiful sunset and Flynn clearing loving it!!! Thanks for that.

 

[paddymcc]

Great thread, thank you so much for posting. I hope we may follow you one day.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Yesterday we spent a second night in Asilah. We were in need of a rest day. First, another walk on the beach.

The weather is almost perfect - 20s during the day but cold over night, which is great for sleeping.

Back at the site we filled up with water and switched to a better corner pitch.

We then did a massive amount of vanwork (like housework but you have to do it EVERY SINGLE DAY SOMETIMES TWICE) before walking into town to sort the mobile data situation. FYI, Maroc Telecom is just down the road the campsite is on, on the opposite side - a massive, modern building that’s impossible to miss. We missed it and walked about a kilometre before giving up and returning through town via an unexpected appointment with a mint tea. The orange trees were in full fruit.

We found MT on the way back and added a shed-load* of data to Rog’s SIM, as it has now become, so I can keep my UK number for my Dad & his care home.
* A tech term, roughly 50Gb.

Then we chilled for a few hours, had lunch and showered. The shower wasn’t the cleanest but it was hot and did the job.

Late in the afternoon, we returned to town to explore the medina. It was photogenic, and almost entirely hustle-free - very restful compared to my memories of Marrakech. Highly recommended for your first medina.

The idea had been to look for fish to bbq ourselves, but when we got to the food market (at famous.mountain.commuting) the fish part was closed up. I suspect it’s a morning thing. There was a whole lot of lovely looking fruit and veg, and fresh-looking meat.

Flynn’s evening walk was ruined by it being Friday night, and every boy in Asilah heading to the beach with a football. I imagine football is very popular in Morocco right now.

Flynn likes to play football, but he can’t seem to understand the “foot” part of that game. He’s not great on the offside rule either, or even the onpitch rule - basically he likes to grab a ball and disappear into the distance with it. So we headed up the river and walked inland.

Dinner that night was not quite what we wanted, as it was a bit early, due to needing to extricate ourselves from a conversation with our friendly American neighbours that was getting slightly repetitive. I said, it was getting slightly repetitive.

The place we fancied trying wasn’t open, so we stopped for a drink in a modern hotel restaurant. The nibbles (more like a lunch) were so good that we stayed for dinner. Mixed, mostly vegetarian dips for starters, and a beef tagine for mains. We had a half bottle of Moroccan red from Meknes which was very good indeed.

 

[Roseandpeter]

Great thread we'll be in morocco soon, so watching with interest.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Yesterday was Rog’s birthday! We saved the celebrations until the afternoon and left the site. It was 140 dirhams - a little over a fiver a night. The worst thing, apart from the sandy / muddy ground, was the owner’s habit of squeezing in any van that arrived. We got back from our meal the night before to find our table & chairs being moved to let an Italian van into our corner pitch.

We took the motorway & drove into thick fog. This wasn’t what it said on the tin!

We stopped at the first services for fuel. Very good value at 14.11 dirhams a litre, about £1.10. Service stations are very good, in fact, better than those in the UK, with clean loos and good food. We bought coffee, slices of pistachio & cherry cake for R’s birthday meal, and a pain au chocolat for his breakfast.

The chap serving asked me if I was French. I was preening a bit, so Rog pointed out that he was Moroccan. I still think he was educated at the Sorbonne and could spot a decent accent when he heard one!

We stopped off at Moulay Bousselham for a dog walk. It’s a scenic location, with a big lagoon famous for its birds set behind dunes and Atlantic beaches.

I bought bread for lunch from a lovely little boy who not only charged me local prices but gave me back my extra coins when I gave him the wrong ones, plus some extra change. I think the loaf cost about 10p.

Rog’s birthday lunch was the truffle-stuffed camembert from earlier, and some jamon Ibérico from Spain.

We stopped for the night at Camping International Mehdya, for about £11. This is a much more manicured site, with individual pitches and a swimming pool that looked really inviting. Not really an ideal stop but we didn’t want a lot of driving on R’s birthday.

The birthday boy started off by trying our gift from Carlos, who obviously has us down as real wine buffs.

It’s melon flavoured! I expected it to be a disgusting joke, but it was actually a lot better than it looks and I ended up having to drink more of it rather than throw it away! The birthday boy was allowed some beer from home.

He opened his presents - the Imposter Kings game and a DJI Osmo mobile.

After Rog had played with his toy a bit, we went for an evening walk with Flynn to explore the area. Not really our kind of place - a bit too much fun fair and neon.

We didn’t fancy returning to any of the restaurants, so I made a garlic, chilli and anchovy linguini and we scoffed the pistachio cakes afterwards. Rog is promised a proper birthday meal later, when he sees a restaurant he likes.

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[Mikey RV]

Happy birthday Rog.

 

[Wingingit#1]

Yeah happy birthday Rog

 

[PxJ]

Have a good one Rog. Enjoying your thread really informative

 

[3DOM]

Happy birthday Rog

 

[Riverbankannie]

Rog,

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[MartynSuz]

Great way to celebrate your birthday cruising south in Morocco, happy birthday

 

[Jo662]

Happy Belated birthday Rog

 

[Jane And Rog]

Yesterday ended up being a long, stressful driving day. We started off with a beach walk, but a massive pack of street dogs (about 10) surrounded Flynn. He was very good - not aggressive nor frightened, but they weren’t giving up, so I ran in shouting and clapping my hands, and thankfully they saw sense and moved away. We curtailed our walk.

Our first stop was Chellah, which was our first mistake. The drive into the outskirts of Rabat (or rather Salé) wasn’t too bad, and we spotted a Carrefour (snore.stitch.eyelid), which was great as not only were we out of lunch supplies, but also beer. We couldn’t find the latter anywhere, so I asked, to be told we had to exit the supermarket and go in a door on the right. This was that door - through a cage, marked only with a single word in Arabic!

We’ve messed up a bit with our smuggling. Well, it was our first time. It turns out that Carrefour sells plenty of red wine (including our favourite from the restaurant on the 6th) but no sparkling wine, or cider (my tipples of choice). Some of the red wine was a very good price, too. There was beer, so Rog stocked up. Spirits also available, though I didn’t check the price.

Chellah is an ancient necropolis and fortified site, with some Roman ruins. It’s also closed for two years. The grounds were lovely though, and the guardian was letting people park and walk round the grounds. We sat outside and ate a salad with some crusty wholemeal baguette from Carrefour, before taking Flynn on a tour of the castle. It looks amazing.

A Moroccan man stopped us and asked if Flynn was a Drahthaar! Which he is, as it’s the proper German name for the breed. Turns out he was a gundog fan, and couldn’t quite tell if Flynn was a German Wirehaired pointer or a Griffon. Not what I expected in a Muslim country!

At the back of the castle, there were many storks nesting. They set up a weird alarm rattle of their beaks when they saw us.

We also saw the massive Mohammed VI tower. It’s 250m tall and will be a mixed office, hotel and residential building. It’s the tallest building in Africa, and supposed to be visible from 50km in any direction.

Then came a very long drive to Oualidia. Totally my fault, as I somehow messed up the driving time, but our Garmin sat nav didn’t help by routing us along the coast road south of El Jadida, rather than staying on the motorway, through some totally missable industrial blight (petrol industry and minerals?).

Rog was exhausted when we finally got to Laguna Park Camping (toiling.credentials.received). I booked us in for two nights, again about £11 a night if I recall correctly.

We set up camp, and when a man on a motorbike came and offered to bring us a chicken tagine that night we just said, yes please. It was 120 dirhams - just less than a tenner, but at that point we didn’t care.

Next came a short dog walk down the rocky outcrop onto the fields, accompanied by the very sweet camp puppy.

The tagine arrived on time and was very good, and so large that it fed us and Flynn with some over! However, the mosquitoes weren’t so good. Tomorrow we will bung some deet on…

 

[Jane And Rog]

Thanks for the birthday wishes everyone. Apple and Maroc telecom seem to have got together and decided only one of us can access the internet at a time so I only saw these today.
R

 

[Jane And Rog]

Forgot to say that yesterday’s motorway tolls totalled 112 dirhams or about £9. I’d definitely recommend taking the motorway unless you’re very cost-sensitive or not travelling far. They aren’t busy, the road surface is great and the services are European standard, with toilets, coffee & food and picnic areas.

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