Jane & Rog’s Eastwards Coddiwomple
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Jane And Rog
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Why the ankle score? Exponential recovery?Why pi (or even pie) for your score? Was that to help you find the distance from the drone when was circling. If so, it was too high
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Jane And Rog
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Coddiwompling day 40: Tallinnnn
The rain carried on all night to the morning. There was a brief respite for me to take Flynn down the beach but I got wet on the way back.
It’s also got a little colder so… ideal for a city visit and we happen to be right next to Tallinn. It’s almost like we planned it but we didn’t - top codiwompling then.
We parked up just outside the old city walls but very much in the centre of Tallinn. It’s a car park but all I can see out of the windows as I type is green and the loudest noise is from birds and the wind in the trees.
We left Flynn guarding the van and went up into town for lunch.
Then some touristing. Two tickets for the town hall and a single to go up the tower.
Ashford Tallinnn town hall.The town hall is the last surviving gothic town hall in Northern Europe (a somewhat qualified achievement) but still, it was first mentioned in 1322 and some of the 1370 building survives. It was still in use by the local government until the 70s but now it’s a museum. It’s been very well renovated a good mix of unadorned original and reconstruction to the C15 period.
The tower was good exercise but didn’t really afford the views I was hoping for. Whilst I was being disappointed with the view and walking Flynn Jane did some real touristing and bought an amber bracelet.
In the evening we set out nice and early. We stopped at Mikeller, a beer and natural wine bar where the nice lady lectured Jane about natural wine and I picked up some very specific instructions about breweries in Sweden.
We did a bit of tourist shopping, then we tried to find a restaurant. We have another problem here, related to our aversion to tourist traps. Let’s call it FOMO. We walked to the first choice: maybe not the best menu. Then the second: does not exist anymore. OK, we’ll try that Thai that Michelin recommended: full, come back in two hours. We regrouped at Mikeller for more refreshment before deciding that Rataskeuvau 16 was the only choice for dinner. Luckily they had a table - on the terrace, risking rain. The food was great, the service slow. So slow that I got a return bout of acid reflux. It’s something I’ve suffered from all my life but has been getting much less frequent - unless I wait too long to eat. Jane tells me the Eel to start and braised moose for main was great.
Codiwomple rating:
Ankle report:
The rain carried on all night to the morning. There was a brief respite for me to take Flynn down the beach but I got wet on the way back.
Down the beach from the campsite
It’s also got a little colder so… ideal for a city visit and we happen to be right next to Tallinn. It’s almost like we planned it but we didn’t - top codiwompling then.
We parked up just outside the old city walls but very much in the centre of Tallinn. It’s a car park but all I can see out of the windows as I type is green and the loudest noise is from birds and the wind in the trees.
Dr Who is also visiting Talinnnn.
We left Flynn guarding the van and went up into town for lunch.
Our commute.
We both have an aversion to any sort of tourist trap and, Tallinn being a smallish (400,000 souls) city on the cruise liner itinerary, it is full of tourists and traps for them. We started out avoiding any restaurant with an aggressive greeter but there weren’t any. So we screwed down our tourist hats and sat down at Olde Hansa which, with its meddie eyvil costumes and spiced wine is about as touristy as they come. The menu actually looked pretty good but we almost fell off our chairs when we saw the prices: €15 for a glass of wine. We scarpered and moved onto somewhere not quite so central - it was good. Soup and herrings since you ask.Chunky soup please.
Then some touristing. Two tickets for the town hall and a single to go up the tower.
Many more photos available on request.
The tower was good exercise but didn’t really afford the views I was hoping for. Whilst I was being disappointed with the view and walking Flynn Jane did some real touristing and bought an amber bracelet.
A view earlier today.
In the evening we set out nice and early. We stopped at Mikeller, a beer and natural wine bar where the nice lady lectured Jane about natural wine and I picked up some very specific instructions about breweries in Sweden.
Less talking, more pouring pleeez.
We did a bit of tourist shopping, then we tried to find a restaurant. We have another problem here, related to our aversion to tourist traps. Let’s call it FOMO. We walked to the first choice: maybe not the best menu. Then the second: does not exist anymore. OK, we’ll try that Thai that Michelin recommended: full, come back in two hours. We regrouped at Mikeller for more refreshment before deciding that Rataskeuvau 16 was the only choice for dinner. Luckily they had a table - on the terrace, risking rain. The food was great, the service slow. So slow that I got a return bout of acid reflux. It’s something I’ve suffered from all my life but has been getting much less frequent - unless I wait too long to eat. Jane tells me the Eel to start and braised moose for main was great.
Eel, eel, eel up in side you.
Oh, during that tourist shopping I did get a rather fine new hat though so disaster from the jaws etc.
A rather fetching mint walnut whip.
Codiwomple rating:
Ankle report:
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Jane And Rog
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We slept well in the €10 car park close to the centre of Tallinn. It was sunny, so we walked round the old town for a while taking photos and have a coffee / breakfast.
Our next destination was Padise Monastery, where a very friendly ticket seller told us dogs were welcome, and that she’d even admitted a woman with a parrot once. “Any animals are fine!” she claimed, so I’m already planning my next visit with a pride of lions.
Padise is the ruin of a Cistercian monastery, first settled in about 1310. It survived the reformation, but was occupied by Gotthard Kettler in the Livonian war, 1558. Herr Kettler threw the monks out and converted the monastery into a fortress.
In 1622 the King of Sweden gave the monastery to Thomas Ramm, whose family remained until possession until the days of communism. When in 1766 it was struck by lightning and burnt down, the Ramms used the stone to build a manor house nearby, and the abbey has remained in ruins ever since.
You can wander pretty much anywhere in the ruins, and work out where things were with some helpful bilingual information boards.
Next stop the seaside, to give Flynn a walk and a swim. The Baltic coast really is beautiful.
We grabbed a very late burger for lunch, as there isn’t much in the way of restaurants near Paldiski port, and now we’re waiting around near the ferry terminal with a cuppa. Our sailing to Sweden is at 22:00 tonight.
Town hall
Narrow cobbled streets
Our next destination was Padise Monastery, where a very friendly ticket seller told us dogs were welcome, and that she’d even admitted a woman with a parrot once. “Any animals are fine!” she claimed, so I’m already planning my next visit with a pride of lions.
Padise is the ruin of a Cistercian monastery, first settled in about 1310. It survived the reformation, but was occupied by Gotthard Kettler in the Livonian war, 1558. Herr Kettler threw the monks out and converted the monastery into a fortress.
In 1622 the King of Sweden gave the monastery to Thomas Ramm, whose family remained until possession until the days of communism. When in 1766 it was struck by lightning and burnt down, the Ramms used the stone to build a manor house nearby, and the abbey has remained in ruins ever since.
Church
You can wander pretty much anywhere in the ruins, and work out where things were with some helpful bilingual information boards.
Next stop the seaside, to give Flynn a walk and a swim. The Baltic coast really is beautiful.
We grabbed a very late burger for lunch, as there isn’t much in the way of restaurants near Paldiski port, and now we’re waiting around near the ferry terminal with a cuppa. Our sailing to Sweden is at 22:00 tonight.
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Jane And Rog
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Map for the last couple of days.
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Jane And Rog
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Coddiwompling day 42: Jag skulle vilja köpa en deodorant tack
We were first (non-hgv) in the queue for the ferry but amongst the last to board MV Sirena Seaways. Big ferries are annoying. It always feels like it’s the first time they’ve ever done boarding and there’s massive confusion and inefficiency.
Everyone tells us the entry to Stockholm by ferry is beautiful. Today it was foggy. And we landed at Kapellskar north of Stockholm. I have actually travelled to Stockholm via ferry but I was on a Nokia pleasure junket from Helsinki and too hungover to poke my nose outside.
Hopefully we’ll have a third run at it in the next few years.
We’ve decided to go fairly quickly through this first part of Sweden. We were awake early on a Sunday so easy driving. Also the summer holidays have started so, Sweden (and I admit probably the rest of Europe) are getting busy. We fully expect to come back to Sweden so no worries about missing the best runestone.
Speaking of runestones, we did see one today but first, the Bergs Slussar on the Göta canal. The Bergs Slussar are a staircase of seven locks taking boats from Roxen lake and Berg's guest harbour. It might not be as long as some staircases in the UK but the locks are the size of Thames locks. There were none of the big hotel boats going up whilst we were there just a half load of day boats and gin palaces.
Then the runestone. Rok runestone is considered to be the oldest example of Swedish literature. More relevant it was used as part of the cover art for Black Sabbath’s very disappointing 1990 album “TYR“.
TheTYR Rok runestone has a very extensive Wikipedia page if you are interested in such things. The church it’s next too was quite a (plain) revelation after the baroque/caltholic/orthodox bling of the Baltic states.
Two tourist tick boxes complete, we drove on to Eskjö Camping. It’s a big place with a very inefficient check in system. The pitches are big and shady and everything works but it’s just a bit too big and rules based for us. As a guide, if there’s a prepaid card system for the showers, we’re not happy.
One thing we’d not counted on is that Sweden is not the voulez-vous singing disco wonderland ABBA promised. At least not on Sunday evening. The town was shut up like a post apocalypse film set. For dinner we had a choice of sushi or pizza. We chose the latter and it was pretty good although demand obviously outstrips availability on Sunday night, we had to eat on the street rather than on the terrace. Still, it’s warm and there was no traffic.
Codiwomple rating: minus one
Ankle report: some complaints this morning. Obviously the sea air did not help.
We were first (non-hgv) in the queue for the ferry but amongst the last to board MV Sirena Seaways. Big ferries are annoying. It always feels like it’s the first time they’ve ever done boarding and there’s massive confusion and inefficiency.
First!
Whatever, we got on, shuttled Flynn to our dog friendly cabin and settled in for the night. I really like ferries (and sleeper trains) I’d be really happy with a self driving denby that could shuttle us to a new site whilst we slept. I don’t think ferries count as codiwompling though.Obviously this is an AI generated fake and did not happen.
Everyone tells us the entry to Stockholm by ferry is beautiful. Today it was foggy. And we landed at Kapellskar north of Stockholm. I have actually travelled to Stockholm via ferry but I was on a Nokia pleasure junket from Helsinki and too hungover to poke my nose outside.
Not Stockholm earlier today.
Hopefully we’ll have a third run at it in the next few years.
We’ve decided to go fairly quickly through this first part of Sweden. We were awake early on a Sunday so easy driving. Also the summer holidays have started so, Sweden (and I admit probably the rest of Europe) are getting busy. We fully expect to come back to Sweden so no worries about missing the best runestone.
Speaking of runestones, we did see one today but first, the Bergs Slussar on the Göta canal. The Bergs Slussar are a staircase of seven locks taking boats from Roxen lake and Berg's guest harbour. It might not be as long as some staircases in the UK but the locks are the size of Thames locks. There were none of the big hotel boats going up whilst we were there just a half load of day boats and gin palaces.
Woosh.
Then the runestone. Rok runestone is considered to be the oldest example of Swedish literature. More relevant it was used as part of the cover art for Black Sabbath’s very disappointing 1990 album “TYR“.
Rough translation: “Finished with my woman ‘cause she couldn’t help me with my mind”
The
Jesus and the three best apostles, both Marys and one wise man/king. Probably.
Two tourist tick boxes complete, we drove on to Eskjö Camping. It’s a big place with a very inefficient check in system. The pitches are big and shady and everything works but it’s just a bit too big and rules based for us. As a guide, if there’s a prepaid card system for the showers, we’re not happy.
Spacious but hemmed in at the same time.
One thing we’d not counted on is that Sweden is not the voulez-vous singing disco wonderland ABBA promised. At least not on Sunday evening. The town was shut up like a post apocalypse film set. For dinner we had a choice of sushi or pizza. We chose the latter and it was pretty good although demand obviously outstrips availability on Sunday night, we had to eat on the street rather than on the terrace. Still, it’s warm and there was no traffic.
Codiwomple rating: minus one
Ankle report: some complaints this morning. Obviously the sea air did not help.
Last edited:
cliffanger
LIFE MEMBER
I like the AI generated cabin photo!
This has been a truly remarkable trip for all of us - but I don’t think I could manage the diverse restaurant food choices
This has been a truly remarkable trip for all of us - but I don’t think I could manage the diverse restaurant food choices
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
I realise I didn’t add any photos of Eskjö. We didn’t take many but for completeness:
Flynn got a swim in the town’s lake.
Town centre
Flynn got a swim in the town’s lake.
It’s a lovely town just don’t come Sunday - Wednesday.
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Jane And Rog
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I
We also seem to have been stymied by the weather this trip - every timd we want to cook it pisses down with rain. Should have done it last night but I didn’t sleep much on the boat and we had a 5am start so cooking was the last thing on my mind!
I’m longing for some fish or lamb and lots of veg. The last two travel days have been very beige.I like the AI generated cabin photo!
This has been a truly remarkable trip for all of us - but I don’t think I could manage the diverse restaurant food choices
We also seem to have been stymied by the weather this trip - every timd we want to cook it pisses down with rain. Should have done it last night but I didn’t sleep much on the boat and we had a 5am start so cooking was the last thing on my mind!
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Jane And Rog
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Yesterday’s map. Quite some travel day!
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Jane And Rog
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As it’s appropriate, you need to assemble the next paragraph yourself from the following package:
The Dënby bløg
Contains: 40 small nuts, 39 small bolts, 1 small piece of plastic which you thrown away but turns out to be vital and a bag of words containing the following: (museum We stop from was south our Eksjö drove the and first Ikea).
Yes, we looked round the Ikea museum in Älmhult.
Ingvar Kamprad, the founder of Ikea, died only fairly recently in 2018 at the age of 91. He was only 17 when he started the business! The strange Ikea names for their products are down to Ingvar - they’re all the names of real places or things, rather than being invented. This is because Ingvar was dyslexic and thought he would make life easier for himself. For example, the bathroom stuff is named after Sweden’s rivers and lakes.
The museum was rather lacking in depth, so I wouldn’t drive miles out of the way to see it.
There is a massive Ikea store nearby though, if you can cope with one. Rog rarely can.
The best part was the Annie Leibovitz photo collaboration.
The weather was grey first thing and then rained all day, absolutely bucketing it down in the afternoon. It put paid to plans of cooking, again, so we’ve stopped in a car park in Malmö for the night. We’ve absolutely charged through Sweden, but we’re happy with that as we definitely want to return and explore properly - although not in high season.
In Malmö, the Curse of Monday struck again. Both the restaurants we had planned in Mundus were closed. Neither of us fancied a posh nosh. So we ended up at the local Thai, which was very good, and I ensured delivered me plenty of veg.
I think this holiday’s tendency to be pork-heavy and veg-free has made me certain that I will take our salad thingies next time. They’re tupperware technology, with a bowl for dry salad leaves, and two other sealed parts for dressing and protein. Would be great to prepare in the morning ready for lunch on the road.
I’m aware we’re just heading home now, so are people still interested in this thread? There’s always the blog as an option. We’re also nearly out of data, but Rog is chatting to a man at EE about that.
Coddiwompling score: Rain stopped play.
Ankle score: Leg before wicket.
The Dënby bløg
Contains: 40 small nuts, 39 small bolts, 1 small piece of plastic which you thrown away but turns out to be vital and a bag of words containing the following: (museum We stop from was south our Eksjö drove the and first Ikea).
Yes, we looked round the Ikea museum in Älmhult.
A room full of törrflaps, blonhåvens and dikwadds.
Ingvar Kamprad, the founder of Ikea, died only fairly recently in 2018 at the age of 91. He was only 17 when he started the business! The strange Ikea names for their products are down to Ingvar - they’re all the names of real places or things, rather than being invented. This is because Ingvar was dyslexic and thought he would make life easier for himself. For example, the bathroom stuff is named after Sweden’s rivers and lakes.
The museum was rather lacking in depth, so I wouldn’t drive miles out of the way to see it.
20% of people have very boring lives, it seems.
There is a massive Ikea store nearby though, if you can cope with one. Rog rarely can.
The best part was the Annie Leibovitz photo collaboration.
The weather was grey first thing and then rained all day, absolutely bucketing it down in the afternoon. It put paid to plans of cooking, again, so we’ve stopped in a car park in Malmö for the night. We’ve absolutely charged through Sweden, but we’re happy with that as we definitely want to return and explore properly - although not in high season.
In Malmö, the Curse of Monday struck again. Both the restaurants we had planned in Mundus were closed. Neither of us fancied a posh nosh. So we ended up at the local Thai, which was very good, and I ensured delivered me plenty of veg.
I think this holiday’s tendency to be pork-heavy and veg-free has made me certain that I will take our salad thingies next time. They’re tupperware technology, with a bowl for dry salad leaves, and two other sealed parts for dressing and protein. Would be great to prepare in the morning ready for lunch on the road.
I’m aware we’re just heading home now, so are people still interested in this thread? There’s always the blog as an option. We’re also nearly out of data, but Rog is chatting to a man at EE about that.
Coddiwompling score: Rain stopped play.
Ankle score: Leg before wicket.
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Today’s map.
Grianan
LIFE MEMBER
Don’t stop!! I might go back to the blog later but still enjoying the thread …
cliffanger
LIFE MEMBER
I’d like to see you safely home if your data allowance allows!
I’d heard that all the nice items in IKEA are Swedish names, but all the toilet related items are Danish - I could be wrong!
I’d heard that all the nice items in IKEA are Swedish names, but all the toilet related items are Danish - I could be wrong!
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Thank you! That’s brilliant if true. Goes off to google…I’d like to see you safely home if your data allowance allows!
I’d heard that all the nice items in IKEA are Swedish names, but all the toilet related items are Danish - I could be wrong!
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Jane And Rog
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Sadly it looks as though it’s rugs that are Danish. Apparently a put-down, but not that bad if they name a toilet brush after a lovely Swedish lake.
BOLMEN may be the name of IKEA’s classic toilet brush, but the Swedish retailer has borrowed the name from the beautiful lake Bolmen in Småland in southern Sweden – and it is much nicer than the brush.
“We appreciate that IKEA has named a product our beautiful lake and that Visit Sweden is paying attention to this globally. But now we want to show the world that Bolmen is so much more than an object that you clean your toilet with. It is an incredibly beautiful place, “We want to invite the whole world to spend time in our wonderful, unspoiled nature, show the same care as we do and enjoy the crystal clear water,” says Magnus Gunnarsson, chairman of Smålands Sjörike and councilor in Ljungby.
BOLMEN may be the name of IKEA’s classic toilet brush, but the Swedish retailer has borrowed the name from the beautiful lake Bolmen in Småland in southern Sweden – and it is much nicer than the brush.
“We appreciate that IKEA has named a product our beautiful lake and that Visit Sweden is paying attention to this globally. But now we want to show the world that Bolmen is so much more than an object that you clean your toilet with. It is an incredibly beautiful place, “We want to invite the whole world to spend time in our wonderful, unspoiled nature, show the same care as we do and enjoy the crystal clear water,” says Magnus Gunnarsson, chairman of Smålands Sjörike and councilor in Ljungby.
- Sep 7, 2017
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Please keep going if EE allow it. We plan to do Scandinavia next year so the journey home would be interesting. Also you both write so well it’s fun to read.
Langtoftlad
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Definitely - much as I try, I cannot get along with the 'blog' format.
Mikey RV
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Loving the thread. Keep going. 
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scousebird
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Yes, I've loved reading about your travels.
dryad
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- Apr 25, 2010
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- quite a few years now, and loving every minute..
have laughed until my sides hurt at some of your descriptions and writings, absolutely love the way you transport me through words to where you are, what you're doing and what you are scoffing..
keep it up please, and where and when is your next adventure for us stuck at homes to enjoy?
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keep it up please, and where and when is your next adventure for us stuck at homes to enjoy?
.
Yes, please
Mr porky
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Great travel thread. Thank you.
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- Jun 30, 2022
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Def keep going!!… love your style of writing! … so fluid and entertaining 
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Jane And Rog
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Thank you. Far more praise than we deserve.
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Jane And Rog
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Speak for yourself. I need more praise
- Sep 7, 2017
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Now we have to work who the needy one is
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