France again. Autumn 2024 (7 Viewers)

[Ingwe]

For a change, we decided on Newhaven to Dieppe rather than Hull to Rotterdam or the Tunnel. Last did this in a car in 1990s. The journey down was no worse than the drive to the Tunnel and we were able to park for the night right at the terminal for our 9:30 am sailing on Wednesday. There is supposed to be a £5 charge but we could no one who seemed interested in collecting this. So thank you Newhaven.

As it was a daylight sailing and only five hours, we didn’t bother with a cabin. Found comfortable seats with a table and a view. The view didn’t disappoint as we departed with the Seven Sisters and Beachy Head bathed in sun. A very evocative (for me) image.

The food on the ferry was ok and reasonably priced and we were almost the first off the ferry when we reached Dieppe. Usual uninterested French police stamped our passports and, as it was 3pm, we drove only a couple of hours to a site we’ve booked at Moyaux, Calvados country.

It was warm and we spent a pleasant evening. Rain was forecast and on cue, it started in the small hours and is set to rain pretty much until Saturday! This is the view from my bed this morning.

The forecast for the next couple of weeks here and in Brittany are poor so we are looking to change plans to explore Brittany and head south. Initial thoughts are to head towards Tours, Limoges then Argelés or thereabouts. But plans may change and evolve. This is part of the fun of this hobby.

 

[scousebird]

Have a lovely trip.

 

[MichaelT]

Enjoy

 

[Just smiffy]

 

[Ingwe]

What a difference a day makes! Rained all yesterday but this morning, when I went for my run at 07:20, it was dry, the sun was just rising and there was mist all over the fields. There was a strong smell of apples and all the small farms on my route into (and out of) Moyaux were selling calvados. Will definitely buy a bottle as we’re not sure we’ve ever tasted it.

Then it was sunny and warm and everyone was hanging out their damp clothes from yesterday. Had a swim in the pool and this evening, we had a delicious pizza and a plate of tapenade with fresh bread all washed down with a lovely rosé.

Tomorrow we move onto Chateau Valliere on the Loire- a place that is close to our hearts being one of the first places we ever camped since coming to France in 1989.
We’re making our way slowly down to Marseillan Plage aiming to arrive there on the 12th.

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[DBK]

The weather is fickle, we are a little west of Nantes and had a lovely sunny afternoon today but tomorrow looks showery and Sunday very wet. The problem is the forecast keeps changing! The forecast for Avignon is now sunny after this weekend for the next two weeks but yesterday it was forecasting rain for two weeks. Where we are now was supposed to be very wet for the next two weeks but now it says things will improve after mid-week.

I think we'll just keep drifting south, but not quickly.

 

[lorger]

Enjoy

 

[Grasmere9]

What a difference a day makes! Rained all yesterday but this morning, when I went for my run at 07:20, it was dry, the sun was just rising and there was mist all over the fields. There was a strong smell of apples and all the small farms on my route into (and out of) Moyaux were selling calvados. Will definitely buy a bottle as we’re not sure we’ve ever tasted it.

Then it was sunny and warm and everyone was hanging out their damp clothes from yesterday. Had a swim in the pool and this evening, we had a delicious pizza and a plate of tapenade with fresh bread all washed down with a lovely rosé.

Tomorrow we move onto Chateau Valliere on the Loire- a place that is close to our hearts being one of the first places we ever camped since coming to France in 1989.
We’re making our way slowly down to Marseillan Plage aiming to arrive there on the 12th. View attachment 945508View attachment 945509 View attachment 945510

What a lovely looking spot... what is it called please?

 

[Ingwe]

What a lovely looking spot... what is it called please?

It’s the Huttopia site at Moyaux.

Camping Huttopia Calvados - Normandie ****
332 Chemin du Val Séry, 14590, Moyaux​

Camping Huttopia Calvados - Vacances en Normandie | Huttopia

Au coeur du Calvados, entre Pont-l’Evêque et Lisieux, vivez un séjour au vert au coeur du verger. L'esprit est bucolique et typiquement normand.

europe.huttopia.com

 

[Ingwe]

The weather is fickle, we are a little west of Nantes and had a lovely sunny afternoon today but tomorrow looks showery and Sunday very wet. The problem is the forecast keeps changing! The forecast for Avignon is now sunny after this weekend for the next two weeks but yesterday it was forecasting rain for two weeks. Where we are now was supposed to be very wet for the next two weeks but now it says things will improve after mid-week.

I think we'll just keep drifting south, but not quickly.

Yes, we know what you mean about forecasts! Mrs Ingwe swears by the BBC weather forecast, whereas I use a weather app that uses local resources, here Meteo France. Today was supposed to be showery but it’s been dry and sunny all day. Tonight feels quite balmy.

Both our forecasts suggest that it will be sunny at Marseillan Plage by 14th September, so we’re heading south, like you slowly.
Safe travels.

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[Wanders from Glos]

Have a great trip, and you must get some Calvados. It’s worth paying for a good bottle the difference is very noticeable.

By the way, I’m not 100% sure but I think the Met Office lost the BBC weather contract and more it’s done by Meteo France.

 

[Lenny HB]

Have a good trip.

 

[Lenny HB]

By the way, I’m not 100% sure but I think the Met Office lost the BBC weather contract

It was only a threat they still do it. Met Office is OK for UK but not much cop anywhere else.

 

[CAB96]

It was only a threat they still do it. Met Office is OK for UK but not much cop anywhere else.

BBC site says in association with Meteogroup?

I know there was a big fuss about it. The BBC forecast always differs slightly from the Met forecast.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

BBC site says in association with Meteogroup?

I know there was a big fuss about it. The BBC forecast always differs slightly from the Met forecast.

Mind you it always seems to be slightly different from Meto France too

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[CAB96]

Mind you it always seems to be slightly different from Meto France too

Well, by the time they have translated it from French it will have changed

 

[Ingwe]

Had a very pleasant drive to Chateau Le Valliere (near Tours) down mostly the empty A28. It is a Saturday but even so, traffic was very light. A thunderstorm was forecast for later today and as we parked up at the campsite, seemingly its only motorhome, the sky darkened to almost dusk-brightness and the heavens opened up. There were a few claps of thunder and we were pleased to have set up before le deluge. How hard it rained is apparent from the little video.

We had stayed here, in a little tent, 24 years ago and, while the toilets, wash-hand basins and showers are all new, the block within which they are sited, is the original. The young receptionist said we could park anywhere and as I say, I think that apart from one chalet being occupied, we are the sole occupants. Rather nice to wallow in nostalgia, listening to the rain pattering down, enjoying a cuppa and a biscuit.

 

[Ingwe]

After a truly peaceful night, we awoke refreshed to blue skies and sun. It was a little chilly and the van wasn’t parked in the sun. The showers, beautifully clean and all available to us as their only potential users, only boasted barely luke warm water, which was a slight disappointment given the other good features of the relatively cheap site (€16.10).

We were given cheery wave from the young receptionist whose Sunday must seem to last an eternity if no punters are arriving! First officer Mrs Ingwe, had picked a free park-up 150 miles away at La Chatre. After a very pleasant almost solitary drive there on the D943 we arrived at the parking at La Chatre only to find a funfair in full, noisy action and the sole space available did not appeal with the haphazardly parked, poorly kept cars in the motorhome spaces. The noise alone would have had us move on but neither of us felt good about stopping so adopted plan B. This was an 18 mile drive to Bonnat, to a free parking site with fresh water, grey waste and allegedly black waste available. There was a grill over what I believe was the only possible black waste receptacle and no way of lifting the grill soI’m not convinced it has black waste. Anyway, we have plenty of space in the cassette until we arrive at tomorrow’s site.

There is a brocante taking place in the small picturesque town centre only 100 yards walk from the parking. This included marching drummers and a number of floats. And there was an unexpected bonus of finding an open artisan boulangerie on a Sunday with a full range of excellent breads and pastries, both sweet and savoury. So of course we bought both a pain and a couple of savoury pasties for a salad supper this evening. Drinks are a Brewdog Black Heart for me and a kir for Mrs Ingwe.

Bonnat parking

Bonnat procession

Salad supper

Tomorrow, we are heading for Souillac, to a cheap, but interesting-looking campsite. Today’s experience should allay any French travel newbies’ anxieties over the need to book spaces. You can, of course, book spaces especially if you intend staying in one spot for several days. But if like us, you’re travelling a long way and simply need overnighters, you can almost always find somewhere free and safe to spend the night and enjoy, unexpectedly, the delights of French village life.

 

[Ingwe]

Drove about 155 miles to Souillac which was uneventful. We’d booked a night at Flowers Camping in Souillac. It’s webpage promised a bar/restaurant along with a heated pool but on check-in discovered that the bar/restaurant was closed, exceptionally, that night. Not really that surprised given the number of times we’ve found that restaurants and bars at campsites, claimed to be open, are in fact closed.

There had clearly been a lot of rain recently as there were lots of puddles on the road and all pitches were slightly damp and muddy, despite the grass. Still, we spent a peaceful night and this morning, emptied the cassette, topped up to 60% with fresh water (as we are spending the night on a freebie at Puylaurens).

Camping Ondines, Souillac

Again, an uneventful drive to Puylaurens down the A20, D168 etc save for the final mile or so. The sat nav which has the van’s dimensions, directed us down a road wholly unsuitable for a motorhome. Luckily, Mrs Ingwe never relies solely on satnav and, along with a paper map and Google maps, found a suitable route to the free parking. This was surprisingly full but we got a space and set off to explore the delights of Puylaurens.

Satnav suggested road to parking

It definitely feels like the south of France now and the architecture has changed to that more often found in Spain. The town was delightful with narrow, twisting streets and medieval buildings. There was a school called Jean d’ Arc but we doubt the Maid of Orleans actually attended.

Puylaurens

We stopped to refresh ourselves with a Perrier menthe at a small café before returning to the van. Tonight we’re looking forward to a rather yummy homemade lasagne bought from a traiteur. Tomorrow we have another stage of about the same distance as today, aiming to spend the night at an interesting looking site, Moulin de L’Espagnac, Vias near Beziers. Then we we should only be about an hour away from Marseillan plage where we stay for 10 nights. We have enjoyed our multi-stop trip south, in search of the sun even though our initial plans were to further explore Brittany.

 

[Ingwe]

After a good night’s sleep we drove 150 odd miles down the A61, A9 to Moulin de Espagnac, right next door to Beziers Airport. This is a bit of a strange site-a cross between an aire and campsite. ECU is available, though we opted for the €13 per night pitch without electricity. Although there is a lovely but small pool, there is no black waste dump, only one toilet (without door lock) and two showers near the pool.

Le Moulin de Espagnac

Grey waste disposal is available at all pitches (I think) and there may be potable water too. There’s a tap near each pitch but I’m unsure whether the water is drinkable. Further enquiries needed.

The host, while not unpleasant, is not especially welcoming and is not forthcoming about much. Only payment by cash is available. Something that never endears me to a place. The site is guarded by huge iron gates and you use an intercom to announce your arrival. This was ignored for five minutes or so and we were just about to telephone when the gates started to open.

There are enticing notice boards promising grills, pizzas and other food, drinks etc but so far, nothing is open. There are lots of vans here including some behemoths whose fun site is probably called CouncilblockofflatsFun.com

This pitches are sizeable on what looks like volcanic ash. We may get a neighbour soon judging by the number of vans arriving. Anyway, we’re only here for a night and we’ve had a great swim. This evening we will sally forth in search of an open bar for a glass of chilled rosé. The temperature is up to 25° but there is a brisk breeze.

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[GAVLAD]

Have a great trip. Loving the photos of the blue skies too.

 

[Ingwe]

Further to my earlier post of today, I was mistaken. There is a blackwater disposal point. It is marked “grey” water but another guest confirmed that it was the black water drain.
The bar has come alive so post supper, we’re off for a small rosé or two.

 

[Ingwe]

I have delayed posting for a while as 10 days on a site on the beach gets pretty tedious to read about. Camping Beauregard at Marseillan Plage is a site we’ve stayed at several times before and it never fails to please. That we feel this way is shared by many as it is invariably full at this time of the year. It is hard not to feel a little smug when you have a place and see many vans turned away. But we’ve been in the latter group on occasion so we know what it feels like.

Anyway the pitch was shady with a few hours of sun and the swimming in the med was as good as ever, we had some lovely meals in the town which is 5 minutes walk from the campsite.

We had our usual e-bike ride into Marseillan itself which is always a pleasure. There is a safe cycle path right into the town and once there, you can enjoy very reasonable restaurants and shops. It is also the start of the Canal du Midi and the boats moored along the canal, with their rigging or whatever, clanking gently in the sea breeze, is a delightfully evocative sound.

Anyway, after 11 nights (we extended by one day due to a threatened severe thunderstorm which was a few hours of rain and a couple of thunderclaps) we said our farewells to Marseillan Plage and headed off to Aix en Provence.

Now Aix really is something to write home about. After being lucky enough to have had a French house in Burgundy for nearly 20 years (we sold it in July) we’d grown to love Burgundy and also the relatively austere northern French regions like Picardy, Somme, Ile de France, Cher etc through which we had to pass. But Aix and its environs are something else. The warm weather, sun, almost African terrain and relaxed manner of its residents, endeared itself to us immediately.

Finding a space at Camping Chantecler, we went for a swim in their lovely pool. This is a four-star campsite so very pricey. They are not ACSI until next year So we paid €35 a night for three nights. (Yes, send for the defibrillator for Lenny HB)

After a refreshing night’s sleep, we took the No3 bus from outside the campsite into the centre of Aix. Aix is called the town of 1,000 fountains and they are everywhere.

The city is busy but not manic like Paris and there is a plethora of enticing restaurants and shops as well as the usual multiples found on all high streets. We lunched for €47 which was poulet in Camembert sauce, salad and frites. The price also included 2 alcohol-free Heinekens.
The food was delicious and we took our time. Not only because of the portion size but also because the overcast day started a gentle drizzle, so we enjoyed the restaurant’s shelter. Again the rain fizzled out and we resumed our exploration of Aix’s delights. There are statues of Zola and Cezanne and posters of the latter’s art everywhere.

We saw several more of the 1,000 fountains and then went into the Cathedral. As I’ve said previously, I tire quickly of churches but this one was special. The little streets (one quaintly named ‘street of squeezed elbows) twist into passages then open out into tree-filled leafy squares with lots

of cafés, brasseries etc with the Auxois (and a few thousand tourists) enjoying their delights. We had coffee and tea and then made our way back to the bus stop for the 20 minute trip back to the campsite. The bus service is brilliant. Frequent, clean, electric buses are the way forward for public transport. We’ve loved Aix and certainly recommend it and will undoubtedly return.