OK, thanks for that, and thanks for other advice.Please don't do that far easier to look at full size pics, thumbnails often get ignored as you have to open each one.
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OK, thanks for that, and thanks for other advice.Please don't do that far easier to look at full size pics, thumbnails often get ignored as you have to open each one.
I agree, but, this is NOT the first time I see it on budget bms. Even bigger brands, the software quality control is atrocious. So I got used to their mistakes.Maybe, maybe not. If that can get through their quality control and software testing processes, what else can? The difference between A and AH is fundamental to the monitoring and operation of the battery. It's as bad as confusing V and A, and shows a fundamental flaw in their quality control at the very least. Excusable in the sales flyers maybe, but not, surely, in the information display screens of the dedicated app.
Has your charger got a lithium charging setting? if not, only 70% to 80% charge before shut off.Camped a couple of nights last weekend. No hookup but have a 300ah fogstar lithium battery. Discharged to about 140/300.
Didn't think much of it.
Away this weekend, Friday evening battery was at about 170/300. Understandable, no sun at all at home in west yorks, and slipped my mind to hook up at home.
At campsite, using heating, charging phones and telly on, low watt electric kettle but switched to kettle on hob.
Last time I looked at the Fogstar app Saturday afternoon, battery had discharged to around 78/300.
Maybe an hour later everything went off, fully discharged.
Went to campsite bloke, paid for electric and hooked up.
Battery has only charged up to 140/300 and then stopped charging.
Any ideas why the battery discharged so quickly when it was roughly at a 1/4 full, and why it has stopped charging from hookup when at 140/300?
Newish battery, only 6 cycles.
Thanks
Hi there,Hi, which Victron controller do you have?
The vans control panel probably uses voltage to estimate the state of charge, and this type of gauge is configured for Lead Acid (Normal) batteries, not Lithium. A lead acid at 30% State of Charge is around 11.8v. A lithium would be almost flat, and the Battery Management System in the battery would be very close to stopping any further discharge. Voltage based estimates work OK on LA batteries but are no good for Lithium, because lithium stays at a high voltage, near 13v so showing full on your vans panel, until its down to 20% left, then the voltage falls off a cliff down to 12v, when the bms will turn it off, all this time your vans panel will be reporting everything is OK!
Not charging up, the app shows the battery BMS is set to allow charging, so is the battery charger definitely turned on?
The History graph axis are voltage on the side, and date and time on the bottom I think
I think the advice above, to fully charge the battery, and then fully discharge it a few times is good, and will correct the inaccurate reporting from the battery's BMS. But as said above they are always prone to drift off, because they don't catch the very small, or very large current flows, so rely on frequent charging to 100% (which is perhaps the only time they are bang on).
So I don't think there is a fundemantal problem, just the batteries BMS needs to "learn" about the battery which takes a few cycles - shame they are not delivered new with that done, but I guess it would add to the cost somewhat.
The advice that a shunt is best to measure the State of Charge of the battery makes sense because a decent shunt like the Victron unit can measure currents down to 0.1amp vs 1amp for a typical BMS. Shunts can also measure higher amps Our Victron type is 0.1amp to 500a which is typical for a van (They go up to 6000amp).
But if you normally plug in everyday, and get your BMS through a few cycles, you may choose to rely on that, rather then learn the ins and outs of configuring the shunt!
What do you mean by the "app has continued not to work" ?Hi there,
Thanks for your reply, and thanks to all who answered.
My Victron is an MPPT 75/15.
Re the advice to put the battery through a few cycles - how do I do that, please?
The app has continued to not work, so I am completely unable to monitor anything.
The app get a terrible score (2.8) on Google Play, so I am beginning to think the whole system is not fit for purpose.
I'll consider purchasing a Victron Shunt, but begrudge spending the extra money.
I also notice that the manual for the battery can not be downloaded, both on app and website.
The dip switch settings on the 12v Nordelettronica charger unit were set for Lithium.
Any advice on discharging the battery without a working app, guys?
TIA. Mike.
The first thing I would do is get on hookup and use a multimeter to measure what voltage you are getting at the battery terminals, remember that the primary task of the BMS is to protect the battery from over and under charging, the app should really only be considered a guide and as has been said will take a few cycles to calibrate itself. Quite a few of us now have Fogstar batteries and are very happy with them, once it's been cycled a few times it should all settle down and be quietly doing its job. Let us know what voltage you are getting at the battery terminals with a multimeter once on charge and maybe we can advise further.Hi there,
Thanks for your reply, and thanks to all who answered.
My Victron is an MPPT 75/15.
Re the advice to put the battery through a few cycles - how do I do that, please?
The app has continued to not work, so I am completely unable to monitor anything.
The app get a terrible score (2.8) on Google Play, so I am beginning to think the whole system is not fit for purpose.
I'll consider purchasing a Victron Shunt, but begrudge spending the extra money.
I also notice that the manual for the battery can not be downloaded, both on app and website.
The dip switch settings on the 12v Nordelettronica charger unit were set for Lithium.
Any advice on discharging the battery without a working app, guys?
TIA. Mike.
It will be very difficult to gage 70-80% SOC on lifepo4 by voltage almost impossible, as is still in the flat curve of the cycle. Also when battery reaches 13.8v its almost 95-99% charged. Give it 14v and its full. The 14.4v is only valid if your charge rate is minimum 0.2C rate, 20A for every 100ah.Has your charger got a lithium charging setting? if not, only 70% to 80% charge before shut off.
This is the app currently. 0 on capacity, 0 current, 11.2v, I believe all are incorrect.What do you mean by the "app has continued not to work" ?
You have posted screen shots of the app so the app itself must be working
Thanks for all of that, don't have a meter with me ,if I don't get one beforehand I'll crack on with that upon my return next week.The first thing I would do is get on hookup and use a multimeter to measure what voltage you are getting at the battery terminals, remember that the primary task of the BMS is to protect the battery from over and under charging, the app should really only be considered a guide and as has been said will take a few cycles to calibrate itself. Quite a few of us now have Fogstar batteries and are very happy with them, once it's been cycled a few times it should all settle down and be quietly doing its job. Let us know what voltage you are getting at the battery terminals with a multimeter once on charge and maybe we can advise further.
Fogstar manual attached.
What charge source do you have connected ?This is the app currently. 0 on capacity, 0 current, 11.2v, I believe all are incorrect.
This morning with 0.0 capacity we had lights, heating and could raise the electric bed. View attachment 983227
I think given you are away I would just use it - Victron Connect and your Solar controller will give you a voltage, so I would just run the battery down with whatever loads you can, or want to use, and when it gets to 13.0v shown on your solar with the panels disabled (when its dark - plug in the EHU charger, untill it hits 14.somethingv - If after a few full cycles like that, its still not right I would ask Fogstar to swap it.Hi there,
Thanks for your reply, and thanks to all who answered.
My Victron is an MPPT 75/15.
Re the advice to put the battery through a few cycles - how do I do that, please?
The app has continued to not work, so I am completely unable to monitor anything.
The app get a terrible score (2.8) on Google Play, so I am beginning to think the whole system is not fit for purpose.
I'll consider purchasing a Victron Shunt, but begrudge spending the extra money.
I also notice that the manual for the battery can not be downloaded, both on app and website.
The dip switch settings on the 12v Nordelettronica charger unit were set for Lithium.
Any advice on discharging the battery without a working app, guys?
TIA. Mike.
Were you on EHU ?This is the app currently. 0 on capacity, 0 current, 11.2v, I believe all are incorrect.
This morning with 0.0 capacity we had lights, heating and could raise the electric bed. View attachment 983227
Right now I'm on ehu.What charge source do you have connected ?
Not then I wasn't. We were unplugged overnight, using battery only, using lights, TV, heating. Had heating on low overnight. In the morning we had breakfast using lights and heating, then we raised the electric bed, then I plugged into the mains.Were you on EHU ?
Try uninstall and reboot phone the install again.Not then I wasn't. We were unplugged overnight, using battery only, using lights, TV, heating. Had heating on low overnight. In the morning we had breakfast using lights and heating, then we raised the electric bed, then I plugged into the mains.
When we went out this morning, the Adria panel was showing 23% capacity (for what that's worth), when we returned late afternoon, after a lovely sunny day, it was up to 73%. But during this evening, despite being plugged in, it has drained to zero.
The most frustrating thing is the non working app. It worked before we left home on this little trip to Broadway, since we got on site the app hasn't worked, so I have zero knowledge of what's happening.
I too think the app is ok, despite its shortcoming of accuracy, from your posts, to me you are consuming more than you can charge, and battery ends up low all the time.Morning all. Well, latest bit of the saga, this morning the vehicle battery was low and I've had to jump start the vehicle. I think it's suffice to say that my vehicle electrics are completely up the shute and there is something very wrong somewhere. We're cutting our stay short and going home, I've got the van booked in with my electrician tomorrow.
The app is showing the Fogstar battery is charging from the engine, so maybe the app is OK. Something completely depleted the Fogstar on our first night, and after that it hasn't charged from either solar or the mains.
I'll report back any findings. Thanks for your help guys.
slightly aside of this, my fogstar (280ah) app showed SOC 260ah but combined cell voltages of 12.4. had V of 13.5 two days previously. On charge (victron 30 a) slow rise to 13.2v and SOC 98%. drop to 12.7v after 6 hrs 2A draw. is this just BMS (still on cycle 1) or more sinister. Battery not been used much as just installed Oct. little discharge. Is long bulk charge and full discharge the way to go? Ta and bwI agree, but, this is NOT the first time I see it on budget bms. Even bigger brands, the software quality control is atrocious. So I got used to their mistakes.
Nothing sinister and normal behavior of a bms. The way it will trigger 100% SOC, is either by cell voltage or pack voltage set in the software, it could be 14.2-14.4v pack, or 3.55v-3.6v per cell.slightly aside of this, my fogstar (280ah) app showed SOC 260ah but combined cell voltages of 12.4. had V of 13.5 two days previously. On charge (victron 30 a) slow rise to 13.2v and SOC 98%. drop to 12.7v after 6 hrs 2A draw. is this just BMS (still on cycle 1) or more sinister. Battery not been used much as just installed Oct. little discharge. Is long bulk charge and full discharge the way to go? Ta and bw
There are many ways to know the charge in your batteries.It will be very difficult to gage 70-80% SOC on lifepo4 by voltage almost impossible, as is still in the flat curve of the cycle. Also when battery reaches 13.8v its almost 95-99% charged. Give it 14v and its full. The 14.4v is only valid if your charge rate is minimum 0.2C rate, 20A for every 100ah.
A lower charge rate will have a lower termination voltage.
Voltage as indicator of SOC is only valid when nearly empty or nearly full, not at 70-80%
I remain doubtful about the use of the shunt. I understand that it measures flows very precisely but the round trip efficiency of the battery is unlikely to exceed 93% and battery capacity reduces with temperature as anyone with an EV knows.I did say that over a period where the battery is not getting charged to 100% the BMS will go out of sync with the shunt, which is effectively saying the same thing you are. From personal experience I can say that initially the BMS displayed a total capacity of 230ah but was charging to 243ah, now the BMS after 11 cycles reports the capacity as being 243.4ah, so it has calibrated itself, and the SOC displayed is likely to be more accurate then it was initially, but ofcourse a correctly setup shunt will be more accurate still, especially if the battery is not reaching 100% every day.
The round trip efficiency of a lipepo4 is 95% or much higher. Charging efficiency is 99% at least when new, ( almost 100%) and it may drop to 98% after few years of use. Then, when it comes to discharging the peukert exponent setting takes care of that. Somebody did all the calcs for us, put in a nice pcb, and a microprocessor does the job, taking in consideration the charge-discharge rate, giving us a almost true value of what is going in or out. The shunt by itself will not be able to calculate the inefficiencies, it will count 1:1 in-out, but the pcb is the add on calcs that makes the shunt versatile to set/adapt in various systems with various inefficiencies. You just need to set those values right, that mirrors your system efficiencies. Not all are the same.I remain doubtful about the use of the shunt. I understand that it measures flows very precisely but the round trip efficiency of the battery is unlikely to exceed 93% and battery capacity reduces with temperature as anyone with an EV knows.
Yes, low temperature cut off charging.Could temperatures have anything to do with not charging? I have KS Energy lithium and it turns off at 5 degrees!