Has anyone fitted an electric step to the front passenger door as my good lady who is neither a high jump champion or an Amazon and finds the step up and down even worse? Any sensible suggestions besides stilts please?
Electric step to front passenger door Hymer B578 2012.
- Thread starter Gerry77
- Start date
OP
OP
My batteries+ ebl are about a meter from the step so that for me is the nearest/ easiest.
PaddyMCC just struck a nerve! I also have a Ctek dual 250 B2B fitted so could I can tap into that D+ signal connection because thats easier maybe easier than the ebl ?
PaddyMCC just struck a nerve! I also have a Ctek dual 250 B2B fitted so could I can tap into that D+ signal connection because thats easier maybe easier than the ebl ?
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Can I ask what the depth of the assembly is? I can't seem to find dimensions to this and would love to fit something like this to my alko chassis?
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Lenny HB
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- Oct 18, 2007
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Gerry77 bought the Thule step so get the dimensions of that one, mine is a Project 2000 and it's a plie of poo.
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OP
OP
Info on Thule 12v slideout step V18.
I have checked and cannot see a D+ connection to the Ctek D250s Dual, so will find another connection as you have suggested previously.
Ah but it is raining again in Cumbria!
I have checked and cannot see a D+ connection to the Ctek D250s Dual, so will find another connection as you have suggested previously.
Ah but it is raining again in Cumbria!
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OP
OP
I have just found this.
Just for info. Omnistore Electric Step.
wiring drawing .. and fault finding
Op was The late Techno Andy.
Just for info. Omnistore Electric Step.
wiring drawing .. and fault finding
Op was The late Techno Andy.
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OP
OP
Sorry,I look as though I have been skiving but temperatures here are back to below 5degrees and my hands dont like it. Success wiring in step and a new accessories fuse box fitted. Have tested and found my D+ so that can be connected tomorrow and hopefully all will be good to go. To fit the rear brackets to the step Im going to put her on the ramps to give me a bit more space. Have fitted a buzzer in the locker underneath the dinette seat and one by the step switch in the B pillar on the passenger side.
You were both correct it was the yellow cable for the D+ ! Subject to weather tomorrow I hope to finish and commission !
You were both correct it was the yellow cable for the D+ ! Subject to weather tomorrow I hope to finish and commission !
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OP
OP
Well it fitted, wired and working. I had a problem when I first connected it up, it motored out but would go back in. Eventually I found that there are two types of CBE step switches and the one I had purchased needed a link across the two centre vertical tabs( -ve) having sorted that it now goes in and out.
However I have wired it as the attached diagram which says Automatic retraction but it doesnt auto retract. Only buzzer functions correctly but not the auto retract. So it must be something I have got wrong in the relay connections as the rest of the wiring is the same.
As usual so near yet so far ! But further on than when I started! Any ideas please how its meant to auto retract
However I have wired it as the attached diagram which says Automatic retraction but it doesnt auto retract. Only buzzer functions correctly but not the auto retract. So it must be something I have got wrong in the relay connections as the rest of the wiring is the same.
As usual so near yet so far ! But further on than when I started! Any ideas please how its meant to auto retract
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OP
OP
I have found this explanation if it helps
“A standard Omnistep has 4 wires. The orange and purple connect to the motor, with grey and brown wires, which are interchangeable, being connected to the limit switch. The motor rotates in opposite directions, according to the polarity of its supply, as applied to the orange and purple wires.
The manual operating switch, which is in actual function two separate single pole changeover switches, is connected so that both of the motor wires are connected to earth with the switches in the normal unoperated state.
If the step "out" button is pressed, the purple motor wire is connected to +12V, and the step is driven outwards. Conversly when "in" button is pressed the the orange wire is connected to +12V, and the step retracts.
When the auto retract facility is added, the changeover contact of a relay is inserted into the orange motor wire, with the common contact (30) connected to the motor. The normally closed contact (87a) of the relay is connected to the switch terminal that would have been connected to the orange wire.
The normally open contact (87) of the relay is connected to a +12V supply. When the relay coil is energised i.e. the relay is operated, the step motor orange wire is disconnected from the manual switch, and connected to +12V. The step is is moved inwards.
The connctions to the relay coil should be coil +ve (86) to controlling source, such as ignition +ve, or D+. A connection to the +12v supply to a 3 way fridge element is often used for this supply. The negative terminal of the relay coil (85) needs to be connected to earth via the step limit switch. (Brown & grey wires). When the limit switch is operated, it opens the circuit for the relay coil and when the relay releases, both connections to the motor are connected together, which brings the motor to a halt.
(I am not aware of it being done, but with steps having an internal switch (2 wires), it should be possible to connect the limit switch in the relay coil positive connection.)
In order to ensure that the step fully retracts after the limit switch is operated, a 2200 mFd capacitor is connected across the relay coil. This capacitor slightly delays the release of the relay, and allows the step to drive fully home. As the capacitor is electrolytic, it must be connected with the correct polarity.
Given the symptoms described by the OP, I suggest checking that the step limit switch is correctly connected in the relay coil circuit, and also that the capacitor is connected across the relay coil in the correct polarity.
It is not really practicable to fully test a capacitor on a multimeter resistance range. You would need to apply the test leads with the correct polarity, and at best you may see an apparently increasing resistance reading, as the capacitor charges, and the current flowing into it decreases.”
“A standard Omnistep has 4 wires. The orange and purple connect to the motor, with grey and brown wires, which are interchangeable, being connected to the limit switch. The motor rotates in opposite directions, according to the polarity of its supply, as applied to the orange and purple wires.
The manual operating switch, which is in actual function two separate single pole changeover switches, is connected so that both of the motor wires are connected to earth with the switches in the normal unoperated state.
If the step "out" button is pressed, the purple motor wire is connected to +12V, and the step is driven outwards. Conversly when "in" button is pressed the the orange wire is connected to +12V, and the step retracts.
When the auto retract facility is added, the changeover contact of a relay is inserted into the orange motor wire, with the common contact (30) connected to the motor. The normally closed contact (87a) of the relay is connected to the switch terminal that would have been connected to the orange wire.
The normally open contact (87) of the relay is connected to a +12V supply. When the relay coil is energised i.e. the relay is operated, the step motor orange wire is disconnected from the manual switch, and connected to +12V. The step is is moved inwards.
The connctions to the relay coil should be coil +ve (86) to controlling source, such as ignition +ve, or D+. A connection to the +12v supply to a 3 way fridge element is often used for this supply. The negative terminal of the relay coil (85) needs to be connected to earth via the step limit switch. (Brown & grey wires). When the limit switch is operated, it opens the circuit for the relay coil and when the relay releases, both connections to the motor are connected together, which brings the motor to a halt.
(I am not aware of it being done, but with steps having an internal switch (2 wires), it should be possible to connect the limit switch in the relay coil positive connection.)
In order to ensure that the step fully retracts after the limit switch is operated, a 2200 mFd capacitor is connected across the relay coil. This capacitor slightly delays the release of the relay, and allows the step to drive fully home. As the capacitor is electrolytic, it must be connected with the correct polarity.
Given the symptoms described by the OP, I suggest checking that the step limit switch is correctly connected in the relay coil circuit, and also that the capacitor is connected across the relay coil in the correct polarity.
It is not really practicable to fully test a capacitor on a multimeter resistance range. You would need to apply the test leads with the correct polarity, and at best you may see an apparently increasing resistance reading, as the capacitor charges, and the current flowing into it decreases.”
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OP
OP
No because I assumed that needed the control box. I assume that with the relay etc it meant the step closed if you started the engine, but thats a guess.
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Lenny HB
LIFE MEMBER
- Oct 18, 2007
- 58,685
- 182,529
- Funster No
- 658
- MH
- Carthago Compactline
- Exp
- Since 2008 & many years tugging
My one (factory fitted) extends & retracts with the opening and closing of the door, the buzzer sounds if its out when the engine is running.
You could probably do it with a couple of timers only a few quid on ebay.
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OP
OP
Your suggestion is above my pay grade Im afraid. I dont know why I bothered with the relay as Im happy with a buzzer like the hab door.
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OP
OP
End of project. Not sure what what auto retract was meant to do so wired up the slide out step with two buzzers and am happy with it. Will post a couple pictures when the weather permits. Very heavy frost last night again.
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