Electric cooker on hookup

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Looking at other threads concerning ehu on sites, what will these different amps or watts or however rated run in relation to a hobtop like this.
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A kettle with a 62.5 ohm element will produce 1000W at 250V and 160W at 100V.
In which case you would specify the 220-240v range for that product. No need for 2 different products. Are you missing my point about the pointless paper exercise the EU did on this?
 
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A kettle with a 62.5 ohm element will produce 1000W at 250V and 160W at 100V.
Let me be clear.
Prior to the EU making this paper work change.
Mainland countries 220v, UK 240v. manufacturers produced single item for both both voltages.

Post paper work change. Nothing changed at all.
Mainland countries 220v, UK 240v. manufacturers produced single item for both both voltages.

The only difference is now we have to lie and say our 240v is 230v and mainland countries have to lie and say their 220v is 230v.

Hope that clarifies my point?
 
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chaser - I can safely say that to date not tripped any electrics either here or in France.
 
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Coolcats if you are ever wondering if a device keeps it's time based on mains frequency there is a bit of a giveaway.

If when you turn a device on it picks up the correct time. Then it is using either NTP or Rugby time.
If it sits there flashing either 00:00 or a random time and you have to set it after every power cut, then it is using the mains frequency to keep time.
Strange that I have devices that flash 00 and are battery powered

Now you said
I keep seeing 230V and it niggles me for some reason because it is not accurate.

I do not know why the EU foisted this on us as the interlinks are all DC as far as I am aware and there is no AC connection.
This is also why EU clocks drifted out of sync and our didn't a while ago.

Lenny HB said he Used crystals for short times but they would drift for long times so used mains frequency for that surprisingly accurate over a few hours.

Now given the drift of crystals and if using mains frequency for timing (which drifts) so two sources of timing which is not accurate and will cause drift over time. The only way to keep accurate timing is from the national atomic clock, if you want something that is accurate it needs to keep in time with the national atomic clock. Simples :)

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Strange that I have devices that flash 00 and are battery powered

Now you said
I keep seeing 230V and it niggles me for some reason because it is not accurate.

I do not know why the EU foisted this on us as the interlinks are all DC as far as I am aware and there is no AC connection.
This is also why EU clocks drifted out of sync and our didn't a while ago.

Lenny HB said he Used crystals for short times but they would drift for long times so used mains frequency for that surprisingly accurate over a few hours.

Now given the drift of crystals and if using mains frequency for timing (which drifts) so two sources of timing which is not accurate and will cause drift over time. The only way to keep accurate timing is from the national atomic clock, if you want something that is accurate it needs to keep in time with the national atomic clock. Simples :)
No idea what you are on about.
1) What has battery got to do with this? We are talking about mains frequency being used.
2) Mains frequency is more reliable than crystals over time.

I am done discussing this sorry.
 
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No idea what you are on about.
1) What has battery got to do with this? We are talking about mains frequency being used.
2) Mains frequency is more reliable than crystals over time.

I am done discussing this sorry.
I'm at a loss why you even started, can't see what it's got to do with cookers.
 
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I'm at a loss why you even started, can't see what it's got to do with cookers.
It was a minor diversion about 230V vs 240v and a linked video as to why it wasn't important.

Coolcats then made a big issue about something of which I still don't get.
 
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I'm at a loss why you even started, can't see what it's got to do with cookers.
I responded to post No9 regarding clock accuracy which was a bit off piste, it could affect your cooker if you wished to start lunch at 12:00 exactly :)

I was just pointing out that unless a clock is synced to the National Atomic clock it will slip its time.
 
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This is what we have,
A user review,

Worth the money.​

Nice slim unit, feet do not mark worktops like others do. Takes time and patients to get use to the settings, starts at max heat (Very fast) then you have to reduce the settings down. (Heat) Will burn contents of pan if the setting is too high, especially if your heating milk. Heat output is in pulses, not a smooth heat up but one gets use to that. Very economical indeed, in some cases better than an 800w microwave but this is a different type of heating and cooking. Be aware that the glass is NOT scratch proof if you drag pans on the surface, even new pans with completely flat base will do it. Have ordered special induction cooker pads to protect the glass from scratches, sellers details indicate that they have no affect on the heat/cooking.
Actually drops to 100w lowest setting. Read the other reviews on Ebay as well, one flags up a workaround for the 2000w initial start up and how to avoid it creating problems.
Mike.
I have an induction hob on our range at home and clean it very thoroughly after each use. The ease of cleaning was a big selling point for me. It gets plenty of splashes from frying or boiling over so how do you clean the mats? I knew that the glass could get scratched and have been careful with it for 6 months. There here are no marks on it yet.

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chaser - I can safely say that to date not tripped any electrics either here or in France.

You’re clearly not trying hard enough!

Our pancake making on Shrove Tuesday was rudely interrupted by a couple of trips when using our induction hob.

Ian
 
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