Electric cooker on hookup

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Looking at other threads concerning ehu on sites, what will these different amps or watts or however rated run in relation to a hobtop like this.
Deal: COOKTRON Double Induction Cooktop Burner with Fast Warm-Up Mode, 1800w 2 Induction Burner with 10 Temperature 9 Power Settings, Portable Dual Induction Cooker Cooktop with Child Safety Lock & Time https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09JK44LG6/?tag=mhf04-21
 
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Please note I am not having a go at you, nor correcting you in any way. Your post was just the final (very tiny) straw that broke the camels back and prompted this rant.

In the UK we still have 240V not 230V. In Europe they have 220V not 230V.

The EU in their wisdom changed the nominal and tolerance values in a paperwork exercise that actually changes nothing.

The UK did not change all their power stations and transformers overnight to generate 230V.

Full explanation here if anyone is actually interested.


I keep seeing 230V and it niggles me for some reason because it is not accurate.

I do not know why the EU foisted this on us as the interlinks are all DC as far as I am aware and there is no AC connection.
This is also why EU clocks drifted out of sync and our didn't a while ago.

Interesting video and yes sorry off topic.


Clocks such as the one on your computer are synced to the national Atomic clock not the vague value of volts 😎👍 my battery operated clock is not affected either nor my wristwatch (gps)

 
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We have a single plate induction, luckily our saucepan set already on the van worked with it. It can be dialled from 2000w, down to 500w, so suitable for most electrical site supplies.When not in use it lives inside the gas oven, taking up mostly unoccupied space.
Light weight as well.
Mike.
 
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We have a single plate induction, luckily our saucepan set already on the van worked with it. It can be dialled from 2000w, down to 500w, so suitable for most electrical site supplies.When not in use it lives inside the gas oven, taking up mostly unoccupied space.
Light weight as well.
Mike.
It's surely looking the way forward if electric is going to be included at these Aires.

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I will just add that the beauty of the induction hob outside compared to say gas is that it heats the pan directly so works just as well on a windy day.
Hadn't thought of that, the gas ones are a pain when it's windy.
 
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Ok then, anyone that has one, what is recommended?
 
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Just one think, whe you set it to lower power or low heat, does it come in bursts to maintain that level? We found it even turned down, you got to have the pot not close to full, the bursts makes it boil over. Also when you turn it on by default starts at full, and you have to be quick to turn it down. It catches me with overload for a second on inverter.
We found a 1k resistive plate much kinder on inverter.
 
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Runs nicely off the inverter Lenny and doesn't use that much power.
I have plans for one but as we are getting a tiddler might be difficult using it in the van if I need to use the hob at the same time.

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It's surely looking the way forward if electric is going to be included at these Aires.
We covered most of the basis, [ except BBQ ] as well as the indoor oven and hob combination, I also have a small gas cannister burner single ring, so even when not on hook up, we can still cook more, pungent fish dishes outside. I've never tried the induction off our small 1500w inverter, It should work, but it would mean hammering our AGMs at the wrong end of the day as we customarily eat our main meal in the evening.
Mike.
 
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Has anyone got any idea if this is any good, I like it's looks and price?
It's cheap & with Robert Dyas easy to take back if it doesn't perform.
I would think you would be better off with two signals in a small van then you could use one inside when needed.
 
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Clocks such as the one on your computer are synced to the national Atomic clock not the vague value of volts 😎👍 my battery operated clock is not affected either nor my wristwatch (gps)
You don't say. clocks not connected to the grid not affected by grid frequency fluctuations? :eek: :rofl::rofl: :rofl:
 
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It's cheap & with Robert Dyas easy to take back if it doesn't perform.
I would think you would be better off with two signals in a small van then you could use one inside when needed.
This would be inside nearly all the time ,on top of the gas hob.

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You don't say. clocks not connected to the grid not affected by grid frequency fluctuations? :eek: :rofl::rofl: :rofl:
Back in the late 60's early 70's I worked for a small compmany that made timers for industrial use. Used crystals for short times but they would drift for long times so used mains frequency for that surprisingly accurate over a few hours.
 
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Back in the late 60's early 70's I worked for a small compmany that made timers for industrial use. Used crystals for short times but they would drift for long times so used mains frequency for that surprisingly accurate over a few hours.
I created an oven controller for the first factory I worked at. Used mains frequency for that.
 
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Has anyone got any idea if this is any good, I like it's looks and price?
Do you really want/need a double as that obviously ramps up the power use, you can turn them down to low power levels of course but a lot of them control by turning a high ish setting on and off, ours on level 3 from 10 will which would be a high simmer is still using 800 watts but intermittently so two rings doing that could hit 1600 watts or over 6 amps.
 
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Do you really want/need a double as that obviously ramps up the power use, you can turn them down to low power levels of course but a lot of them control by turning a high ish setting on and off, ours on level 3 from 10 will which would be a high simmer is still using 800 watts but intermittently so two rings doing that could hit 1600 watts or over 6 amps.
When we cook on the gas hob we sometimes have three rings working plus the grill.

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When we cook on the gas hob we sometimes have three rings working plus the grill.
Yes but that won't trip the leccy ;) I will use single induction outside for the smelly or fatty stuff and jen may well do the veggies inside on gas or in the microwave.
 
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Why spend lots more on fancy induction hobs, when a portable twin ceramic electric hob is a mere £35 and suits any old pans.
 
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Why spend lots more on fancy induction hobs, when a portable twin ceramic electric hob is a mere £35 and suits any old pans.
Well that's what I was looking at at the start, but apparently these induction ones are quicker and use less electric.
 
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You don't say. clocks not connected to the grid not affected by grid frequency fluctuations? :eek: :rofl::rofl: :rofl:
Really Gromett you should know better all computers need power and will one way or another be connected to the grid they will also take their timing from the network the grid does not affect a computers clock.

Personally I do not know of any clock powered directly by mains voltage, which means fluctuations of power are normally smoothed out particularly if a battery or capacitor is involved.

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Really Gromett you should know better all computers need power and will one way or another be connected to the grid they will also take their timing from the network the grid does not affect a computers clock.
I see you are up to your usual tricks of changing the subject then arguing about something irrelevant. A computer tends to be connected to the internet, runs on DC power and has to have a frequency generator for the clock. Any networked computer will tend to use NTP.

Personally I do not know of any clock powered directly by mains voltage,
Microwave oven is exactly one example as mentioned in the video. Non internet connected timers such as for boilers will quite often take their clock frequency from the mains.

If you were genuinely interested and not just looking to argue a pointless point. You could have googled it and found a few more examples. HERE is just one.

If you had googled you would also have seen that any alarm clock based on the LM8562 chip would be mains frequency tied.

I am done with this topic. I have not idea what point you are trying to make.
 
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Please note I am not having a go at you, nor correcting you in any way. Your post was just the final (very tiny) straw that broke the camels back and prompted this rant.

In the UK we still have 240V not 230V. In Europe they have 220V not 230V.

The EU in their wisdom changed the nominal and tolerance values in a paperwork exercise that actually changes nothing.

The UK did not change all their power stations and transformers overnight to generate 230V.
So would you have preferred it if they had framed their regulations so that manufacturers had to produce two different voltage versions of each appliance, and set up strict inspection controls on them so they never got accidentally used on the 'wrong' voltage? Even though it makes very little difference in practice?
 
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So would you have preferred it if they had framed their regulations so that manufacturers had to produce two different voltage versions of each appliance, and set up strict inspection controls on them so they never got accidentally used on the 'wrong' voltage? Even though it makes very little difference in practice?
No. Manufacturers can still produce one piece of gear that works on anything from 100v - 250v. That is an actual fact what they do in reality. Switch mode power supplies can manage a very wide range of inputs and frequencies.
Some manufactures do a more limited input voltage range that usually just state 220-240v

I just did a quick sweep through my connected appliances and all of them are either 100v-250v like my Dell laptop charger, or my USB charger.
Others like my Ryobi battery charger simply specify 220-240V.

Even before the EU paper change manufacturers did this.
 
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Coolcats if you are ever wondering if a device keeps it's time based on mains frequency there is a bit of a giveaway.

If when you turn a device on it picks up the correct time. Then it is using either NTP or Rugby time.
If it sits there flashing either 00:00 or a random time and you have to set it after every power cut, then it is using the mains frequency to keep time.
 
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Ok then, anyone that has one, what is recommended?
This is what we have,
A user review,

Worth the money.​

Nice slim unit, feet do not mark worktops like others do. Takes time and patients to get use to the settings, starts at max heat (Very fast) then you have to reduce the settings down. (Heat) Will burn contents of pan if the setting is too high, especially if your heating milk. Heat output is in pulses, not a smooth heat up but one gets use to that. Very economical indeed, in some cases better than an 800w microwave but this is a different type of heating and cooking. Be aware that the glass is NOT scratch proof if you drag pans on the surface, even new pans with completely flat base will do it. Have ordered special induction cooker pads to protect the glass from scratches, sellers details indicate that they have no affect on the heat/cooking.
Actually drops to 100w lowest setting. Read the other reviews on Ebay as well, one flags up a workaround for the 2000w initial start up and how to avoid it creating problems.
Mike.

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