Ecoflo, is this a good buy.

YOu can get crocodile clip to cigarette connector premade cables, and an inline fuse holder (you put on positive wire only) is about 3 quid from screwfix + screw. Add a soldering iron and some shirnk wrap sleeve and bob is your proverbial uncle. It'll cost about £8 total (assuming you have a soldering iron and some shrink wrap for cables already). (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25513260...pid=5339023013&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 for the croc clips to cig socket premade). It looks liek it'll handle 8a, but you will need to inspect the cable used to check on arrival.

Obviously you'll need to fuse for whatever quality wire is in the premade cable (online cable calculators to work out if it can take 8A or not from the diameter/construction of cable).

Should add I'd proably drop the croc clip end connectors and replace with proper ring/appropriate terminals for your battery if it's a perm socket you install somewhere too).

Should add though in HEAVY use, you may be better buying a seperate 200W solar panel, we've found 100W does not cope with recharging a deltra 2 after a few inclemant days.. Despite your huge lithium reserves, ... a 200W foldable may be better as even in relatively rubbish weather like today where it's been cloudy most of day we've been pullling in 50W near all day. These are actually not too expensive but the raw copper cable to extend the cable to the van if you need it (decent quality long MC4 cables) are about 20-30quid.
I have just bought this just to charge the ecoflo £72 with the voucher, I have already got 2 100 w ones on the roof but thought this might provide a bit of extra .
 
I have just bought this just to charge the ecoflo £72 with the voucher, I have already got 2 100 w ones on the roof but thought this might provide a bit of extra .
It will provide a bit extra yes, with 300W total doubt you'll have an issue on sunny days (the issue is on a overcast day my 100W (which was broken) was struggling to get over the 15W minimum the ecoflows seem to have). It is surprsing how much the foldables bring in at 6-8am (and at dusk) due to being anglable compared with roof solar where the generation drops off ..

That said, with 300W you should cope as I can't imagine it'll be overcast > 7 days.
 
It will provide a bit extra yes, with 300W total doubt you'll have an issue on sunny days (the issue is on a overcast day my 100W (which was broken) was struggling to get over the 15W minimum the ecoflows seem to have). It is surprsing how much the foldables bring in at 6-8am (and at dusk) due to being anglable compared with roof solar where the generation drops off ..

That said, with 300W you should cope as I can't imagine it'll be overcast > 7 days.
You have got to admit there are some cracking deals on prime at the moment if you are in the market for this sort of stuff.
Anyone that's thinking of getting any of this stuff should be getting over there.
 
You have got to admit there are some cracking deals on prime at the moment if you are in the market for this sort of stuff.
Anyone that's thinking of getting any of this stuff should be getting over there.
(checking Aliexpress) for reference may also be useful.
China now delivers often in 7 days, and is half the amazon price in many cases.

I've not checked on solar though, as it's bulky -> but yeah, we've spent a small fortune on Amazon today (new docking station for laptop, new laptop as old one is randomly stopping and needing rebooting far too often, and finally a new screen for my office as the one of the old screens is starting to fail (it's got dim spots throughout it), so it looks ugly). But all that said, we've saved over £600 on what the above basket would have cost yesterday.
 
YOu can get crocodile clip to cigarette connector premade cables, and an inline fuse holder (you put on positive wire only) is about 3 quid from screwfix + screw. Add a soldering iron and some shirnk wrap sleeve and bob is your proverbial uncle. It'll cost about £8 total (assuming you have a soldering iron and some shrink wrap for cables already). (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25513260...pid=5339023013&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 for the croc clips to cig socket premade). It looks liek it'll handle 8a, but you will need to inspect the cable used to check on arrival.

Obviously you'll need to fuse for whatever quality wire is in the premade cable (online cable calculators to work out if it can take 8A or not from the diameter/construction of cable).

Should add I'd proably drop the croc clip end connectors and replace with proper ring/appropriate terminals for your battery if it's a perm socket you install somewhere too).

Should add though in HEAVY use, you may be better buying a seperate 200W solar panel, we've found 100W does not cope with recharging a deltra 2 after a few inclemant days.. Despite your huge lithium reserves, ... a 200W foldable may be better as even in relatively rubbish weather like today where it's been cloudy most of day we've been pullling in 50W near all day. These are actually not too expensive but the raw copper cable to extend the cable to the van if you need it (decent quality long MC4 cables) are about 20-30quid.
Thanks Starquake,
As you already know my electrical knowledge is minimal.
So,
I would buy an inline fuse holder and cut the live wire and solder it in with a 10? Amp fuse, then connect bulldog clips to battery?

Thanks for the link to the bulldog clip.
Any chance of a link to a suitable fuse holder?

For anyone following this thread I used my new Tefal 4.2 ltr Tefal airfryer today (from the delta 2) and can confirm that a 20 min burn at 200 degrees uses just less than 50% of the delta 2's capacity so to my mind, a planned charging regime is essential to get the best from the delta and its inverter.

Regarding the solar panel, I have the 100watt fold out eco AND 100watt on the roof to take out what I steal from the battery to top up the eco flow.

I'll give this a try first but will bear in mind your comments regarding a 200watt panel (roof space permitting).

Thanks again for your help

Graydo

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Thanks Starquake,
As you already know my electrical knowledge is minimal.
So,
I would buy an inline fuse holder and cut the live wire and solder it in with a 10? Amp fuse, then connect bulldog clips to battery?
Yes, and insulate the connections, you could use in-line butt connectors or wagos to connect it too (for the inline fuse holder). I'd also actually remove the bulldog ends and CRIMP on suitable battery terminals for your battery, I can't remotely say which ring terminal you'll need. But again these are standard, and halfords, screwfix, or an electrical wholesaler will have those bits. (and if they are over a few quid check online as you being ripped off).


Sorry for the huge link above, but halford blade fuse holder is what you need (and the 30A peak capacity one given you going to be doing 8a constant). £2 from halfords !

The key thing is checking the conductors (ie, wire size) of that adapter I linked, you can't really tell from a photo the wiring type or size, but you want enuogh to handle a 8A constant 12V load obviously. (you probably want about a 16AWG (which is around 1.2mm square) conductor size of copper, slightly bigger in aluminum. Calipers to measure the cable size if it's not printed on the cable you may fine useful in checking this.

Then be sure to measure and check the wire not getting warm as you charge the ecoflow when done, as it "shouldn't" with sufficient wire size. Check the cable at 1 min, 5 min intervals for about half an hour. If it's not warm after that you probably as safe as you can be.
 
Thanks for that,
the current socket and plug start to heat up in the van with anything more than 4.amp charging which presumably was the cause of the blown fuse, and perhaps with the length of the cable to the consumer unit.
(More resistance?)

I'll buy the socket and inline fuse and give it a go.
If it works with the temporary bulldog clips I'll look at a more permanent connection to the batteries. 👍

Graydo
 
Does anybody have any idea what kind of socket I would need and where to get it
I fitted a XT60 socket and use a female to female XT60 cable to charge my Bluetti AC70. I did try a cigarette socket but it wasn’t a very tight fit and the plug was getting hot. You can buy a pre wired XT60 wall mounted socket on Amazon.
 
I fitted a XT60 socket and use a female to female XT60 cable to charge my Bluetti AC70. I did try a cigarette socket but it wasn’t a very tight fit and the plug was getting hot. You can buy a pre wired XT60 wall mounted socket on Amazon.
Straight from the leisure battery?
 
Thanks for that,
the current socket and plug start to heat up in the van with anything more than 4.amp charging which presumably was the cause of the blown fuse, and perhaps with the length of the cable to the consumer unit.
(More resistance?)

I'll buy the socket and inline fuse and give it a go.
If it works with the temporary bulldog clips I'll look at a more permanent connection to the batteries. 👍

Graydo
Yes, use a cable calculator to work out voltage drop over length, as you may need a larger diameter cabe if you need to run over a metre -> so many of these online but my general principle is about just over 1mm2 (or 16AWG) for any significant 12V load. The isseu is many cheaper chinese "kits" end up using cheaper 21-22AWG alumininum, and thus do warm up.

The standard cigarette lighter isn't really rated for 10A constant draw, I'd limit to 6 -> and as pointed out you could make a XT60 socket to XT60i plug .. reading about how ecoflow detects it's a 12V charger (so to use limit) if you connect the centre pin of the xt60i to the positive side of the connection, it should read a standard xt60 plug as a 12V car charging lead. (or just cut the end off the supplied plug (ie the cigreatte adapter at that end, and fit a new xt60 plug, so you have a xt60 connector). As long a the end connecting to the ecoflow connects centre pin to + it'll obey the charge limit you set. Ie, cutting the cigarette piece off and DIRECTLY connecting to 12V should work. (you may want another cigarette cable to connect when you driving). The XT60i connectors are avaialble from normal electronics places, so you either solder, or just buy another cigarette charger and chop that bit off.

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Worth noting for Delta2 owners something I just read that is "useful" to know. YOu can help solar and enable the mppt faster by using a Ecoflow branded XT60i to MPPT solar cable as that connects the centre pin to negative on the xt60i, which helps the detection logic work out it's solar "quicker". This may explain some of the solar "fun" I've been having with generation below 15w failing to register.. Looks like I need to desolder the xt60 on my own solar cable and put a negative pin connection in place on a new xt60i plug.

Alternatively buy the ecoflow own brand xt60i to mc4 patch cable for "25 english pounds" ... which may be less trouble.

Worth noting though the solar on mine DOES work on a normal xt60, I think this just explains some of the behaviours when lower current is in play.
 
Straight from the leisure battery?
Yeah, it'll need an inline fuse, but it looks liek it's supported assuming you use a xt60i and set the right pin to tell it it's a 12V battery so to limit the current.

Does require use of a xt60i instead of a xt60. I learnt something new about ecoflows today in why they use the xt60i connector for 12V charging!
 
Like this?

GELRHONR 16AWG Battery Alligator Crocodile Clip to XT60 Extension Cable,12V Alligator Clips to XT60 Male Connector Quick Disconnect Cable-5.5Ft https://amzn.eu/d/06nK9rC7
 
Like this?

GELRHONR 16AWG Battery Alligator Crocodile Clip to XT60 Extension Cable,12V Alligator Clips to XT60 Male Connector Quick Disconnect Cable-5.5Ft https://amzn.eu/d/06nK9rC7
Thats not got the XT60i bits to tell the ecoflow to limit charge to what you set in the app. Likely will charge at over 10A but may result in some melty cables. I mean I've not tried this in caveats, it MAY work, just worth noting that from what I'm reading from ecoflow you do need the 60i connector to replicate the current limiting that the cigarette adapter can configure via software). (and the guidance I saw showed it needed the opposite pin connection to the one used for solar charging).

suggests it should work regardless, but as said I've not tested it.
 
I've used mine with soem audio gear (Focusrite interface) just fine however these are powered off USB from a computer (which is via the ecoflow). It's pure sine so should be fine in theory, but we got no audio nasties via the mic when on the ecoflow.

Can't guarantee anything, but they are certainally a better quality inverter than the allpowers which DID introduce noise when powering laptop with focusrite ...
I bought a river 2 max on the Amazon deal as I know if there's any issues I can return it. Might also be useful on the boat for charging things if there's no hook up although we already have lots of small powerbank things.
 
Thats not got the XT60i bits to tell the ecoflow to limit charge to what you set in the app. Likely will charge at over 10A but may result in some melty cables. I mean I've not tried this in caveats, it MAY work, just worth noting that from what I'm reading from ecoflow you do need the 60i connector to replicate the current limiting that the cigarette adapter can configure via software). (and the guidance I saw showed it needed the opposite pin connection to the one used for solar charging).

suggests it should work regardless, but as said I've not tested it.

Just a small one mate? Can you just wire these things straight to the l a battery setup in the van , you see all these threads of lithium wanting a different charger, will it work with the charger that's in?
 
Just a small one mate? Can you just wire these things straight to the l a battery setup in the van , you see all these threads of lithium wanting a different charger, will it work with the charger that's in?
Depends which direction you mean.
The 12V accessory sockers (DC5521 on back of the delta2 CAN power a lot of van stuff that uses below 3A). The delta2's own cigrarette lighter output CAN run stuff up to 10A (and I've seen some people feeding their vans from it). It wouldnt charge a 12V lithium battery though, it's not got an external charger connector (it outputs 12V regulated, which is not a charge current).

Charging from a lead acid battery I would advise against though, if only as it will kill your leisure batterys quickly -> 4a charging will maxmise their life, but they'll still only get 2-300 cycles doing it. If you read spec sheet on lead acid, they are designed for low current (ie 4a or lower) for many hours to give their full life. We do it on ours as our lead acids get very low use usually so gives them some "exercise" whenever we offgrid, we take then down to about 60% on the charging of the delta2 via cigrrette lighter socker... then let solar recover the van which will "help" a bit with the lead acid longevity. I wouldn't ever take a lead acid down below 50% as that does kill the battery quickly. Where the delta2's batterys good for likely 2-3000 cycles at near full depth.
 
Depends which direction you mean.
The 12V accessory sockers (DC5521 on back of the delta2 CAN power a lot of van stuff that uses below 3A). The delta2's own cigrarette lighter output CAN run stuff up to 10A (and I've seen some people feeding their vans from it). It wouldnt charge a 12V lithium battery though, it's not got an external charger connector (it outputs 12V regulated, which is not a charge current).

Charging from a lead acid battery I would advise against though, if only as it will kill your leisure batterys quickly -> 4a charging will maxmise their life, but they'll still only get 2-300 cycles doing it. If you read spec sheet on lead acid, they are designed for low current (ie 4a or lower) for many hours to give their full life. We do it on ours as our lead acids get very low use usually so gives them some "exercise" whenever we offgrid, we take then down to about 60% on the charging of the delta2 via cigrrette lighter socker... then let solar recover the van which will "help" a bit with the lead acid longevity. I wouldn't ever take a lead acid down below 50% as that does kill the battery quickly. Where the delta2's batterys good for likely 2-3000 cycles at near full depth.
Sorry to keep on , but now I have 200 w solar charging my lead batterys so if I just connect to that will it work, like charging 3 batterys instead of the two.
 
Sorry to keep on , but now I have 200 w solar charging my lead batterys so if I just connect to that will it work, like charging 3 batterys instead of the two.
You can't connect 2 MPPT controllers to the same solar on roof. You can connect a wire from your leisure batterys to the delta2 to top it up like the cigarette lighter, and it will limit to the the current you pick in the app IF you use a xt60i connector at the ecoflow end and set the middle pin to link to positive.

Then the roof solar will charge both as you say -> but the ecoflow will always be charged and WILL take all of the leisure battery TO do that charge if empty. It'll act like a buffer if you use say a air fry session from the ecoflow where it'll discharge to 50% then the van will slowly recharge it. (at ~ 50W). The solar may actually cover the charging as you doing it IF you do this in day when sunny.

But please don't do this stuff if you don't understand it, check you not getting warm wire, and the current is limited to 4A if you taking from your leisure batterys as you shouldn't discharge them too quickly (if they are lithium ignore me and set to 8 or 10A).

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You can't connect 2 MPPT controllers to the same solar on roof. You can connect a wire from your leisure batterys to the delta2 to top it up like the cigarette lighter, and it will limit to the the current you pick in the app IF you use a xt60i connector at the ecoflow end and set the middle pin to link to positive.

Then the roof solar will charge both as you say -> but the ecoflow will always be charged and WILL take all of the leisure battery TO do that charge if empty. It'll act like a buffer if you use say a air fry session from the ecoflow where it'll discharge to 50% then the van will slowly recharge it. (at ~ 50W). The solar may actually cover the charging as you doing it IF you do this in day when sunny.

But please don't do this stuff if you don't understand it, check you not getting warm wire, and the current is limited to 4A if you taking from your leisure batterys as you shouldn't discharge them too quickly (if they are lithium ignore me and set to 8 or 10A).
Take no notice if you think I am wasting your time but just to clarify.
I do know what you are saying and have cables that would tow an excavator but this puzzles me, now I have two lead 100 ah batteries that are never below 12. 5 volts, and connected to two 100w panels that have my batteries at about 14 v by 10 o clock .
Now the idea of this ecoflo is to collect all the electric I am now wasting, so how do you propose I do it?
My original idea is to plug it into the fag lighter , I'm not worried how long it takes to charge and just stick with my setup as it is now, but on thinking about it it seems there are other ways.
Should I split the solar or just use the solar input on this thing and connect the other batterys to this or what?
 
What helped me was to think of the hab batteries and ecoflow as 2 separate buckets of juice/water.

I've got one hose (solar).

My solar is connected to/fills up the hab bucket.

I could either
1) leave solar filling up my hab bucket and then pour juice into (charge) the ecoflow
or
2) connect my solar to my ecoflow

Can't do both at the same time.

If you choose 1), there are different rates you can pour juice from hab into ecoflow depending on how you connect them.

12V Fag lighter is the slowest but simplest. There are possibilities of pouring the juice into ecoflow quicker, if you can scale up the voltage from 12V to 36 or more, but you'd have to be technically competent.

Sorry if this sounds childish or isn't helping, certainly don't want to offend anyone :smiley:
 
Last edited:
What helped me was to think of the hab batteries and ecoflow as 2 separate buckets of juice/water.

I've got one hose (solar).

My solar is connected to/fills up the hab bucket.

I could either
1) leave solar filling up my hab bucket and then pour juice into (charge) the ecoflow
or
2) connect my solar to my ecoflow

Can't do both at the same time.

If you choose 1), there are different rates you can pour juice from hab into ecoflow depending on how you connect them.

12V Fag lighter is the slowest but simplest. There are possibilities of pouring the juice into ecoflow quicker, if you can scale up the voltage from 12V to 36 or more, but you'd have to be technically competent.

Sorry if this sounds childish or isn't helping, certainly don't want to offend anyone :smiley:

Thats a very good way of putting it. And the key point with your lead acids, is their life is directly related to how heavily and hard (the more amps you pull at once basically) you use them. TYpically if you pulll 5A of a lead acid battery (100A) it'll last well for say 8 hours. If you pull 10A constant for 4 hours you are pretty much damaging it despite the fact you actually pull near the same amount of actual "work" out of the battery.

Personally if aiming to not kill your leisure batteries inside a year or two you are best to "slow" charge using the 12V cig socket (or a direct wire from leisure battery to ecoflow with the xt60i connector at ecoflow end with the middle pin going to positive).

We have 100W on roof, and 200W externally of foldable at current use. In daylight hours we connect the ecoflow to the solar, and when it gets dark, we connect it to the van for about 5-6 hours. Then when daylight breaks we use "both" solar in effect at same time, and get the "most" use of our solar on roof and external array. We only typically need to connect to the van via cigarette lead at 4A on very persistant inclement periods at moment, but it does depend if we cooking on air fryer, or using the ice machine.
 
Thats a very good way of putting it. And the key point with your lead acids, is their life is directly related to how heavily and hard (the more amps you pull at once basically) you use them. TYpically if you pulll 5A of a lead acid battery (100A) it'll last well for say 8 hours. If you pull 10A constant for 4 hours you are pretty much damaging it despite the fact you actually pull near the same amount of actual "work" out of the battery.

Personally if aiming to not kill your leisure batteries inside a year or two you are best to "slow" charge using the 12V cig socket (or a direct wire from leisure battery to ecoflow with the xt60i connector at ecoflow end with the middle pin going to positive).

We have 100W on roof, and 200W externally of foldable at current use. In daylight hours we connect the ecoflow to the solar, and when it gets dark, we connect it to the van for about 5-6 hours. Then when daylight breaks we use "both" solar in effect at same time, and get the "most" use of our solar on roof and external array. We only typically need to connect to the van via cigarette lead at 4A on very persistant inclement periods at moment, but it does depend if we cooking on air fryer, or using the ice machine.
What helped me was to think of the hab batteries and ecoflow as 2 separate buckets of juice/water.

I've got one hose (solar).

My solar is connected to/fills up the hab bucket.

I could either
1) leave solar filling up my hab bucket and then pour juice into (charge) the ecoflow
or
2) connect my solar to my ecoflow

Can't do both at the same time.

If you choose 1), there are different rates you can pour juice from hab into ecoflow depending on how you connect them.

12V Fag lighter is the slowest but simplest. There are possibilities of pouring the juice into ecoflow quicker, if you can scale up the voltage from 12V to 36 or more, but you'd have to be technically competent.

Sorry if this sounds childish or isn't helping, certainly don't want to offend anyone :smiley:
Yeah thanks guys , pretty much what I was thinking at the start , I was just trying to complicate it by thinking. :doh: (y)
 
Worth noting for Delta2 owners something I just read that is "useful" to know. YOu can help solar and enable the mppt faster by using a Ecoflow branded XT60i to MPPT solar cable as that connects the centre pin to negative on the xt60i, which helps the detection logic work out it's solar "quicker". This may explain some of the solar "fun" I've been having with generation below 15w failing to register.. Looks like I need to desolder the xt60 on my own solar cable and put a negative pin connection in place on a new xt60i plug.

Alternatively buy the ecoflow own brand xt60i to mc4 patch cable for "25 english pounds" ... which may be less trouble.

Worth noting though the solar on mine DOES work on a normal xt60, I think this just explains some of the behaviours when lower current is in play.
I'm ok with most of this
(although its a lot to absorb 😁)
But am unsure of how to confgure/ reconfigure pins from xt60 to xt60i to limit charging from the lithiums like the software does in the app.
I may look at this solution further down the line but for the moment I am going with the cigarette lighter option with (initially) bulldog clips to the battery.

I picked up my fuse holder today and noted that the cable was 12awg, (although rated to 30watt) still to see what size wire the cigarette socket is, as It's still in the post.

If the cigarette wire is 16 awg is there any problem in mixing wire sizes?
I can always buy thicker wire and rewire I suppose.
Its probably worth mentioning that the total distance of wires between my eco flow and the lithium batteries is probably less than 24 inches (and more like 18).

Graydo

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I'm ok with most of this
(although its a lot to absorb 😁)
But am unsure of how to confgure/ reconfigure pins from xt60 to xt60i to limit charging from the lithiums like the software does in the app.
I may look at this solution further down the line but for the moment I am going with the cigarette lighter option with (initially) bulldog clips to the battery.

Graydo
Mixing wire size is fine, you use the smallest wire size as the number to use in calulating when you do so... (ie highest number as 18AWG is worse than 16AWG (lower numbers are thicker wire) in a cable calulator to calculate max current. 30amp 12awg.. is actually (at 12V) around 360Watt btw, so a 12AWG wire can move a lot of electrons (safely). Given you want to move 10 amp at 12volt 12 or 16awg is almost certainally fine at those lengths.
 
Good man,
thanks for the info 👍

Graydo
 
Take no notice if you think I am wasting your time but just to clarify.
I do know what you are saying and have cables that would tow an excavator but this puzzles me, now I have two lead 100 ah batteries that are never below 12. 5 volts, and connected to two 100w panels that have my batteries at about 14 v by 10 o clock .
Now the idea of this ecoflo is to collect all the electric I am now wasting, so how do you propose I do it?
My original idea is to plug it into the fag lighter , I'm not worried how long it takes to charge and just stick with my setup as it is now, but on thinking about it it seems there are other ways.
Should I split the solar or just use the solar input on this thing and connect the other batterys to this or what?
chaser
Why not fit a change over switch to the feed from solar to reg then when batteries are charged enough flip the switch and you can feed the power bank direct from solar.
You keep both circuits separate and don’t risk killing lead battery if you forget to stop charging power bank, when you say go out for a meal.
 
chaser
Why not fit a change over switch to the feed from solar to reg then when batteries are charged enough flip the switch and you can feed the power bank direct from solar.
You keep both circuits separate and don’t risk killing lead battery if you forget to stop charging power bank, when you say go out for a meal.
Well that was one of my ideas but no one else suggested it so I left it but yes I might try that.
I don't want to upset my present system though as it works perfectly but just got miles more electric than we need and was thinking of moving it to where I could use it, but it's this difference between lead and lithium that's foxing me.
 
Well that was one of my ideas but no one else suggested it so I left it but yes I might try that.
I don't want to upset my present system though as it works perfectly but just got miles more electric than we need and was thinking of moving it to where I could use it, but it's this difference between lead and lithium that's foxing me.
I did as you are thinking with ours, switch was suggested by uncle Lenny.
Now have spare 340watts going to power bank so on sunny days all topped back up. Benefits are you have to potts to take from over the fixed litheum in van option

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