Dead locks for Hymer

[Stewart J]

And if your going for the chrome collars these are the industrial strength adhesive pads I used. On my BDL habitation door there is a slight bevel these pads being 1mm thick compensate for this.

 

[Xabia]

Many thanks Stewart.

 

[Stewart J]

View attachment 240445 Stewart, as your installation is much neater than mine could I have a link to the cap screws please.

I should add I cut the bolts to exact length so that a maximum of 1-2 mm of the bolt head projected beyond the chrome collar so not enough to grip and turn the bolt should a break in through a window occur. I secured the bolt into the latch knob with both a dab of threadlock and a locknut so no chance of loosening with use.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

covers I very carefully cut to suit

They are cut incredibly neat and it makes me wonder if I’ll achieve such a good finish.

 

[Stewart J]

They are cut incredibly neat and it makes me wonder if I’ll achieve such a good finish.

I used a Stanley knife with a new blade for each, time consuming but left neat edges.

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[Xabia]

Here is my solution to keeping the interior trim looking tidy after fitting deadlocks.

Thanks again Stewart for the heads up, now fitted copying your excellent method, finished off with a ‘key’ made from sawn off Allen key attached to a radiator key which works well. Mike

 

[Stewart J]

Thanks again Stewart for the heads up, now fitted copying your excellent method, finished off with a ‘key’ made from sawn off Allen key attached to a radiator key which works well. Mike

Nice one and looks very tidy.

 

[Stewart J]

Wife having seen your post wants me to make a couple of keys like yours so thanks for your take on it.

 

[Kirsten]

why do I keep reading this post as dreadlocks for Hymer? would look cool maybe

 

[Mr Mousy]

I'm going for the 'naked' look as I don't bother using the LHD drivers door...

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[Hettie's Crew]

Anybody got this type of of hab door and had the official Hymer lock fitted?
Right now I have no idea how to tackle it and would like to leave it neat and tidy afterwards

but have no idea what is behind the recess or what I should remove/cut out.
Photos would be good.

 

[Lenny HB]

They normally have a removable cover, never seen a Hymer without the cover before, in the recesses below the door lock there is normally a cover like this. Although ours is the Comfort door but our last van an Exsis had the same lock as yours but it still had the cover.

 

[Speve]

The recess below the handle is what you need to cut out to fit the lock I bought two Abus double locking dead bolt locks and fitted on our Exis i698 exactly the same door as yours when you get int the panel you’ll find a lock plate where the lock should be fitted. Sorry don’t have van now and never took any pictures. I found it easy to do but then I was a carpenter by trade and also did 14 years in home security work.
When you get the lock you are going to fit just mark around it on the panel and carefully cut it out with a Stanley knife that will give you a nice neat fit.

 

[Lenny HB]

Just poped the cover off mine so you can see what lies behind.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

I’ve emailed Hymer to see if there is a cover/fitting kit/panel or something so it looks good. With your type @Lenny HB I could modify the cover after the lock is fitted, like I plan to do with the driver/passenger door, as with @Stewart J.
I’d not bother than make a mess of it.

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[Lenny HB]

Do make sure you treat the edges of the cutout in the aluminium, both my previous Hymers had corrosion around the locks (Hymer fitted) that's why I haven't had them on this van.

My drivers door has a cover as well.

 

[Steve and Denise]

Do make sure you treat the edges of the cutout in the aluminium, both my previous Hymers had corrosion around the locks (Hymer fitted) that's why I haven't had them on this van.

My drivers door has a cover as well.

I was thinking of using a self etch primer on the cut edges (ally) and then a gloss on top and let it dry before fitting the barrel I may get some stainless outer bezels to finnish the job once I have the locks in my hand.

 

[Roger20]

ATTACH]243537[/ATTACH]

Anybody got this type of of hab door and had the official Hymer lock fitted?
Right now I have no idea how to tackle it and would like to leave it neat and tidy afterwards View attachment 241302 but have no idea what is behind the recess or what I should remove/cut out.
Photos would be good.

I want to do this as well. Took some pictures of a similar recess on another Hymer and then got a quote for Hymer parts price. The factory fitted price on the options list was £250 which I thought was steep but parts-only supply price is £327.12! My pictures don't show what is behind the recess but I assume this is how Hymer have fitted as part of an OE build so it might help a little. (@Hettie's Crew - if you take this further I would be interested to see whats behind)

 

[Roger20]

ATTACH]243537[/ATTACH] View attachment 243538 View attachment 243539


I want to do this as well. Took some pictures of a similar recess on another Hymer and then got a quote for Hymer parts price. The factory fitted price on the options list was £250 which I thought was steep but parts-only supply price is £327.12! My pictures don't show what is behind the recess but I assume this is how Hymer have fitted as part of an OE build so it might help a little. (@Hettie's Crew - if you take this further I would be interested to see whats behind)

Missed some more photos - will get to grips with posting eventually!

 

[Lenny HB]

ATTACH]243537[/ATTACH] View attachment 243538 View attachment 243539


I want to do this as well. Took some pictures of a similar recess on another Hymer and then got a quote for Hymer parts price. The factory fitted price on the options list was £250 which I thought was steep but parts-only supply price is £327.12! My pictures don't show what is behind the recess but I assume this is how Hymer have fitted as part of an OE build so it might help a little. (@Hettie's Crew - if you take this further I would be interested to see whats behind)

I posted photos eairler on the thread of what is behind the cover.

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[Hettie's Crew]

I’m sure the lock is the Abus 4010, now replaced by the 7010 and readily available on eBay for about £70. As @Lenny HB showed in his pictures there isn’t much behind there, other than the key hole to drill out. It looks as though I’ll have to bite the bullet and cut it out at some point. It looks like a spacer will be needed to pad the lock out to the correct depth. I’m thinking a block of wood to provide the depth, securely held in place by the key cylinder mounts and maybe glued also. The lock would then be mounted to the wooden block. From the photos it does look like it is just cut out and then edging trim applied to neaten it up.
A job for the future though, as I’m still sorting out the passenger/driver door deadlock with a much cheaper, though just as sturdy £6.99 deadlock off eBay. I’ll post pictures when I’ve done it.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Just thought I would post some pictures of my inexpensive solution to a deadlock on the passenger/driver door.
The lock, without cylinder, was £6.99 on eBay, it’s double throw and protrudes the same 20mm as the much more expensive Abus version. It’s very solid feeling and quite good quality. Same lock that @GWAYGWAY used.
I used alloy angle bar, off eBay, to fabricate the two brackets and used 4mm countersunk screws with nylock nuts to secure them in place to the existing mount holes.
To fabricate the extended knob I had to remove the turn knob from the lock, file the centre down to accept the head of a 6mm 100mm long threaded screw secured in place by a piece of drilled alloy bar, the sides of which are held by 5mm countersunk screws and nuts after drilling through and countersinking the rear of the knob.
The plastic knob is 6mm internal threaded right through and was about £4 for three off eBay via China. This is secured on the end of the 6mm threaded screw using a 6mm grub screw, again a few quid off eBay for five.
It’s at the stage where it works and I know it looks a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but I still need to shorten the 6mm screw, then cut out and fit the cover, hopefully so it looks as good as @Stewart J has done.
We’re off to France in a couple of days so it’ll have to wait until we get back.
I’ve not fitted a key cylinder yet as I’ve ordered the Abus 4010 lock unit that Hymer fit from Germany for the Habitation door and requested they supply an additional keyed alike cylinder, though it’s taking a long time.
I’ve gone for the Abus lock on the Hab door just because it’s the same size as the recess and I want it to look proper when it’s done like the one @Roger20 ’s post.
Total cost for the passenger door is about £30, the Abus 4010 for the Hab door is £50 for the lock, reduced from Abus Padlocks on line. The newer 7010 version is around £100. Don’t know how much the keyed alike cylinder will be yet.
I’ll post pictures of the finished passenger door lock after the France trip in a couple of months.

 

[Steve and Denise]

Nice work and saving a lot of money for your efforts.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

For anyone interested, abuspadlocksonline through MapUk are selling the ABUS 4010 Hymer lock in white for £32.26 right now.
It has been replaced by the 7010 so probably getting rid of old stock.

 

[Steve and Denise]

Just contacted them to order two (same keys) and the price went up to £47 each and they have to order them but still cheaper than Hymer

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[Hettie's Crew]

Just contacted them to order two (same keys) and the price went up to £47 each and they have to order them but still cheaper than Hymer

That’s what I’m paying because I ordered two keyed alike, very good price though.
I started as an order for one but with an extra keyed alike cylinder and they said it’s cheaper just to order two full locks keyed alike.

 

[Steve and Denise]

I should have added 3 weeks delivery but not in a rush.

 

[pandas]

Confused here, currently have the Fiamma swivel things which cover the locks but have now been told categorically for my new vehicle that providing I have a good intruder alarm system not to bother with additional locks. If somebody is determined to get into the vehicle, say the garage, they will try and crow bar the door off and damage not only the door but also the main vehicle body. Ditto the habitation door. So the least resistance = least damage as long as the alarms and immobiliser do their job. Presumably if somebody was wanting to steal the vehicle they would be less aggressive as they would want to preserve the integrity of the bodywork but the alarms/immobiliser would again kick in. Any views?

 

[Steve and Denise]

Ok the locks arrived for when we got home three weeks ago so I collected some other bits a couple of stainless plates I had laser cut to go behind the barrels.

Started to fit them yesterday measure twice etc.

I have used an Allen key for inside opening I shall make a couple of neat keys to go on the key rings.

Total cost £200.

 

[hilldweller]

>>> Dead locks for Hymer

For a second I read "dreadlocks for Hymer" and got the biggest grin on my face all day.

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