Cliffandger Grand Tour

[Mousy]

I can't believe you are letting this German invasion of your space go unchallenged!
I would at the very least expect an accidental soaking of that hammock with some of your grey waste..... Preferably when said German was in it.

Get your wind brakes out and section off that beach, get some British spirit behind you gal!

"We will fight them on the beaches" etc

 

[JockandRita]

I can't believe you are letting this German invasion of your space go unchallenged!
I would at the very least expect an accidental soaking of that hammock with some of your grey waste..... Preferably when said German was in it.

Get your wind brakes out and section off that beach, get some British spirit behind you gal!

"We will fight them on the beaches" etc

I didn't like to say it myself Dawn, but you are absolutely right, and it will be better accepted coming from you.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[cliffanger]

Hello all- Internet was rubbish yesterday, so not able to post - we've moved on and are now in Senj, and this is the view from our pitch......

We cycled to the Paklenica National Park yesterday which was lovely. The weather was a little cooler so after a 3km cycle ride we parked the bikes and walked up to a height of 400m. The first stop was a system of bunkers which Tito and then the Yugoslav federal army used, but it's been completely renovated and there is now - as is usual here - no mention of Tito or the YFA.

It is now an education and conference centre. We walked around it anyway, and encountered the extremely rare.....

'Lesser Spotted EMPTY Souvenir Shop'!

Walking on through many tunnels we came into the education centre, with lots of lovely pictures that the children had drawn on the customary field trip....

The CORRECT way to draw the famous Mirila - full marks!

I bet the teachers had a good laugh in the staff room.......

The park is a mecca for maniacs with suicidal tendencies - aka rock climbers! As we walked up the path we could see them dotted around all over the place - many hanging on limpet like to the sheer rock face, but just as many standing on the ground untangling ropes!

These photos are 'Where's Wally' rock climbing style.....

Bags me 'rope untangling monitor'!

There are bears, Chamois, Wild boar, bats, eagles, wolves, falcons and vultures in the park, but we didn't see any - we did see some livestock though......

There's a Shepherd's Hut that is much higher up the mountain, and it's basic facilities are free. All it says for the weary traveller to bring is a sleeping bag. I hope the 'porters' got a decent tip from this lot!

We reached the top and had a well earned Pivo in the woodman's cottage, before walking back down, marvelling at the gorge as we went. As locals to the famous Cheddar Gorge, you can't help thinking they should do the same thing, ie rewarding climbers with beer, soft drinks and hearty sausage stew at the top, or even halfway way up, but believe me - we've climbed it - and its a very lonely place at the top! Unlike at the bottom, where you can't move for sweet shops, cheese shops, chippies and Japanese/Chinese tourists!

After drinking the cooling beer, I had to stop off in the 'little girls room' and I had my first experience of the 'long drop, composter toilet'

There are many, many routes to climb Anica Kuk, all with very interesting names.....

But I bet most of us girls would give no, 1 a miss.....

Part 2 coming up - with an ending that will make you all proud of us.......

 

[cliffanger]

Oh and as a PS to part 1, and the last photo, Cliff said 'it obviously means you can climb it any way you want to........'.

We may not have seen A bear, or a wolf, or a Chamois, or any species of Eagle, falcon or bat, but look at this big bugger.....

Well, after our day out in the national park, we cycled back to the site, where 'The Family from Hell' were making plans for total Camp Paklenica Domination, and spent the evening very enjoyably..... But more of that later!

The weather took yet another down turn this morning and we decided to move on. We had spotted the 'Kamping' at Senj, and made a note to stop on the way back up. Is a lovely spot, more of an Aires than a site, but yet again with free WiFi. The sun has come out and we are now sat chilling, looking out to sea and Krk Island in the distance.

We walked around the little seaside village of Senj, which is VERY old. In the 16th century it became a base for the Uskoks, Croats driven from their homes by the Ottoman invasion. They became a feared fighting force, harassing both Turkish and Venetian vessels with their own pirate fleet, painted red and black - the colours of blood and death! I tell you, we thought we had it bad - never mind the Uskoks!! (Sorry, couldn't resist that)

The town has its fair share of Obe Wans, cafes and souvenir shops, but also very old buildings, mostly derelict, but still habitated!

Now that's what you call a window box!

They may have had a violent past, but the good people of Senj are much 'smilier' these days..

Although the graffiti still shows signs of the malcontent and miscreant Uskoks.....

And if the kneeling spots on the Confessional are anything to go by.....

They're obviously still a rascally lot!

Well, I'll finish for now as I have a chicken curry to make for tea, but not before I say how we spent our last night at Camp Paklenica....

The night before produced an absolutely stunning sunset....

Last night's was not as good, but we still enjoyed a beautiful sky....

........ But not before.....

 

[cliffanger]

With table, chairs, and a REALLY smokey barbecue - WE RECLAIMED THE BEACH in the name of Britisher Campers Everywhere!!!!!!

We started off, by tentatively setting up behind the tree, with Grandpa digging his heels in......

But by throwing on some particularly fatty burgers, we smoked him out and established a beach head right by the sea!!!

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[32143]

G

With table, chairs, and a REALLY smokey barbecue - WE RECLAIMED THE BEACH in the name of Britisher Campers Everywhere!!!!!!
View attachment 109057

We started off, by tentatively setting up behind the tree, with Grandpa digging his heels in......
View attachment 109058

But by throwing on some particularly fatty burgers, we smoked him out and established a beach head right by the sea!!!
View attachment 109059

Ha ha, good on you
Loving your blog and pics.
I know you don't have a dog, but do by chance know if the beach sites you have been using allow dogs?

Lin

 

[cliffanger]

Cliff's just caught up with this thread and pointed out my abysmal observational skills - 'they weren't Germans, they were Austrian!!'. My observational faux pas aside - 'expansion' - mentioning no names - I rest my case your honour!!

 

[Fenman]

That climb number one is correctly named as if I even tried it I'd be completely f****d in any position.
As for the nutters clinging to the cliff face you could not pay me enough to even stand on the top of the cliff.
Thanks for all the story it's a joy to read.

 

[cliffanger]

G
Ha ha, good on you
Loving your blog and pics.
I know you don't have a dog, but do by chance know if the beach sites you have been using allow dogs?

Lin

Hi Lin,

We've used ACSI sites all around Croatia, so if you have the book you can see which ones allow dogs. I think we've seen dogs in every site we've been on, and they seem to be welcome in the national parks we've visited, but I've seen a couple of beaches with the usual ban on dogs - can't remember which ones though. Hope alls well with you two and hope to meet up soon xx

 

[32143]

Hi Lin,

We've used ACSI sites all around Croatia, so if you have the book you can see which ones allow dogs. I think we've seen dogs in every site we've been on, and they seem to be welcome in the national parks we've visited, but I've seen a couple of beaches with the usual ban on dogs - can't remember which ones though. Hope alls well with you two and hope to meet up soon xx

Thank you, we have the ACSI books will go through them and cross reference to your blog
We are stuck close to home for next few months, but hopefully after that back on our travels so I'm sure our paths will cross again x

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[Anthea M]

Thanks for a wonderfully funny entertaining and information packed blog!! Love the photos too! Safe travels !
" Fight them on the beaches" and they turned out yo be Austrians !! Hilarious !

 

[cliffanger]

Hello all, we are now sat on our pitch at Camping Marina, Labin, in the late aftenoon sunshine having moved on from Senj and back into Istria yesterday, stopping overnight in Lovran.

The camperstop at Senj was very nice, but we were parked up right next to the restaurant and the owner and staff were obviously discussing the nights takings (or lack of them) until 3.00am and gone!

We drove back up through Rijeka and around to Lovran, where we had seen the beautiful faded villas on the way down, so I was keen to stop and have a look around, We arrived at the site and checked in, only to meet up with Caron and Michael, the Dutch couple we had met at The Bates Motel in Krka! We pitched up next to them and caught up over a beer, before unhitching the bikes and taking our lives in our hands, cycled down the road and into Lovran. The villas really are beautiful in a dilapidated sort of way and the whole coastline must have been buzzing in the late 1800s. Apparently anyone who was anyone had to be seen there, including kings from Romania and Sweden, Russian tsars and celebrities of the day.

The whole waterfront is connected by a promenade with steps down into the water in sheltered coves and huge 'rock pool' natural swimming pools - it was beautiful and I loved it. Cliff being Cliff couldn't see the faded elegance like what I could and continually bemoaned the lack of public loos (what did I tell you girls......)

I think I took a photo of the only awful villa, and the only terrible bit of the promenade.....!

My photo opportunities were interrupted by the need to find a loo, so I apologise for not giving you the sense of faded beauty that is so evident here, but even this beautiful boulevard can't escape the graffiti that seems endemic here - and there's usually a common theme....

We continued walking until we got to a little harbour between Lovran and Opatija. Wandering up a little lane behind the promenade, I spotted a little house with some wooden statues in the garden, I walked up to take a closer look......

I wonder if the home owner is any relation to the old man of 'Christian Konoba'...!

We cycled back up the hill and spent the evening with Caron and Michael - sharing our barby and beers, wines and their excellent coffee. I gave them a MHF card, and as Michael went straight onto Internet and was reading the forum, he was chuckling to himself, so I think we may have a contingent from South West Holland soon! He has one of those big trike thingys, so he has something in common with a few Funsters besides a MH already!

A lovely couple - he's a coin collector/seller with a passion for motorbikes, and Caron is a carer in a residential home for people with physical and sensory disabilites. They have a Hymer not much longer than ours but with the all important 'man cave'! Cliff was as usual very impressed - but it went straight over my head! Michael said that while they are both still working their van is Sorned for three quarters of the year, as the cost of yearly Road tax for their van is €900! They only use it for three months of the year, so costing them €225. That's more than it costs us to tax ours for the whole year!

We realised it was getting a bit chilly - looked at our watches and it was 1.00am! The evening had just flown by, listening to tales of wildcamping in the Arctic Circle, in shorts, plastered in mosquito repellent, and getting the nod on which coins to buy or not to buy - Michael is also a vintage whisky collector - he didn't give us his address - a VERY wise man...
@Mousy - he has tasted Penderyn - and likes it very much!

We've just returned from a wonderful meal at the Obe Wan outside the campsite - pork kebabs and chips for me, and grilled Calamari and spinach and potato mash for him. With half a litre of wine = £20! I have another cooking style to add to my repertoire after tonight:

1. Cover plate with garlic infused extra virgin olive oil.
2. Place cooked food on top of oil.
3. Sit back and let the oil soak into whatever you're eating.

Result = heaven on a plate!

Hopefully the sun will be out again tomorrow - so we will be chilling!

Much love to all my readers xx

 

[Anthea M]

Laughed at those carved statues!! Life size carvings!! lOL!!

 

[DBK]

I believe the phrase in the US porn business for male actors is "make wood". Those statues could earn a fortune over there. Available 24/7.

 

[Mousy]

Guess that's what they call good wood!?

The water looks very inviting Ger, no bikini shots?...of Cliff

Thanks for taking the time to share your trip with us, loving it xx

P.s why are all the restaurants star war themed? Was it filmed there?

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[cliffanger]

@Mousy - no don't think Star Wars was filmed here - although all over Paklenica National Park, there are references to the film 'Vinnetou', a western that looks mysteriously like the Lone Ranger in his heyday, that was filmed there.... I shall be rushing down to our local Blockbuster video shop to rent it out as soon as we get home...

No - Obe Wan is our pathetic pun for the 'Traditional Family Owned Rustic Restaurants' that are found all over Croatia - otherwise known as 'Konobas' - geddit? xx

 

[cliffanger]

Spent today chillin, but unfortunately not on the beach! The sun stayed behind the clouds all day, so much so that desperation set in, we hooked up the laptop, switched on Film On and watched the Scot get beaten by the Serb! We were careful to turn the volume down when they played the Serbian National Anthem though......

When the match ended the sun came out and we walked down into the harbour next to the site, stopping by the pizzeria on the way home and ordering a Messicana and a Rustica - we know how to live!

All pizzas here are cooked in wood fired ovens, which means the tops aren't as well done as back home - strange at first, but it means you can add rocket leaves and chopped tomatoes, which is delicious. They look insipid, but they taste lovely!

The Messicana, and

The Rustica.

We passed on the frozen yoghurt though......

Off to the Deep South of Istria tomorrow - for the start of our last 10 days in Croatia before we start the quick hop, skip and jump through Northern Europe, which I hope will have dried out a bit for our trip up!

 

[Mousy]

Mmmm they look lovely, sure you didn't fancy some slag for afters?

 

[Just smiffy]

Mmmm they look lovely, sure you didn't fancy some slag for afters?

I had some slag once..... It didn't last long......

 

[cliffanger]

Mmmm they look lovely, sure you didn't fancy some slag for afters?

I wasn't having any old slag in my van - all three looked well past their sell by date.....

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[cliffanger]

Hello all. We are now ensconced in the far south of Istria in Camping Indiji. It's a very shady site (which I find a little depressing) but must be a welcome relief on the desert hot days of high summer!

The small enclave to the left of the van is our illicit BBQ hideout - charcoal barbys are outlawed over much of Europe - but as long as there are no fatty burgers cooking, we escape the long arm of the camp Kommandant!

We hope to stay here for a few days, cycling into Medulin and Banjole, and bussing it into Pula, which has a wealth of ancient Roman ruins including an almost intact amphitheatre, which we will be visiting tomorrow afternoon after spending the morning on the (very rocky) beach.

We left Labin this morning and as usual drove straight through what looked like a really interesting town - quickly scanning through the guide book I endeavoured to awake a little interest in him, to get him to stop and look.... 'It's the jewel of Western Istria....' Says I..... 'I've'eard that before.....' Says he - still a tad upset that we had to retrace our route back down a single lane track for 2 kms because the campsite receptionist - NOT ME FUNSTERS - I repeat - the campsite receptionist had forgotten to give me our passports and ACSI card back on payment of our bill!

I tried REALLY hard, and succesfully refrained from saying that it was just as well I remembered THE RECEPTIONIST'S mistake and that we had already retraced our route and picked up the passports and ACSI card, so we only had to pass this big bugger once!

A stoney silence ensued and I missed what looked like a very interesting guided tour, led by a man in a reflective jacket - which seemed to include lots of ice cream..

And I suppose once you've seen one Old Town you've seen them all

And on the way out we saw this beautiful creature - who was very feisty and almost too big to handle! Amazing how misty eyed you can get over a cow when you've seen no animals grazing for a month!

Now I'm going into serious Muse musings mode now and I hope you'll endulge me in this....

This time 25 years ago, I was in the throes of a (not very painful I have to admit) labour and six hours later 'Our Little'un' arrived on the scene - I texted him tonight and said ' this time 25 years ago, I was wheeled into the labour ward where I expected to give birth to a baby girl who would be called Emily.....' He hasn't answered the text as yet..... Happy Birthday Rob xx (he takes after his father - Catie his girlfriend takes all the photos!)

 

[cliffanger]

@Mousy - Dawn, it's out, packed and ready for its maiden voyage!

 

[Granjan]

He still looks a bit grumpy!

 

[Anthea M]

He still looks a bit grumpy!

They've stolen his golf clubs and left some beach stuff which is why!!

 

[Mousy]

Happy birthday our little un.


Cart looks good, but I can just hear Martin now "we don't need one of those our life is complete etc"

However, there is a second hand golf equipment shop near us, I'm keeping my eye out for a old trolley

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[cliffanger]

It went down a mountain and up a mountain, over rough terrain and performed beautifully!

 

[cliffanger]

Went swimming here today....

Happily splashing about when I glanced to the shore and got an eyeful of a German Bratwurst and two dumplings roasting in the sunshine!

 

[cliffanger]

Well you lot - nuffins appened sept sunshine! We got up yesterday and went down to the beautiful rocky beach, stayed there for a couple of hours, swimming and espying German sausage and two dumplings, and then cycling to Pula, or at least two thirds of the way to Pula, before we acknowledged that we were too keen on staying alive, cycled back to Banjole and caught the bus into Pula!

Croatia really needs to sort out its cars/lorries/crap drivers -v- cyclists! Every campsite offers 'cycling into the town/city' and it's an absolute joke - no pavements or cycle lanes, just drivers that feel it's beneath them to give cyclists any clearance whatsoever, and why just drive when you can talk/text/do whatever on your phone! Rant over....

We arrived in Pula after the longest, scenic route I've ever taken on a bus - you cycle 2 kilometres from your chosen campsite - wait at a bus stop on the wrong side of the road to where you want to go - bus comes along and picks you up, drives you through three resorts showing you the campsites you COULD have stayed in, every one of which looks better than the one you picked..... Before dropping you off on Pula - all for K1.50 each!

We walked through the town centre looking for the Arena, which we had been told was the 6th biggest and most intact amphitheatre in the world..... Now I don't know about the biggest, but I am sure that the Arena in Nimes is far more intact than this one!

Not sure what happened to the 'panoramic' button on my camera, but it seems to have gone into 'sepia' mode.....

Before we found the Arena, and whilst walking through the old town - a funny thing happened on the way to the forum..... Or in our case when we got there........

Who should we bump into but Paul @SMB!!! We stopped for a chat (I still can't believe we didn't adjourn to a bar for a drink - but for once in my life the thought didn't cross my mind....) - sorry Paul, but will catch up at Malvern!

After a walk around the town and the obligatory ice cream - you really have to try the Jaffa Cake flavour if you're ever down this way - we caught the bus back, picked up the bikes and peddled the 2 kilometres back to the site.

Today was a lazy day - sunbathing outside the van and then wandering down for a swim. Fortunately the beachside German sausage and dumplings were kept inside the Speedos today - although the couple in the van opposite are very partial to changing in their awning in full view of us, so we get a view of melons, sausages and dumplings and two full moons at least twice a day whether we want it or not!

I forgot to pack the snorkel gear and Cliff left the noodles at home so on our cycle ride into Banjole today we splashed out on some holiday necessities - the task was very arduous, so we had to stop in the marina bar for two large beers on the way back.....

I'm not altogether sure he's grasped the concept of 'noodling' Dawn @Mousy...

And he's definitely not making friends with the neighbours....

So it's just as well we don't have any close ones.....

Tomorrow's another day - hopefully full of sunshine - and nuffin much to do........

 

[Mr Mousy]

I'm loving you updates - just brilliant writing!

 

[JockandRita]

I'm loving you updates - just brilliant writing!

Same thoughts here.

Back home, it appears that folks are more interested in hearing about our time in Croatia, than our time in Italy. We loved it.

@cliffandger, when are you heading back home?

Cheers for now,

Jock & Rita.

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