90 Days in Turkey Spring 2022

[frwjd]

Day 121
Monday 7th March
Good morning!
We were up at 8am and on the road at ten past! We've just headed a little further along the coast to get a full sea view for breakfast
It's a grey start to the day but 18C forecast with an occasional shower.
Another gorgeous drive along the Turquoise Coast will take us to Antalya by lunchtime.
Have a good day!

Just realised it's our 50th day outside Schengen!
There aren't any decent restaurants around us so we're getting a good scrub then heading to downtown Antalya to celebtrate!
(any excuse!)
Any reccos for restaurants? Just remember we're 3 hours ahead of the UK so best be quick

Our breakfast view ....

 

[frwjd]

Tuesday 8th March
Good morning!
17C with scattered showers is today's forecast.
We enjoyed our short visit to Antalya old town, a few snaps below, shame the light was fading. We'll be staying here for a couple of days as we have a few jobs to do.

Day 122
We dropped some laundry off this morning - or at least we TRIED to! We followed the directions on the app but couldn't see the shop despite the app telling us we were on top of it.
No parking to be had anywhere so I manhandled the loaded bags along the street while John drove in ever decreasing circles one step ahead of a police car!
I asked numerous people if they knew where the laundry was but was either totally ignored or told with an apologetic smile "Sorry, no English". I struggled along the pavement for about 100 yards before accepting that the app saying it was on this side of the road didn't actually mean that it WAS!
I managed to get across the 4 lane road to the other pavement by the skin of my teeth and with a lot of honking of horns I started to
retrace my steps along the shops on that side..
Found it! I struggled up the steps to where a woman was ironing in the shop window. John had written out in Turkish for me "Good morning, I would like this laundry washed, dried and ironed." The lady read it and then looked at the bags of washing at my feet - and giggled.
She spoke to me in Turkish - which of course I understood as much as she understood my English. Picked up a couple of items from my bags and giggled again! Then spoke over her shoulder, beckoning me forward.
Round the corner was her teenage son - books spread over the table as he studied. He came round and offered me a small bow then read the note - and giggled!
He asked me something in Turkish then got his phone and typed it into Google Translate "You are our guest and we do not mean to disrespect you but we cannot help." I sighed and smiled at them as I thanked them and picked the bags up - I assumed they were telling me they were too busy.
The lady spoke to him again and tugged my arm. They both giggled again. She mimed running water and scrubbing with her hands and then waved at the clothes shaking her head. Then she waved her hand around the shop. I looked at all the clothes hung around her ironing board - coats, jackets, more coats, more jackets. The awful truth hit me - this wasn't a laundry - it was a dry cleaners!
I burst out laughing - so did they! I apologised and got hold of the bags again but was stopped as they chattered to each other. Google translate told me via the son that as it was Women's Day and I was a guest in their country so his Mum wanted to do my washing for me at her house. They wouldn't take No for an answer and we have to go back for it at 8pm tomorrow night. How kind is that!
I left - embarrassed - and headed back to John who was still manfully driving round and round the block - I'd been gone for about three-quarters of an hour! He thought I'd either been run over, got lost or been arrested!
Laundry dealt with - sort of - we moved on to Job 2.
As Turkey has cheap labour rates, we had planned on taking Dippy for some maintenance and preventative maintenance to be done on this trip.
After John had done some research we turned up at Sahil Karavans without an appointment and asked if they were available to do some work for us. Their first question? Have you eaten? 2nd question? Would you like tea? 3rd question? Please park here, what needs doing? 4th question? Would you like to sit with your tea while we work?
We hadn't been prepared for them to do the work today but Wow! A quick think and we decided to go sightseeing while they cracked on. We asked for the number for a taxi - their friend Ozzie would take us! 20 minutes later we were being dropped at Hadrian's Gate in the Old Town.
A group of policemen and their motorbikes were congregating on the pavement and I nudged John - "I wonder what's going on?" As we watched they lined up for a tourist to take a photo!
The next thing I know, one of them has taken my arm and pulled me into the lineup! Before you could say -"You're under arrest!" I've been handed down the line as if we're playing "Pass the parcel" and have 2 coppers with their arms round me telling me to smile! John was in fits of laughter!
We carried on into the town centre where John had an old fashioned shoe shine! The shiner tells us he has done the job in the same spot for 20 years and his Father did it before him - the beautiful work box that John had his foot on had belonged to him and was handed down! His Grandfather had started this family tradition 50 years ago.
We moved on and wandered down to the sea wall for photos across the sea and of the rocky cliffs on the other side. It was busy but not excessively so.
We checked out menus as we walked - there was an outstanding display of fish outside one restaurant - with a whole octopus as the centrepiece! Stunning! We're pressured by the owner to come in but aren't ready yet so carry on, telling him we'll be back.
We did go back and were again pressured by the owner despite already being seated and studying menus. He wants us to choose the fish but when we ask the price he says we choose first and he will prepare it and then tell us the cost. Too risky - we could be under an obligation to pay more than we're prepared to if we do that, so we refuse and choose chicken shish for me and kofte for John.
My chicken was gristly, the broccoli - for both of us - was uncooked, the rice lukewarm but John's meatballs were ok. A disappointing meal though.
A quick text to the taxi man - Ozzie - and we're back with Dippy in record time. The jobs are going well and will be finished tomorrow. We're told we can stay on their carpark for free and with electric hookup and WiFi, if we want to! We're picking at Pistacchio Halva as I write this, and John's waiting for football! It's been another good day!

 

[frwjd]

Day 123
Wednesday 9th March
Good morning!
Not as warm today, just 14C.
Last night's pitch was on the garage forecourt but was peaceful enough.
We'll be hanging around here until their work is finished then off to collect the laundry
We enjoyed yesterdays walk around Antalya old town, some snaps below.

Day 123
We woke on the forecourt of Sahil Karavans just before the workforce started arriving at 8.30. Dippy had a long day of work ahead of her and we needed to be out from under everyone's feet.
Breakfast done and dusted in record time we ventured out onto the forecourt where work was starting on one of the vehicles already. Two ginger cats wearing identical red collars sat on a table washing their paws, an empty food bowl on the ground beneath them.
One of the workers got to grips with Dippy's grimy bodywork with a bucket of sudsy water, ready to start putting her decals on. Another was leaning ladders against her ready to get up on the roof, while a third attended to some newly arrived customers.
The new customers were already known here - a German couple in a big converted Iveco van They had a black silhouette map of the world decal on the side that John admired Before I knew it he was measuring up to see if Dippy could have one squeezed in!
We chatted to them in broken English/German and they invited us into their motorhome for a glimpse and we reciprocated by inviting them to see Dippy's interior. They were very interested in "Travels" and our Facebook page and had lots of questions for us.
We knew that today would be very full on as there was a lot to achieve, so when it was suggested that we might go back to see some more of the town we jumped at the chance! Ozzie's taxi was summoned and off we sped.
We started at Hadrian's Gate again and turned in the opposite direction to yesterday. Within a few minutes we were hailed by another boot shine man! We refused his offer of a shine as we'd had ours done yesterday - but he pointed to the tiniest smudge on John's shoe - then, when he looked down at it, he swiped at it with a massive black blob of polish!
There was nothing for it but to let him clean it off! John was very restrained considering we'd refused him in the first place! Until he tried to charge John 20 Euros - £16.81! John refused point blank and told him repeatedly that we didn't have Euros only Turkish Lira.
The sullen look on the man's face as he kept repeating 20 Euros was incredible! John offered him 100TL but he refused - how can he feed his family on that, he told us! John waved the money at him and told him to take it or leave it - he took it!
We refused to let it spoil our walk, and turned the opposite way to yesterday's stroll. This was definitely not touristy at all. We walked past ordinary shops that we would have seen in any small town in England.
One shop sold spices, baskets heaped with them spilling out onto the pavement. The smells were pungent - cumin and turmeric, garlic, and something I couldn't identify. The shop front opposite was hung around with the wooden skeletons of guitars and mandolins, inside were drums and other instruments.
An art shop was selling all sorts of paintings and prints. Several were in the "crying child" style of the 1970's artist, Carlo Parisi. The shop smelled musty as we passed it.Two butchers were almost next door to each other - the smell here was raw, bloody meat. The next shop sold soaps and body lotions and the smell quickly overpowered the smell from the butcher's.
Baskets of loose beads and little trinkets for making necklaces and bracelets filled the window of one shop whilst next door the results of buying the beads were hung in displays of cheap jewellery.
From an open doorway came the sounds of hesitant piano playing and then a man's voice. An instant later the piano played the correct notes in the correct order - this time the man sounded pleased piano lessons!
We stopped for chiy at one of the many street cafe's. The table next to us was occupied by 5 giggling teenagers eating lunch. When they left they had to pool the contents of their purses to pay the bill.
We wandered along until we found the goal for today's lunch - Arab'in Yeri. It was tucked away up a little side street and was tiny, just enough space inside for the fryer and a worktop and till! There was 1 table in the window and all the rest were out in the street. We ordered meat Kebabs which were absolutely delicious!
Whilst there, I asked to use the toilet. I was taken from our outside table in to the back of the room and shown a loft ladder going up into the ceiling! I climbed up, and the lady showing me climbed up behind me - probably to break my fall in the event of a disaster!
I emerged upstairs in a storage attic and was waved over to a small toilet in the corner of the roof. Small - and immaculately clean! Having - used the facilities - I descended the ladder to be met by the lady rushing over to make sure I made it in one piece!
It was an interesting experience - and not for the faint hearted or anyone concerned by heights! As I walked away, the lady, the girl helping wash up and the cook - gave me a little round of applause! The cook added a "Better?" as I passed him! The equivalent, I suppose of a chorus of " We know what you've been doing!"
We were back in record time to be met by Ozzie and his taxi again and returned to a freshened up Dippy in the final stages of having sealant round her skylight and a new handle on the drain.
Next stop - collecting the laundry. We found the shop we'd used but couldn't get my call to go through - the arrangement had been that I would ring them at 8pm and they would be there to hand the laundry over. I tried a few times and I know it was the right number as it was on their receipt - but no joy.
So, that's tomorrow's job!

 

[frwjd]

Dippy III is having a bit of a pamper. During last week's horrendous storm we noticed a tiny drip of water from the large skylight.
Whilst investigating at a repair shop yesterday it was clear that a lot of the sealant on the roof was in poor condition so it's all being stripped back and resealed.
I pulled the handle off the habitation door so the inner door skin has been removed and the handle fixed in place.
We've had garrison plates fitted to the cab doors ( our supply ).
The fridge had stopped working on gas, failing to light.
At long last our new decals have been fitted front, back and wing mirrors.
Like others our waste water pipe is a nuisance so that's being repaired.
Three windows being removed, cleaned and refitted.
It's a lot of work but it's all labour and that's very cheap hereabouts.
Total cost 8,500tl which at today's exchange rate is £450.50.
An absolute bargain and keeps Dippy in tip top condition, when she's had a wash!

 

[frwjd]

Day 124
Thursday 10th March
Good morning!
Dippy is feeling wonderful and cared for after having her bits fettled at Sahil Karavan
Only 13C and even colder in the days ahead
Jobs for today, retrieve the laundry, shopping and plan our route and sightseeing for the next week or two.

Day 124
Today's mission was to collect our errant laundry! Breakfast eaten and handfuls of pills popped we set off.
I entered the shop to find the kind dry cleaning lady who'd offered to do our washing for us was waiting for me with a wagging finger - and a big smile!
Her son popped out from the cubbyhole where he was still up to his eyes in text books - "You didn't come!" I handed his Mum the African Violet pot plant I'd bought for her last night and also the note that John had scribed in Turkish for me, explaining what had happened!
While she read it I explained to her son that Dippy had been in the garage and we hadn't been finished there until very late. I showed him my phone , with the call record showing that I'd tried phoning but it hadn't gone through.
He looked sceptical so I pressed re-dial and it refused to work! A quick Google translate from him suggested that as my phone was UK maybe it didn't work for Turkey - he was right! To avoid roaming fees I'd kept my monthly limit at it's UK maximum of £20 which of course - was already used up!
Mum by this time was giggling and showed him the note as she gave me a big hug for the plant. He read it and giggled too! It must run in the family!
Mum waved at the row of freshly washed, dried and ironed clothing hanging on a rail and at the stack of bedding, towels, socks and underwear in neatly folded bags on the floor. Fantastic!
The cost? 300 TL. I picked up the first bag and Mum asked a question - Where was the motorhome - how far away? I explained with hand gestures that the motorhome was circling the roads with a policeman hot on John's tail telling him "No parking! No parking!" More giggles from both of them.
Son scooped up the heaviest items and carried them to the kerb for me, Mum waving and calling Goodbye from the door. He looked up and down the street, but Dippy was nowhere in sight.
I told him firmly that he and his Mum had been very kind but he must go back and study some more. "I will be Doctor!" he told me proudly as he put the bags on the bonnet of a battered red car with no wheels. "Our car, you no get trouble with put here!"
5 long minutes later John hove in sight and managed to pull up next to me long enough for me to scramble through the habitation door and pile things on the bed as neatly as possible.
Next stop - Migros! Sat Nav took us there no problem, but it was too tight for parking so we carried on to another one instead. As we left the store an English voice said "Good morning" and when we responded in English the young man asked if Dippy was ours?
A few minutes later he had the lowdown on our travels and was wishing us good luck as he told John his Uncle used to own a pub in John's home town of Blackburn! Isn't life strange!
We got home and put the shopping and the clothes away - finding that even our underwear and socks had been ironed! I can honestly say I have never done that!
John checked his phone and told me that today, here in Antalya, the first high level peace talks were underway between Ukraine and Russia. I doubt it will happen overnight, but our thoughts are with all concerned for a successful and peaceful resolution.
We've ended tonight with a lovely meal at the Sota Eat & Drink, just yards from where we're parked. Delicious!

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[busby]

What a fantastic post,,,Nice to read of positive happy people who are really enjoying their travels...Carry on with this fantastic post..BUSBY.

 

[3DOM]

Thanks for posting your travels and adventures,
a really enjoyable read.

 

[nicholsong]

I am following your wonderful stories - they all equate with my experience of Turkey.

I can fully believe your story from Day 123 about the shoe-shine man as I worked in Antalya for a month in 1991. They are all touting for business and even the shopkeepers on the street running down from the taxi station, who we told to get lost every evening we went to dinner, would still try it for all the evenings thereafter.

About touting I do notice a difference between Turkey, where they will follow you down the street past their competitors, and Greece, where there seems to be an unwritten rule that once you have passed the boundary of their shop they stop, then it is the neighbour's turn.

You are right about the labour rates being cheap and there are some good craftsmen. Of course the TKL having devalued a lot recently helps.

Please keep the excellent posts going.

Geoff

 

[paddymcc]

So much enjoying your posts. Thank you.

 

[frwjd]

Day 125
Friday 11th March
Good morning!
It's a bright enough start to the day but the forecast for this weekend is temperatures in single figures and winds 30mph + .
We're leaving Antalya today and will be visiting Perge, Aspendos and Side this weekend as we head towards Alanya
First we must return to Sahil Karavan for a special delivery.
All will be revealed later. .

Day 125
I watched the morning yoga session empty out of the Gym opposite us as I washed the dishes this morning prior to leaving our car park in Antalya.
We're off to Kanuni today via Sahil Karavans for the new decal that John fancied for Dippy! We sailed through the morning traffic - which seemed a little heavier than usual - and arrived in good time.
While the work got underway I watched a motor scooter approach, the 2 men riding it laughing and chatting, the driver expertly flings a bag of rubbish into the skip they're passing without slowing down and they both laugh. The passenger is clutching a bicycle wheel and as they pass me a gust of wind wrenches his baseball cap off and flings it to the ground. He ran back to get it, laughing.
The decal is now in place but while they're working the men notice a broken indicator cover and hunt for one to replace it. They try a few, but like Cinderella's slipper they can't get a good fit! They tell John that they'll order it for us and we can come back at some point to have it fitted.
In no time at all, we're back on the D400 and passing the more upmarket section of Antalya - posh hotels and more affluent accommodation and shops. We pass an Army Barracks to our left with armed soldiers on guard at the entrance.
My attention is suddenly caught by some giant sized dinosaurs and I turn my head to look, assuming it to be another Play Park for children. No - it's an outlet selling Giant sized dinosaurs - every home should have one! Outdo the neighbours who only have a garden gnome with a fishing rod!
John draws my attention to the fact that the speed notification sign we've just passed was for 82km ph! Not exactly what you'd be expecting! We're being buffeted by 30 miles an hour winds at this point too. I'm glad I don't drive.
I spot a banner for something we've seen advertised in a few places recently, for something called "Re-coding Diplomacy" which is a platform for debate on global and regional issues and will be hosted by the President of Turkey. It will bring together Heads of States and Governments, Ministers, policy makers, diplomats, business leaders, academics, representatives of think tanks, youth organisations and media from Turkey and around the world. It's from March 11-13th. Now! Here in Antalya!
Within minutes we pass a police car parked up with officers on the pavement. Then every 100 yards an officer on the kerb, both side of the main road.
Then there's a parked giant tour bus with 20-30 officers spilling out, all armed, all with body armour. One of them crosses the road with a giant tray containing glasses of steaming chiy. A delivery motor scooter has stopped and is handing out takeaways to a queue of officers.
This continues for a few miles. Every petrol station, every corner, outside a garden centre, a retail park - everywhere! What's going on?
We turn off of the main road and go through some small villages. The Call to Prayer has just sounded and we see several men begin to kneel on the grass outside a mosque - is it full - or closed?
We pass more polytunnels - haven't seen any for a few days! Children are leaving school for lunchtime. Then we pop out of the scattered houses and are surrounded on 3 sides by open flat plains, some dry, some flooded. A solitary stork steps daintily along the water's edge.
The plains give way to a road with manicured grass along one side - golf course! A couple of golf buggies are speeding along on the other side of the fence.
Our destination looms up in front of us - a car park near the sea, with just a few motorhomes and caravans in it - they look as if they may be long term residents by the set up. There's a small toilet block and a mass of washing up posts with open air BBQ's scattered around. There is also a small mosque - just 2 rooms, one for men and one for women, with prayer mats in place. What a good idea!
Having checked it out we decide to head for a Migros for supplies - back the way we came. We're soon stopped by armed Police as they block the road. We've managed to arrive at what looks like the venue for the "Recoding Diplomacy" meeting!
We've noticed parked ambulances along both sides of the road as we came along - just waiting - just in case! Plain clothes officers with earpieces and guns at their hips join the machine gun toting officers in stab vests and full face masks under helmets. We're just having to wait while things are put in place and cars with flags and darkened windows follow motorcycle police along the road.
A huge Mercedes sneaks carefully around us and edges in front of us. The darkened window lowers a little and a hand beckons a policeman over. He speaks through the window to the dark shadow within the car and firmly shakes his head - NO! He marches off and the car has to wait.
John and I take bets on the conversation between them -
Police man -" No, you will have to wait!"
Driver - "Do you know who I am?"
Policeman - " I don't give a flying feather mate - you ain't moving til I say so!"
Eventually we move off - get to Migros and collect shopping - Police in car park here too - getting lunch!
We come out and along the road and are waved frantically through 2 sets of red traffic lights by the Policeman and his waving arms and whistle!
The rest of today has been a bit quiet to be honest!

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[frwjd]

Day 126
Saturday 12th March
Good morning
A bright and sunny start today only 10C forecasted but the actual temperatures have been higher than the forecast recently.
We'll probably visit the magnificent Aspendos theatre today, look out for the photos later.

Day 126
By 8.30 this morning our view was full of busy people!
Taxi's were coming and going, the security guards in their golf carts were negotiating round several joggers, a power walker in a red jacket marched towards the sand dunes, her arms swinging ferociously.
A flat bed truck collects bin liners of rubbish as gardeners start raking the verges and 2 more motorhomes join the weekend residents in the car park. A man walks past, dragging on a cigarette and little puffs of smoke stream away from him on the stiff breeze. A Pied Wagtail investigates an empty plastic dog food bowl and skitters away quickly when the wind overturns it.
A while later we wander down to the beach for a walk and a late lunch. The construction site to our left is busy and a yellow digger moves backwards and forwards - digger empty, digger full, repeat.
The beach must be lovely in Summer, the sand is soft and fine, with high dunes running behind the restaurants lining the water's edge. It's almost deserted at the moment, just a few family groups digging in the sand. There's some windblown litter, but not much and the empty metal framework for the sun shelters resemble the bleached white skeleton of a whale.
The white clouds that I think I'm looking at, turn out to be snow caps on the mountains that encompass 2 sides of this bay. Despite the stiff breeze, the sea is calm and deeply blue.
It's noticeable that the general population here in Turkey seem to spend more time on their phones than off! Drivers - of cars, trucks, lorries, scooters, bikes, buses. Shop staff, pedestrians, young, old - I can't remember it being this full on in England. Even the parents here on the beach with their children are digging sandcastles but talking on their phones!
Another thing we've noticed is how many people here smoke - or possibly we're noticing it more as Turkish tobacco has such a strong smell?
We choose which of the 2 restaurants we want to eat at and
study the menu - John google translates as there's no English subtitles at this one. We choose meatballs for me and a mixed grill for John. When it arrives - there's enough to feed a small army! It includes an enormous plate of 3 different types of bread!
While we were waiting a party of 15 had come in - 8 adults and 7 children. The waiters push 2 tables together for the adults and 2 tables together for the children to accommodate them all. The oldest child looks to be about 12 and the youngest about 4.
The 4 year old doesn't want to sit with the children and his mutinous looks make me wonder how long it will be before it all descends into chaos!
He wanders around and I watch him with bated breath. John has his back to him. As I watch, the boy sticks a finger up his nose and has a root around to see what he can find. He extracts his finger and inspects it keenly.
Walking over to a nearby table he wipes his finger backwards and forwards along the chair's seat cushion! I shudder - then surreptitiously check my own seat cushion - just in case he's a regular customer!!
We walk back to Dippy keeping our eyes open for the water tap that's supposed to be here but don't find it. We do get a sprinkling of water from the many garden hoses dousing the lawns though.
A bonus is that the market shop that we thought was closed - isn't, so we get a couple of loaves ready for tomorrow's breakfast.
An even bigger bonus was tonight's sunset - stunning!

 

[frwjd]

Day 127
Sunday 13th March
Good morning!
It's one of those days when you wake up, feel the cold, hear the wind and go back to sleep!
Just 4C at the moment and 11C forecast today but no rain!
The forecast has been saying that much better weather is just a week away for three weeks!
We didn't visit Aspendos yesterday and will probably leave it until tomorrow. Looking forward to lunch! It was excellent yesterday, Wendy had meat balls and I had a mixed grill. Both served with chips, rice and a salad plus a basket full of lightly toasted bread and a tapenade dip. Also two cokes, a litre and half of water, two teas and an extra portion of chips that weren't needed. All cooked exceptionally well and the bill was just £9.57!!

Day 127
We had a howling gale all night and woke to - an even worse howling gale! It's bitterly cold and the sky is a stunning blue without a single cloud.
That could be the end of today's report as we really have done nothing worth writing about - however - that feels so unfair! So - I'm going to cheat a little! I hope you won't mind!
I've always kept a diary of some description, so I always have things to look back on - some good, some bad, some happy, some sad! I'm going to share an entry from October 6th 2020. John and I were on our first trip abroad in SerendipityToo, who was half the size of our current "DippyIII". We called it our "Adventure Before Dementia" trip!
"We left Assissi and arrived in Asceloni Piceno 2 nights ago and are staying in a car park - busy, but not too noisy. Not as noisy as the baby donkey in Assissi who was soooo cute! That is - until he has a bad dream at 3am and brays loudly for his Mum! And she brays back from her stable which is 100 yards away, to comfort him!
We went for supplies in town, twisting and turning up narrow little streets filled with all sorts of goods. Everywhere is busy and the shops and pavement cafes are full of people - and full of different accents too! German (and obviously) Italian seem the most prevalent and some English too, but not many.
The sky has become steadily more overcast and suddenly the rain starts pouring down as we make a run for shelter. The pavement was slippery and I was glad John had a firm grip on my hand!
We always hold hands when we walk - not necessarily romantic, more a case of John knowing I have absolutely NO sense of direction! At some point, we changed hands as John - true gentleman that he is - walks on the pavement side.
We duck into a small grocery shop and begin to gather the foods we want to cook this evening. The fruit on display consists of juicy oranges and firm lemons, the smell is delicious! I chose some things, laughing with the lovely Italian shopkeeper as she tried to teach me how to count in Italian, correcting my pronunciation!
I reach for my phone wallet to pay her and find it gone! Panic ensues! It must have fallen from my raincoat pocket when we ran for shelter. We re-trace our steps frantically, not really holding out any hope that we'll find it.
Not only does it contain my bank cards but as with many mobile phone users I no longer memorise the phone numbers of people - I just press the icon next to their name.
I can remember the very first phone number we ever had, when I was aged 7 and ours was the first home telephone in our street - but I can't remember my daughter's number and I talk to her weekly!
To add insult to injury the rain increases and we shelter under an awning while as a desperate last resort - John phones my mobile, not really with any confidence that we'll get anywhere, but just in case!
Someone answers! It's an Italian lady - with little English, but between us we manage to interpret that we need to come to the Government Office in the People's Square - Piazza de Popolo.
John finally gets us there and we approach the building to find a welcoming committee of 3 Carabinieri - armed Police, standing on the steps with their arms crossed and frowns on their faces!
They took us inside and gave me a telling off for having my bank cards in my phone, my phone in my pocket, and - as far as they were concerned - my passwords written down!
I didn't have enough Italian to tell them that the "passwords" were fakes so that if my phone wallet WAS stolen then any miscreant using the fake passwords would cause my account to be shut down!
Having thanked them profusely we left, feeling VERY relieved that some honest person had turned it in - intact!"
So - you see from the above that strange/funny things seem to follow me about! I think John spends his days wondering what's going to happen to me next - his life seems to have been very quiet before he met me! For me - this is completely - normal!
We rounded off tonight with a meal of Sea Bream at the 2nd of the beachside restaurants across the field from us. It was - ok. Not as good as we've had in other places though.
We're off sightseeing tomorrow so hopefully will be able to give a report on where we go.

 

[coroner]

Day 117
Thursday 3rd March
Good morning!
Yesterday brought some of the worst weather we've seen, torrential rain and thunderstorms that stayed overhead.
Today is back to bright sunshine but the forecast changes by the hour.
We want to visit the fantastic ruins at Tlos and it's a mountain journey so today's weather presents our only opportunity.
So we're off to the ghost town of Kayakoy then to the Tlos ruins.
Have a good day, weekend nearly here
Kayaköy Broken Link Removed

Day 117
We prepared to leave our overnight stop by looking for a water point to fill Dippy's tank up. We found a standpipe but had no nozzle that would fit, plus we couldn't get close enough for our hosepipes to reach anyway.
In the past, we have resorted to John filling the big water containers and then filling the tank up by hand with repeated treks to a tap. This wasn't an option today as the ground between us and a tap was treacherous with deep mud and flooded ground.
I unhooked the electric lead while John took a turn along the towpath to see if he could spot an alternative tap - but no luck there either!
He returned to find me battling with "Bruno"! Bruno was a young dog who was at least part Great Dane going by the size of him - his head reached to just under my armpit! A nice enough temperament - but he wanted to play!
I rolled the electric lead round my arm and he tried to play tug-o-war with the remainder. Trying to retrieve it without him chewing through it was a nightmare I really didn't need.
I pushed him away - he thought this was a good game and pushed me back! At one point he reared up to put his feet on my shoulders and I had to duck and weave to stay upright.
We were both getting quite tangled by the time a man came to my rescue and subdued him with a few harsh words. John appeared and couldn't understand why it had taken me so long to just wind up a few yards of wire!
We set off for our journey to Tlos with the sun shining and wet fields and mud everywhere we looked. Rivers that had been dry the week before were now raging torrents of muddy water. Landslips of rock were every few feet and water poured down the mountains.
The road was lined with lemon and orange groves as far as the eye could see and great bushes of Aloe cactii. When we started to see shops again they were mostly farm machinery, pottery and - boats! The shop that stood out sold - cartwheels!
In the distance we can see that the snow on the mountains is quite far down the slopes - up until now it's been mainly just the tips that have had snow. By the time we reach Tlos the mountains have formed a semi-circle around us!
We sail through Seydikimer on a wide but bumpy road. The houses are good but the amount of accrued scrap and general rubbish is high. Everywhere we look we can see people gathering sticks, stacking logs or cutting great swathes of branches from the trees.
The Mosque however - is pristine! It's white painted walls sparkle and the gold on the roof shines like a beacon. The surrounding area of it's land is manicured and tidy.
We reach Tlos in record time and park up near some ruins that are away from the main area. We are greeted by a man who owns the restaurant near us. He assures us it is OK to park there and is a safe place - he has CCTV and so does the Ticket booth at the main entrance to the ruins. He encourages us to come in for chiy, coffee or a beer but we tell him we want to take some photos first.
We walk back a short way to the first of the ruins and are taken aback by the fact that these aren't the main attraction - there's a lot there and the scale surprises us.
Photos taken, we walk back past Dippy and to his restaurant, where he's watching out for us. Over Chiy, and segments of oranges taken from his own tree he quizzes us on where we're from, what are we doing, where have we been, where do we go next!
His English is quite good, but when we asked for 2 bottles of Coke to take with us, he poured them into beer glasses for us - so we had to stop and drink them! The good part is that the glasses were branded "Efes" which is John's favourite beer - so we actually bought the glasses from him too!
During the conversation, he asked about if we were married and laughed when we told him No! How many children had we got, grandchildren, did we work, where did we live. Did we want a meal in the restaurant tonight, breakfast tomorrow? If it was cold tonight we could come and sleep in his Mum and Dad's house as they lived next to him!
His free gift to us as we left was a small pot of Turkish tea leaves, after John quizzed him what he used!
Tlos was evidently built 4,000 years ago and was inhabited right up until the 19th century. The top is crowned by an Acropolis and
there are numerous cave tombs in the rock face. I scrambled up to look inside some of them and they're quite tiny. Smaller than I expected but - obviously - big enough for a stone sarcophagus to be interred.
Some were smaller and had shelves cut in the rock on 3 sides. One of the information boards says that after a certain amount of time the remains would be taken out so that new remains could replace them! A bit like renting the space out - then acquiring new tenants!
The path along this section is very narrow and crumbly - with one helluva drop if you slip!
The theatre could seat 2,550 people, and the lower section was a sports arena - which is evidently now used as a field by one of the farmers!
I would have liked to reach the top and seen more of the acropolis - but yet again, time wasn't on our side. We descended the steep slope and left for Kalkan.
The road was fraught with obstacles such as Cement Mixers! A tight squeeze at times and we were faced with a glare of light as we dropped into Yesilkoy. We thought it was from the many white house roofs we could see but then we realised they weren't houses - they were greenhouses and polytunnels! They went on for MILES!
We eventually reached Kalkan but it was horrendously busy and we couldn't find anywhere to easily park. We headed out the other side and ended up in a parking area overlooking the stunning turquoise bay! The view was worth the journey, but there really was nowhere to park easily so - back to Tlos!
The restaurant was all closed up and my knocking on the various doors didn't rouse anyone, so we're tucked up in Dippy, with a fantastic view of the Acropolis by moonlight, perfectly happy to be here having enjoyed yet another lovely day in Turkey.

Love Tlos we can see the ruins and the flag on top from our villa will be driving over in 4 weeks did you get to see the rock carving of pegusus the winged horse Tlos is his home

 

[frwjd]

Day 128
Monday 14th March
Good morning!
Still windy here but lovely if you can find a sheltered spot in the sun. 11C forecast.
I think we'll visit the fantastic theatre at Aspendos and fill up with diesel, water and LPG.

Day 128
Whilst definitely not a sea breeze, the gale force winds from yesterday have dropped considerably. The couple in the caravan next to us have washing pegged to the wire fencing to dry and they're sitting enjoying chiy outside.
Beyond the fencing the sprinklers are curving great arcs and pirouettes of water into the sunshine, creating rainbows of distorted light.
We leave here at 11.30, passing alongside the canal where a man is fishing, his bike propped against a bush above him. 5 cows are cropping the grass nearby and one investigates the bike, causing it to topple over with a clang! The cow jumps - so does the man! I don't know who was the most startled!
We quickly pass polytunnels again. A heap of rotting tomatoes lies on the ground next to one, and inside are low rows of dark green plants. They're the grey green that I associate with brassicas of some sort.
The warmth through the windows belies the cold vision of snow capped mountains ahead of us, as the Sat Nav tells us to make the first U turn of the day! A few miles later it tells us to turn onto the D400 - which is rapidly beginning to feel like Home as we've travelled along it so many times!
As we pass through Sekir, we pass 2nd hand tractor sales to our left and a scrap yard to our right. Centre stage is a wrecked Police car! It's side and roof are mangled and crushed.
Not long after, we pass an ancient aquaduct on the outskirts of a village before arriving at Aspendos. We're here to see what is reputed to be the best preserved theatre in the world. It was built in 160/180 AD when Aspendos - a coastal city built in 546 BC - was in it's heyday. It changed hands many times with different conquerors before war and earthquakes ravaged it. It's chief export was horses! Closely followed by lemon tree wood furniture and wine.
The architectural backdrop to the stage still has enough carvings, porticos and architraves for the imagination to picture how stunning it was. The stage itself was encased in thick plastic sheeting - probably being renovated, at a guess. It was a shame, but couldn't be helped.
The theatre could seat 9,000 and is in a 2 step formation leading the eye upwards to where 15ft high arches formed almost box like enclosures of private seating. There are 59 private boxes. Yes 59! I counted them - repeatedly!
I'm dysacalculic so my brain doesn't do numbers easily but I got John (who definitely DOES have a numbers brain) to count them too. He did it 2 or 3 times and confirmed that (for once) I was right! His suggestion that they may have been privately sponsored and only 59 people came forward may be correct? Either way - the number is not logical and made my brain ache!
There's very little else there but it's still worth going just to get a really good impression of what an (almost) complete Theatre would have looked like. I gather that there are annual Opera and Ballet performances held there - entry is free if you're Turkish, foreigners pay £2.50.
We travel onwards and as we pass through the fields we're treated to a lovely view of the Aquaduct. As it gets closer we pass alongside a canal of milky green water. Pipes are laid in it to pump water across the fields of crops either side. We stop and wait for a group of cows to pass, herded by 2 elderly women. A few more yards takes us between the 2 sides of the Aquaduct - the missing section is directly above the road.
We pass a truck piled high with lemons and the Sat Nav directs us into a road that narrows dramatically and turns into someone's front garden! John manages to reverse back down and out onto the road again as there's just no space at all to do a U turn!
We pass a series of tractors - some of the drivers wave, others don't. Then suddenly, the road narrows dramatically into being just wide enough to squeeze through between 2 ramshackle houses - if we hold our breath!
We pop out the other side and travel along a road 3 cars wide - which is just as well, as there are so many potholes that it's like the men's slalom in the downhill winter sports!
We weave our way through a lovely pine forest, twisting and turning - up, up, up! We have mountain to one side of us and ravines to the other, water tumbling over boulders below us. I get just a quick glimpse of an Aquaduct - only 4 arches left standing but very unexpected in it's location!
The steepness increases as the road narrows and then we suddenly arrive at - Zeytintasi Caves. The caves we're here to see were discovered in 1997 during roadworks.
The site looks deserted apart from a motorbike and 2 men smoking. John U turns - without the Sat Nav telling him to - expecting to go all the way back down again. I hop out to look at the info board for clues and a man approaches. His babble in Turkish is lost on me so I do what I always do in these situations - I beam a full on smile at him!
He grins and trots over to the ticket office with a bunch of keys - he's the Warden!
5 minutes later he's told us in Turkish and with sign language - that we have to leave our phones on the desk. No photos of any kind. No touching. Mind our heads. Try not to slip. Masks must be worn at all times.
We follow him into the dark interior and then into a a mellow light. WOW!
He shows us heads, faces, hundreds of drying strands of spaghetti, an elephant, skulls, lion, owls, monkey, Buddha, Cappadocia seen from above in a balloon!!!
He beams at my excitement at it all and explains that this little stalactite clinging to the roof has grown an inch in 27 years! Shows us where stalactites have melded into the stalagmites below them and formed an hour glass effect. The colours, the weave of patterns, the pool at the very back where drops drip drip drip into it!
The whole thing - tiny though it is - is overwhelmingly beautiful.
We're through and out in 20 minutes, cold, damp from drips and grinning from ear to ear! I've seen stalactites and stalagmites in caves before but this is a tiny little treasure and one of the best I've seen in such a small space!
From the smile on his face - I think he appreciated how much enjoyment we got from our visit.
We left and retraced our steps - at one narrow point a car stopped and wound his windows down to ask us with a big smile - "Address?" It took a moment or two to realise he thought that we were lost! Why on earth else would we be trying to squeeze something this size down a narrow lane?
We reached our starting point - the car park - and checked yet again for the advertised water tap. Nothing. Even the washing up posts and sinks in the toilets have the water turned off. We'll be able to fill up tomorrow though when we go back to Sahir Karavans for the replacement indicator cover.
We ate at the restaurant across the grass again - the waiter very kindly cranked the log stove open when he saw me almost trying to sit on it!
He laughed at John in his short sleeved top as I took off my wooly hat, the hood from my hoodie, my thick winter coat and gloves! 10 minutes later - he lit the log burner on the other side of me too! I'd warmed up by the time we needed to walk back!

 

[frwjd]

Day 129
We headed back to Sahil Karavans this morning to have Dippy's new sidelight fitted. We went via the baklava shop for a box of treats for the men, as they have been absolute stars in everything they've done for us!
It only took minutes and they also kindly let us fill up with water too. We were soon on our way and back on the D400! We left the towns behind and started the climb back into the mountains. Our ears popped with the altitude as we spiralled up.
Four goats perched precariously on the cliff face as they tore at the dangling vegetation. Higher above their heads were spindly pine trees and a brilliant blue sky.
We level out and then the descent starts. We pass several small groups of 3-4 ramshackle houses. One has smoke spiralling from a chimney but we see no signs to show whether any of the others are inhabited.
We come round a bend and swoop down into a wide bowl filled with muddy water! The higher ground of the mountains completely encases it and the road barely stands proud of the flood. A couple of houses are there, water up to the ground floor windows!
We spend the next few hours feeling as if we're on fairground rides, We go up, we go down, snake left, snake right - rarely in a straight line for more than yards at a time as we travel along roads carved from the bedrock of this country. It's dizzying!
The snow caps have been ever present to left, right and ahead of us. Now they seem to be getting closer and closer and we start to pass the red, yellow, black poles standing sentry at the road edges denoting the depth of snow when the road is covered!
We enter - and exit - Yukarikaraman which is a mix of modern houses which has sprung up to both sides of the road, with the odd ramshackle "I was here first" type of shack. I wonder how the people here earn a living as there appears to be nothing here.
There are no crops in the fields - just grass. No fruit trees, olive groves - no industry. Just houses. As we leave it behind the road - which has been excellent - deteriorates rapidly. Pockets of snow appear on the verges and in the edges of fields.
A few miles on we enter Kizilkadak which looks very similar except that there are a few bare fruit trees and some empty polytunnels.
The whole area is a drab grey colour - even the grass. It's depressing! We pass empty homes, their windows and doors are missing and in one some curtains flap forlornly in the wind. It resembles nothing more or less than a Ghost Town! If this was a Western it's about now that a Tumbleweed would roll across our path!
The road now passes through the lower slopes of the mountains and we have considerable amounts of snow alongside us. Kayabas - is no different and some of the polytunnels here have collapsed completely.
Further on we round a bend with a high cliff to my left - water is running swiftly from above and it has dried in long icicles that almost touch the ground - creating a frozen waterfall effect!
We reach Bekciler and things seem to pick up a little! There are several tractors pulling trailers piled with cut wood and branches. Fruit stalls laden with fresh produce, but the general atmosphere seems to be very lacklustre. The people obviously have problems here - there are no smiles, no groups of people chatting, no - animation or good body language.
As we leave the village outskirts the road changes in the blink of an eye to one much better maintained - the D350. It's not long before the village of "Don't" hove into sight! I had to check twice - but Yes, that's it's name!
We see another Police cordon a few miles further on and ease up - but they wave us on.
The road drops away at the side of us again into deep water filled ravines and on the left is the cliff face, which has a waterfall covered in a sheet of ice and with icicles dangling to the side of it. Just after it there is a fountain of water turning the air into rainbows! A water pipe along the road has burst and it's spraying everywhere - when it freezes it's going to be a nightmare!
Over the next 30 minutes we pass dozens of roadside fruit stalls - all abandoned and in ruins!
The next several towns are passed through in quick succession and then we reach our destination of Fethiye and the Calypso Beach Bar. It's a stunning location next to the stony beach and we see an enormous converted coach that we've met up with before! We park next to it and hope to catch up with them tomorrow.
A police car is parked there too as the officers eat at tables on the beach front. We're told that they won't be long and when they've finished eating they'll move the police car to make a bit more space for us - very helpful!
Our hostess and her brother help us to link up to their electricity and they offer us water when we're ready to top up and the use of their toilet to empty the chemi loo when needed - 150TL per night.
We sit back with a couple of drinks and watch the fishermen along the beach casting their rods, a few walkers stroll past in the hot sunshine.
A while later we enjoy Chicken Schnitzel for me and Kofte for John - deliciously cooked! We watch the sun go down over the calm blue sea and see it disappear behind one of the islands that encircle this bay. There's a full moon above us and the clouds turn pink with the setting sun.
The end of another lovely day in Turkey!

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[frwjd]

Day 130
Wednesday 16th March
Good morning!
A grey start here and a bit chilly but a sunny day is expected and 14C.
Not a great night's sleep, watched the football until 1am, someone playing very loud music, cars pulling up with music blaring, non stop barking from various dogs then, at first light, the fishermen arrived.
But, after a very poor start, we won the football match so all is well.
Today we'll be exploring Fethiye, it looked really nice on the drive in yesterday afternoon.

Day 130
I put ear plugs in last night as I'd had 4 consecutive nights of practically no sleep and was absolutely drained! Consequently - I had a fairly good night! John, however, had practically no sleep due to barking and howling dogs, noisy fishermen chatting and then construction workers turning up for work. Think we might BOTH have ear plugs in tonight!
As I sipped at my coffee I watched one of the workers walking towards us. There are blue metal barriers dividing the road and the pavement and he kicks every one of them. I'm puzzled as to why - then one of the barriers moves and he bends down and rams it more firmly into the ground - repeating the process as he goes along.
A truck drives past us and stops as it reaches him, the driver winding his window down and calling out to him. He runs up and reaches into the back, dragging out a carrier bag full of loaves of bread then trots back to the site as the truck turns and leaves again. Breakfast for the workers!
The day is grey and overcast and the morning exercisers stride along the beachfront, arms pumping. The fishermen cast and reel in repeatedly. The sea is a silver grey colour and there's barely a ripple on it.
We decide it would be nice to go out for breakfast - the fact that we have no bread is beside the point! John could walk down to the shop and get some but then I'd have to toast it and wash up afterwards so - coats and shoes on and off to the taxi stand!
As we walk along the beach we watch a fisherman set up his 3 rods. A small cat is sitting on his backpack, discarded on the ground, it's paws kneading the fabric as it gets comfy. Is it waiting for fish for breakfast?
A black head appears in the water some 12ft or so away from him, bobbing about in the waves. I think it's a seal? No! It's a diver, in full black wetsuit and flippers! How very odd!
The taxi whizzes us into town and we hunt for somewhere serving breakfast. Not so easy as it sounds! It seems we've missed breakfast and are a bit too early for lunch.
Eventually, we find a small cafe with seats outside, but it's freezing! There are a couple of tables inside though, thank goodness, so we settle down with what look like mini sausage rolls but are filled with Turkish cheese in some and lightly spiced potato in others.
We decide that our next mission is to explore downtown Fethiye and see what it has to offer the tourists. Up to now, we've concentrated on sightseeing, so we're changing tack a little this time.
The centre is a lot bigger than I expected it to be. The clothes shops are extensive and cater for all age groups and all budgets. There are well known names such as Sports Direct, JD Sports. etc as well as outlets that are well known to Turkish people but not necessarily to us Brits.
More than anything else were the bars and cafe's naturally, and shops selling spices, chocolate, Turkish Delight and Halva. Barbers, a few ladies hairdressers, but very few booksellers. Quite a few hardware and kitchenware shops and an awful lot of tour/trip arrangers.
A couple of cappuccino's later we decided to wander back along the beach route to where we were staying at Calypso Beach. It was a lovely walk but it was also a lot further than we anticipated!
We strolled along and went past children's play areas and adults gym equipment - something we've seen a lot of in Turkey and free to use and usually well maintained.
We passed beachside parks with lovely gardens and sculptures - and seats, which we began to increasingly take advantage of!
We considered at one point whether we hail a taxi - but decided to tough it out!
By the time we reached Dippy I'd had to restrain myself from asking John for a piggyback! When we got in, John checked his app - we'd walked 16,148 steps - 6.58 miles according to Google Fit!
I think we'll both sleep well tonight!!!

 

[frwjd]

Day 131
Thursday 17th February
Good morning!
A very sunny 15C forecasted for today but another cold spell due next week. I believe this has been the coldest winter in Turkey for 30 years! Istanbul was blanketed in snow a few days ago!
After yesterday's exertions we plan a quiet day today.
If any of you have a property for rent in or around Fethiye please get in touch!

Day 131
It's been an interesting couple of days.
We've enjoyed our stay in Turkey so much and there's still so much more to see, that we've decided to try and stay longer than our 90 day limit.
We've spent hours talking and thinking and re-visiting ideas and conversations - and John has done his usual extensive and in-depth research and the result was that we went to see an agent to discuss our options.
He was very informative and his English was excellent so we had no problem understanding everything that's involved in the process. At the end of the discussions we had pages and pages of notes including the all important issue of how it would affect Dippy and where we could go with her.
Our best option is to apply for a short term residency permit which will allow us to stay longer than our current 90 days, while still allowing us to travel/explore. However to qualify for that we need to rent a house/flat/apartment as a base so that we have a Turkish address!
Round 2 of John's research has therefore been to find a suitable rental in a nice location at a good/cheap price! Not so easy as we're coming up to tourist season so the prices are rising, plus so many of them want a 12 month rental agreement, while we would prefer 6 months!
We have a couple of places on a shortlist, and will see them over the next few days. So - watch this space!

 

[frwjd]

Day 132
Friday 18th March
Good morning!
A sunny 16C forecast but freezing tonight and just 10C for the rest of the weekend and next week
Last night was very busy! So many people from Turkey and the UK trying to help us with our property search, we really are very grateful.
Our viewings start at lunchtime today and look like there's a few tomorrow too.

Day 132
We woke to another lovely day here at Calypso Beach! Blue sky, calm blue sea, fishermen already hard at work with rod and line.
We asked yesterday what was used for bait - cooked chicken which had then been dried and coated in salt! Not exactly what I was expecting! The alternative, evidently, is small shrimp. Now THAT I could understand!
A truck trundled past us and down to where some construction work had been underway when we arrived and had finished yesterday. Half a dozen men jumped out and started to collect the bags of rubble and rubbish, dragging and carrying them off to one side.
The small boat that ferries people in and out of this beach coasted in sedately and moored up at the jetty. Several passengers were offloaded, some jumping into cars and driving towards us and others walking along the beach.
For the next half an hour, the construction workers loaded all their bags of debris into the ferry boat! I could see the boat gradually getting lower in the water as time went on.
Eventually the loading was finished and the boat pulled away, taking the rubbish and the workers with it. I wonder where it's going to dump it!
A message comes in to tell us that we're being collected earlier than expected to go and see a property that's for rent. Only from the outside today - the owner's next door neighbour is showing it to us.
He explains that the previous tenants have been a mix of weekly/ monthly and he's keen for someone a bit more long term to move in so they get to know who their neighbours are and if they're trustworthy or not to be around his family.
The area is nice and so is the apartment - from the outside. We have to go back another time to view it properly if we're interested.
We decide to drive to the outskirts of Yaniklar to look at the area and what it has to offer. While we're sat having a coffee in a layby and browsing rentals - one comes up not far away, so we decide to see where it is and what it looks like.
We find it ok, but can't decide if it's supposed to be on 2 or 3 floors. It's got a small garden and is set amidst orange groves. It's quite isolated - which can be good or bad depending on other factors!
As we drive away a small tortoise is trying to desperately reach the other side of the road before we squash it! John slows down and it reaches the side and then disappears into it's shell!
The area is one of those that resembles a switchback of roads going up and down, left and right and we weave away and back to a bigger road as we start to head for Gocek. As we approach it I spot some Cave Tombs high above us, with a carved portico framing them in the rock face.
Gocek is very busy - we wanted to head for the harbour area but the traffic is manic and we turn away. We get tantalising glimpses of the sea every now and then. A Mosque is being repaired/renovated, the men hard at work, dust flying up in clouds.
Everywhere we've driven today there has been construction work going on. Mostly houses but some that are more high rise, so probably apartments/holiday rentals. The area is certainly expanding!
We get back and compare some notes before we're collected by Kerem to go and view some apartments.
In the car Kerem tells us that his cousin can help us with our permit! Guess what? His cousin is Gurkan - the man we saw a few days ago to get the lowdown on the permit details - what a coincidence!!
The first one is still being built! However - we really liked it! It was in a villagey type of area, with lots of space around it. A good walk to the nearest shops - but easily do-able.
The block consists of 4 apartments in total, with one of them being kept by the owners for themselves. The space is good - and well thought out. The steps up to each floor level are shallow which is a bonus for me!
The two bedrooms are small, but not cramped. The living room/diner/kitchen is large enough with a big balcony off of it for extra space. Along the kitchen wall the full height windows slide open onto railings - letting air in but preventing you from falling out!
Air conditioning in all rooms will help keep John nice and cool - as will the plunge pool end of the shared swimming pool! The bathroom is fully tiled with a decent sized shower.
The garden will eventually be turned from a building site into a small garden area with plants and shrubs. There's space outside the boundary wall that will easily accommodate Dippy - it's ticking a lot of boxes!
We come away with a lot to think about and the next viewing is a disappointment as it's much smaller. It's in a heavily built up area of high rise blocks and I tell John that it makes me feel claustrophobic - that was the outside!! We could maybe have parked Dippy outside but we couldn't have kept much of an eye on her.
We tell Kerem that we're not interested in looking at the others he has in mind for tonight. We need to come away and have a think and a chat by ourselves and we'll give him a decision tomorrow.
In some ways it seems too good to be true - doesn't it?

 

[Jays2]

Are you thinking of buying or renting?

 

[nicholsong]

Day 131
Thursday 17th February
Good morning!
A very sunny 15C forecasted for today but another cold spell due next week. I believe this has been the coldest winter in Turkey for 30 years! Istanbul was blanketed in snow a few days ago!
After yesterday's exertions we plan a quiet day today.
If any of you have a property for rent in or around Fethiye please get in touch!

Day 131
It's been an interesting couple of days.
We've enjoyed our stay in Turkey so much and there's still so much more to see, that we've decided to try and stay longer than our 90 day limit.
We've spent hours talking and thinking and re-visiting ideas and conversations - and John has done his usual extensive and in-depth research and the result was that we went to see an agent to discuss our options.
He was very informative and his English was excellent so we had no problem understanding everything that's involved in the process. At the end of the discussions we had pages and pages of notes including the all important issue of how it would affect Dippy and where we could go with her.
Our best option is to apply for a short term residency permit which will allow us to stay longer than our current 90 days, while still allowing us to travel/explore. However to qualify for that we need to rent a house/flat/apartment as a base so that we have a Turkish address!
Round 2 of John's research has therefore been to find a suitable rental in a nice location at a good/cheap price! Not so easy as we're coming up to tourist season so the prices are rising, plus so many of them want a 12 month rental agreement, while we would prefer 6 months!
We have a couple of places on a shortlist, and will see them over the next few days. So - watch this space!

I think you might struggle with that aspect, because as far as I know the 6-month limit on importing vehicles free of tax, without the need to export them again, is not connected with residency, and is strictly enforced.

Be very careful on this aspect, even to getting a lawyer's written opinion - backed by his professional indemnity insurance.

Worth looking at a quick trip Kos-Bodrum, if that resets the 6-month tax-exempt rule, but even that short return hop could be expensive.

Good luck with solving that one.

At least you are already aware of the problem.

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[frwjd]

I think you might struggle with that aspect, because as far as I know the 6-month limit on importing vehicles free of tax, without the need to export them again, is not connected with residency, and is strictly enforced.

Be very careful on this aspect, even to getting a lawyer's written opinion - backed by his professional indemnity insurance.

Worth looking at a quick trip Kos-Bodrum, if that resets the 6-month tax-exempt rule, but even that short return hop could be expensive.

Good luck with solving that one.

At least you are already aware of the problem.

The van can stay in Turkey for 2 years, however if it leaves the country it has to stay out for 186 days before it can return for another two years.
We have a local customs expert onboard so will be relying on him. He's made it clear that rules and regs are constantly changing.
We're fortunate that we arrived in the country on 7th February just two days before the new, more restrictive, residency permit rules became effective.
My next mission is the ins and outs of exporting the van from the UK and possible reimport at a later date.

 

[frwjd]

Are you thinking of buying or renting?

We'll be renting and found a place last evening

 

[nicholsong]

The van can stay in Turkey for 2 years, however if it leaves the country it has to stay out for 186 days before it can return for another two years.
We have a local customs expert onboard so will be relying on him. He's made it clear that rules and regs are constantly changing.
We're fortunate that we arrived in the country on 7th February just two days before the new, more restrictive, residency permit rules became effective.
My next mission is the ins and outs of exporting the van from the UK and possible reimport at a later date.

Thanks

As you say constantly changing and I am completely out of date, as if a vehicle was in one's passport one could not leave the country, e.g. to fly home, without it or paying the tax.

Another country whose administration I would not like to have to deal with.

 

[frwjd]

Thanks

As you say constantly changing and I am completely out of date, as if a vehicle was in one's passport one could not leave the country, e.g. to fly home, without it or paying the tax.

Another country whose administration I would not like to have to deal with.

I will verify that when we meet him again on Monday but I am under the impression that we can go wherever we want without the van. Don't forget we will, hopefully, have the residency permot then.
The customs guy tells us repeatedly that the laws keep changing.

 

[nicholsong]

I will verify that when we meet him again on Monday but I am under the impression that we can go wherever we want without the van. Don't forget we will, hopefully, have the residency permot then.
The customs guy tells us repeatedly that the laws keep changing.

New change, new fee for advice?

You are inTurkey.

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[funflair]

Day 132
Friday 18th March
Good morning!
A sunny 16C forecast but freezing tonight and just 10C for the rest of the weekend and next week
Last night was very busy! So many people from Turkey and the UK trying to help us with our property search, we really are very grateful.
Our viewings start at lunchtime today and look like there's a few tomorrow too.

Day 132
We woke to another lovely day here at Calypso Beach! Blue sky, calm blue sea, fishermen already hard at work with rod and line.
We asked yesterday what was used for bait - cooked chicken which had then been dried and coated in salt! Not exactly what I was expecting! The alternative, evidently, is small shrimp. Now THAT I could understand!
A truck trundled past us and down to where some construction work had been underway when we arrived and had finished yesterday. Half a dozen men jumped out and started to collect the bags of rubble and rubbish, dragging and carrying them off to one side.
The small boat that ferries people in and out of this beach coasted in sedately and moored up at the jetty. Several passengers were offloaded, some jumping into cars and driving towards us and others walking along the beach.
For the next half an hour, the construction workers loaded all their bags of debris into the ferry boat! I could see the boat gradually getting lower in the water as time went on.
Eventually the loading was finished and the boat pulled away, taking the rubbish and the workers with it. I wonder where it's going to dump it!
A message comes in to tell us that we're being collected earlier than expected to go and see a property that's for rent. Only from the outside today - the owner's next door neighbour is showing it to us.
He explains that the previous tenants have been a mix of weekly/ monthly and he's keen for someone a bit more long term to move in so they get to know who their neighbours are and if they're trustworthy or not to be around his family.
The area is nice and so is the apartment - from the outside. We have to go back another time to view it properly if we're interested.
We decide to drive to the outskirts of Yaniklar to look at the area and what it has to offer. While we're sat having a coffee in a layby and browsing rentals - one comes up not far away, so we decide to see where it is and what it looks like.
We find it ok, but can't decide if it's supposed to be on 2 or 3 floors. It's got a small garden and is set amidst orange groves. It's quite isolated - which can be good or bad depending on other factors!
As we drive away a small tortoise is trying to desperately reach the other side of the road before we squash it! John slows down and it reaches the side and then disappears into it's shell!
The area is one of those that resembles a switchback of roads going up and down, left and right and we weave away and back to a bigger road as we start to head for Gocek. As we approach it I spot some Cave Tombs high above us, with a carved portico framing them in the rock face.
Gocek is very busy - we wanted to head for the harbour area but the traffic is manic and we turn away. We get tantalising glimpses of the sea every now and then. A Mosque is being repaired/renovated, the men hard at work, dust flying up in clouds.
Everywhere we've driven today there has been construction work going on. Mostly houses but some that are more high rise, so probably apartments/holiday rentals. The area is certainly expanding!
We get back and compare some notes before we're collected by Kerem to go and view some apartments.
In the car Kerem tells us that his cousin can help us with our permit! Guess what? His cousin is Gurkan - the man we saw a few days ago to get the lowdown on the permit details - what a coincidence!!
The first one is still being built! However - we really liked it! It was in a villagey type of area, with lots of space around it. A good walk to the nearest shops - but easily do-able.
The block consists of 4 apartments in total, with one of them being kept by the owners for themselves. The space is good - and well thought out. The steps up to each floor level are shallow which is a bonus for me!
The two bedrooms are small, but not cramped. The living room/diner/kitchen is large enough with a big balcony off of it for extra space. Along the kitchen wall the full height windows slide open onto railings - letting air in but preventing you from falling out!
Air conditioning in all rooms will help keep John nice and cool - as will the plunge pool end of the shared swimming pool! The bathroom is fully tiled with a decent sized shower.
The garden will eventually be turned from a building site into a small garden area with plants and shrubs. There's space outside the boundary wall that will easily accommodate Dippy - it's ticking a lot of boxes!
We come away with a lot to think about and the next viewing is a disappointment as it's much smaller. It's in a heavily built up area of high rise blocks and I tell John that it makes me feel claustrophobic - that was the outside!! We could maybe have parked Dippy outside but we couldn't have kept much of an eye on her.
We tell Kerem that we're not interested in looking at the others he has in mind for tonight. We need to come away and have a think and a chat by ourselves and we'll give him a decision tomorrow.
In some ways it seems too good to be true - doesn't it?

Loving your travels you keep taking me back to the places we visited.

Gocek wasn't that manic when we were there

This was our room, a stones throw from the harbour, 1989.

 

[frwjd]

New change, new fee for advice?

You are inTurkey.

Of course!

 

[glastry]

Greetings all

Wendy and I left the UK in Dippy III, our 2008 Rapido 7099F, on 7th November 2021 and have driven via the Balkans to Turkey where we arrived a week ago on February 7th 2022.

We have learned so much from this forum and there aren't a lot of Turkey travel posts about so I thought I'd create a post for the mutual benefit of anyone interested in coming this way and getting out of Schengen for 90 days. Like France, Turkey also offers a 12 month visa but I haven't properly investigated either yet.

We have a FB page Travels on a State Pension that covers the whole trip. Typically I post a brief note in the mornings which outlines our plans for the day and Wendy posts a warts and all rerview of our day every evening. If there's any interest and you don't do FB I could copy and paste those on here. We are certainly not seasoned camper travellers and, with a combined age of 137, we aren't the quickest at learning new tricks.

People travelling from the UK do not currently need a visa to visit Turkey for periods of 90 days or less.
Covid rules and regulations change almost daily so you should always check the current rules. In our case we have been fully jabbed with the third vaccination on 31/10/2021 and we had completed the obligatory Passenger Locator Forms.

We crossed from Greece into Turkey at Ipsala and the whole procedure lasted 35 minutes.
Window 1 - we were waved straight through
Window 2 - we showed our passports and they wanted to look inside the van, he just stood outside and peered through the open door! We were asked how much alcohol and tobacco we had and if we were carrying anything illegal. He asked to see all the alcohol I had mentioned and while I was away from the door retreiving it he asked Wendy for suitcases as he wanted to look inside those. She opened the wardrobe door and he just shrugged and walked away. We were asked to get out of the van and had our photographs taken from a camera on a fixed pole. We are both quite small but still had to crouch down for the lens
Window 3 - We had to show our V5 and insurance green card.
Window 4 - we had all our covid related stuff ready to hand over but they didn't ask. They pointed in the direction of a large buiding 50 yards away and said GO then comeback! The building turned out to house their vehicle xray equipment, they took our documents waved us through to the xray and asked us to leave the vehicle and take with us "cat and dogs". Duly x-rayed we parked up and returned to window 4 as requested where an officer just shouted GO at us so off we toddled.

In general the roads have been excellent, better than the UK, but there are still places where a good road peters out into a dirt track before reverting to tarmac again. The driving has been easy enough, other drivers are more polite than the Balkan countries. A word of warning though for all countries South of Slovenia, they take left hand bends with at least two wheels on the wrong side of the road and don't hurry to get out of the way when they see another vehicle coming towards them!

Garages are plentiful and modern with diesel between 80p and 88p per litre while LPG pumps charge around 43p per litre.
We plan to spend most of our time off-grid but there are far fewer places at the side of the road to overnight in. They are careful to ensure any rain can easily drain away from the road so there are often gullies running the length on each side. Stopping places on major routes are few and far between too.

When parking for the night we are very discreet, no camping and all blinds up and ensure our spot isn't obstructing anyone. We've stayed by a beach and on a quayside and the police haven't been interested in us at all. Officially so called "wild" camping is illegal in Turkey.
Their carriageways seem to be a little wider than ours.
The people are incredibly friendly!

That's it for now and I'm not sure which is the best way to report our travels and/or answer any questions you may have.
I don't want to clog the board up with all our daily posts unless there is a demand for it and you can follow our trip on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TravelsonaStatePension

We are also very keen to hear from others who have visited Turkey, all hints, tips and suggestions of places to visit are welcome!

hi- i would not really call it a suggestion-but- i hear that the consulate general at Konaklar Mar.Carnlik Cad,Akasyali Sok no 6, can be well worth a visit. Best to phone in advance apparently, the number is (212)2819194, just say that Jamal sent you - you should have a lively day.

 

[nicholsong]

hi- i would not really call it a suggestion-but- i hear that the consulate general at Konaklar Mar.Carnlik Cad,Akasyali Sok no 6, can be well worth a visit. Best to phone in advance apparently, the number is (212)2819194, just say that Jamal sent you - you should have a lively day.

Whose Consulate General - British?

 

[Krumpli]

Wee've visited Turkey several times; mostly with a Land Rover and a tent. A couple of years ago we took our Bessacarr and had a great time. Mostly off-site camping. We agree that finding a decent "wild" site is difficult as main roads have barriers or ditches, or both. However we managed and went all the way round, so to speak. Our website has a section on the places we stopped at complete with coordinates, description and photo. Hope it helps.

Turkey

Places in Turkey The downloadable file contains Google Earth Placemarks of Night Stops, campsites, places of interest and Aires in Turkey. The colour and/or shape of the placemark icons is of no...

bessyonthemove.weebly.com

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