90 Days in Turkey Spring 2022

[frwjd]

Day 109
Wednesday 23rd February
Good morning!
We had a thunderstorm last evening and another one due at lunchtime today.
Still warm though, 11C during the night and 17C expected again today.
Not sure what our plans are we might visit Ephesus or just wander round the town.
Hope your weather is better, have a good day

Day 109
It rained for most of the night but nothing horrendous and we woke to grey skies and drizzle. By Noon it had cleared to sun and shade, a light breeze swaying the branches of the olive trees next to us.
I’m still a bit under the weather with this throat and ear infection so a quiet day was ordered to try and get me back on my feet again. We go to Ephesus tomorrow and it will be a busy day so I’m told.
This sight is quite small and has a high percentage of stored caravans. There’s one road in and you turn on the grass and use the same road to go back out! A row of small apartments run along one side of the path. They have another row of apartments above them, all accessed from a long balcony. Some people moved into one of them this morning and we were treated to the sight – and sound – of 2 small boys learning to ride bikes!
There’s a very good shopping centre opposite the site - which I’d planned to explore – however, the time ran away from me today and I’ll have to try and take a look tomorrow instead. The harbour is a stone’s throw across the road and is busy with pleasure boats as well as fishing boats. Lots of seats to just sit and enjoy it all.
I’ve been twiddling with the GoPro footage while I get to grips with the technology needed to come up with something usable for the posts. I’m getting there- but it’s a slow process. I find I have to write every single step down as 5 minutes later I’ve already forgotten what I just did! I could almost do with someone videoing ME while I do it so that I can re-wind the footage and see what I just did!
This evening we ate at the Chinese Restaurant for a change. It was absolutely delicious and the staff were unobtrusively attentive and very friendly – especially Byron, who was very interested in our trip!
I had Sweet and Sour chicken and John had Sizzling Chicken, we shared a boiled rice portion, Lemon Cheesecake for my pudding while John had Fried Ice Cream!!! A Coke for me and a Beer for John washed it all down.
The meal was delicious and made a nice change from what we’ve been having. The Bill was bigger than we’ve become used to paying though – 713TL.

 

[frwjd]

Day 110
Thursday 24th February
Good morning!
We had more showers overnight but expected to be dry today and cooler, just 12C.
Today we're going to see the jewel in Turkeys archaeological crown Ephesus!
Nearly weekend again, have a good day

<Broken link removed>

Day 110
We woke up to a chilly, drizzly day so dressed for the weather for our trip to Ephesus. This means that John conceded to wearing a lightweight raincoat over his short sleeved t-shirt and I had a long sleeved polo neck under a sweater with my fleece on top of that and my full length Barbour fleecy lined hooded raincoat topping it off!
The drive to the bottom of the hill that Ephesus sits on took us about 25 minutes and we pulled into the car park to be met by a man running towards us waving his arms in the air. He told us that we couldn't park there, next to the tour buses, we had to park in the smaller car park to the side.
We followed his directions and he re-appeared at our door as we tried to get our coats on - offering us advice on what to see, where to go, did we want to buy a carpet, a rug, jewellery, olive oil - the list was endless!
His name was Sultan and he showed us a book with written reviews from satisfied tourists praising his advice, his suggestions, his skills as a Guide etc etc etc.
While all this was going on we were struggling into coats, pocketing keys, camera, phones, masks, tissues etc etc and he was basically getting under our feet with trying to be nice - and trying to persuade us to buy something.
We were politely and persistently refusing but he really wouldn't take No for an answer. We'd been warned by many people about the hard sell involved in touristy places - this was definitely it!
Having got everything together we opened the door to leave - he was standing there with 2 glasses of steaming hot Apple Tea - "free gift, made from my own apples in my own garden that the Missus grinds the fruit of when we have dried it on the tin roof in the hot sunshine and then we package it into the plastic bags" - paused for breath as he produced a bag of dried apple grindings from behind his back - "and this is only costing 200TL and if you are going to the Ephesus then my son is the taxi driver to take you there and on the way he will take you to buy rug or carpet for taking home when you go back to England" He had to stop for breath again at this point so I took the tea, asked John for some cash and waved at the floor - "We don't have a house in England - this is our house and a carpet won't fit!" He looked quite disappointed!
He took some convincing that we wouldn't buy anything other than the tea but called over to his son to take us up the hill to Ephesus. The journey seemed to be a bit longer than we expected - then we turned into a carpet warehouse with people waiting outside to greet us!
John was polite - frustrated and adamant - but polite, "NO NO NO we do NOT want any carpets we only want to go to the top!" A rapid U turn took the waiting carpet salespeople by surprise as we exited!
When we arrived, the son/taxi driver wouldn't take John's money - but more about that later!!
We walked towards the Entrance gates with various locals calling out to us repeatedly. We ignored them and kept walking then one of the Guides at the Entrance stepped forward - "Excuse me Sir, but you didn't pay for parking".
"We don't have a car, we came in a taxi!" we explained and were eventually believed.
Tickets for entrance to Ephesus were 120TL each and 55TL extra if you wanted to go into the Terraced houses. Don't let the words "Terraced Houses" fool you - we're not talking Eastenders or Coronation Street - the Terraced Houses are well worth the extra cost!
I've spoken of needing more time than you realise when speaking of other sites - for Ephesus you could come every day for a week and still need more time. Built in 10c BC it was once considered to be the most important port city in the Mediterranean and was conquered and re-conquered many times over. The Theatre can seat 24,000 people and is still in use today for modern day performances.
The marble used for floors, walls, roofs, columns, portico's sarcophagi isn't slippery when wet thank goodness or I for one would be in hospital by now. In Summer it's advisable to wear cool clothing, sunhats and sunglasses and to carry water bottles around with you as the marble reflects the sunlight/heat and gets very dehydrating.
We criss-cross from one side to another of the main walkways as there's so many little twists and turns and rooms and alleys to explore, each of them showing you different little delights at every turn of your head. A cherub here, a floral swag there, a lion's head roaring at you, an eagle soaring!
We head into the Terraced houses - a group of 6 luxury homes! They were abandoned after a series of Arab raids and the silting up of the harbour caused the city to be moved elsewhere. Landslides buried the houses and therefore preserved them almost immaculately.
They had living and dining rooms downstairs and bedrooms upstairs. A fountain, bath and hot and cold running water - luxury. Restoration work shows us how they would have looked at the time. You go up a series of staircases with glass floors so that you can look down into the rooms and see the mosaic floors, the painted murals on the walls - it's wonderful!
A section of house wall next to me has bits of sculpture and odd chunks of marble shoved into holes between the bricks - infill! As if the local builder's apprentice made a bad job of his bricklaying and just bunged something in the gaps to fill the void! It's - human!
We come away with a feeling of delight - and despair! The delight -I want to touch and photograph absolutely EVERYTHING to get that connection to the past, the people, their lives. The despair - we have to move on, but I really want to stay and go round it all again! Time is against us though.
We head back to Dippy and as we turn towards the car park we see Sultan getting out of his car ready to harangue us again! I say to John "I'll distract him, you get Dippy unlocked and start the engine!" I gird my loins as if I'm a Gladiator of old and tackle Sultan as he tries to head John off - "Sultan - you wanted me to do a review in your book, get me your pen!" He tells me "No, the man will to do it!" -turning to follow John. I stopped dead - "No - it's my job to do reviews, BUT if you don't want one then we'll just go!"
He got his review - but then told me that as we'd not gone to the carpet warehouse (the Manager had phoned him to tell him!) then we had to pay his son 100TL for the taxi ride. I told him we'd offered his son the 100TL but he'd refused to take it.
"Son not allowed take money! You pay me now!" He got the money - but obviously didn't realise that my review in his book ended with the words "You can tell it to the Marines!"
We had a quick chill out and then went back to the same Chinese Restaurant we went to last night - the Hong Kong Marina. The food was again delicious, the staff again attentive and they and the owner more than pleased to see us. We highly recommend eating there if you come to this delightful spot!

 

[frwjd]

Day 111
Friday 25th February
Good morning!
We were going to move on today but have decided to visit the market and get some "errands" done -
Mifi top up
Another month of prescriptions
Haircut for me
Collect washing from laundry
New battery for meat thermometer
I'm sure there are a couple of other things I can't remember, there always is?
A beautiful sunny start to the day but only 9C forecast.
It's weekend have a good one

Day 111
We woke to no Internet today, so I had a wander up to the site office but no-one was there for a quick word. I'd expected to find someone waiting for us as we'd been told there was no need to pay in advance - they would trust us to pay when we left.
I started back to Dippy and heard someone calling me - when I turned around there was a young man emerging from the pool - which was closed - a mop in hand.
I asked if we could stay another day - "no problem" was the answer. I asked about the Internet connection - "later maybe" was the answer to that one! My answer - "Later? Ok - we'll leave now then, please. If there's no internet then I need to pay the bill so we can go somewhere else!" Suddenly - he managed to find the time to fiddle with it and all was well!
Connections restored, we had a quick catchup and then went in search of a Turkcell to top up our system and a haircut for John. We also wanted to see the local Market, which we'd heard a lot about.
We took a taxi to the main part of Kusadasi and had quite a conversation with the driver, whose English was excellent. He told us he'd returned home to Kusadasi in 1996 after his education finished and was married to a Teacher. He'd been a Guide for the local Tourist companies and worked with the Cruise ships tourists. However, Covid decimated the Tourist trade so he joined his Dad's taxi business.
His comments about Cruise ships and tourists were the same as we'd heard from the restaurant last night - the tourists come on the ship, disembark onto a coach, visit a site, return to the ship - and leave! They don't meet the people, learn about the culture or spend their money in the local shops to keep the economy going and people in jobs.
He dropped us at the market - all under cover and on (I think) 3 floors. The place was heaving! It was Fruit and Vegetables today - Friday - and we're told that local people do a weeks shop in one go if possible. If they run out before the week is up then the fruit and veg is there again on a Tuesday.
The sight, sound and smell whisks me back to the Walthamstow High Street market where I was brought up. My Half-brother, Frank worked on the fruit and veg stall next to the Live Eels stall and I'd watch them in fascination when Mum sent me to get the shopping.
The stall holders are competing loudly with each other to get the most customers. The crowds are milling about, children running, darting between adults legs and generally getting underfoot.
We're assaulted by the smells, the tang of oranges and lemons, the sweetness of strawberries. The earthiness of potatoes and carrots, cabbages and kale. We ask for half a kilo of strawberries - the stall holder grabs 2 handfulls, dumps them in a carrier bag, onto the scales, hand out for money - all in the blink of an eye!
We bypass the fish and meat stalls as we're not sure how long we'll be away from a fridge!
Turkcell is next on the list to top up the Wifi system - which is achieved quite quickly this time in comparison to the previous time! It's also a lot cheaper!
A quick wander down the main street and we spot a sign for a Barber's Shop. We enter a small space, just 4 seats at the sinks for customers and a bench for waiting on. The Barber is welcoming and sits John down with a flourish.
He opens a drawer and brings out a variety of electric trimmers - John asks for a "Number 3" and the man puts out his hand and waves it at the impressive line of certificates and Diplomas - he knows his stuff!
A large tissue strip is inserted between John's neck and the cape covering him, to stop the trimmed hairs from irritating his neck. John gives a nod of approval and the man smiles.
With a flourish - he starts. John watches him keenly in the mirror - man or woman, we all know the nervousness of going to a new hairdresser who doesn't know how you like things to be!
I watch in fascination - he's so gentle! Something that John later compliments him on. He trims and blends with such smooth and delicate movements. His concentration is total but every now and then he catches my eye in the mirror and the corner of his mouth lifts a little.
The trimming finished, he smoothes great handfuls of white cream all over John's head - I have no idea what it is (not sure that John knew either!) and I have an insight into what John will look like when he's grey/white haired - very distinguished!
Eventually, he's satisfied and turns his attention to hot water, a cup of frothy soap and with a great flourish - a cut throat razor!! John's eyes were on stalks and so were mine!
He lathered John's face until he looked as if someone had Custard Pie'd him! Then grasped his nose firmly and begun the shave - great sweeps of his hands up, down, around his throat - Sweeney Todd came briefly to mind and I firmly pushed that thought away!
John has a couple of prominent moles on his face and the Barber gently but firmly pressed his finger on each of them to protect them.
The shave complete, some sort of lotion/after shave is applied - it smells - expensive! The white lotion applied to the hair earlier is still in place and looking like a crash helmet by now!
A pot has been heating nearby and the Barber scoops up 2 fingers full of gloop and smears it delicately - in each ear! The same is then done to each nostril! It's gently poked into place as it cools - John raises his eyebrows a little - so they're trimmed too!
The Barber beams at me in the mirror - then shows John 3 fingers as he grasps the plug of wax in his nostril. He counts to 3 out loud (in Turkish) and then yanks!!!!!!
A squeal from John tells me that the Barber has managed to uproot a tree's root system from the first nostril - and then the 2nd! Each time, the Barber shows us proudly what has been detached! It's - eye-wateringly hairy! The ears are next - this time John only whimpers - quietly!
Time to wash the gloop from the hair - this needs to be done leaning forwards into the basin - not like when us ladies have our hair washed and lay back in the chair. John emerges breathless and spluttering from the dousing!
The hair is combed neatly back into place and a lotion is applied, clear this time and with a nice smell to it. A different lotion is applied to the face and neck and is massaged gently but firmly into the skin.
The Barber's hands then knead the back of John's neck more firmly, moving onto his shoulders, back, then down each arm, wrist and fingers in succession. As he reaches each hand he grasps it and yanks firmly!
I wince - so does John! The Barber grins at me in the mirror!
Hot towels are wrapped around John's face and neck and rubbed soothingly back and forth, left draped over his face for a minute or so before being removed and After Shave applied.
Next - the hairdryer is put into action with the comb, easing the hair gently into place. Finished! The Barber grinned at me and told me "Handsome Yes? Kissy Kissy!"
It's been around an hour - maybe more. It's also been very interesting for me - let alone John. It was good to see him being tortured - er I mean Pampered! Seriously though - it really WAS good seeing John spoilt for a change!
However - his eyes watered when he got the bill! £41.25 in English money. Almost what he'd pay for a years worth of haircuts in the UK and more than twice the cost of a Turkish evening meal for 2 people!
The Barber shook hands and grinned as we left. A good days work!
We walked back - and stopped at a bar for Beer, Cappucino, and Burgers and chips. John is still in shock and keeps repeating WTF! Who gets their Ears and Nose waxed!!!! I can't stop laughing!
Definitely a day to remember!

 

[Barryh]

I thought Ephesus was brilliant. History you can touch, and really imagine folk going about their business in the ancient streets. I’ve been a couple of times but I was there in 1993 on a sultry summer’s night to watch Sting play in the amphitheater. What an experience that was. As was the “luxury” coach from whichever resort I was staying in. If the coach wasn’t broken down it was stopped at some cousins restaurant or brothers carpet shop. Maybe one day we’ll take the motorhome. Really enjoying your trip by the way. Thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[frwjd]

Wow, a fantastic memory!
Hope you do return and thanks for the kind words

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[Jays2]

That was so funny, poor John.
Apart from the cost, was he happy with the outcome.
It was worth it for the memory’s.
Thank you both for the post, I enjoy reading them.

 

[frwjd]

That was so funny, poor John.
Apart from the cost, was he happy with the outcome.
It was worth it for the memory’s.
Thank you both for the post, I enjoy reading them.

The barber was intensely meticulous!
It was an unexpected but great experience.

 

[nicholsong]

When I was flying from Antalya I went to a hairdresser in the market area and got a basic but good haircut for about £3, but that was 1991.

I would have been pissed off with the pampering - I consider my time in a hairdresser's or dentist's chair a partial waste of my life as one can't do anything else - well I cannot, as I have to take off my glasses for a haircut.

At least you will be able to dine out on that £40+ for years to come.

When has he booked a similar appointment - next week?

Geoff

 

[frwjd]

When I was flying from Antalya I went to a hairdresser in the market area and got a basic but good haircut for about £3, but that was 1991.

I would have been pissed off with the pampering - I consider my time in a hairdresser's or dentist's chair a partial waste of my life as one can't do anything else - well I cannot, as I have to take off my glasses for a haircut.

At least you will be able to dine out on that £40+ for years to come.

When has he booked a similar appointment - next week?

Geoff

I told him I'd be back tomorrow

 

[frwjd]

Day 112
Saturday 26th February
Good morning!
A beautiful day not quite spoiled by an idiotic site owner who tried to charge us much more than the price agreed. He stood in front of the van holding my windscreen wipers aloft. I had to forcibly remove the Frenchman!
We have just arrived at the famous Kirazli Koy Safrasi for breakfast, please see the link and photograph below.
A beautiful day here, hope you have a great weekend!

19 Best Restaurants in Kusadasi to Try – Turkey Things

turkeythings.com

Day 112
We left Camping Yat under quite a cloud this morning! It's the first time we've felt angry and cheated at the treatment we've received here in Turkey. However, we refuse to let it colour our feelings of the population in general!
We were soon at our first destination of the day - Restaurant Kirazli Koy Sofrasi for breakfast. The restaurant and organic farm have a great reputation for their food and it was well deserved!
We had a traditional Turkish Breakfast of Omelette, pastries, crepes, jams and preserves, honey, fruit, bread, chiy, pickles and cheeses, We were stuffed at the end of it - John has taken photos so you can feast your eyes! It cost the equivalent of £5 per head and can last 3-4 hours as families meet up to eat and chat together.
We managed to heave ourselves back into Dippy and set off up into the high hills. A large bird of prey floated gently down onto the side of the road and as we passed it launched itself across our windscreen - it was stunningly beautiful!
Off to our right was a long section of very ancient looking bridge supported on high arches. It must have been quite a sight in it's day but was now a tumbledown ruin wrapped about with vines and vegetation.
We eased into Aphrodisia - a man was straddling a motorcycle while his friend attached 2 8ft high saplings growing in black plastic buckets to the back seat. They swayed precariously about while ropes were tightened into place and John swung us round the outside one!
A quarry is to one side of us and I watch the long arm of the mechanical bucket scooping dusty stone into the back of a lorry - the dust billows out across the road.
Around a sweeping bend and as we pass the olive trees I spot a family eating lunch on the grass. A brightly coloured blanket is laid out and next to the group of Mum, Dad and 3 children there are large sacks of picked olives stacked up. The children jump up and wave furiously at us and laugh when I wave back.
We find Aphrodisia and circle it repeatedly but can't make any headway to get in and park up, so we move on towards Yaylakoy.
A mosque heaves into view to our left - it's roof is a brilliant turquoise and gold and reflects the sun in a dazzling flash as we pass. The land is flat to the left and hilly to the right as we spiral down into Soke, passing the usual array of garden ornaments and fruit stalls.
The children are spilling out of the American College of Culture to go home for lunch as we pass by. The next sight I see is a GIANT! It's an enormous gaily painted statue of Gulliver - as in Gulliver's Travels and is accompanied by tiny little statues of people - a Theme Park!
The Sat Nav has been prim and proper up until now. She tells us to turn right and as soon as we do she tells us we are going the wrong way down a one way street! John somehow manages to get us out of there in one piece although there were several raised eyebrows from other drivers!
We stopped briefly in Gullubhace having passed a metallic purple VW that my daughter would give her eye teeth for! A car park gives us breathing space for a coffee while we gird our loins for the tour of the ruined walls etc.
We look at the steep incline to reach it and decide - No. It's just a tumble of bricks in most places and we can't justify the effort when our next stop is more appealing! I take a photo of water cascading down an arched section of wall and we leave.
The journey to Mileto was through rice paddies stretching as far as the eye could see. Some were dry, some flooded, some were being drained as we passed, but I don't think we saw more than 4 people the whole way!
Mileto cost us 15TL for parking, and 25TL per person for entrance to both the ruins and the museum. Very good value.
The main section is the Theatre - a Dad was at the top of the seating with his daughters at the bottom and the acoustics were amazing! Apart from the Theatre there's not a lot there. Lots of tumbled masonry, columns etc - as there is in all these places. However, the carvings on all the fallen blocks and sarcophagi and columns was some of the best I've seen!
A section of wall at the base of the Theatre has 5 arches which dam a Pool (full of pond weed and frogs!) However - to the right hand side of the wall and down in a dip is a partially concealed entrance to - a Cave!
It's a scramble to get down there (John closed his eyes and tried not to imagine taking me to A&E with a broken arm or leg.) The cave runs behind the 5 arches and contains a Holy Well, a natural spring and it's this that feeds the Pool. At the moment though, it's flooded and is also full of frogs who splash off of the rocks inside and into the water when I appear. Such a shame!
Off to the Museum next - a short drive through the site. The Museum attendant is very interested in Dippy and our trip. He tells me he's visited England but it was too cold for him.
The Museum is small, but has some lovely finds in there as does the outside area which again has a mass of carved objects. I think about the artists who carved these things.
When we think of a painting - Gainsborough or Rembrandt will have used models to get the proportions right - the inspiration for a face or body. The sculptors here will have done the same thing surely?
That graceful thigh peeping out of the fold of a draped toga, or that rippling 6 pack on the Gladiator, or the chubby cherub. Were they modelled on Auntie Mavis, Uncle Jim, the sculptor's own baby? They must have used real people to practise their skills on!
Every surrounding field you look in has broken statues, blocks and columns just scattered around in between olive groves and even just sticking out of grass verges.
It's been the same almost everywhere we've travelled. There's so much history that down the generations it's just "normal" for want of a better word. As the building became ruined and abandoned - no matter the reason, War or Earthquake, the locals have used bits for everyday use.
A young couple a thousand years ago might have got married, and thought - "That old broken down Temple that no-one worships at anymore - we could use some of that stone to build our house, or the wall round our field to keep the goats in. etc etc. We could plant our olive trees in that field were the old buildings used to be."
Down the generations it's absorbed into general use because then it wasn't "History" to be preserved - it was something to re-cycle and re-use, never thinking that thousands of years later we'll be paying to marvel at it.

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[frwjd]

Day 113
Sunday 27th February
Good morning!
It's a beautiful day with 16C forecast, that's my kind of weather but 10C short of Wendy's!
We stayed by the beach just outside Didim last night, photo below in first comment. Today's plan is to visit Didyma and Bodrum and head towards Marmaris.
Have a good day!

Day 113
We set off early for Didim this morning, to see the Temple of Apollo. It was a small site but worth the visit - however it won't take you long to go round it!
Only 72 of it's 112 columns were completed before it fell into ruins. Three of them have been re-constructed for visitors to see but they still fall short of their original height by 3 metres or so.
A one-person wide tunnel takes you down into the Inner Courtyard where the Oracle Spring was situated - until it dried up in the 6th century BC. The tunnel slopes downward very steeply so it's a case of taking care you don't slip.
An 18km road next to the site takes pilgrims to Miletus, holy rituals being performed along it's entire length.
We take a few photos but there's not a lot else to see or contemplate, so we head towards Bodrum.
The road is bordered by the high retaining walls that herald problems with falling rocks! Not long after we set off there is a chunk of stone at the edge of the road that is the size of a Ford Fiesta! It's broken into 2 sections still linked at one edge and smaller chunks are scattered around.
Not long afterwards we enter a tunnel that takes us under the mountain - and are plunged into total darkness! The tunnel's lights - for whatever reason - aren't switched on! Luckily it wasn't too long before we were back outside again.
We pass lots of brown site markers denoting archaeological sites pointing both left and right but keep focused on our goals. A coffee stop is needed first though!
We pull into a truck stop layby with 3 lorries and a Snack Bar. Kettle on and in 5 minutes we're just lifting coffee mugs to our lips when a red and blue flashing light appears in the window next to me - a Policeman! Pointing his finger at me - and then at the road in front of us!
He pulls a bit further forward to see John and the finger points again - very firmly. The coffee is ditched and we're in our seats and moving in the space of 60 seconds!
As we pull out we realise that the entire road has been closed by a wall of traffic cones and a fleet of police cars are parked everywhere. Armed Police are stopping the approaching traffic and diverting them into this layby to be searched.
A few miles further on and John comments that there is STILL no vehicle behind us at all - nothing has cleared and left the checkpoint!
We spiral down into town eventually and get clogged down in the busy traffic, circling and re-routing to find our way to the next stop. Souvenir shops, hotels, bars, restaurants, shopping centres, and then a road that has been closed due to work laying pipes underground. John calls a halt to this stage and we abandon the visit and clear off!
We pass dainty flamingo's treading along fishing, lines of parked up boats and trailers, heavy industry - bricks. slabs of stone and marble and cement mixers. Another Police checkpoint looms up but we are diverted through it.
As we leave towns behind and head for the mountains, the rain has started. There must have been a lot of rain already as the flooding across the fields is very severe and goes on for miles. All that delineates the fields are lines of the tops of fences and walls and gates.
We spiral up and up and round. Through the low clouds and rain we catch glimpses of sea and towns and then they're gone again. The visibility deteriorates with the weather. We drop down and start to circle the coast road - another Police check! Again we are waved through.
Eventually, we reach our goal - the local car park for buses and coaches. A man paces back and forth while on his phone and we park up just along from him. Another car parks tight up to our side. 5 minutes later the man is still pacing. Still talking. Still getting wet.
The walking man comes and chats with the man in the parked car. Goes away and talks some more on his phone. Comes back and speaks to the parked car again! I mutter quietly to John - "Do you think he's a drug dealer?" John's not sure either, but we're - uneasy.
The man taps on our window - "If he offers you drugs don't accept!" Not that either of us would!!!
The other man has got out of the car and joined him - I'm considering getting the vegetable knife from the cutlery drawer!
He apologises and makes us understand that his car has broken down - his battery is flat!! John gets the jump leads and I mentally put the vegetable knife back in the cutlery drawer!
The man from the car hooks the leads up between the 2 cars and within 5 minutes the man is on on his way, thanking everyone profusely for helping him.
He wasn't a drug dealer at all, but I'm still a little uneasy! "John - what if it wasn't his car and we just helped him steal it
15 minutes later he's back - with 2 big boxes of Baclava - 1 for each of his rescuers and much hand shaking.
We had a quick walk round the closest shops so that we have our bearings for the morning and then into a restaurant for 2 Turkish Pizzas with meat and cheese, a bowl of salad, Paprika and Cumin on the side and 2 Cokes (they didn't serve beer!!)
The cost was 60 TL - which is £3.30p

 

[frwjd]

Day 114
Monday 28th February
Good morning!
Today we start our 4th week in Turkey and we love it more each day.
Our investigation into obtaining a visitor visa to extend our stay looks very promising but it seems we must apply within 4 weeks of entering the country and we can't achieve that.
Not to worry as we can do that later in the year.
A cloudy 14C for today's exploration of the lovely town of Marmaris and heading to Dalyan later in the day.
Have a good day!

Day 114
We woke in the car park in Marmaris to a grey day again, cold and drizzly. We set off walking around the Bay, the amount of litter along the beach is demoralizing. As we begin to pass the more upmarket hotels and shops the beach improves to being litter free and neatly raked.
Expensive cars tour the beachside roads, revving their engines to see who can sound the most impressive. Glass bottomed boats and diving trips are advertised every few yards and then give way to the expensive private yachts.
We stop for a hot glass of chiy in one of the side streets and watch people going about their daily business, people off to work and children shopping with their parents.
The shop facing me is a Tailor's - not something you see often in UK now but a regular feature when I was a child growing up in London. A customer pulls a pair of trousers out of a bag and shows the tailor he's broken the zip.
In today's throwaway society they might just have been binned but here - the tailor takes them and matches the colour of the trousers to a new zip and deftly cuts the stitching to loosen the broken one. In 5 minutes the job is done and the repaired trousers handed back.
We walk along the shopping centre drinking in the atmosphere, the sounds, the different smells of all the spices as we pass stalls laid out with Parpika, Cumin etc.
When we reach a cooking utensil shop, John disappears into it's depths - it's like an Aladdin's Cave for him! I wait outside on the pavement, idly watching a Traffic Parking Warden.
She photographs some number plates, writes out tickets and places them under the car's wipers. There's a Bosch office block next to me and she sticks her head in their door. A man comes out and after a quick conversation he points to 3 cars. She goes to the remaining 4 and writes out tickets for them! An irate driver rushes out of the shop and remonstrates with her - she ignores him!
By this point, John has emerged from the shop with a big grin on his face and a box containing 6 chiy glasses and saucers and a set of spoons! Glass objects in a Motorhome going over bumpy roads is not a good mix ! We've already managed to demolish his wine glasses and are down to the last 1 - but we'll manage!
The rain has started to absolutely tip down and we stop for another glass of chiy while we wait for it to ease off. The lady serving us sees the box of chiy glasses and tells me something - which I unfortunately don't understand but she gives the glasses a thumbs up of approval.
When we leave she refuses payment from us. The cost to us is only a few pence but what is worth so much more to us is the generosity of hospitality that we have been met with in Turkey.
The Sat Nav is made redundant in the first 100 yards of leaving the car park! We circled the same area too many times for it to be a coincidence. To be fair though, there are a lot of roadworks at the moment while it's the Winter season and many of the roads are closed.
We head slowly along a busy main road and suddenly a small child darts almost under our wheels from behind a parked car. John manages to kink left as his Mother grabs the boy's hood and drags him back!
Once clear of the town we rapidly start to climb upwards, there are literally hundreds of small waterfalls pouring off of the cliff face next to us, filling the drainage ditches to overflowing.
On the way back down a concrete barrier has been erected where the rocks have smashed through the retaining wall, leaving it scattered around the area.
A Police road block looms ahead of us and we prepare to be pulled over but are waved through as they hurry to block the lanes off after us.
At Kavakara we turn off the road and are again travelling through orange and lemon groves and fields, lines of bee hives in bright colours and little stalls with fruit and veg.
The houses here are very tumbledown, and there's lots of rusty corrugated iron propping up walls. One 2 storey house is having a 3rd storey and new roof put on and the men are sheltering from the rain while they have a break.
Eventually we arrive at Dalyan and circle the area trying to reach Dalyan Camping. We circle repeatedly but the site is elusive! When we do find it it's so tucked away that we can't see the entrance! John parks and pops across the road - but the road is blocked with parked cars and we can't get in - so off to the local car park!
In some ways it did us a favour! We parked up and went looking for a beer and coffee. Whilst drinking both, a car pulled up and 2 ladies emerged while their menfolk parked up. English voices!
We'd been discussing the fact that 2 friends in UK had recommended Tez Bar (which was where we were sat!) and that they'd mentioned an English friend living in Dalyan had recommended it to them!
I decided to bite the bullet and risk being re-buffed, and went in and asked the 2 ladies if by any chance they knew my 2 friends from UK? They didn't - and I was a little embarrassed but they were very kind and we were soon all chatting.
When they realised we were touring and had a Facebook page it rang a bell and they checked us out! We spent the next couple of hours chatting happily with them and it was very interesting and extremely useful to get their views on living in Turkey rather than only visiting!
So - a BIG thank you to Sue and Jack and David and Denise for answering so many questions for us!

Marmaris harbour ....

 

[Jays2]

Just read all you posted on Facebook, your description and your photos put me with you on your journey.
Thank you for all the effort it takes to write, either in a journal , or online for us all to share. ( I do prefer that you share!)
You are inspiring me every day.
thank you

 

[frwjd]

Day 115
Tuesday 1st March
Good morning!
Showers and 13C forecast for today so we'll have a lazy morning and possibly spring clean the van, though currently no enthusiasm for that
We may move on later
Have a good day!

Dinner tonight was two chicken kebabs with pita, rice and two salads with a coke and 500ml beer.
Total £7.40.

Day 115
Another of our "quiet days" today. It rained on and off all night - noisy when you don't have a real roof! The rain carried on for almost the whole of today and it's perishing! I'm surprised we didn't have snow!
Cleaning chores have been done - except the floor, which is a pointless exercise when every time you go out you trek muddy water back in with you!
Emails to non-Facebook using friends have been written and sent and reassurances sent to my kids that Mummy is still in the land of the living!
When we met up with some ex-pats yesterday we swopped "What do you miss" comments. Family was top of the list followed closely by friends. Although you may keep in touch with family via text/email/Messenger etc it's not the same as that feeling of giving and receiving a great big hug!
Similarly with friends - emails are great but the interaction of being in the same room and conversing with people is more stimulating - and satisfying.
For John - I would say that it's the same but also adding in the monthly wine tasting meetings with the circle of friends that he's been attending for almost 20 years. They still often shake their head at him taking up with someone who rarely drinks!
Most food and drinks we enjoyed in UK have been available on our travels - Anchor butter has been unobtainable (so far!) and a really good, strong cheddar would go down a treat some days! Especially grilled on a slice of Hovis wholemeal and topped with a spoonful of red onion relish. Mmmmmm!
I miss signs in English - not just because I would then understand what they meant but also because I have a visual brain. (not sure I can explain this one easily so bear with me!)
In England - my head would be continually swivelling left and right as I read the signs - it didn't matter what they were about or whether they were of interest or not. My brain just needed to see - and spell - and read. Since being abroad I find that my brain has slowed down considerably - because it can't unscramble the foreign words so it's not getting the stimulation it used to get! Is anyone else like this - or is it just me?!!
Is this how Countdown was invented?
I miss having a garden. A garden can be the most relaxing place you can be. The scenery around us is fantastic at times, and has the benefit of not having to do the work involved in making it look good - but that work can be very therapeutic. Only once in my lifetime have I lived somewhere that had no garden - I hated it.
The other "therapy" I miss - is Archery. A sport I used to teach to adults and children as well as do, up until I met John and moved away from Suffolk. It's good for mind, body and soul and something I may consider going back to at some point. You never know! A few of "my Archers" are following these posts!
What do you think you'd miss if you went away for an extended travel abroad? Let me know.

 

[frwjd]

Day 116
Wednesday 2nd March
Good morning!
Another wet day here and just 11C forecast. Much better weather starts tomorrow!
We're moving on today, no far, just to a campsite on the coast where we can hitch up to their electric and fill with water as well as draining grey and black water.
A few snaps of Dalyan below. This Dalyan is on the Turquoise Coast whereas the last Dalyan we stayed at was north of Izmir.
Have a good day

Torrential rain and thunderstorms here. We've moved 30 minutes away closer to the sea, floods everywhere. Better weather from tomorrow, we hope.
This is a beautiful spot, next to the river and a short walk to the sea.
EHU, showers, WC, water plus grey and black water drain.
Sarigerme, Turquoise Coast, Turkey
£3.24 a night!!

Day 116
The rain poured down for most of the night and we also had new neighbours arrive - quite late and very noisily!
While we were having breakfast 2 Tour coaches parked up. 5 people got out of one and disappeared up the road. The 2nd one had just a driver - who proceeded to wash his coach down, the rain washing the suds away.
Half an hour later a crowd of teenagers trouped onto the car park and were herded onto the coach - a school trip off out somewhere. The 2nd coach - now sparkly clean left soon after.
We'd finished breakfast by then. Ham and cheese toasties! The packet containing the ham was supposed to be veal ham but the picture on the packet more resembled a Yak! John decided that was what it tasted like too.
Early afternoon came and the rain showed no sign of easing off so we decided to move on. We're off to a parking spot with electricity at Sarigerme. As we leave town the road narrows and we have to squeeze past an oncoming car - we take the branch of a low hanging tree with us!
The roads are flooded but passable. The scary part is that the roads have really large potholes and with the water covering them there's no telling just how deep they are. John manouveres expertly along the route though and there are no mishaps.
The climb into the mountains takes us along winding, narrow roads with occasional passing places. The mountain rears up above us on one side with waterfalls spouting out and to the other side the road drops dizzyingly away.
We pas several groups of large white plastic containers at the side of the road. They have letters on each of them. At a guess - they mark where people are living so that things can be delivered/dropped off? Although we can see no houses, just vague tracks and lots of vegetation it's the only reason I can think of!
The descent starts again and we pass flooded fields bordering the flooded roads. Around a bend we come across a lady leading 3 cows! She has an umbrella keeping her headscarf and cardigan dry but her baggy trousers are soaked through and her open sandals are caked with mud. She beams at us as we wave at her and take a photo of her cows!
The next few villages are almost deserted. There are some houses showing signs of habitation but the majority are ramshackle ruins. There are more than 20 For Sale signs along that stretch of road.
We're catching glimpses of the sea now and it's not long before we find the car park John has read about. A guard at the entrance beams at us and asks are we staying for the night and do we want electricity -Yes and Yes, I tell him. 60TL per night which is £3.24. There are toilets and showers, water and chemi loo emptying as well - all included!
The car park is quite flooded, with islands of dry-ish bits. The rain is still pouring and we now have thunder and lightning thrown in for good measure!
We circle the car park trying to find the electricity points and the guard appears with an umbrella and points the way. There's a huge, yellow All Terrain vehicle the size of a tank and with 4 ft high tyres - we park next to him!
The next couple of hours were spent sitting and waiting for the break in the weather that John's app has highlighted. When it appears, we're ready and waiting for it, raincoats and hiking boots to the fore!
The electricity points are inside the toilet block and we run out our various linked up leads across a sea of mud and water. The man from the yellow tank tells us his lead is hooked in the tree and it has a spare socket if we find we can't reach the indoor one. A kind offer! Unfortunately, having connected to it we find that we have no power coming through.
We had to wait for the rain to ease back a bit before John can brave the elements and try again with our own connection. Success!
Various devices are connected and are soon charging up. Unfortunately, having given it a head start, I turn on my HP laptop to find that although it's "charging and ready to go" light is on and flashing - it refuses to start up! I bought it Christmas 2018 and had this same problem in the summer of 2020 so I'm really NOT impressed!
The last time it happened I had to get onto the HP Support Helpline - who managed to access it remotely and fix it but I was on the phone line with them for 2 hours! The first 30 minutes were spent navigating the system until someone could help and to be fair, from that point they phoned me back so from then on the call was free. However this is not something I can afford to do anymore.
I'm lucky that John doesn't have a problem letting me share his laptop!

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[Dogsense]

Following due to moving from Greece to Turkey on the 22/03/22

 

[Tony50]

Day 103
Thursday 17th February
Good morning!
Another beautiful sunny day with 17C forecast, that's positively scorching and warm enough for anyone!
It's a shame that we didn't find anywhere central to park in Ayvalik yesterday, it's an old Ottoman town and I'd have liked to explore it. But, not to worry, as we drove on to the Ancient City of Pergamon in Bergama.
Possibilities for today include a taxi to the Acropolis over looking the city and a haircut from one of the four barbers very close by.
Also a visit to the Turkcell shop so they can show me how to add credit to the data SIM. We must buy some halva! Have you ever tried halva, it's a gift from the gods!
Finally a birthday cake and 68 candles!
Have a good day, the weekend is close

Day 103 - with apologies for it's lateness due to technology issues!
It's John's birthday today but, disappointingly, my ecard to him didn't arrive, nor did the Whatsapp message I sent straight after midnight.
The photos I'd posted to this page and emails and messages to family and friends had also failed! My laptop had gamely held out until I'd posted Day 102 and had then given a last gasp and died - no electricity to re-power it and it doesn't charge from a USB.
Breakfast over, we sidestepped the trucks that had parked tight up next to us last night and set off for the Red City Museum and ruins which are to our left, just a few metres away.
The walls are high above us and the fragments of masonry and marble columns scattered around have inscriptions on some of them. Health and safety aren't an issue here - the deep holes in the ground sometimes have metal grills haphazardly balanced across them - and sometimes don't.
The souvenir seller gamely tries to sell us all sorts of things but all we need is a Guide Book in English - which the museum shop doesn't have. Eventually, he finds one and it also covers the next stop for us - Pergamon Acropolis - the hilltop city towering above us.
We're unsure of distance so take a taxi from the town centre 35TL and worth every penny! The steepness of the climb would have defeated us! the view is amazing as it stretches far across the plains and I jab John in the ribs excitedly as I spot an ancient Aquaduct! We later found out it was built in 2c BC to bring water from Mount Madra, 45kms away to a reservoir utilised by the city's
(then) state of the art water system!
Our entrance tickets cost 68pence each plus extra for an audio guide - John's passport is kept as ransom for it's safe return! we set off around the information boards, stepping cautiously on the wooden ramps and walkways - many are rotten in places so you need to watch your step.
There's an awful lot to take in on this site - even with the audio guide. The overall feeling is one of sheer awe! You crisscross back and forth as something new catches your eye and draws you in. The silence is LOUD!
The Temple of Trajan still has 6 of it's 32 columns standing. At a height of 10mtrs even without it's roof, it's impressive and the carvings are still delicately and intricately detailed.
The Theatre was capable of holding 10,000 spectators and you can imagine the wall of noise from the roar of the crowd cheering and applauding! Or booing!
We reach a section where the artefacts are laid in rows on the ground, the hot sun beating down on them as we walk along the line. Pillars, columns, architraves, porticos. They were stored here when the excavation of the sight was abandoned and there is a wooden shed to one side with padlocked doors - by peering in through the bars you see wooden trays of fragments gathering dust.
We emerge onto a level raised platform and I can't help myself - spreading my arms wide I declare (in my best Cockney accent) "Muckers, Romans, Countrymen - lend us you lug'oles!" John is not amused!
Our attention is drawn to a well with a column nestled inside it, ending a few feet below the surface, it has a few tiny coins atop it and lots of them far below. A wishing well! John has a couple of attempts at tossing coins on but to no avail. I toss a stone - successfully. John hands me a coin and we both try again - I succeed and mentally hand him my wish as a birthday present.
We head back to the entrance for a cold drink, regretting it was so late in the day and we couldn't stay longer. There's a cable car - which we don't take, deciding to walk.
The hill is steep and curves back and forth. Parts of the road have slipped away down the hill and the metal fencing is unsupported in areas.
Every step we take is next to evidence of the hills history - 3ft lengths of marble columns poke out of the grass like pointing fingers. They're more or less at my head height so easily seen.
Great chunks of dressed stone litter our route and have been shoved aside by the road builders. High above us the ramparts and flying buttresses of even more city walls follow us downwards.
A double arch of dressed stone appears next to me with a recess into the darkness. I scramble off the road and poke my head in - it's only 3 ft high and 9 feet across with a paved floor! Why!
We reach the end of the hill and miss the turn by just a few metres and a car draws up to us. The teenage passenger leans across the driver (Dad) and asks where are we from? Our reply makes him grin - he's Turkish and here visiting family, but he lives near Gatwick Airport!
This site should not be missed if you have the chance to see it - it's absolutely wonderful. However, be prepared to take your time and enjoy as much of it as you can - it's enormous!

Have you been to Ephesus in western Turkey, we did go there a large Roman Town , what most impressed us apart from the site is the use of pipes for drainage and carrying away waste from the toilets, that were. All in a row, proves they were way ahead of us on that time

 

[NoName]

Hi, we’re here at the moment (in another Rapido) 7 weeks into our 90 days. I was going to put a few words together when we return but you have covered most of them. I’ve cobbled together a list of stops (so far) that may help you, or anybody else for that matter. Bear in mind we’re keen on beaches, small towns and markets as opposed to the historical sites. I’m crap on Google maps etc so if someone could combine the maps that would be great.

As well as the usual suspects, Kas, Kalkan, Fethiye, Dalyan, I can recommend Akbuk cove, it’s a lovely stop right on the beach (we stayed 3 nights) together with Cirali beach (stay on the old football pitch) and visit the “flaming stone” and Pamukkale so far.

Even though they’re on the list I would avoid Akyarler and Akbuk (different place to the cove) as they’re literally construction sites and Koycegiz was hard work down to all the surrounding roads being closed for resurfacing.

If you haven’t already, have a look at “Our Bumble”blog on Turkey, it’s the best out there imv for Turkey and everywhere else they’ve been for that matter.

Hope this helps

All the best

View attachment 587624View attachment 587625View attachment 587626

Thank you, the maps and locations will be useful for when I get to Turkey. I’ve enjoyed your ramblings; verbal and travel!
I’m frustrated, as I had intended a year long trip but due to my age, medical insurance seems to be limited to 6 months unless anyone can advise me otherwise? 72 years old last December. Fit and active with no major health issues.

 

[Jays2]

Day 115
Tuesday 1st March
Good morning!
Showers and 13C forecast for today so we'll have a lazy morning and possibly spring clean the van, though currently no enthusiasm for that
We may move on later
Have a good day!

Dinner tonight was two chicken kebabs with pita, rice and two salads with a coke and 500ml beer.
Total £7.40.

Day 115
Another of our "quiet days" today. It rained on and off all night - noisy when you don't have a real roof! The rain carried on for almost the whole of today and it's perishing! I'm surprised we didn't have snow!
Cleaning chores have been done - except the floor, which is a pointless exercise when every time you go out you trek muddy water back in with you!
Emails to non-Facebook using friends have been written and sent and reassurances sent to my kids that Mummy is still in the land of the living!
When we met up with some ex-pats yesterday we swopped "What do you miss" comments. Family was top of the list followed closely by friends. Although you may keep in touch with family via text/email/Messenger etc it's not the same as that feeling of giving and receiving a great big hug!
Similarly with friends - emails are great but the interaction of being in the same room and conversing with people is more stimulating - and satisfying.
For John - I would say that it's the same but also adding in the monthly wine tasting meetings with the circle of friends that he's been attending for almost 20 years. They still often shake their head at him taking up with someone who rarely drinks!
Most food and drinks we enjoyed in UK have been available on our travels - Anchor butter has been unobtainable (so far!) and a really good, strong cheddar would go down a treat some days! Especially grilled on a slice of Hovis wholemeal and topped with a spoonful of red onion relish. Mmmmmm!
I miss signs in English - not just because I would then understand what they meant but also because I have a visual brain. (not sure I can explain this one easily so bear with me!)
In England - my head would be continually swivelling left and right as I read the signs - it didn't matter what they were about or whether they were of interest or not. My brain just needed to see - and spell - and read. Since being abroad I find that my brain has slowed down considerably - because it can't unscramble the foreign words so it's not getting the stimulation it used to get! Is anyone else like this - or is it just me?!!
Is this how Countdown was invented?
I miss having a garden. A garden can be the most relaxing place you can be. The scenery around us is fantastic at times, and has the benefit of not having to do the work involved in making it look good - but that work can be very therapeutic. Only once in my lifetime have I lived somewhere that had no garden - I hated it.
The other "therapy" I miss - is Archery. A sport I used to teach to adults and children as well as do, up until I met John and moved away from Suffolk. It's good for mind, body and soul and something I may consider going back to at some point. You never know! A few of "my Archers" are following these posts!
What do you think you'd miss if you went away for an extended travel abroad? Let me know.

We both love going away in our camper.
I also like coming home and walking around to see what had grown, what had changed, that’s the best thing I find about arriving home.
But home comes with obligations ( cutting the grass ) for one. Also the more things you have at home, they all required attention. If you give no attention to them then they get bigger Untill you do.
A couple of days later i lambasted about the freedom that we had in our van.

To put this in prospective, we were returning from our first 6 month trip, stopped on a French aire.
2 other British vans.
We all got chatting, one couple had been on a year long trip, very chatty, but all the wife said about her trip was how much see had missed the family, and how such and such had done this or that.( soooooo boring) the husband also chatted a lot but again not an interesting 2 way chat.
The other couple in a box van conversation and tattoos up to the neck, had the most interesting outlook on life and great 2 way conversation.
So to answer to your Question, I miss both aspects and both have their challenges .

 

[Molly A]

Day 115
Tuesday 1st March
Good morning!
Showers and 13C forecast for today so we'll have a lazy morning and possibly spring clean the van, though currently no enthusiasm for that
We may move on later
Have a good day!

Dinner tonight was two chicken kebabs with pita, rice and two salads with a coke and 500ml beer.
Total £7.40.

Day 115
Another of our "quiet days" today. It rained on and off all night - noisy when you don't have a real roof! The rain carried on for almost the whole of today and it's perishing! I'm surprised we didn't have snow!
Cleaning chores have been done - except the floor, which is a pointless exercise when every time you go out you trek muddy water back in with you!
Emails to non-Facebook using friends have been written and sent and reassurances sent to my kids that Mummy is still in the land of the living!
When we met up with some ex-pats yesterday we swopped "What do you miss" comments. Family was top of the list followed closely by friends. Although you may keep in touch with family via text/email/Messenger etc it's not the same as that feeling of giving and receiving a great big hug!
Similarly with friends - emails are great but the interaction of being in the same room and conversing with people is more stimulating - and satisfying.
For John - I would say that it's the same but also adding in the monthly wine tasting meetings with the circle of friends that he's been attending for almost 20 years. They still often shake their head at him taking up with someone who rarely drinks!
Most food and drinks we enjoyed in UK have been available on our travels - Anchor butter has been unobtainable (so far!) and a really good, strong cheddar would go down a treat some days! Especially grilled on a slice of Hovis wholemeal and topped with a spoonful of red onion relish. Mmmmmm!
I miss signs in English - not just because I would then understand what they meant but also because I have a visual brain. (not sure I can explain this one easily so bear with me!)
In England - my head would be continually swivelling left and right as I read the signs - it didn't matter what they were about or whether they were of interest or not. My brain just needed to see - and spell - and read. Since being abroad I find that my brain has slowed down considerably - because it can't unscramble the foreign words so it's not getting the stimulation it used to get! Is anyone else like this - or is it just me?!!
Is this how Countdown was invented?
I miss having a garden. A garden can be the most relaxing place you can be. The scenery around us is fantastic at times, and has the benefit of not having to do the work involved in making it look good - but that work can be very therapeutic. Only once in my lifetime have I lived somewhere that had no garden - I hated it.
The other "therapy" I miss - is Archery. A sport I used to teach to adults and children as well as do, up until I met John and moved away from Suffolk. It's good for mind, body and soul and something I may consider going back to at some point. You never know! A few of "my Archers" are following these posts!
What do you think you'd miss if you went away for an extended travel abroad? Let me know.

I miss nothing except our family. I love the food, I love the simplicity of living in a little home with not a lot of cleaning, I love the adventures, the encounters with nice people, I love not having a television, that thief of time.

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[frwjd]

Have you been to Ephesus in western Turkey, we did go there a large Roman Town , what most impressed us apart from the site is the use of pipes for drainage and carrying away waste from the toilets, that were. All in a row, proves they were way ahead of us on that time

Yes! An amazing site

 

[frwjd]

Thank you, the maps and locations will be useful for when I get to Turkey. I’ve enjoyed your ramblings; verbal and travel!
I’m frustrated, as I had intended a year long trip but due to my age, medical insurance seems to be limited to 6 months unless anyone can advise me otherwise? 72 years old last December. Fit and active with no major health issues.

Our health issues severely limited our insurance choices.
Staysure gave us a single trip 11 months long at 67 and 69.
I believe it's more difficult from 70 years, good luck!

 

[frwjd]

Day 117
Thursday 3rd March
Good morning!
Yesterday brought some of the worst weather we've seen, torrential rain and thunderstorms that stayed overhead.
Today is back to bright sunshine but the forecast changes by the hour.
We want to visit the fantastic ruins at Tlos and it's a mountain journey so today's weather presents our only opportunity.
So we're off to the ghost town of Kayakoy then to the Tlos ruins.
Have a good day, weekend nearly here
Kayaköy Broken Link Removed

Day 117
We prepared to leave our overnight stop by looking for a water point to fill Dippy's tank up. We found a standpipe but had no nozzle that would fit, plus we couldn't get close enough for our hosepipes to reach anyway.
In the past, we have resorted to John filling the big water containers and then filling the tank up by hand with repeated treks to a tap. This wasn't an option today as the ground between us and a tap was treacherous with deep mud and flooded ground.
I unhooked the electric lead while John took a turn along the towpath to see if he could spot an alternative tap - but no luck there either!
He returned to find me battling with "Bruno"! Bruno was a young dog who was at least part Great Dane going by the size of him - his head reached to just under my armpit! A nice enough temperament - but he wanted to play!
I rolled the electric lead round my arm and he tried to play tug-o-war with the remainder. Trying to retrieve it without him chewing through it was a nightmare I really didn't need.
I pushed him away - he thought this was a good game and pushed me back! At one point he reared up to put his feet on my shoulders and I had to duck and weave to stay upright.
We were both getting quite tangled by the time a man came to my rescue and subdued him with a few harsh words. John appeared and couldn't understand why it had taken me so long to just wind up a few yards of wire!
We set off for our journey to Tlos with the sun shining and wet fields and mud everywhere we looked. Rivers that had been dry the week before were now raging torrents of muddy water. Landslips of rock were every few feet and water poured down the mountains.
The road was lined with lemon and orange groves as far as the eye could see and great bushes of Aloe cactii. When we started to see shops again they were mostly farm machinery, pottery and - boats! The shop that stood out sold - cartwheels!
In the distance we can see that the snow on the mountains is quite far down the slopes - up until now it's been mainly just the tips that have had snow. By the time we reach Tlos the mountains have formed a semi-circle around us!
We sail through Seydikimer on a wide but bumpy road. The houses are good but the amount of accrued scrap and general rubbish is high. Everywhere we look we can see people gathering sticks, stacking logs or cutting great swathes of branches from the trees.
The Mosque however - is pristine! It's white painted walls sparkle and the gold on the roof shines like a beacon. The surrounding area of it's land is manicured and tidy.
We reach Tlos in record time and park up near some ruins that are away from the main area. We are greeted by a man who owns the restaurant near us. He assures us it is OK to park there and is a safe place - he has CCTV and so does the Ticket booth at the main entrance to the ruins. He encourages us to come in for chiy, coffee or a beer but we tell him we want to take some photos first.
We walk back a short way to the first of the ruins and are taken aback by the fact that these aren't the main attraction - there's a lot there and the scale surprises us.
Photos taken, we walk back past Dippy and to his restaurant, where he's watching out for us. Over Chiy, and segments of oranges taken from his own tree he quizzes us on where we're from, what are we doing, where have we been, where do we go next!
His English is quite good, but when we asked for 2 bottles of Coke to take with us, he poured them into beer glasses for us - so we had to stop and drink them! The good part is that the glasses were branded "Efes" which is John's favourite beer - so we actually bought the glasses from him too!
During the conversation, he asked about if we were married and laughed when we told him No! How many children had we got, grandchildren, did we work, where did we live. Did we want a meal in the restaurant tonight, breakfast tomorrow? If it was cold tonight we could come and sleep in his Mum and Dad's house as they lived next to him!
His free gift to us as we left was a small pot of Turkish tea leaves, after John quizzed him what he used!
Tlos was evidently built 4,000 years ago and was inhabited right up until the 19th century. The top is crowned by an Acropolis and
there are numerous cave tombs in the rock face. I scrambled up to look inside some of them and they're quite tiny. Smaller than I expected but - obviously - big enough for a stone sarcophagus to be interred.
Some were smaller and had shelves cut in the rock on 3 sides. One of the information boards says that after a certain amount of time the remains would be taken out so that new remains could replace them! A bit like renting the space out - then acquiring new tenants!
The path along this section is very narrow and crumbly - with one helluva drop if you slip!
The theatre could seat 2,550 people, and the lower section was a sports arena - which is evidently now used as a field by one of the farmers!
I would have liked to reach the top and seen more of the acropolis - but yet again, time wasn't on our side. We descended the steep slope and left for Kalkan.
The road was fraught with obstacles such as Cement Mixers! A tight squeeze at times and we were faced with a glare of light as we dropped into Yesilkoy. We thought it was from the many white house roofs we could see but then we realised they weren't houses - they were greenhouses and polytunnels! They went on for MILES!
We eventually reached Kalkan but it was horrendously busy and we couldn't find anywhere to easily park. We headed out the other side and ended up in a parking area overlooking the stunning turquoise bay! The view was worth the journey, but there really was nowhere to park easily so - back to Tlos!
The restaurant was all closed up and my knocking on the various doors didn't rouse anyone, so we're tucked up in Dippy, with a fantastic view of the Acropolis by moonlight, perfectly happy to be here having enjoyed yet another lovely day in Turkey.

 

[frwjd]

Day 118
Friday 4th March
Good morning!
Another good, undisturbed night's sleep and the weather forecast is much better.
This morning we'll be leaving the magnificent Tlos ruins and calling at Xanthos, Letoon, Patara and Gelemis. Hopefully we will spend the night in or around Ucagiz.
It's weekend, enjoy!

Day 118
A cold start this morning! Frost on the grass and the children waiting for the school bus were wrapped up!
A weak sun bursts through the clouds and there's just a touch of warmth in it. We're passing through Caykentiri and the sun casts a pink glow on the house walls and path.
We pass a cemetery and even though it's still only a little after 8am there's a car parked at the gates. A young looking man walks up the path carrying a bunch of bright pink flowers.
A little further on, smoke filters out from the forest. There's a small encampment of 4 tents and the smoke comes from an open fire with a pot suspended over it. Everywhere we've been there are signs forbidding fires so this stands out like a sore thumb!
We take the D400 for our visit to Xanthos which is quite a small site, but one of the oldest in Lycia and possibly the most determined!
It was demolished by it's inhabitants rather than have the enemy occupy it during a war in 545BC. A decision was made to rebuild it bigger however history repeated itself in 42AD when it was again demolished after a bitter war and then in the 10c AD after yet more wars the people gave up and deserted it. You can't say they didn't try! As we walked the paths, part of the white gravel covering the ground had been scuffed away - underneath is a beautiful but dirty floor mosaic! The city still trying to assert itself!
The road to Letoon from Xanthos alternates between 3 cars width and lovely level paving - to narrow dirt tracks with great potholes. It was tricky to find as we twisted and turned between polytunnels and greenhouses filled to overflowing with tomatoes but we got there eventually.
Letoon - is very small. It was never fully inhabited but was mainly a religious site dedicated to Leto and her children Artemis and Apollo, from the 6th century BC. The Christians also established a centre there and used stone robbed from the Temple to build their church. The site was abandoned by 7AD.
The site was very flooded and most of the masonry has just been stacked up in piles as if it was a builder's re-claimation yard! Sad, and disappointing to visit. We found it hard to get an idea of how it would have looked.
On to Patara. Now THIS was the highlight of today but I'll start with a warning!
I've mentioned in other posts about rotten boardwalks and to watch out for them. Well - I hate to use the word but I found the state of the boardwalks disgraceful! They were some sort of plastic and gave a good grip to your feet - but there were countless broken and missing sections. Handrails were also broken and sometimes left dangling in mid-air! An accident waiting to happen.
It was Lycia's main sea port and like Xanthos suffered from many wars and invasions but was always important for trade due to it's location. Today - the harbour is silted up and can be seen as extensive floodplains.
We started with the Theatre - small but with excellent acoustics!
The modern wooden handrails were broken and dangling in mid-air so we stayed on the ground!
Exiting the theatre we turned left and walked past an array of
stone blocks - each had an inscription carved on them and a translation panel. One told us that the people of Patar were honoured by the Lycean League with a gold wreath and bronze statue for their work in promoting the political advantage of the city and the League.
Many of the buildings had their wooden doors chained shut - I went in one and was rewarded with a high arched ceiling with corridors leading off. No windows were open and it was pitch black even with my torch so I retreated to the sunlight.
Outside was an enormous reed boat made by the same people who had made Thor Heyerdahl's Kon Tiki expedition. Although a bit ragged now, it was a great example!
We were now in Harbor Street - a promenade built in 1st century BC between 2 rows of shops and arcades that led down to the Harbour. It was flooded in the earthquake of 7th century BC and only 150metres of the promenade have been uncovered.
Some remaining blocks of stone delineate the shops and I sat down on one with John. I told him this was our shop - selling Wine naturally! We were taking a break from the flood of customers come to purchase our goods - newly arrived on the boat at the harbour. He indulged me and my imaginings! At that point - the Call to Prayer echoed across the water - surreal!
We walked along the edge of the promenade looking down into the discoloured water - you can still see the mosaic floor underwater!
At the end we turned left along the path and up a rise. The grass at the side is scattered with dozens of purple flowers and half buried amongst them is part of a column! A quick photo!
Retracing our steps we passed the end of the promenade and up another slope. This one was full of stacked columns and blocks. All numbered. I counted my steps - 145 to the end. Rule of thumb showed me the field was as wide as it was long - maybe a tiny touch less. Every inch of that field was covered with archaeology!
We'd been there 3 ish hours - and only covered a portion of it! This is again a place to go with a camp chair and a picnic and several bottles of water! In fact - it's a place to go back to a few times so that you don't miss anything! Fantastic!
We arrived here in the harbour town of Kaleucagiz (have no idea how to pronounce it!) and had a good meal at one of the waterside bars. We're parked up the hill on the outskirts and apart form the odd car going past it's very peaceful. Dippy may get a bath tomorrow!

 

[frwjd]

I keep forgetting to say that speeding fines and missed toll payments are recorded against your passport and are collected when you leave the country! Anyone experienced this?

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[funflair]

Looks like they have repaired it a bit since we were there,

This was the town when we were there, the electric went off every night about 7.

 

[funflair]

I keep forgetting to say that speeding fines and missed toll payments are recorded against your passport and are collected when you leave the country! Anyone experienced this?

no speeding tickets or tolls for us we were on our bikes

You said Kalkan was busy and you couldn't park,

This was Kalkan when we were there,

And this is the "old town"

Thanks for the thread it is bringing back memories.

 

[Otter Spotter]

I have been following "Overlanding Sophia", & "Tread The Globe" on You tube for the past few months, very comprehensive coverage in all things Turkey, Fabulous wild camps, friendly people, & some lovely food, but the weather through December/January & recently has been horrendous, torrential rain, even an earth quake, night time temps down to minus 2, daytime sometimes only reaching 6C.
I hope it improves for you very soon.

Yes there is also Bodgit John & Mandy, with their forthcoming book on Van Meals, its not ready yet, but seeing some of Johns meal preferences, it should be called "Eat your way to an early Coronary"

Happy travels to the OP, keep us posted on your travels.I will look forward to viewing it on ere as we dont do FB, or any social media, other than Fun.
LES

Glad you mentioned Gadget John’s eating habits, as I got told off by him when I commented

 

[frwjd]

Day 119
Saturday 5th March
Good morning!
I nearly for got to post!
Another beautiful day here on the Turquoise Coast, 16C.
We've filled up with water, emptied the black and grey waste and the floor has been swept and mopped!
Another day in Ucagiz. I really enjoy this rustic village with its beautiful harbour.

Day 119
Another quiet day for us today. Water tank was filled, waste emptied, bathroom, kitchen and floors all cleaned. Hand washing done and dripping in the shower as there's nowhere to string a washing line without possibly causing offence. A shame, as the weather this morning was warm and sunny with just a gentle breeze - perfect drying weather.
Although the date is always on my notebook I find I often forget what day of the week it is! I couldn't understand why the children were off school, then it hit me - it's Saturday!
We're parked about 100 yards from the outskirts of town, next to an olive grove and the children have had a great game of football on the concrete alongside us. It's been lovely hearing their excited chatter! I miss my job!
When I was their age we would usually go to the Park. In those days there was a Park Keeper to go to if you had a problem, or fell over and grazed your knee. It was generally a safe place to be.
Other than the Park, we all played in the street, as there were very few cars in our road in the 1950's so it was safe. One of the favourite games was Weasel, but there was also marbles, skipping, Hopscotch and Bulldog.
I spent hours on my Jacko skates - bought at a Jumble Sale by my Mum for tuppence! I got many a telling off from her for wearing them in the house, especially when I would hurtle along the upstairs landing, throw myself over the banister and land in the Hall! She often threatened to take them off of me - but never did!
My friends had bikes but I never mastered the art of riding one. One friend tried to teach me. He lifted me onto his bike (which was much too big for me) and then ran alongside it balancing me with one hand on the seat. Then, with an almighty push - he let go!
Unfortunately, my legs couldn't reach the pedals - and his brakes didn't work! I careered out into the main road and sailed across the front of the number 256 bus (to the Crooked Billet) and ended up in Susan Parker's front garden hedge! A story she dined out on for years!
I still can't ride a bike!
What games were your favourites growing up?

 

[frwjd]

Day 120
Sunday 6th March
Good morning!
The gentle rain drops during the night are continuing to fall and are expected to last until early afternoon. Forecasted temperatures are 16C today and 19C tomorrow!!
We haven't planned our day yet so not sure if we will stay here or move on.

Day 120
It rained for most of last night but not enough to disturb us. What disturbed me was the amount of cars going past with stereos going full blast, people walking past talking loudly and a couple of very big construction vehicles. I was almost glad to get up.
We had a slow start, and topped up the water again before leaving for our next archaeological site - Arykanda.
Our route took us yet again into the sea of Polytunnels that are the life blood of the area. Oranges and tomatoes can be glimpsed inside as we flash past them. Every area has them, just in different quantities. They're also in some strange places! Today, I saw several that were literally perched on narrow ledges of soil - cliff to one side and deep drop to the other! A precarious way to earn a living!
The lemon trees are in full fruit now too, and I've been told that peaches will be the next fruit to look out for. The blossom is falling from the cherry trees too, looking like drifts of confetti on the wind.
As we pass through Demre, John tells me it's where Santa Claus (Saint Nicholas) lived at one point. He is reputed to have dropped gold coins down the chimneys of dowerless women so they could marry.
The polytunnels had stopped as we reached the town but then suddenly re-joined us as we sailed out the other side. A long stretch of them are opposite a Sports field where children are playing football. The Dad's are all on the sidelines, chatting between themselves and cheering their lads on.
The road weaves back and forwards around the mountain and we go past a long stretch of completely deserted beach. A few cars are parked further on and some people are clambering down some rough hewn steps in the cliff, armed with what looks like it may be a picnic!
A sign appears to tell us we are approaching Beymelek Lagoon. A patch of grass to the side has a flash of bright colours - a family sat on rugs on the grass eating lunch. Two children are playing a game of tag, running around their parents as they laugh at them.
The Lagoon is huge! It's also beautiful! The colours are so vivid that I wish I could paint them! The barest of breezes ruffles the surface of the water. A handful of geese are floating sedately just off shore as a Cormorant sits on a rock with his wings spread - drying them in the sun.
A sharp bend in the road shows a crushed and dented barrier on the sea side, glass is scattered around the ground. Before we know it John is braking to avoid goats on the road, concealed around the bend.
As I look past his shoulder, I can see that the road ahead curves to the right and that at the foot of the cliff is a tiny bay of sand and a huge cave - I manage to get a quick photo! As we get a bit nearer I can see 2 people down there, sat on the sand. They appear dressed so can't have swum there - there must be a way down.
This has been a stunning route - the shame of it though is that the repeated sharp bends have taken all John's concentration to keep us safely on the road so he hasn't been able to enjoy it as much as me.
We stop at Finike for fuel - and the language barrier escalates into mayhem as we try to get 40 litres of diesel! We've had this before - so I now write 40 on my pad every time and show it to the man at the pump. I do this.
His colleague comes over to help and reads out our registration number as it has to appear on the ticket.
He then asks John - we think - are we sure we want 40? We say Yes. He argues this point - in Turkish - so we have no idea what's going on!
He writes 40 on his palm with his finger. We nod Yes. He does it again. We agree. He takes my pen and pad and writes 40 and tells me - "Kukra" (not sure of spelling but that's the sound!) He then motions for me to say it - listens. Signs for me to repeat it. Listens. By then, I'm in fits of laughter and so is he!
He then makes me repeat the word for litres - spelt the same but different pronounciation. Then I have to say 40 litres again - he corrects my accent!
At this point he takes out a HUGE wad of notes and starts giving me a rundown of words for 20, 50, 100, 200 waving the notes at me with each word. We're both in fits of laughter at this when John taps away on Google translate on his phone and shows the man the message - "She's worth more than that!" pointing to the wad of notes! The man agrees!
We leave - and have to drive round a random horse walking along the road - by himself! We often see goats and horses where their grazing will keep the grass down - but they're usually tethered! Today we've had the horse, 2 loose cows and 5 loose goats!
We pass cave tombs in the cliff as we enter Arykanda and come across a group of people filling containers of all sizes at a waterfall cascading down the cliff face. They fill the boots and back seats of their cars, and pickup trucks are doing the same. One elderly woman fills her saucepan and wanders off - she only needed enough for her vegetables!
We come to a grinding halt as the road we're taking stops immediately in front of us and is replaced by a dusty track. It's VERY steep and only a car width wide! However, that's where we're meant to go for the Ancient ruins of Arykanda!
We find that the track is the only access, pedestrian only, extremely steep and is 3km there and 3km back and the site closes in 30 minutes. A shame - but not for us today!
Most of the ruins are 5C BC and were ruled by the Persians, then Alexander the Great conquered it, then it was ruled by the Ptolemies, the Seleucids , then Rhodes, eventually becoming part of the Lycean League. It's inhabitants abandoned it in the 6th century AD and moved elsewhere.
We decide to return to Finike and we find a lovely spot on the harbour. A knock at the door introduces us to Muamer - who welcomes us and we have a lovely chat - but he wants us to come to his shop and drink tea with him - and all we want to do is eat and go to bed. He was very persistent - and John had to be equally politely persistent in telling him NO! Thank you!
That's what you get for opening the door to strangers!

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