2000w pure sine wave inverter recommendations

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A big thank you to everyone who has helped me with this project, it's all working well now. One strange thing when I checked the supply voltage with my 16th edition test set it only showed 115 volts when I used a multimeter it showed 238 voltsView attachment 766508View attachment 766509
Maybe because the inverter is an isolated output.
 
i would get the 3000w renogy to future proof your setup ....!

i have a 3000w Renogy and a 304A Fogstar lithium - here are a coupe of examples of appliance use - for the short time they are on they don't

This is the electric kettle -

Screenshot_2023-06-09-08-54-06-271_yep.fogstar.jpg



This is the electric toaster

Screenshot_2023-06-09-08-46-47-183_yep.fogstar.jpg


With the 3000w inverter, I can have them both on together (though we didn't on this occasion), with the 2000w I think it might be pushing it a bit, but who knows ....
 
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I am bit confused, you mention the C5 rate, yet my batteries have c20 stamped on them, does that mean they could produce more or less current for a longer or shorter time ? These batteries are sealed, flooded lead acid.

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Well I might as well confuse you fully. :LOL:

C20 rate is the discharge rate they use for capacity of a leisure battery.

The C20 rate for a 100 ah battery is 5 amps (100/20). So discharged at a steady 5 amps it will be 100 ah.

The C5 rate is the maximum recommend discharge rate for a lead acid battery.
C5 rate for a 100 ah battery is 20 amps (100/5).

The higher rate that you discharge a battery at the lower the capacity, a 100ah battery discharged at C5 will only give you about 90 ah.
 
C20 rate is the discharge rate they use for capacity of a leisure battery.

The C20 rate for a 100 ah battery is 5 amps (100/20). So discharged at a steady 5 amps it will be 100 ah.

The C5 rate is the maximum recommend discharge rate for a lead acid battery.
C5 rate for a 100 ah battery is 20 amps (100/5).

The higher rate that you discharge a battery at the lower the capacity, a 100ah battery discharged at C5 will only give you about 90 ah.

Thanks, I found that info on line just as you replied.

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Message for the ex Gardsman now you know why it took me 2 years to understand and get the right equipment together that suited us A complete & utter minefield
 
Well I might as well confuse you fully. :LOL:

C20 rate is the discharge rate they use for capacity of a leisure battery.

The C20 rate for a 100 ah battery is 5 amps (100/20). So discharged at a steady 5 amps it will be 100 ah.

The C5 rate is the maximum recommend discharge rate for a lead acid battery.
C5 rate for a 100 ah battery is 20 amps (100/5).

The higher rate that you discharge a battery at the lower the capacity, a 100ah battery discharged at C5 will only give you about 90 ah.
With one small observation, if a battery is 100ah at C/20, then at C/5 it won’t be 100ah anymore. Don’t forget peukert, it will be more like 180ah at C/5.
Also, many batteries will no be able to deliver a C/5 for more than few mins. A C/10 is the sweet spot for any lead,
 
But remember the idle draw will be more than the 2000
if you turn it off would the draw stop? I haven’t got mine set up to auto switch when on EHU, I have a isolator switch to switch between hook up and battery so would not expect to se any draw or am Ibeing thick?

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if you turn it off would the draw stop? I haven’t got mine set up to auto switch when on EHU, I have a isolator switch to switch between hook up and battery so would not expect to se any draw or am Ibeing thick?
Oh yeah...if you turn it off it will stop.
But also if we buy a 3000 even in use it will use possibly a couple more ah than a 1000...not a problem if you have plenty lithium but a little lead acid it can be then
 
With one small observation, if a battery is 100ah at C/20, then at C/5 it won’t be 100ah anymore. Don’t forget peukert, it will be more like 180ah at C/5.
Also, many batteries will no be able to deliver a C/5 for more than few mins. A C/10 is the sweet spot for any lead,
I know you mean 80ah ;)
 
Fun Thank You GIF by Carawrrr

A big thank you to everyone who has helped me with this project, it's all working well now. One strange thing when I checked the supply voltage with my 16th edition test set it only showed 115 volts when I used a multimeter it showed 238 voltsView attachment 766508View attachment 766509
It's isolated so will have a floating neutral. So both neutral and positive will be around 115v
 
But remember the idle draw will be more than the 2000
Just checked and this is the draw with the inverter turned on and no load on the 3000w Renogy, if someone with a 1000w and 2000w could do the same then it would inform the decision other people are making in selecting an inverter that suits their intended use ...

and yes when turned off there is no draw from the inverter...

Screenshot_2023-06-10-19-43-35-750_yep.fogstar.jpg

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Just checked and this is the draw with the inverter turned on and no load on the 3000w Renogy, if someone with a 1000w and 2000w could do the same then it would inform the decision other people are making in selecting an inverter that suits their intended use ...

and yes when turned off there is no draw from the inverter...

View attachment 766829
A great idea, but before measuring obviously disconnect solar and any other power supplies to the van or it will skew the figures.
 
A great idea, but before measuring obviously disconnect solar and any other power supplies to the van or it will skew the figures.
I will do it again tomorrow then !!
 
Just checked and this is the draw with the inverter turned on and no load on the 3000w Renogy, if someone with a 1000w and 2000w could do the same then it would inform the decision other people are making in selecting an inverter that suits their intended use ...

and yes when turned off there is no draw from the inverter...

View attachment 766829
do you have one battery or 2.

I have a 1- 1.2 amp draw on each 200ah lithium with a 2000, all inputs off, the only extra would be a possible trickle to the starter battery, and the USB plug light
 
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I will do it again tomorrow then !!
I wasn't being funny and I didn't know you had another PS inputting. I got caught out years ago trying to work out current draw and then realised the solar panels were still inputting a few amps. Everyday is a school day and all that.
 
When idling (on but no load) my 2000 watt invertor draws .8 of an amp.

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I wasn't being funny and I didn't know you had another PS inputting. I got caught out years ago trying to work out current draw and then realised the solar panels were still inputting a few amps. Everyday is a school day and all that.
I didn't take it as anything other than you trying to get an accurate current draw reading !! I think the solar was showing a positive reading of around 0.4A so suspect my reading wasn't fully accurate!
 
Here are the results from the UK votrs in the Eurovision Renogy usage competition

In Essex this evening the score was 2amps, with inverter on and no load

Screenshot_2023-06-10-23-17-09-476_yep.fogstar.jpg


These results mean that coupled with a 304Ah Fogstar battery - you could safely leave the inverter in for almost a week, without draining the battery....

And now the results from the Italian Panel .. over to you Matteo in Rome ....🇮🇹

I think it shows that the difference in standby between a 3000w and 2000w might be less than some people expect. ...
 
Well I might as well confuse you fully. :LOL:

C20 rate is the discharge rate they use for capacity of a leisure battery.

The C20 rate for a 100 ah battery is 5 amps (100/20). So discharged at a steady 5 amps it will be 100 ah.

The C5 rate is the maximum recommend discharge rate for a lead acid battery.
C5 rate for a 100 ah battery is 20 amps (100/5).

The higher rate that you discharge a battery at the lower the capacity, a 100ah battery discharged at C5 will only give you about 90 ah.

That just flew straight over my head 🙄😊
 
I think it shows that the difference in standby between a 3000w and 2000w might be less than some people expect
what means nothing to you and me with ooodles of lithium can mean a lot with someone on 150 lead acid being advised to get a 3000w inverter.
everyones setup is different in so many ways, and everyones experience/advice helps someone else
 
what means nothing to you and me with ooodles of lithium can mean a lot with someone on 150 lead acid being advised to get a 3000w inverter.
everyones setup is different in so many ways, and everyones experience/advice helps someone else

Or it could mean that a heavy duty switch is fitted into the input 12v positive feeding the inverter and just switch it on when inverter fed 240v is required.

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Or it could mean that a heavy duty switch is fitted into the input 12v positive feeding the inverter and just switch it on when inverter fed 240v is required.

That’s how I would do mine unless there is a switch fitted to the inverter.
 
Or it could mean that a heavy duty switch is fitted into the input 12v positive feeding the inverter and just switch it on when inverter fed 240v is required.
Yes but usually there is a switch on these inverters.
It's the rememebring to turn them off :rolleyes: which I fell foul too a while back.

Especially if they are wired for full circuit use and you manually change the fridge etc...recipie for disaster. Doable but not cast iron.
You can get round it with relays but best for me is a separate inverter circuit
 
The results from a Sterling 1800w pure sine wave are in and here is the score on the doors.
The good news is the remote switch works well, the less good news is 2.5A whilst sitting idle. Definitely not a switch to leave on especially on a dull day.

Screenshot_20230611-095206_Fogstar Drift.jpg
 
For comparison, the victron multiplus compact 2000va eats 12w at idle. That’s about 0.9A with lithium.
If I had the space I would have fitted a multiplus for sure, not a convincing argument to the Mrs to change the van but I will give it a go. 🤣

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