Replacing rotten flooring on Hobby 750 fmse 2001 (4 Viewers)

[Riverbankannie]

do occasionally here the water pump kicking in and wonder if this is due to a slight leak somewhere or just loss of pressure in the pipe lines after an hour or so?

Don’t ignore that, it’s more than likely a leak somewhere.

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Well I could never face doing all that but I do have similar problems and I see in one of your photos the rot in the corner by the water filler, which is exactly where I have some rot as well as up by the shower and boiler (Looking from underneath the van) I want to do the repair motorhome dude advises about re sealing the wheel arches and look forward to seeing how he does it when he posts his video...hint hint!! I do occasionally here the water pump kicking in and wonder if this is due to a slight leak somewhere or just loss of pressure in the pipe lines after an hour or so?

Lol.... you're worse than a paying customer! Everyone knows when a builder says "tomorrow" he means some time before the next ice age!

I really want to get it done soon but we've had terrible weather up here for ages and when the sun does shine, I've got a mountain of outside work stacked up that I need to deal with. I'll definitely let you know when we're filming. And thanks for supporting the channel!

Regards your pump kicking in - that shouldn't happen. There's a reason it's running and if it's running, it's pumping water somewhere.

It could be a faulty tap in kitchen or bathroom (same reason I had to change my bathroom tap) that's causing the pump to trigger occasionally. Try putting some kitchen roll in both sinks and seeing if it's wet when you check it in the morning. If it's not wet then you need to start looking at the connections.

 

[Peter Waller]

Yes thx for that....I did have this problem before about a year ago and I did find one loose connection when I took the boiler out. There are plastic y connectors that all the water pipes connect to and one of them was a little loose, i could turn it and under pressure it was leaking. Tightened it up and thought I had sorted it and put the boiler back in (After replacing the floor it was sat on, one boiler leg had fallen through). I must have another loose connection then some were else...jeeez.

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Yes thx for that....I did have this problem before about a year ago and I did find one loose connection when I took the boiler out. There are plastic y connectors that all the water pipes connect to and one of them was a little loose, i could turn it and under pressure it was leaking. Tightened it up and thought I had sorted it and put the boiler back in (After replacing the floor it was sat on, one boiler leg had fallen through). I must have another loose connection then some were else...jeeez.

Peter, you're in the right place for advice and help

Start with the obvious (faulty taps) and then work your way back to the pump checking fittings.

Our old Hobby's are pretty robust. I've heard of vans (no names mentioned) that are literally rotting away after a couple of years!

We're gently nursing 20 year old vans and they're probably still in better shape than a four year old van from a unnamed "leaky" supplier.

Just out of curiosity, where are you based in the UK? I'm in the north west and always up for a chat and a brew.

Dave.

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Hi guys,

Looks like it's going to be a dry day and Karen is free to film so we'll be doing the arch repair video tomorrow.

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[Motorhome-dude]

Well I could never face doing all that but I do have similar problems and I see in one of your photos the rot in the corner by the water filler, which is exactly where I have some rot as well as up by the shower and boiler (Looking from underneath the van) I want to do the repair motorhome dude advises about re sealing the wheel arches and look forward to seeing how he does it when he posts his video...hint hint!! I do occasionally here the water pump kicking in and wonder if this is due to a slight leak somewhere or just loss of pressure in the pipe lines after an hour or so?

Hi Peter,

I've finished the job and Karen just has to do some editing and put all the video clips in the right order then it'll be posted on my Youtube channel.

...You get a mention as well

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Hi guys,

video is up - here's the link

 

[Peter Waller]

Here is my awning

 

[Peter Waller]

Thx for the video...very informative and for sure my next job and you have mentioned my name One question...what about the wheel arches under the van? The big black covering above the 2 rear wheels..do they need a similar job to stop underspray when driving in the rain? Thx again your videos on the 750 really help for someone like me who never sees another 750!

 

[Peter Waller]

Can you tell me what width butyl tape you used please on the wheel at arches.

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[Peter Waller]

And thickness please! There are so many types on Ebay

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Thx for the video...very informative and for sure my next job and you have mentioned my name One question...what about the wheel arches under the van? The big black covering above the 2 rear wheels..do they need a similar job to stop underspray when driving in the rain? Thx again your videos on the 750 really help for someone like me who never sees another 750!

Sorry for the late reply Peter, I totally missed this post!

I don't think the water ingress has anything to do with road spray. I think it's all to do with the water washing down the sides of the van.

I'm curious to know what you've seen under your arches that you think they might need sealing as well. Can you post pictures?

If you're talking about those "bad corners" I showed in the video you can solve that with sealant or gutter sealant.

Pictures would be a great help.

 

[Peter Waller]

I am updating my cupboard doors in my hobby 750 2001 to make them look a little more modern..got the idea from the late model 750s. Looks great from the front of the cuboards but so difficult to wrap the vinyl around the curves even with a hot air gun What do you think Dave?

 

[Motorhome-dude]

Looks like a really interesting project. It's hard to visualise what it'll look like on all the doors. You'll have to do an update when you've done a few.

As far as I'm aware there's two different types of vinyl and two different ways of forming it. First one is the type you stick on glass (like sign maker's use for shop windows) you wet the area with a spray bottle with a bit of soapy water and press it around corners with a flat rubber or plastic forming tool. The other is vehicle wrapping that's heated up to allow it to go soft and bend around corners, again with a flat rubber or plastic forming tool.

What type of vinyl are you using Pete?

 

[Peter Waller]

It's a vinyl wrap for cuboard door revamps and I used a hair dryer

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[Motorhome-dude]

It's looking really smart. Are you going to do all the wood? That's one heck of a job!

I'm guessing it was your birthday? Happy birthday Pete

 

[jeffcav]

Hi Everyone, First Post so go easy , Hobby 700 2002, I have a few small patches of spongy floor, the worst being around the waterpump, how would you recommend patching them, i am thinking of cutting ply to size and fixing it in place then making an aluminium sheet to cover it below, maybe pop riveted to the sub frame, then coated in some sealant or other(recommendations ?), as i really dont want to be doing this again in 3yrs. i have fixed the leaks inside by the way.

 

[Riverbankannie]

Hi Everyone, First Post so go easy , Hobby 700 2002, I have a few small patches of spongy floor, the worst being around the waterpump, how would you recommend patching them, i am thinking of cutting ply to size and fixing it in place then making an aluminium sheet to cover it below, maybe pop riveted to the sub frame, then coated in some sealant or other(recommendations ?), as i really dont want to be doing this again in 3yrs. i have fixed the leaks inside by the way.

Your post is added onto another thread and may not get seen so I am alerting Motorhome-dude for you as another Hobby owner

 

[jeffcav]

Hi guys,

video is up - here's the link

Hi Motorhome-Dude/Dave is it, you mention your video that you can still buy the long gray rubberish strips for the wheel arches, where from? I cant find them, and after your video i am worried about this, my seals are all broken into pieces.

 

[jeffcav]

Hi Motorhome-Dude/Dave is it, you mention your video that you can still buy the long gray rubberish strips for the wheel arches, where from? I cant find them, and after your video i am worried about this, my seals are all broken into pieces.

it ok I found them on campingmarkt.eu, cheers anyway

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[Mr Wilkes]

Mint job, i'm on with mine now.

 

[HobbyCanada]

Thank you Motorhome-dude for your video on re-sealing the wheel arches. In my case, unfortunately, the damage has already been done. I am now in the process of finding a place that will even entertain such a repair. I sealed the wheel arches, nonetheless.

 

[SteveWa]

Hi everyone, so I'm almost complete! Units, toilet & shower, kitchen are in, just need to tidy up the wiring, and give it a full service and it's ready for the summer. What a journey! I'm sorry I didn't do a video like motorhome dude. Really regret that now but anyway more pictures to come

 

[Bealzebug]

Hi all,
I realise this is a very old thread but considering the experience of The contributors it seemed the best place to post some pics and ask some advice.
I started by taking apart the bathroom of my 2001 Hobby 750 after my wife felt water droplets falling on her from the light fitting in the shower. Everything had to come out when I found the problem was a snapped roof drain fitting from the corner of the roof. No idea had long it had been like that but the upholstered roof boards had all delaminated and gon rotten. On removal of the complete bathroom the walls had also been affected and the floor. Then decided to start taking apart the other side of the back of the van as the high cupboard units would need to come out to replace the affected roof boards.
OMG the other side was worse. See pics. I’m one of those types who will turn their hand to anything mostly due to necessity (pros hourly labour charges) etc.
Here are some pics.

The wall and floor wooden frame work is rotten, the wall framework upto about 12 inches fro:the floor will need replacing and most of the floor at the rear, inner and outer ply as well as the base plastic membrane. I’m leaving the bathroom wall in for now as it seems to be adding integrity to the roof and walls at the moment. The walls don’t seem to have dropped.
if anyone has taken on such a task how did you ensure the body didn’t sink when removing part of the floor. Do you need to remove the rear skirts from where they bond to the rear bumper or can all the work be carried out from the inside. Any advice on best methods,propping and adhesives would be great fully received.
Thanks in advance
Matt

 

[TheBig1]

Far too late for me to suggest you tackle it in smaller seections to maintain structural strength. What you need to do first is assemble a temporary wooden support, braced off boards on the floor. Put in an upright either side, supporting a beam across to hold the roof, with triangular bracing in the corners. take out no more than 1m sections of the lower wall at a time and replace the rotten inner supports.

Take too much support away and it will crumple like a wet cardboard box. Take your time and it is fairly straight forward to fix. Don't skimp on material either. Using lightweight board and 2 part adhesive it will be strong as new

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[Bealzebug]

Mint job, i'm on with mine now.

Far too late for me to suggest you tackle it in smaller seections to maintain structural strength. What you need to do first is assemble a temporary wooden support, braced off boards on the floor. Put in an upright either side, supporting a beam across to hold the roof, with triangular bracing in the corners. take out no more than 1m sections of the lower wall at a time and replace the rotten inner supports.

Take too much support away and it will crumple like a wet cardboard box. Take your time and it is fairly straight forward to fix. Don't skimp on material either. Using lightweight board and 2 part adhesive it will be strong as new

Thanks, just to clarify are you advising building a truss between the floor and the roof, with the support columns resting on the floor or through the floor onto the chassis or chassis steel out riggers and replacing the lower parts of the walls first?
I assume once I have rebuilt the strengoth into the lower walls and bonded in new wall plates then move onto the floor replacement?
cheers

 

[TheBig1]

Yes, the truss system propped off scrap plywood so it doesn't punch through the rot. Concentrate on putting the strength back in the walls first, replace the rotten floor with upper and lower ply joints staggered and insulated with urethane board, bonded to the ply. Then tackle the roof knowing you won't be risking putting a foot through the rotten floor as you work above your head.

These jobs are not difficult but done right it takes a lot of man hours to achieve a good solid result. I would redesign the drainage of the roof too so that a repeat is less likely in future.. Any questions, always happy to help out as have done these repairs a fair few times over the years

 

[TheBig1]

Oh and if you haven't got one already, a vibrating multitool is a much needed tool for these jobs for cutting out the rotten board. I tend to screw a temporary batten to the rotten part and running the cut along that for a straight line. If you use matching furniture ply on the walls and ceiling, the same places sell a matching cover strip. This will leave a good near OEM finish. Measure up what you need and get it delivered in one go unless you can get it locally. The courier cost is not insignificant if you have more than one batch sent. Over estimate both board and 2 part adhesive as it is surprising how much wastage will add up

 

[Bealzebug]

Oh and if you haven't got one already, a vibrating multitool is a much needed tool for these jobs for cutting out the rotten board. I tend to screw a temporary batten to the rotten part and running the cut along that for a straight line. If you use matching furniture ply on the walls and ceiling, the same places sell a matching cover strip. This will leave a good near OEM finish. Measure up what you need and get it delivered in one go unless you can get it locally. The courier cost is not insignificant if you have more than one batch sent. Over estimate both board and 2 part adhesive as it is surprising how much wastage will add up

Thanks, for all the advice, I have been using the multi tool today to release some wall board from the insulation slow but much better than a scraper.
cheers regards

 

[Bealzebug]

A bit more work today. Built some structural supports, not pretty but hopefully functional. Removed a bit more rot and soft timber

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