Day 18 - West Cork and Irish Weather (30 June 2023)

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A fair night's sleep in Castletown-Bearhaven on the sort of aire, but heavy vehicles kept hitting something noisy as they passed 50m away. I woke to the sound of heavy rain, a theme for the day. Having eventually plucked up the courage to emerge, I got soaked on the 200m stroll to a cafe for another Irish breakfast. Deciding to move on I watered the van at a pier tap (I had been unable to adequately catch the stuff falling from the sky).

I now drove out the Beara peninsula. Apparently somewhere out there is Widdy Island in Bantry Bay, used as a seaplane base in WWI by the Americans against the initial U boat threat in 1918 just before Armistice, and now a major oil terminal.

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The weather was very Irish. It was wet of varying strength rain. And it was windy. When you thought the rain might be easing as the visibility started to increase towards half a mile you would realise that judgemental error as when stopping for a likely view you knew the full force of horrible would be unleashed. And it was penetrating wetness. This was today's theme.

Having headed inwards, and rounded the corner after the busy market town of Bantry I was on another sub loop of the Wild Atlantic Way, the Sheep's Head Way. But the weather got in the way. I'm sure the twisty single tracks offered good views as there were hints of rocky and mountainy things. But the Fionn Mac Cumhaill's Seat was just a reason to get soaked to spot a statue.

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By now it was apparent today would be a write off. I headed to my anticipated overnight, Mizen Head. That was silly. Nothing to see as weather was so closed in. Worse it was so windy that it would be very uncomfortable. I decided to not pay the admission, retreat and return tomorrow when the weather forecast says it will be nicer (are Irish forecasts better than the British?)

I have ended up at Crookhaven on the Mizzen Peninsula. Somehow I have squeezed onto the waterfront quay. It's windy and has been wet. There are whitecaps in the harbour naturally formed as an inlet between two sets of rocky hills. The van is rocking side on to the wind. But as it's next to Ireland's southern most pub, it will do. Only problem with that is they serve Murphys not Guinness. I'll have to do a taste test or two.

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Author
Kannon Fodda
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