What would you like be improved about your vehicles?

Comfortable seating. I've had a few motorhomes and I've sat in maybe a few hundred and only one of those, an American 5th wheel, had somewhere really comfortable to sit in the evenings inside the van. They're all "OK" but that's about it. OK. If the cab seats swivel around then that's better but I still think there is a long way to go on general lounge seating comfort.
 
Hi.
Have a look at the designed one for the Widfax Constellation3. Maybe on others ( It would be a simple build/retro fit) just the job...And folds away,sorted .
Tea Bag

yes, that is a solution when there is a step between cab and hab. I'm not sure if it would be comfortable for someone tall though.

I was thinking more of a leg rest like on the reclining chairs we have at home! Sorry that my original post was clear.
 
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Sufficient leg room in the khazi. Fed up with banging my knees on the door while having a little sit down.
And enough worktop space in the kitchen. Glass lids on the hob and sink are fine in the day, but that space disappears totally when you're actually cooking.
Look at the Knaus 3D bathroom, the wall pulls out to give more room in the loo.
 
Just as a second thought, a 4-6 berth motorhome with a 2 berth layout would give real space for the couple owner, the problem is all 2 berths are scaled down in size no on3 seems to take a big 6 berth but fit it out as a 2 berth with loads of room....
Autocruise.jpg

The Augusta is just such a van, at 7.5Mtrs long and 4.5tonnes it has only 2 belted seats, driver & Front seat passenger, and only 2 beds. It's appeal to us that it has 3 separate rooms (yes wooden doors between them!) a lounge/Kitchen a separate bedroom, then a door thru to the rear bathroom.

It's one of the few 2 berth campers where you don't sleep in the kitchen.
 
Good afternoon everyone



I am a 2nd year university student studying transport design. My current project involves working in a team to investigate the ergonomic and inclusive design issues of camper vans and caravans and then later in the semester I will be designing and making an ergonomic rig with the rest of my team.



For us to make the best design/most user-friendly design possible, I need to know what you like and dislike and what you would like to be improved on to make living with and living inside your camper van/caravan more user friendly.



For those interested in this, could you post your experiences with these vehicles/tents (what you like, don’t like, would improve on) along with the make and model/brand of the product and possibly, if you are ok with it, an image or two of the interior of the vehicle



Thank you in advance



FB
We were caravaners for 10+ years and have just (since October 2019) transitioned to our first motorhome.

Based on our limited experience, I would say the two areas that we would seek to improve the most would be...
1. Making the cab less rattly and noisy when driving. We have been used to the quietness and smoothness of ride in our car when towing our caravan and travelling on the road. With a motorhome, you are inside the living quarters when on the road and the noise level is surprisingly loud and tiring!
2. Make the installed SatNav motorhome friendly with the capability to input the motorhome dimensions and route planning to take this into account. The installed SatNav in my Fiat cab is a standard unit that takes no account of vehicle dimension - hence it is useless. So I am having to separately purchase a SatNav that will find routes suitable for my size of vehicle.

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Probably the best bit I would do is have the manufactures make then un=thievable
 
As regards build quality, I wonder how many folk who buy a new van really look at the construction methods. I suspect it is not until you have to some deeper work on the van yourself you find how it is built. Furniture held together with 3mm woodscrews, corner joints secured by those little wiggly strips of metal hammered in across the grain. No labelling any component not in view, no wiring diagram etc. No real change from my 1980's Camelot Hi-top, through a Swift Sundance to my present 2001 Pilote. Of course that is nearly twenty years old but apart from less wood in the main carcass pretty much like newer models.
 
We love our 5.4m PVC with fixed bed, but I'd take out the 2 extra belted seats which form the dinette as we have no need for them - we only need a 2 berth and the captains chairs are very comfortable. This would free up some room to make the bed a bit wider and perhaps some worksurface in the kitchen, or even an oven!

I'd also like a footrest on the driver's seat as being a continental layout the person in that seat ends up with their feet danging over the edge as the floor has a higher section in the dinette area.

I'd like more kitchen workspace (as said elsewhere) because with only the glass covers on sink and 2 ring burner, when we bring in a cooking appliance it either sits over one or the other meaning we are then limited to having access to either the sink or the 2 rings.

I can cope with the washroom being small and its just about doable for me as long as I don't drop the soap.
 
Ooer, which one of you shall I imagine dropping the soap.

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I'm working through a self build just now to suit a growing youngish family so I've tried to incorporate a more flexible layout in an L3 H2 Boxer with bunks (top fold away and bottom folding out to make a double) with a transverse double at the front. I decided to try and push back any floor to ceiling panels further back as I thought it gives an appearance of more space.

I've only put 1 large window on each side behind the existing side windows with no windows in the back door or any further back as I found them pointless, getting in the way and comprimising privacy. I've added light incorporating 3 clear roof vents. (this may now be detrimintal and thank you DVLA! ?)

I extended the raised floor at the front a little further than most on the passenger side. I found some to be little more than a ledge to fall off.

More height adjustment in the cab seats would be welcome but this adds quite significant cost.

More will likely spring to mind later and I'lll be getting some photo's and posts in the selfbuild forum soon.
 
Been thinking about this and really only have seven small issues.
We have an Auto-trail Delaware: Fiat chassis, 150bhp, 4.5 ton, 8m, registered April 2016.
Comfortmatic “auto” gearbox, as described elsewhere on this forum, wonderful but very slow 1st to 2nd.
Front windscreen internal blinds magnetic catches fall off.
Door mounted rubbish bin caught once too often going in and out of the door. Now in pieces.
Bedroom side cupboard handles stick out. Until we got used to them had sore knees.
Lounge background led dimmable lighting - needlessly complicated in my opinion (operated by remote or control panel)
Waste water low warning sensors - never worked despite being looked at.
Waste water release tap under vehicle. Difficult to open and close due to position.
None of these lessen our appreciation of the motorhome to any degrees and I will get round to “fixing” most of them.
 
Probably the best bit I would do is have the manufactures make then un=thievable
Short of using a hiab (and that’s not possible where it’s parked as there are cables above it) and after a visit to vanbitz mine is untheivable??
 
Our V Line 635 SE is nearly what I would call our perfect van.
I must admit that I have carried out a few easy mods that suit us,
I can watch a tv that is Velcro’ed to the work top immediately behind the swivelled drivers/ passenger seat as Auto Trail fitted a tv socket/12v and 230v at this point and due to the extended floor our feet reach the floor, there are also reading lights above. My wife can watch something completely different in her favourite spot on one of the rear settees.
Under the work top we have a capacious cupboard, shelved, our dealer did turn the door around FOC to allow easier access. The top half we use for breakfast cereals, an insulated bag takes bread, rolls, cakes. The bottom takes 4 x bath towels, 4 x hand towels and a bag full of flannels.
Our bathroom, admittedly we have to use a shower curtain, only disadvantage though, a superbly designed drop down sink, separate taps for sink and shower, capacious cabinet with twin mirrored doors, I have fitted restraining bits to match the woodwork to stop odd bits falling out when opening and fiddles to the three shelves under the sink, and luckily due to a warrantee claim we have two drains in the shower floor, no puddles if the van is’nt levelled.
Our lounge is very, very comfortable, seat bases are at a sensible height, our feet actually reach the floor when sat, the seat backs are slightly reclined so one does not feel “ pertched “ and it only takes seconds to pull out the slatted bases to make, in our case twine beds. Our bedding is easily stored in the overcab shelf.
For meal times we have a choice of a round table that we can use with the swivelled cab seats or in the lounge and if we have more than two to eat we use our larger elongated table between the lounge seats. We have been able to seat an easy six people in the lounge comfortably.
The wardrobe above a reasonable sized refrigerator holds the small round table, and not at the back, a folding table, all hanging things that a female likes to have and 2 Or 3 pairs of my trousers, at least 10 shirts, double hung on hangers. I did move the rail higher and towards the back, I think whoever fitted it at the factory was a might bit on the short side.
The galley is as good as it gets, three gas ringed hob, pity no electric one, an oven/grill that actually does what it says on the tin ! Four, yes four very good sized drawers and three under cupboards, which I have shelved.
And a worktop that is as big, if not, no, bigger than most of the coach builds we’ve owned, we’ve owned two Burstner 821’s, Adria A class, A/T Chieftain, Dakota, four Kontikis,two Boleros,
Nearly forgot as we do’nt use it much, a microwave.
Eight roof lockers, one above the front cupboard and seven in the rear, I have shelved five of them. One is used for drinks, tumblers and wine glasses and one holds six dinner plates, six tea plates, six dishes and six mugs ( China )
One of the lockers has a “ thingamagig “ in it that works the I. Nett heating and whatever.Never used it !
Storage, I removed the covers that cover the rear of the front seat bases, took out the Fiat storage things, and now have room for three extra pairs of shoes each. The tools, jack and bits relocated to the rear under seats.
Under the rear/lounge seats I have room for two folding chairs, two folding ( eating/ table chairs ) levelling ramps, two hook up cables, one 12 mtrs and a 15 mtr one and waterproof cable joint cover, a bag with pegs, awning strap/kit, Wind Blocker set, Thule roll out wind break, small Cadac Safari barbi, 2 mtr gas pipeing,toilet chemicals, ‘ camper parked here sign ‘,peg persuader ( hammer ), 3 mtr waste drain pipe. That’s enough !
The van has four cig 12v sockets, six 230v sockets, I doubled up the single single galley work top one and we have an extra socket for 230v from an inverter, run off two 115amp batteries.
We had a dealer fit out sided gas out let for the Barbi.
The V Line comes with excellent insulation, Remis windscreen blinds, 25 litres underfloor gas tank, 100 watt solar panel, tv aerial and we have had an Oyster sat system fitted.
Other bits to make it ‘ our van ‘ tow bar, rear air units with gauges and pump system, fly screen to sliding door,Tune It tuning to the motor, ( 130 bhp now approx 150ish )
I think we have, for us at least, our, nearly perfect van. Wow, I ‘d better not tell the wife what we’ll have to have done next.

BernieT

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The Augusta is just such a van, at 7.5Mtrs long and 4.5tonnes it has only 2 belted seats, driver & Front seat passenger, and only 2 beds. It's appeal to us that it has 3 separate rooms (yes wooden doors between them!) a lounge/Kitchen a separate bedroom, then a door thru to the rear bathroom.

It's one of the few 2 berth campers where you don't sleep in the kitchen.
Those look lovely soft sofas? What length van is that ?
 
Our requirements are straightforward, 2 berth 4 belts preferable 3 ok. Less than 6m, toilet/ shower big enough to get in. (Palace not required).
Our box is a rapido 604 ducatto low profile 4berth 4 belts. Has a beautiful shower so small you have to have 1foot on the wheel arch, the payback being a comparitivly huge kitchen.
A double bed is permanently made up and ready stored in the roof . Not everybodys favourite. The other 2 berths are made up or not (in our case) with a jigsaw puzzle of cushions. A permanent bed is not possible without storage in roof within 6m.

Questions/ gripes
1 ??? Design question What is minimum length you could put a vertcal stored permament ready bed.
2 jigsaw puzzle bed ease of configuration.
3 using dropdown bed in lowest position left hand person is trapped in front of vehicle whilst other sleeps in, in the morning.
4 water tank very poor level measurements, also not visble from outside when measuring
5 solar fitted as standard with no charge monitoring
6 conversion doccumentation poor, generic for entire range not specific model.
7 enough for now, 2 rear view cameras.
 
I have recently worked on the Alde boiler on my Burstner 800i Elegance, to reach the PCB is a nightmare, the boiler is accessed through the rear garage and is roughly situated under the fixed central bed there is enough room to get one hand /arm into the gap to unscrew the boiler covers, unclip the cables and unscrew the PCB! Access to fixed units should be more ergonomically designed, not a huge ask!!
 

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Emergency 4 wheel drive.
Fold down over cab system - I like the over cab bed but would like it more aerodynamic when driving.
Adjustable air suspension all round.
Rain catcher from roof to water tank or flush unit.

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Tardis.
As much as possible inside whilst keeping the outside and all up weight as small as possible, whilst also making the structure absolutely watertight and using rot proof materials just in case water does eventually find its way in.
It's all a compromise I'm afraid.
 
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I think it's fair to say that the majority of motorhome owners are in the older age group and often not as agile as others, therefore, access in and out of the habitation door needs to be easy. Many motorhomes have steep steps which are not compatible with arthritic joints.
 
Hi TeeMyob,
I've always had old A class vans.
What is wrong with their safety, I've never heard this being a problem before ?

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Is this wandering off thread a little? If you look at the starting post you will see they are students wishing to do a project around improved motorhome design, not really specific faults or good bits on our own van.

Perhaps we should be suggesting more generic problems. Beds and seating seem a common complaint also complicated and inneficient electric systems. How about smaller lighter vehicles that can morph into something more comfortable once on site.
 
If manufacturers concentrated more on quality of finish and attention to detail rather than trying to throw in all the “bells and whistles” they would do better.

The ever increasing introduction of electronics is proving counter productive in many areas. When heating/water heating/fridge controls were manually operated there were few problems. With electronics failing, mis matched software etc reliability has decreased rather than increased.

Lower cost simplicity rather than high cost complication would be appreciated.

Basic designs and layout are fairly good. Quality of finish and unrealistically low payloads are problematic.
I think there is a method in the manufacturers madness,so to speak, as with all motor vehicles these days, the more electric and electronic devices they build into a vehicle, the more difficult it is for the average driver/owner to have the knowledge or ability to diagnose or rectify any faults, so it’s usually return the vehicle to the dealership to have the problem rectified, fine while the vehicle is under but 12 months later these problems will cost somewhere in the region of £65 per hour plus vat. to rectify, and once out of warranty there never seems to be an easy job, it’s always a matter of this will have to be checked then that so the hours are mounting up so you never end up with a bill if £70 or £80 it’s more likely to be £700 or £800, years ago the vehicles may not have been so economical on fuel etc, but in the long run they were still much more economical and reliable to run without all the electronic refinements and gizmos (gimics?).My earlier Motorhomes which were on the Ford Transit base rarely had a problem that I couldn’t sort myself or that I could take to virtually any garage to get sorted, even the conversion side of things were easier to sort, the good old days maybe?
 
I think there is a method in the manufacturers madness,so to speak, as with all motor vehicles these days, the more electric and electronic devices they build into a vehicle, the more difficult it is for the average driver/owner to have the knowledge or ability to diagnose or rectify any faults, so it’s usually return the vehicle to the dealership to have the problem rectified, fine while the vehicle is under but 12 months later these problems will cost somewhere in the region of £65 per hour plus vat. to rectify, and once out of warranty there never seems to be an easy job, it’s always a matter of this will have to be checked then that so the hours are mounting up so you never end up with a bill if £70 or £80 it’s more likely to be £700 or £800, years ago the vehicles may not have been so economical on fuel etc, but in the long run they were still much more economical and reliable to run without all the electronic refinements and gizmos (gimics?).My earlier Motorhomes which were on the Ford Transit base rarely had a problem that I couldn’t sort myself or that I could take to virtually any garage to get sorted, even the conversion side of things were easier to sort, the good old days maybe?
Not surprisingly I agree totally with you.

Our previous motorhome had electronic controls for the heater and water heater with timer settings, the ability to control from your ‘phone etc. So complicated it was easy to make a mistake and have to keep starting over.

The fridge had heat/touch sensitive controls which were accidentally operated if you just brushed past. A mis-match between the software and the fridge led to a nine month wrangle as to who was at fault, Swift, Sargent or Thetford. Meanwhile the fridge kept turning off and refusing to work, whenever it felt like it.

Our new m/h has manually switched fridge and simple, straightforward controls for the water and space heaters. Deliberately chosen and allowing the money to go where we preferred.
 
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id like the option of twin overcab pull down beds at a more affordable price than the Cathargo and the Duomobil
also agree about dinette table moveable outside
also agree re prep space in Kitchen - glass tops and covers for waste bins dont provide for cooking!
 
Some flipping worktop. Only someone who has never cooked would think that a cover over the hob would suffice for more than making a sandwich! You need to use the worktop AT THE SAME TIME as the sink AND the hob if you are actually cooking.

The ability to level without dropping a few thousand on an electric levelling system. Jacks are very simple technology, and it really can’t be that hard to put one at each corner on some sort of wind/down ratchet mechanism.

make the captains seats into proper reclining chairs with a footrest/leg support. Again, hardly new tech. I want to put my feet up of an evening!

A small dishwasher. Not for everyone, and might be hard to place, but honestly, no one washes up anymore. Fine, if you are after wilderness camping experience, then you won’t want it, but I suspect motorhomes are bought for large amounts of money by people who want to go on holiday and take their home comforts with them. And who washes up at home anymore?

coat hooks. Really, it rains. A lot. We need to carry coats.

places for shoes. By the door, not in the wardrobe.

somewhere to put your coffee and glasses when your in bed

a LOT more sockets. three, or even five doesnt even come close to what’s required nowadays.

tables for outside. It would only take some of the lockers opening down, and not upwards, with the ability to stop them at 90°, perhaps by adding a leg.

felt or padding inside the drawers and cupboards to stop rattling.

I should probably stop now!

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