What kind of multimeter do I need to do an engine battery test?

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I'm thinking of buying a multimeter to do a battery test on my engine battery to see what's causing it to lose power 3 days after charging, i.e. by testing the power being drawn and pulling out fuses to identify the culprit.

Looking online it seems you can pay anything from £8 to £160. Some of the cheaper multimeters seem to have a maximum of 10 amps (assuming I've understood their purpose correctly) but some of the fuses on the Fiat are for 20 amps. Can someone recommend one that covers 20 amps at a reasonable price, e.g. up to say £50.
 
The one that's in is a Varta 80 Ah 700 A. The one you've listed is 95 Ah. Does it matter (I'm totally ignorant on electrical matters).
Yes it's better. My van has a 680 cranking amp and the exide is 800.
The physical dimensions of the exide are a bit bigger but the battery box is designed for that size and the terminals are correct 👌
 
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Loving all this advice and guidance all of which is well meant but quite a bit if which is plain confusing. That's the beauty of the internet and forums like this. If you want to find out that there are a hundred ways of doing something, ask the internet.

As far as your battery replacement is concerned, the battery clamp bar obviously has to come off after which there are just two more things to undo - the nut on the +ve terminal and the clamp on the -ve. Depending on how tightly things are wedged, it may be a bit of a fiddle on the +ve. I removed my starter battery (2009 Ducato) and didn't put the new one in for at least 30 minutes (just faffing around really cleaning contact points and stuff). Started up no problem and no air bag warnings or other such dire consequences noted. You pays your money, you take your chance.
 
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Lenny HB You wouldn't need to do all that though if you connected another (smaller) battery with temp leads whilst doing the change would you? Incidentally, could you use the "jump start" connections for the temp battery which would make life simpler?
Could do but then you have the battery terminals live and it's awkward to get the battery out far better to have the terminals dead.
 
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Could do but then you have the battery terminals live and it's awkward to get the battery out far better to have the terminals dead.
I also don't think it is worth the hassle. Also doesn't that mean 3 batteries involved?
Old, New and temporary?

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It's the recoding the radio and any residual memories that I'm trying to avoid. Alternative is to get it done when it goes in for the MOT next month. That way might save me an osteopath's bill as well.
 
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I don't think you do. They appear to be screwed to the plate not to the battery. Who would screw into a battery? Unless I am misunderstanding something here?
They are a bit like a rawlplug underneath and locate into a small socket in the battery. Common to many car batteries in the First group
 
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