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Yes all the 15kwh 16 cells I built with 125A breaker and 35mm2 cables. Yours, will have a poxy 400A mega inside near the bms. Leave that there and add the 125A outside, maybe in a box on the wall where is convenient for isolation as well.Raul
so 125A DC breaker at home? i think i ordered a breaker a week or so ago, i just need to check what it is!
in the motorhome a 100A or 150A?
You are better of with 2x 35mm2, it will give better heat disipation as you get more surface area on 2x35 compared to 1x50.or just up the cable to 50mm?
Don't touch it.
this seems to meet the specs?
is there a reason? its a 250A T class fuse?Don't touch it.
I don't see any testing or accreditation, mikey mouse.is there a reason? its a 250A T class fuse?
They don't break and then reconnect in that sense, they break and the massive currents, depending on the type of fuse, can cause an arc between the bits that are left, which is fuelled by the vapour within the blown fuse. Class-T fuses still have fusible links within them, but they also have sand which acts as an arc suppressant inside.Can anyone explain how these fuses fail then reconnect?
Is the normal path through the fuse itself melting then reconnecting, possibly now at a higher fuse rating as it is a blob of metal rather than a thin strip? Very unlikely I think.
Or, is the plastic fuse base melting allowing the attachments to short out elsewhere?
This seems more likely so best to be carefully what you attach the fuse holder to.
Yes but lithium's can be many thousands.Won't a starter battery push a few hundred amps if it's shorted?
Yes you should, you fuse with a man enough fuse, so it can chop the flow to protect the cable. How you do that? You find the max potential of the supply, and stick a fuse capable to cut the flow of that supply.You should not fuse anything based on the supply current.
It will. Most lithiums will too. If you find out the IR of you lithium you can approximate the short circuit current, 12.8/IR = the initial short circuit current, many hundreds/thousands of Amps. A BMS will cut the battery out at its cutoff, but if the mosfets fail shorted the current will keep going, for a little while at least.Won't a starter battery push a few hundred amps if it's shorted?
Yes, probably double the CCA rating, imagine a lithium short what it can do.Won't a starter battery push a few hundred amps if it's shorted?
This is another good choice, meets the existing regulation requirements for battery storage. You just need to find the suitable amps ratings for your application, as appropriate. I have used the 125A on 2 Seplos batteries.
Projoy 2 Pole Battery Isolator 125A 160V DC with Enclosure
Part No: PEBS-L-125A-160V-2PL-ENCL Storage Systems - Battery Fuse Holder This part is made up of the following items: 1 x PEBS-L-160V-125A-2P-DC Projoy Battery Isolator 160V 125A DC MCB 1 x PEBS-L-IP66-4P-ENCLOSURE Projoy DC MCB Weatherproof Empty Enclosure 4 Module PEBS-L Series DC...electric-solar.co.uk
Thank you for posting the data, I vaguely knew they take 2kA at 58v, and that kA rating will increase as you lower the voltage, but, never knew for sure how high; 10kA is plenty for our 12v aplications.The Blue Sea MRBF's (which I believe are actually Bussman (Eaton)) have an interrupt rating of 10kA @ 14v, which should be perfectly adequate for most situations