Wandering again, this time in France

[bellabee]

It’s definitely worth a visit. I don’t think it’s possible to drive a motorhome up there though.

There's also a very nice, private aire opposite the river at Cénac. It's a fairly steep but easy climb (on foot!) up to Domme from there.
Cénac also has a lovely Thai restaurant.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Today has been much cloudier with just a few spells of hot sun, but no rain beyond a few isolated drops. Still warm though, we are sat out in the evening quite comfortably. We decided to cycle through the back roads to Beynac-et-Casenac. Quite a hilly ride but not that far around 8 miles. The town is dominated by a castle and the houses leading up to it, all very dramatic. It is clearly set up for a lot of tourists, but it was reasonably quiet today. It probably gets busier in July and August. There is a nice little aire we would consider next time, it has no facilities, but very clean public toilets and easy access to the town.

We walked up to the castle and ate our packed lunch in a little square. We didn't go in just wandered the streets before heading back down again. Then we cycled back towards Domme and as the sun came out decided to stop at a little terraced bar in La-Rocque-Gageac, another cute town built into the rocks on the banks of the Dordogne. Another summer tourist trap I expect, but not too bad in June. It looks like it had a really good CCP, we would definitely use if we are back this way.

Then it was back to the van and a couple of hours around the pool. The forecast is not great for the next few days so we might head to the Mediterranean for a bit of sun, sea and sand.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

The weather is pretty poor today, raining on and off all day. It's not cold though. Last night we went to bed intending to drive to the Mediterranean coast, but as often happens we got up with different ideas. We decided you can't spend the whole holiday dodging rain and it isn't that heavy (he says as he listens to the thunder!). What do others think? Drive 250 miles for sun in an area you aren't that bothered about (we know it quite well) or continue exploring where you are and to hell with the weather. Anyway that's what we did.

So we drove about 25 miles to Gourdon and did some essential supplies shopping and got some fuel. There is a wine called pecharment, made around Bergerac which we particularly like and is difficult to get in the UK so we bought a few bottles - number one on the list of the essential supplies. We moved to a free air in the centre of town for lunch. For just €2 each pitch has water and electric available. It's a nice little town, but two hours and you have seen it all and with the ongoing rain we could not relax in the sun so we decided to keep moving. We are now in Rocamadour about 15 miles up the road, but have not explored yet because the football is about to start. The pictures are Gourdon.

 

[Peavy]

What do others think?

We would do the same you did.
But of course we always choose hollyday destination avoiding the extremely warm and sunny weather, because we live in an extremely warm and sunny place

 

[Orion]

We’re heading up towards you having spent a few days in the sun near Sète and then further inland at Lac du Salagou. Travelled today in the rain to Anduze on the Gard and the forecast says clearing overnight and a good outlook thereafter.
We’ll head to the Ardeche for more swimming and then potter around the volcano’s.

Belcastel is worth a stop if you’re nearby.

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[scousebird]

We were in Gourdon earlier this year

We found a cloud

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We’re heading up towards you having spent a few days in the sun near Sète and then further inland at Lac du Salagou. Travelled today in the rain to Anduze on the Gard and the forecast says clearing overnight and a good outlook thereafter.
We’ll head to the Ardeche for more swimming and then potter around the volcano’s.

Belcastel is worth a stop if you’re nearby.

Thanks will have a look at Belcastel.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We were in Gourdon earlier this year
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We found a cloud

Haha so did we, loads of them.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We wandered into Rocamadour today taking the circular walk down from L'Hospitalet. The medieval streets with the sanctuary rising above offer a truly dramatic sight. Coffee called fairly quickly so we stopped for two grand creme before climbing the steps through the main sanctuary to the chateau. Pilgrims used to climb each of the 243 steps on their knees to worship at the black madonna (not the one with the big boobies). This is a fabulous village and I would say a must see for anyone wishing to tour the Dordogne, truly spectacular and not a rip off. Yes it is a tourist village and I expect it gets very busy in July/August but today it was just right. Plus as Jane And Rog have sagely observed, we are tourists too. If staying again I probably wouldn't use this site though, there is nothing wrong with it but it was €25 plus tourist tax which seemed a bit steep even though there is a nice indoor pool with jacuzzi as well as the outdoor one. There is a newer one next door, run by the same people with all the facilities and even a pool for €18, it's not on S4S yet under the new name.

After a late lunch at the van, we headed over to the pool for a swim and some intermittent sunbathing.

Forecast is still very unsettled so we may move on again tomorrow, we will decide in the morning.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We wandered into Rocamadour today taking the circular walk down from L'Hospitalet. The medieval streets with the sanctuary rising above offer a truly dramatic sight. Coffee called fairly quickly so we stopped for two grand creme before climbing the steps through the main sanctuary to the chateau. Pilgrims used to climb each of the 243 steps on their knees to worship at the black madonna (not the one with the big boobies). This is a fabulous village and I would say a must see for anyone wishing to tour the Dordogne, truly spectacular and not a rip off. Yes it is a tourist village and I expect it gets very busy in July/August but today it was just right. Plus as Jane And Rog have sagely observed, we are tourists too. If staying again I probably wouldn't use this site though, there is nothing wrong with it but it was €25 plus tourist tax which seemed a bit steep even though there is a nice indoor pool with jacuzzi as well as the outdoor one. There is a newer one next door, run by the same people with all the facilities and even a pool for €18, it's not on S4S yet under the new name.View attachment 912833View attachment 912834View attachment 912835View attachment 912838

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After a late lunch at the van, we headed over to the pool for a swim and some intermittent sunbathing.

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Forecast is still very unsettled so we may move on again tomorrow, we will decide in the morning.

Fab photos!

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[Suenliam]

Rocamadour is stunning and sometimes very busy but still spectacular. On the top of the cliff is the Rocher des Aigles where they breed mainly birds of prey for reintroducing into the wild. The daily displays are fantastic - vultures and condors flying freely on the thermals that rise above the cliff etc. They now do a macaw and parrot display as well. It must be seen to be believed. When we first went there (nearly 40 years ago!!!) we were a bit concerned that the birds were just hanging about on their tree trunks looking morose as only vultures can. However, when the keepers walked among them they started squarking "take me, take me!" We wondered what all the fuss was about until we saw them releasing the birds and encouraging them to fly free.
I am surprised the place is not advertised more. It's only because our French friends introduced us to it that we know where it is. I would thoroughly recommend it and I am not prone to recommend anything - it's up to individuals to make their own minds up.
Sue

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Fab photos!

Thanks it’s well worth a visit.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Rocamadour is stunning and sometimes very busy but still spectacular. On the top of the cliff is the Rocher des Aigles where they breed mainly birds of prey for reintroducing into the wild. The daily displays are fantastic - vultures and condors flying freely on the thermals that rise above the cliff etc. They now do a macaw and parrot display as well. It must be seen to be believed. When we first went there (nearly 40 years ago!!!) we were a bit concerned that the birds were just hanging about on their tree trunks looking morose as only vultures can. However, when the keepers walked among them they started squarking "take me, take me!" We wondered what all the fuss was about until we saw them releasing the birds and encouraging them to fly free.
I am surprised the place is not advertised more. It's only because our French friends introduced us to it that we know where it is. I would thoroughly recommend it and I am not prone to recommend anything - it's up to individuals to make their own minds up.
Sue

That sounds really good and like Les Oiseau at Puy du Fou. They fly a multitude of birds at the same time and encourage them to swoop down above the audience. I had a vulture literally skim the top of my head. I think you might enjoy it if you haven’t already been.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

The great thing about motorhoming is that you can follow a whim and see where it takes you. Today we did some proper wandering. We decided to get away from the rain and head towards Arles, somewhere that has interested us for a while with its links to Van Gogh and the Roman amphitheatre.

On the way we saw a sign to La Couvertoirade which claimed it was a genuine medieval walled town, so we thought we would take a look. There is no campsite, just parking areas outside the village where you are allowed to park your motorhome. We wandered in and it is difficult to describe, because it really is pretty much still a medieval village inside defensive walls, there are no more than a handful of houses outside. All around it is wilderness right up to walls. There were even vultures circling above.

It was built by the Knights Templar in the C12th and is unusual because it is the only village in Europe with no water source. Instead the knights devised a clever system of collecting and storing rain water and there is definitely a lot of that at the moment. It didn't even have running water until the 1970s. La Couvertoirade is small but it really is an amazing place, like wandering on a film set for Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The pictures don't do it justice because the weather was so poor.

We are going to stay here tonight and press on to Arles tomorrow. There is some sort of singing event with wine, might teach them a few rugby songs .............ou est le papier anyone?

 

[Just smiffy]

The great thing about motorhoming is that you can follow a whim and see where it takes you. Today we did some proper wandering. We decided to get away from the rain and head towards Arles, somewhere that has interested us for a while with its links to Van Gogh and the Roman amphitheatre.

On the way we saw a sign to La Couvertoirade which claimed it was a genuine medieval walled town, so we thought we would take a look. There is no campsite, just parking areas outside the village where you are allowed to park your motorhome. We wandered in and it is difficult to describe, because it really is pretty much still a medieval village inside defensive walls, there are no more than a handful of houses outside. All around it is wilderness right up to walls. There were even vultures circling above.

It was built by the Knights Templar in the C12th and is unusual because it is the only village in Europe with no water source. Instead the knights devised a clever system of collecting and storing rain water and there is definitely a lot of that at the moment. It didn't even have running water until the 1970s. La Couvertoirade is small but it really is an amazing place, like wandering on a film set for Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The pictures don't do it justice because the weather was so poor.

We are going to stay here tonight and press on to Arles tomorrow. There is some sort of singing event with wine, might teach them a few rugby songs .............ou est le papier anyone?

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Thought I recognised it, I was there in September 2019…

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[Wanders from Glos]

Thought I recognised it, I was there in September 2019…

View attachment 913453

Looks like the weather was similar!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We have just at returned from the fete du chante and it was frankly completely barmy but great fun. We have been watered with vin rouge and plied with tarte Aveyron which is a kind of egg custard mixed with rice. The whole village of 30 people were there plus a few stragglers like us. The entertainment was a lady on a kind of barrel organ who whistled, sang and played the saw (that’s not a typo). It was raining and cold and we had a brilliant time. I don’t know where the French reputation for being unfriendly comes from, this is not the first time we have been welcomed so warmly. Anyway we rolled back to the van laughing and shushing each other as only the tipsy can. Motorhoming, you can’t beat it.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

After a chilly night, we woke to another world this morning, one involving blue skies and wind. It’s very windy. The parking charge for last night was €5, including access to a toilet with th proceeds going to the local village. Seemed very reasonable to us.

We need to get some washing done somewhere we can also dry it afterwards and so had planned to go to the ACSI site near Arles but as ever we changed our plan this morning. We decided to head for an another ACSI site slightly further north, near Tarascon called Saint-Gabriel. A smaller family run place with a more relaxed feel (we hope) and crucially a washing machine. It is probably not suitable for anything over 7m, even that has been quite tight. I turned the wrong way and had to reverse quite carefully with an ever growing audience. All those years driving a fire engine and now an ambulance in Gloucestershire’s country lanes has finally been good for something.

The weather is much better, around 27C but still windy. Sardines for dinner cooked on the gas bbq after a relax around the pool. For us the only advantage of a site is a pool and washing machines, otherwise aires and CCPs work well and cost less. We plan to visit Arles tomorrow and need to decide whether to cycle or catch the bus. Anyone got any experience of cycling in Arles?

Another day another swimming pool.

The campsite office, bar and restaurant.

 

[scousebird]

Do you not use the outdoor launderettes at lots of supermarkets? They are very convenient.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Do you not use the outdoor launderettes at lots of supermarkets? They are very convenient.

Yes we have used them at Intermarche before. It’s definitely a good tip.

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[Orion]

We must have crossed one another as we headed north east - now on La Cèze near Goudargues pursuing our ‘Swimming Through France’ theme. Very windy but sunny here today and the current in the river had noticeably increased after the recent rain - good exercise swimming against it and getting nowhere! Forecast for the region looking very good for the coming week or so.

Downtown Goudargues on a lazy Sunday.

 

[bellabee]

We stayed at acsi campsite l'Arlaisienne in Arles and walked into the town. It took around 45 mins and wasn't a very pleasant walk. It did take us past a large commercial centre - Intermarché, I think, and we decided that if we went to Arles again, that's where we'd park for approx 20 min walk into town.
We didn't cycle and I don't remember it as being very cycle-friendly.
Arles is well worth a visit.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We stayed at acsi campsite l'Arlaisienne in Arles and walked into the town. It took around 45 mins and wasn't a very pleasant walk. It did take us past a large commercial centre - Intermarché, I think, and we decided that if we went to Arles again, that's where we'd park for approx 20 min walk into town.
We didn't cycle and I don't remember it as being very cycle-friendly.
Arles is well worth a visit.

Thanks.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We stayed at acsi campsite l'Arlaisienne in Arles and walked into the town. It took around 45 mins and wasn't a very pleasant walk. It did take us past a large commercial centre - Intermarché, I think, and we decided that if we went to Arles again, that's where we'd park for approx 20 min walk into town.
We didn't cycle and I don't remember it as being very cycle-friendly.
Arles is well worth a visit.

We saw there was a hypermarket and would have liked to look around. I messaged Camping L’Arlessiene to ask about arriving in the morning after phoning and getting no reply. The email didn’t get a response either, which just put me off for some reason. Whereas the place we are at now said to just ring a number on the door if it is lunchtime. The site is a bit crammed in like some Spanish sites can be, but it’s nice enough. The advantage is we can easily visit a few other towns and there is a velo verte nearby. Think we will probably catch the bus to Arles, it’s only a euro.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We must have crossed one another as we headed north east - now on La Cèze near Goudargues pursuing our ‘Swimming Through France’ theme. Very windy but sunny here today and the current in the river had noticeably increased after the recent rain - good exercise swimming against it and getting nowhere! Forecast for the region looking very good for the coming week or so.
View attachment 913880
Downtown Goudargues on a lazy Sunday.

What a great theme, we could do ‘places we’ve laid in the sun’. That’s a great idea though. Outlook seems set fair but we have to head to Lac du Bourget on Wednesday to meet friends and not looking so hopeful there.

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[VXman]

We spent 10 days at the Le Mans 24 hr race a couple of weeks ago. After that we headed to Lyon area as that was the only bit of France that had sun!!

Since then we have been heading back towards Calais with no particular route planned other than 'no tolls'

Found some spectacular places. Lots of beautiful free Aires, historic towns, Chateau's, Abbeys, lakes, rivers. It's amazing what you can come across with no planning.

As I write we are parked up in an Aire by the river on the edge of Saint Quentin. Cost €3.30. Sitting out in the sun with a glass of Normandy cider. Looking forward to a day exploring the town tomorrow.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We spent 10 days at the Le Mans 24 hr race a couple of weeks ago. After that we headed to Lyon area as that was the only bit of France that had sun!!

Since then we have been heading back towards Calais with no particular route planned other than 'no tolls'

Found some spectacular places. Lots of beautiful free Aires, historic towns, Chateau's, Abbeys, lakes, rivers. It's amazing what you can come across with no planning.

As I write we are parked up in an Aire by the river on the edge of Saint Quentin. Cost €3.30. Sitting out in the sun with a glass of Normandy cider. Looking forward to a day exploring the town tomorrow.

France is great for just wandering. We have been coming here for over 30 years and we still find new places we haven’t been to and that surprise us how nice they are. Sadly it seems to us in that time France has evolved and got better whilst the UK doesn’t seem to have kept pace. It’s very noticeable when we return.

We saw lots of sports cars heading towards Le Mans last week, it took us a while to realise why!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We were up with the lark this morning, well 8am after a cup of tea in bed. The day brought beautiful blue skies and it was going to get hot. In the end we decided to catch the bus into Arles because the guy in reception battled with my French to explain a route he wanted us to take that would not be "dangeroux", the only problem was it added about 10 miles. The bus worked well, we had to cross a busy road but the stop was not far. It also had a number of surprising features, it was on time, air conditioned and very comfortable all for €1 each, but cash only.

History is my thing but I'm not sure how to describe Arles. It is very old (there's a top historian for you) and looks like the pictures you see of France with quant streets and restaurants. The first stop for us is always tourist information to get a map and find out the best sites and a walking route then we find a cafe and discuss what to do.

Apart from being one of the places where Vincent Van Gogh worked, Arles is best known for its Roman buildings. Today we decided to visit the amphitheatre first. Built around 90CE only the top floor is missing and it is still used for concerts. Until the 1800s it was lived in as a small town, which probably saved it. Today it is surrounded by honey coloured shops, restaurants and houses.

We decided to give the Roman theatre a miss, it looked good but for those who have been to Plovdiv in Bulgaria or Merida in Spain, it is not as well preserved. Instead we decided to head to Les Alyscamps which was once one of the largest and 'most famous' cemeteries in the world apparently. Today there is just one avenue lined with sarcophagi dating back to the Roman era with an abandoned necropolis at the end.

Then it was time for lunch, moules provincial for Claire and a piece of beef for me. Followed by strawberry tarte.

In the afternoon we headed for the Cryptoportiques, essentially the subterranean foundations built to support the buildings in the forum. Nice and cool after the heat of the day.

Finally we went to the cloisters for the Eglise St. Trophime built around the C12th. Much restored they were still impressive.

After all that it was time to go back and sit by the pool for a few hours before a 'picky tea'. A phrase I have never heard of but my wife assures me everyone knows. You can be the judge.

 

[Grianan]

Great photos. I love a ‘picky tea’. Never used the phrase but can just imagine it .

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Great photos. I love a ‘picky tea’. Never used the phrase but can just imagine it .

I know what you mean, but it’s going down as 1-0 to me.

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