Waited too long or a mistake made? chain & cassette wear

[gerry mcg]

when you changed the chain for the new one, did the quick link fully engage / lock? If not, that would account for the single click per rotation of the chain - rotate the chain slowly to identify where the jump is happening - if the quick link is not fully seated, it will skip once per rotation at that position as it passes round the jockeys and cassette

to fully lock the quick link, make sire the quick link is on the top section of the chain , hold the brakes and load the pedal - the force exerted will pull the quick link into its full locked position

 

[kevenh]

when you changed the chain for the new one, did the quick link fully engage / lock? If not, that would account for the single click per rotation of the chain - rotate the chain slowly to identify where the jump is happening - if the quick link is not fully seated, it will skip once per rotation at that position as it passes round the jockeys and cassette

to fully lock the quick link, make sire the quick link is on the top section of the chain , hold the brakes and load the pedal - the force exerted will pull the quick link into its full locked position

Thanks. That is good feedback on fitting the master link
I used the pedalling pressure to fully lock the link at the 1st chain fitting
I’ve a tool for fitting & removing links now.

As for the noise, it’s more a per tooth noise
There’s something not aligned but only one bit left to fit or I’ve bought a faulty/wrong part.
Or there’s something to align I’ve not thought of.

 

[Beltie]

Get yourself a gauge, Park Tool do a good one but there are no doubt cheaper ones available.
I've also recently had problems with links breaking on KMC Chains. One chain had four fail and in each case the side plates cracked around the pin. It might be worth checking the chain very carefully. While you are doing that, check for a stiff link as well.

 

[kevenh]

Oops! Missed an update. But not by as long as you may think
The delayed visit to the LBS has happened. 27/04/2021 was the earliest slot
The noise was chain suck.
New chain on old chainring.
They didn’t have a replace replacement available so I had to source my own - from Spain. An SRAM X-Sync Chainring Direct Mount 11-speed 6° offset (28T)
It was 3x the price of a 3° offset but I don’t know the significance so £80 had to be spent. I did get mrskevenh a saddle bag for her new bike so P&P was at least free.

Anyway, got the bike back fixed from the LBS on 05/05/2021

Nice to be on the carbon FSR instead of the metal hard tail.

 

[andy63]

It was 3x the price of a 3° offset but I don’t know the significance

Is that mm or degrees you are on about
Was 28 tooth what you had..that seems small.. mine came with a 30 tooth front ring and I changed it for a 34..but im not up that many mountains now
Pleased you are all sorted and nice to have the update..

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[kevenh]

Is that mm or degrees you are on about
Was 28 tooth what you had..that seems small.. mine came with a 30 tooth front ring and I changed it for a 34..but im not up that many mountains now
Pleased you are all sorted and nice to have the update..

It is confusing, the degrees v mm for the 6 part of the spec.
In my search for the part, I found vendors swapped the units.
6mm was my requirement.
Looking now, early signs are it’s the offset to the frame but

28T does mean I spin out on easy road sections but when I’m in charge of where I go, roads aren’t my preferred surface

Edit: more on offset at Compatibility section here.

 

[Themselves]

We live and learn. Glad it’s sorted.

 

[Bluemanc100]

Do you use a chain wear gauge..
If you have been running a well worn chain I'm suspecting a new one will never run right..
And if its fine on a stand and not under load it might be worth checking the derailleur hanger isn't bent..
Andy..

Only £3 or so and a great / simple way to tell when your chain needs to be replaced.. mine has two (no-go) sides at 75% and 100% worn but you can get a 50% version too

 

[andy63]

mine has two (no-go) sides at 75% and 100% worn but you can get a 50% version too

That was the norm for a long time..change the chain at 0.75% but with the move to more sprockets and thinner chains they would have you believe its best done at 0.5% to keep things right and get your sprockets and rings to last longer..
Certainly gets you spending more
Andy

 

[MattR]

That was the norm for a long time..change the chain at 0.75% but with the move to more sprockets and thinner chains they would have you believe its best done at 0.5% to keep things right and get your sprockets and rings to last longer..
Certainly gets you spending more
Andy

I replaced my Ultegra chain with a 105 when I last changed it. Cheaper, longer lasting and no noticeably difference in performance.

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