Victron Settings help needed

[seanwinder22]

Hi everyone can I get some suggestions please with these settings from anyone who uses lead batteries and first on the list is a Victron mppt 100/50
I’m using 230ah which is x2 115ah in parallel from banner bull the charge profile at 12v
bulk 14.6v - 14.8v I chose 14.6v
Float 13.2v - 13.5v I chose 13.3v
tail current 4amp ? Seems high
Re bulk off set 0.6v - 0.10v I chose 0.10v
Absorbtion duration Adaptive ?
Absorb time 1 hour seems right being 30 mins per 100ah

I also use bmv-712 which I’m told charge voltage needs to be 0.2v - 0.3v below absorption charge on mppt which is 14.3v I chose
Discharge floor 50%
Tail current 4% also seems high ? I’m thinking 0.5% has 1.1% is 4amp
Charged detection time 3 mins ? I’m thinking this needs to be higher like 6mins
peukert 1.25
Charged efficient factor 80%-85%

Multiplus settings
Same as bmv not the mppt
14.3v absorbtion
13.3v float
Adaptive & battery safe

If anyone would kindly give me any feed back or explanation what works for them with a similar set up would be much appreciated. I just think I need to keep adjusting the tail current & charged detection time
My thinking of tail current is once a battery is in float for 15 mins you check what the battery is still receiving in current from solar or charge mine is 1 - 2amp max which would be 0.5% tail current because 4 amp tail current is 1.1%
Before I forget my solar array is 460w
Thanks

 

[seanwinder22]

All seems to work as it should, low sun does not yield much in a day.

One last thing buddy. I have just been chatting with Victron joannas boonstra who insisted I need to set my tail current on my battery ah off 230 by doing this otherwise the soc will not be right
He said 0.04x230= 9.2amps
4amps on the mppt is 1.1%
2.2% is 8 amps and so on … so he’s basically telling me yes 4% on the bmv is default.. but with my battery bank being 230ah that gives me a tail current of 2.5%
What do you think of this information

 

[Hoovie]

One last thing buddy. I have just been chatting with Victron joannas boonstra who insisted I need to set my tail current on my battery ah off 230 by doing this otherwise the soc will not be right
He said 0.04x230= 9.2amps
4amps on the mppt is 1.1%
2.2% is 8 amps and so on … so he’s basically telling me yes 4% on the bmv is default.. but with my battery bank being 230ah that gives me a tail current of 2.5%
What do you think of this information

Makes sense to me on the tail current side.
If the Tail currrent is too high then you could very easily get a reset to 100% prematurely.
The only downside (which is not really) is that if you have too low a setting, the SOC could get stuck on 99%. That really doesn't matter that you don't get the final reset and it is better than it resetting to 100% too soon.

Where is this BMV connected? is it on the Lithium side only or on the Hybrid bank?
I think the efficiency setting you have quoted is not right at 80-85%, especially with Lithium. I would have that much higher at maybe 95% or even more.


These are the settings on my Lithium BMV-700 and I find they work out very nicely and the Batteries built-in SOC monitor and the BMV-700 State of Charges are always within a percent of each other whenever I have compared.

The BMV-712 on the Hybrid bank is setup differently (and is a bit of a compromise as it has to take two very different battery technologies and likely usage into account). This BMV tends not to get to the full 100% but it is close enough for me

(just noticed the charged voltage is 15.0V! That is one reason why it will never go to 100%!! need to adjust that )

The BMV-700 on the Lead needs some tweaking so I won't share that setup with you

 

[seanwinder22]

Makes sense to me on the tail current side.
If the Tail currrent is too high then you could very easily get a reset to 100% prematurely.
The only downside (which is not really) is that if you have too low a setting, the SOC could get stuck on 99%. That really doesn't matter that you don't get the final reset and it is better than it resetting to 100% too soon.

Where is this BMV connected? is it on the Lithium side only or on the Hybrid bank?
I think the efficiency setting you have quoted is not right at 80-85%, especially with Lithium. I would have that much higher at maybe 95% or even more.


These are the settings on my Lithium BMV-700 and I find they work out very nicely and the Batteries built-in SOC monitor and the BMV-700 State of Charges are always within a percent of each other whenever I have compared.
View attachment 687400


The BMV-712 on the Hybrid bank is setup differently (and is a bit of a compromise as it has to take two very different battery technologies and likely usage into account). This BMV tends not to get to the full 100% but it is close enough for me
View attachment 687403
(just noticed the charged voltage is 15.0V! That is one reason why it will never go to 100%!! need to adjust that )

The BMV-700 on the Lead needs some tweaking so I won't share that setup with you

Thanks for joining in buddy because this is what I thought about the tail current . yes it’s a hybrid bank but each as there own bmv before the vsdr device

The vsdr device is designed so once the lithium battery bank of 300ah gets to 14.2v it won’t accept anymore charge until it drops - similar to the relay tbh in the bmv-712
It then charges the lead bank with the highest charge and so fourth

I have the lead profile bank on the bmv all lead settings I will grab pics and show you of both bmv shunts and the mppt

 

[seanwinder22]

Makes sense to me on the tail current side.
If the Tail currrent is too high then you could very easily get a reset to 100% prematurely.
The only downside (which is not really) is that if you have too low a setting, the SOC could get stuck on 99%. That really doesn't matter that you don't get the final reset and it is better than it resetting to 100% too soon.

Where is this BMV connected? is it on the Lithium side only or on the Hybrid bank?
I think the efficiency setting you have quoted is not right at 80-85%, especially with Lithium. I would have that much higher at maybe 95% or even more.


These are the settings on my Lithium BMV-700 and I find they work out very nicely and the Batteries built-in SOC monitor and the BMV-700 State of Charges are always within a percent of each other whenever I have compared.
View attachment 687400


The BMV-712 on the Hybrid bank is setup differently (and is a bit of a compromise as it has to take two very different battery technologies and likely usage into account). This BMV tends not to get to the full 100% but it is close enough for me
View attachment 687403
(just noticed the charged voltage is 15.0V! That is one reason why it will never go to 100%!! need to adjust that )

The BMV-700 on the Lead needs some tweaking so I won't share that setup with you

Oh just reading back I guess you also have a hybrid bank

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[seanwinder22]

Here is my mppt 100/50 settings

 

[seanwinder22]

Bmv-712 for the lead bank settings

 

[seanwinder22]

Bmv lithium settings

 

[seanwinder22]

The b2b I have at 14.4v absorbtion and 13.6v float

Same in the multiplus 16/12/70 as above . But it’s rare I use ehu I only use it to basically do a top up of the batteries every 2 week at home on the drive which I was told to do by Victron
I have the multiplus for the inverter side and the cerbo gx with touch 50

 

[seanwinder22]

If you look on the mppt settings it’s 4amp which is 1.1% on the bmv tail current which is 4amp but apparently for every 100ah battery you need 1amp tail current on the mppt so it’s not right the information I’m getting . And I don’t mean from here either because I’ve had more information from here that’s helped
But I’m guessing like you mentioned with the hybrid which mine is 230ah Also a 300ah when worked out as mentioned earlier for lead 0.04x230 is 9.2amp my 230ah lead battery is 9.2amp so do I remove the 4amp in the mppt and place in 9.2amp ? Then place the percentage in the bmv at 2.5%
It’s very confusing lol
Or work it out at 1amp per 100ah which is 2.3amp for 230ah then giving 0.5% n the bmv
Same goes for the 300ah battery in the other bmv 0.04x300 is 12amp which 4amp is 1.1% so 1.1% x3 =3.3% which is 12amp what information to work the tail current is correct

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[Hoovie]

The tail current, time and voltage all combine together to perform a 100% resync when they all coincide and align. That is their only function so honestly don't get too hung up on those settings . At the very worst the reading will get stuck on 99%. On a new bank expect to do a bit of tweaking of the those parameters.

That 15.0V on my BMV was not a setting suggestion for you, it was a mistake on my settings I just noticed. Now changed it to 14.4V

With a Hybrid bank, the system voltages will follow a Lithium pattern and the vanbitz Battery Master is not suitable so I am not surprised if that is not working correctly (cue the BM Fan Club tirade of "I have a BM and Lithium, yadda Yadda" but it is NOT suitable), so I would change that anyway, or at very least remove it until you have settings sorted.

 

[seanwinder22]

The tail current, time and voltage all combine together to perform a 100% resync when they all coincide and align. That is their only function so honestly don't get too hung up on those settings . At the very worst the reading will get stuck on 99%. On a new bank expect to do a bit of tweaking of the those parameters.

That 15.0V on my BMV was not a setting suggestion for you, it was a mistake on my settings I just noticed. Now changed it to 14.4V

I know buddy lol I edited my response because I thought it was for the 15.2v in the data I have been having issues .
I’m just stuck on the tail current now . do I place 9amp in the mppt how I was told to work it out with the 0.04x230 which is 9.2amp because I’ve got 230ah battery or stick with 4amp default ?
Or Do I accept you put 1amp per 100ah battery ? But that would be 2amp in the mppt not 4amp
I understand how to work out the bmv tail current in percentage I definitely understand that part . 4amp is 1.1% that I do know lol
Once I get this information I can then place the correct amps in the mppt settings then what ever the amps are I work out the percentage in the bmv for each battery

 

[seanwinder22]

The tail current, time and voltage all combine together to perform a 100% resync when they all coincide and align. That is their only function so honestly don't get too hung up on those settings . At the very worst the reading will get stuck on 99%. On a new bank expect to do a bit of tweaking of the those parameters.

That 15.0V on my BMV was not a setting suggestion for you, it was a mistake on my settings I just noticed. Now changed it to 14.4V

With a Hybrid bank, the system voltages will follow a Lithium pattern and the vanbitz Battery Master is not suitable so I am not surprised if that is not working correctly (cue the BM Fan Club tirade of "I have a BM and Lithium, yadda Yadda" but it is NOT suitable), so I would change that anyway, or at very least remove it until you have settings sorted.

Ok buddy thanks so do you suggest I leave the mppt at 4amp tail current and leave both bmvs at 4% tail current

 

[seanwinder22]

right here we go Victron mppt if says 4amp default is for a 400ah battery
So change to 2 amp for a 200ah battery
In the bmv tail current which is % so 2amp is now 0.55% tail current
For a 300ah battery however in the bmv tail current 0.275+0.55=0.8% tail curve
So basically anything around 1% tail current or below 1% because 4% is way too high which I had it at 4amps mppt and 4% in the bmv it’s not good enough

 

[Hoovie]

Ok... maybe a bit of a recap of how the Battery and the BMV Interacts could be handy?

Short Answer: They don't!

A BMV (or any other State of Charge Monitor for that matter) doesn't really know anything about the battery, or anything about the charging devices that recharge the battery. It just sits in the middle and reads info and essentially has to assume things from what it reads.

A Battery is essentially at full charge when it will not take any more current (hence full ), however, batteries have a natural internal discharge (which is why a full battery left alone for months will self-discharge). In the final charging period of a battery (say the last 20% on a Lead Acid), it is in what is called Absorption Mode, or more accurately CV - Constant Voltage - mode - where the charger may be putting in a charge current whilst it is sat at 14.4V say (whatever the charger is set to and hopefully is what the battery wants (spec sheets of battery will tell you)). In this CV mode, the voltage stays Constant, but the current is declining as the battery fills.

The BMV Monitor is looking for a number of things in order to try and work out if the battery is full or not:

1. The Voltage to be at this CV setting (Charged Voltage).
2. The current to be no greater than than a self-discharge level (Tail Current, a percentage of the total capacity).
3. The two factors above to be true for a certain length of time (Charged Detection Time).

Problems arise when the Tail Current is too high. The default of 4% for a 200AH battery equates to 8A. So if you had a setup that reached the Charge Voltage of 14.4V, but the charger was just not capable of putting in over 8A (very likely with Solar in the winter), you would end up with a Battery that would resync to 100% much too early. This would also be true if someone had a very big battery bank but only a very small charger (say 10A). You need to consider the size of the charger as well as the size of the battery when configuring the BMV.

Setting up for Lithium is interesting and actually I would say the tail current is less important in fact. When you look at the profile of a Lithium Battery, it spends almost all the time in Bulk or CC - Constant Current - Mode, and the voltage climbs as the battery charges - and by the time the Voltage has reached the set Charge Voltage, the battery is actually full, the current drops to nothing, so it could be potentially set at 1%, 4% or 10%, it is unlikely to be important as it is all down to the Voltage setting being reached as far as BMV resyncing to 100%. In YOUR case, you would want to setup to the recommended I think, with 1% Tail etc, as you have the VSDR Lithium Controller that automatically disconnects the Lithium section of the Battery Bank from the Charger, which could affect the BMV logic potentially. I think for that specific BMV, I'd probably suggest you just use the same settings as mine, as mine tracts the 'real' SOC (as presented by the Batteries own Monitor) so closely it would seem to be a good combination of parameters.

For the Lead BMV, use the settings Victron suggested - they know their product better than anyone so it makes sense to start off at least from their recommendations and then adjust from there if need be.

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[seanwinder22]

Ok... maybe a bit of a recap of how the Battery and the BMV Interacts could be handy?

Short Answer: They don't!

A BMV (or any other State of Charge Monitor for that matter) doesn't really know anything about the battery, or anything about the charging devices that recharge the battery. It just sits in the middle and reads info and essentially has to assume things from what it reads.

A Battery is essentially at full charge when it will not take any more current (hence full ), however, batteries have a natural internal discharge (which is why a full battery left alone for months will self-discharge). In the final charging period of a battery (say the last 20% on a Lead Acid), it is in what is called Absorption Mode, or more accurately CV - Constant Voltage - mode - where the charger may be putting in a charge current whilst it is sat at 14.4V say (whatever the charger is set to and hopefully is what the battery wants (spec sheets of battery will tell you)). In this CV mode, the voltage stays Constant, but the current is declining as the battery fills.

The BMV Monitor is looking for a number of things in order to try and work out if the battery is full or not:

1. The Voltage to be at this CV setting (Charged Voltage).
2. The current to be no greater than than a self-discharge level (Tail Current, a percentage of the total capacity).
3. The two factors above to be true for a certain length of time (Charged Detection Time).

Problems arise when the Tail Current is too high. The default of 4% for a 200AH battery equates to 8A. So if you had a setup that reached the Charge Voltage of 14.4V, but the charger was just not capable of putting in over 8A (very likely with Solar in the winter), you would end up with a Battery that would resync to 100% much too early. This would also be true if someone had a very big battery bank but only a very small charger (say 10A). You need to consider the size of the charger as well as the size of the battery when configuring the BMV.

Setting up for Lithium is interesting and actually I would say the tail current is less important in fact. When you look at the profile of a Lithium Battery, it spends almost all the time in Bulk or CC - Constant Current - Mode, and the voltage climbs as the battery charges - and by the time the Voltage has reached the set Charge Voltage, the battery is actually full, the current drops to nothing, so it could be potentially set at 1%, 4% or 10%, it is unlikely to be important as it is all down to the Voltage setting being reached as far as BMV resyncing to 100%. In YOUR case, you would want to setup to the recommended I think, with 1% Tail etc, as you have the VSDR Lithium Controller that automatically disconnects the Lithium section of the Battery Bank from the Charger, which could affect the BMV logic potentially. I think for that specific BMV, I'd probably suggest you just use the same settings as mine, as mine tracts the 'real' SOC (as presented by the Batteries own Monitor) so closely it would seem to be a good combination of parameters.

For the Lead BMV, use the settings Victron suggested - they know their product better than anyone so it makes sense to start off at least from their recommendations and then adjust from there if need be.

Wow great explanation
I will jot down the settings you placed above for lithium then go and reset the bmv for lead to default
What about the mppt Should I place the tail current at 2amp or 4amp
I did ask David from wildebus all of these questions but got no reply . On his website he puts down a brilliant explanation of the hybrid but doesn’t explain the bmv settings he uses for each battery bank . I know he uses x3 shunts
1 lithium 1 lead and 1 for data for both battery banks
He said you can get away with just the 1 bmv or shunt and just use the lead profile settings on the shunt as the vsdr device does the work
I had a spare shunt the reason I wired each to each battery bank
I may take it out ? Just use the 1 bmv to monitor a hybrid bank instead of both banks it’s confusing lol
I have no issues with the hybrid it does work amazing
the battery master as you say it’s a headache
I’ve heard of the amt device from wildebus I’m looking into because this just isn’t right .
these last few tweeks on the bmv we should be good to go

 

[Hoovie]

Wow great explanation
I will jot down the settings you placed above for lithium then go and reset the bmv for lead to default
What about the mppt Should I place the tail current at 2amp or 4amp
I did ask David from wildebus all of these questions but got no reply .

Well, he is Fiddlesticksing useless I reckon!
(PS. That is what I tell him when I look in the mirror ) Maybe your mail ended up in a spam folder and never noticed? sorry about that, but least you have answers now.
For Lithium BMV, use the setting I have. For Lead or Hybrid BMV, I'd use around the 1% value.
The reason the Hybrid BMV settings are tricky is that for the first 200Ah of use, it is reading primarily Lithium Characteristics, and if you continue to draw from the Bank, it is reading Lead Characteristics, so becomes down to how YOU are using YOUR camper and someone else with an identical setup may need different settings as he may very rarely draw into the Lead side, or on the flip side he may use the whole bank frequently. This will be a matter of making a few notes as you use the camper - maybe how deep a discharge to go between charges and making tweeks as you learn more. Remember this is all just info for the user and doesn't impact how the batteries and chargers interact so you can't do any damage by trying different settings.

On his website he puts down a brilliant explanation of the hybrid but doesn’t explain the bmv settings he uses for each battery bank . I know he uses x3 shunts
1 lithium 1 lead and 1 for data for both battery banks
He said you can get away with just the 1 bmv or shunt and just use the lead profile settings on the shunt as the vsdr device does the work
I had a spare shunt the reason I wired each to each battery bank
I may take it out ? Just use the 1 bmv to monitor a hybrid bank instead of both banks it’s confusing lol

I have the the BMVs so I can carefully check just what is happening to each part of the battery bank and allows me to validate the theory of the Hybrid Setup in the 'real world' and develop the VSDR Lithium Controller to work how it does I guess I should update the info, but as noted above, settings on a Hybrid BMV can be different for each person (and also depends on charging capability, so can't really have a "do this; do that" set of settings. )
For the end user, it is not neccessary to have a BMV on each side (the BMVs are just a passive device and don't in themselves stop anything happening), but it is rather interesting (and people who accept and embrace the concept of the Hybrid setup and the use of the VSDR tend to be inqusitive and like to delve )

I have no issues with the hybrid it does work amazing

I am totally convinced by it. 100% Lithium is definately better than 100% Lead, but mixing the two truly is better than 100% of either

the battery master as you say it’s a headache
I’ve heard of the amt device from wildebus I’m looking into because this just isn’t right .

Remind me ... do you have the optional Bluetooth Module on the VSDR? If so and you did get the AMT12 you could use that module on both devices as they, and the Phone App, are compatible.
Not at the same time of course and you would have to move the plug over between the two, but with the one module you would be able to get into the fine tuning of both devices if you wanted to. Neither the VSDR or the AMT12 needs the Bluetooth to work perfectly out the box (as you have already found with the VDSR), but having that module takes you to another dimension of controllability (I like controllability )

these last few tweeks on the bmv we should be good to go

 

[seanwinder22]

Well, he is Fiddlesticksing useless I reckon!
(PS. That is what I tell him when I look in the mirror ) Maybe your mail ended up in a spam folder and never noticed? sorry about that, but least you have answers now.
For Lithium BMV, use the setting I have. For Lead or Hybrid BMV, I'd use around the 1% value.
The reason the Hybrid BMV settings are tricky is that for the first 200Ah of use, it is reading primarily Lithium Characteristics, and if you continue to draw from the Bank, it is reading Lead Characteristics, so becomes down to how YOU are using YOUR camper and someone else with an identical setup may need different settings as he may very rarely draw into the Lead side, or on the flip side he may use the whole bank frequently. This will be a matter of making a few notes as you use the camper - maybe how deep a discharge to go between charges and making tweeks as you learn more. Remember this is all just info for the user and doesn't impact how the batteries and chargers interact so you can't do any damage by trying different settings.


I have the the BMVs so I can carefully check just what is happening to each part of the battery bank and allows me to validate the theory of the Hybrid Setup in the 'real world' and develop the VSDR Lithium Controller to work how it does I guess I should update the info, but as noted above, settings on a Hybrid BMV can be different for each person (and also depends on charging capability, so can't really have a "do this; do that" set of settings. )
For the end user, it is not neccessary to have a BMV on each side (the BMVs are just a passive device and don't in themselves stop anything happening), but it is rather interesting (and people who accept and embrace the concept of the Hybrid setup and the use of the VSDR tend to be inqusitive and like to delve )

I am totally convinced by it. 100% Lithium is definately better than 100% Lead, but mixing the two truly is better than 100% of either

Remind me ... do you have the optional Bluetooth Module on the VSDR? If so and you did get the AMT12 you could use that module on both devices as they, and the Phone App, are compatible.
Not at the same time of course and you would have to move the plug over between the two, but with the one module you would be able to get into the fine tuning of both devices if you wanted to. Neither the VSDR or the AMT12 needs the Bluetooth to work perfectly out the box (as you have already found with the VDSR), but having that module takes you to another dimension of controllability (I like controllability )

bloody hell lol you are him this worked out pretty good then really . like I say the hybrid itself works brilliantly I agree it’s the best of both 100%
we only use Solar because totally off grid . the only ehu is at home to get that fortnightly charge
And on the vsdr device I didn’t get the Bluetooth option but I wish I did . That’s definitely my next purchase the Amt battery mastery I have been reading up on it this morning so I will be buying this

I have just changed my settings to what you posted on the lithium bmv

For the lead bmv I did a reset and kept default . I will keep my eye on it …. Should I leave the mppt tail current at 2amp or 4amp ? When I set it back up a moment ago and it asks what size battery 230ah the 2amp tail current comes up default on my 100/50 mppt

Once more question I have been on ehu now over 15 hours to give a good charge . To do a Soc synchronise to 100% of both bmv do I turn just the charger off then synchronise or isolate both battery’s so no load is coming in or out to do it
Thanks

 

[Hoovie]

bloody hell lol you are him this worked out pretty good then really . like I say the hybrid itself works brilliantly I agree it’s the best of both 100%
we only use Solar because totally off grid . the only ehu is at home to get that fortnightly charge
And on the vsdr device I didn’t get the Bluetooth option but I wish I did . That’s definitely my next purchase the Amt battery mastery I have been reading up on it this morning so I will be buying this

I have just changed my settings to what you posted on the lithium bmv

For the lead bmv I did a reset and kept default . I will keep my eye on it …. Should I leave the mppt tail current at 2amp or 4amp ? When I set it back up a moment ago and it asks what size battery 230ah the 2amp tail current comes up default on my 100/50 mppt

Once more question I have been on ehu now over 15 hours to give a good charge . To do a Soc synchronise to 100% of both bmv do I turn just the charger off then synchronise or isolate both battery’s so no load is coming in or out to do it
Thanks

If your multiplus has been on that long all should be charged but ..... there is a weird thing with Multipluses I have seen (and have myself) which might mean you are not full ...
When the Multiplus is set to ON, and there is no EHU plugged in, it is working as an Inverter only, as you will know. But quite often I have seen when I plug the EHU lead in, the Charger section goes straight to "Float" (maybe that was the last charging mode when the EHU lead was removed and it just went to the same mode?) and so you are not charging at the full voltage, so what you might want to do is switch the MP off and then on again so it goes into the right sequence of Bulk-Absorption-Float.
Don't have any info on the whys on that, but something to check.
So make sure that is right and then just do a resync to 100% later tonight.

 

[seanwinder22]

If your multiplus has been on that long all should be charged but ..... there is a weird thing with Multipluses I have seen (and have myself) which might mean you are not full ...
When the Multiplus is set to ON, and there is no EHU plugged in, it is working as an Inverter only, as you will know. But quite often I have seen when I plug the EHU lead in, the Charger section goes straight to "Float" (maybe that was the last charging mode when the EHU lead was removed and it just went to the same mode?) and so you are not charging at the full voltage, so what you might want to do is switch the MP off and then on again so it goes into the right sequence of Bulk-Absorption-Float.
Don't have any info on the whys on that, but something to check.
So make sure that is right and then just do a resync to 100% later tonight.

I haven’t noticed that no .. I have a control panel so when I charge I turn over to charge only I don’t place to inverter mode!
One thing I have noticed tho after a charge also when solar is off state . When I turn off charging and watch the bmv-s and see the volts dropping on both they go as low as 13 then from nowhere both jump back to 13.5
On the bmv for the lead bank that’s the only one I see loads taken from at 0.50 volts obviously for all the Victron equipment
Then it keeps dropping like I mentioned but goes to 13v but both bmv then jump back up
Is this the vsdr device

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[seanwinder22]

Like these images here after I’ve ended charge 20 mins ago look at the voltages going lower then jumper higher the lead side starts clearing the taken loads and swaps over to the lithium bmv

 

[seanwinder22]

this is how it’s sat now lol so from 12.9v it’s jumped back up

 

[seanwinder22]

Hoovie when will you have the amt Bluetooth in stock
I can see you have the Amt battery master but no Bluetooth device