Victron B2B settings Mercedes sprinter smart alternator

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Hi all, I have recently fitted a victron DC-DC battery charger to my 2016 sprinter. I have noticed that whilst driving the leisure battery (220amp lithium’s) are not being charged, in fact my BMV says I am negative circa 12amps. I noticed that whilst cruising on the motorway the alternator is only producing 12.3 - 12.4 volts and when I decelerate the volts raise to around 14v (I guess that is the idea of the smart alternator).
Does anyone know what settings I should use in the B2B app to ensure I get a charge for the leisure batteries whilst not running the vehicle battery down
Many thanks
 
We had to have a Redarc fitted by the dealer to overcome our Fiat Ducato smart Alternator as it was taking power from the leisure battery, this completely overrides the smart bit ensuring charge to both engine and leisure batteries.
Hi what’s a regarc please , I have exact same issue
 
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Hi what’s a regarc please , I have exact same issue
Here you go designed to force charge from the alternator.
 
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Tried all that , it’s quite clear the smart alternator is just too smart for the b2b , if supplier can’t come up with solution it will have to be put back to original and refunded . Shame though as when it works it’s an excellent system , gives so much power , can easily off grid for a week at a time , the system is ideal for those whom don’t have smart alternators!
Which model Victron do you have? Also do you have other charging sources such as solar?
 
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Here you go designed to force charge from the alternator.
Many thanks I’ll put this to the guys who installed my set up , as yet they can not come up with a remedy!

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Many thanks I’ll put this to the guys who installed my set up , as yet they can not come up with a remedy!
The Redarc is basically another B2B but it does incorporating an MPPT solar controller. This might help overcome the problem if you currently have a solar set up that is trying to charge the batteries at the same time as your B2B is trying to. The solar voltage may be giving the B2B the false impression that the battery is full and causing it to shut down. You still haven’t said whether you have solar and what Victron unit you have installed.
 
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Many ppl make the mistake and fit the B2B -ve feed from starter battery terminal. That’s bypassing the vehicle smart system’s shunt. On -ve starter batt there is a shunt. The -ve feed should be of the chassis so the system can register a draw, then alternator gets told to work and replace that draw.
 
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The Redarc is basically another B2B but it does incorporating an MPPT solar controller. This might help overcome the problem if you currently have a solar set up that is trying to charge the batteries at the same time as your B2B is trying to. The solar voltage may be giving the B2B the false impression that the battery is full and causing it to shut down. You still haven’t said whether you have solar and what Victron unit you have installed.
Oh yes I doubt it will be that then, I have 2 victron batteries , 2 victron orion b2b , victron 2k inverter and 525w of Solar , Solar works brilliantly when sun is out , but b2b more of that not don’t charge . At ridiculous speeds ie 10-15 mph and coasting the battery voltage will be up on the high 13/14s , although whenever any acceleration is applied the voltage will drop down to the 11s causing the charge to switch off, therefore rarely charging .. the fitter has Adjusted numbers in the orion app settings twice and it’s gone on to work perfectly for a day or two , but always ended up reverting back to volts dropping below those set , thanks
 
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Oh yes I doubt it will be that then, I have 2 victron batteries , 2 victron orion b2b , victron 2k inverter and 525w of Solar , Solar works brilliantly when sun is out , but b2b more of that not don’t charge . At ridiculous speeds ie 10-15 mph and coasting the battery voltage will be up on the high 13/14s , although whenever any acceleration is applied the voltage will drop down to the 11s causing the charge to switch off, therefore rarely charging .. the fitter has Adjusted numbers in the orion app settings twice and it’s gone on to work perfectly for a day or two , but always ended up reverting back to volts dropping below those set , thanks, furthermore , when it’s not charging , the system is drawing power , ie in minus . Normally around -30/40ah , although when it is charging it’s putting in 50-60a/h , but as said it’s rare it works
 
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Gents, as I am planning a Victron equipped set-up on my new camper I have been scouring any thread that I can find just to read others findings. Having read through most of this thread I have no answer to your charging problems but do note the following.
With a smart alternator which has a battery monitoring module on or adjacent to the -ve engine battery pole all other -ve connections should be connected to a chassis ground point. i.e. should not bypass the battery monitoring module.
For those researching Victron equipment and associated wiring I have a Victron document in .pdf format that explains the processes and technology of wiring their products. Unfortunately I cannot find a wat of adding this to the resources on this site but am quite happy for anyone wanting a copy to PM me and I will send it over.

Admin - if you can add this to the resources pages please drop me a PM and I will send it to you.

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Oh yes I doubt it will be that then, I have 2 victron batteries , 2 victron orion b2b , victron 2k inverter and 525w of Solar , Solar works brilliantly when sun is out , but b2b more of that not don’t charge . At ridiculous speeds ie 10-15 mph and coasting the battery voltage will be up on the high 13/14s , although whenever any acceleration is applied the voltage will drop down to the 11s causing the charge to switch off, therefore rarely charging .. the fitter has Adjusted numbers in the orion app settings twice and it’s gone on to work perfectly for a day or two , but always ended up reverting back to volts dropping below those set , thanks, furthermore , when it’s not charging , the system is drawing power , ie in minus . Normally around -30/40ah , although when it is charging it’s putting in 50-60a/h , but as said it’s rare it works
Are you sure the split charge relay is disabled? The B2B should not be able to send charge from the leisure battery to the starter battery, so there must another path for the amps, and it might be through the split charge relay.
 
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Oh yes I doubt it will be that then, I have 2 victron batteries , 2 victron orion b2b , victron 2k inverter and 525w of Solar , Solar works brilliantly when sun is out , but b2b more of that not don’t charge . At ridiculous speeds ie 10-15 mph and coasting the battery voltage will be up on the high 13/14s , although whenever any acceleration is applied the voltage will drop down to the 11s causing the charge to switch off, therefore rarely charging .. the fitter has Adjusted numbers in the orion app settings twice and it’s gone on to work perfectly for a day or two , but always ended up reverting back to volts dropping below those set , thanks
Not used 2 x B2Bs myself but I guess they have some way of synchronising with each other. What capacity are the 2 B2Bs? Some B2Bs drop out below 10.5V but by then the smart alternator should be working hard to push the engine battery back up to about 12.3V. Very strange! Is it possible that your 525W of solar are raising the voltage on the leisure battery side of the B2B to a point where it shuts down because the voltage has reached that set in the profile. With lithium profiles the shut down tends to be immediate as soon as the desired voltage is sensed. When I used solar I often found that the voltage would be up at 14V+ even though it was only producing milliamperes for want of proper sunshine.
 
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Same as you when I back off the throttle (coasting) a high input voltage and output voltage can be seen. Under normal driving it’s as if the alternator decides not to charge the battery and then the B2B thinks that the engine is turned off?
Hi I have exact same issue
 
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Are you sure the split charge relay is disabled? The B2B should not be able to send charge from the leisure battery to the starter battery, so there must another path for the amps, and it might be through the split charge relay.
Hi I’m.m not sure I’ll put everything that’s been said by you guys to installer tomorrow , thanks
 
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hi steveswift, how did you get on with at the installers?

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hi steveswift, how did you get on with at the installers?
Hi he said he wants to run a d plus ? From it which will force it constantly charge , however , as of late it’s been charging as it should , charges up real quick too!
 
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Hi he said he wants to run a d plus ? From it which will force it constantly charge , however , as of late it’s been charging as it should , charges up real quick too!
D+ is the proper way to activate a B2B, particularly important with smart alternators. If the installer was using voltage sensing then in my opinion they didn’t install it properly in the first place and it brings into question whether they really understand the systems involved.
 
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I’ve just had same victron fitted to mine which has smart alternator the default was already set to lifepo4 from new which is fine for my roamer 460amp
 
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D+ is the proper way to activate a B2B, particularly important with smart alternators. If the installer was using voltage sensing then in my opinion they didn’t install it properly in the first place and it brings into question whether they really understand the systems involved.
Really ? I don’t understand any of it myself , it’s a great system when it works! So do you think I should go and have the D+ fitted then ? Thanks
 
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I had the same problem on my 21 plate sprinter only charging when cruising. I changed the setting to
Engine shutdown detection - OFF
Input voltage lockout - DISABLED
Now works as it should, charge voltage settings have also been changed to battery manufacturers spec

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I Have the same set up on my 2017 Lunar Landstar Sprinter , and have had no Problems at all , only one concern. I have a voltage read out plugged into my cigar lighter and on a run it was showing 14.5 amps input which I thought was a bit high ? Didn't want to cook the Batteries (2 x110 amp Leisure) so used my mobile app to turn it down to 13.5 V, which I suspect is a bit low ?
 
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D+ is the proper way to activate a B2B, particularly important with smart alternators. If the installer was using voltage sensing then in my opinion they didn’t install it properly in the first place and it brings into question whether they really understand the systems involved.
Agreed, triggering from the D+ is the way forward. What's the D+? If you turn the key, the dash lights come on, including the red alternator light - that's the ignition. When you start the engine, the red alternator light goes off - that's the D+ kicking in. That's what is used to switch on the B2B, so that it's only ever working when the engine is running.

The smart alternator has a load sensor, so it can provide power for the B2B, or any other loads like lights, fan etc, and still keep space in the starter battery so it can charge when slowing down or braking.

The voltage goes all over the place, from 12.3 to 14.5, so there's no sensible threshold for triggering. Unlike a standard alternator which always stays over about 13.5V.
I Have the same set up on my 2017 Lunar Landstar Sprinter , and have had no Problems at all , only one concern. I have a voltage read out plugged into my cigar lighter and on a run it was showing 14.5 amps input which I thought was a bit high ? Didn't want to cook the Batteries (2 x110 amp Leisure) so used my mobile app to turn it down to 13.5 V, which I suspect is a bit low ?
A good B2B will have a smart charging algorithm, and will be constantly monitoring the battery amps and volts. 14.5V is fine for the 'absorption' stage of the charge process. When the batteries get full, the amps will drop, and the B2B should automatically switch to the 'float' voltage of about 13.5V.
 
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I had the same problem on my 21 plate sprinter only charging when cruising. I changed the setting to
Engine shutdown detection - OFF
Input voltage lockout - DISABLED
Now works as it should, charge voltage settings have also been changed to battery manufacturers spec
Mine was only
Charging when costing or at very low Speeds! Some parameters have since been reduced right down in the settings and it seems to be working well! He has said if I want to go back down he’ll fit a d+ but as it’s working now I’m thinking do I drive 200 miles down to Devon ?
 
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You must have a d+ signal present anyway as this is how the fridge is powered via 12v so getting that signal wire is easily achieved 👍
 
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You must have a d+ signal present anyway as this is how the fridge is powered via 12v so getting that signal wire is easily achieved 👍
Not if you have a compressor fridge

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Really ? I don’t understand any of it myself , it’s a great system when it works! So do you think I should go and have the D+ fitted then ? Thanks
Yes, autorouter has given a full explanation above. In my opinion relying on the inbuilt voltage sensing of the B2B is the lazy way of wiring it up. Probably works with standard alternators but not with smart ones because the alternator voltage output varies so much. The installer should have known this so don’t let him charge you for putting this right.
 
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Yes, autorouter has given a full explanation above. In my opinion relying on the inbuilt voltage sensing of the B2B is the lazy way of wiring it up. Probably works with standard alternators but not with smart ones because the alternator voltage output varies so much. The installer should have known this so don’t let him charge you for putting this right.
Oh , I wouldn’t be expecting a charge with the inconvenience it’s caused me! As I say after some changes in the settings it has worked consistently , so I’m just wondering if it’s worth the 400 mile round trip to get The d plus fitted , or maybe wait for it to start playing up again and then have it done
 
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Yes, autorouter has given a full explanation above. In my opinion relying on the inbuilt voltage sensing of the B2B is the lazy way of wiring it up. Probably works with standard alternators but not with smart ones because the alternator voltage output varies so much. The installer should have known this so don’t let him charge you for putting
Victron does work with Smart Alternators, I checked this by watching You tube before fitting one to my Mercedes Camper, the explanation of how two different Types of B2B work, and they demonstrated how to define if your engine is fitted with a smart alternator, Its all on You Tube if you search for the Victron B2B demo. just a thought.
 
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Victron does work with Smart Alternators, I checked this by watching You tube before fitting one to my Mercedes Camper, the explanation of how two different Types of B2B work, and they demonstrated how to define if your engine is fitted with a smart alternator, Its all on You Tube if you search for the Victron B2B demo. just a thought.
Yes Victron B2Bs can work with smart alternators. I haven’t said they can’t.
 
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