Very tempted

[Dunslow]

I agree with most of that Tam, and I took out pretty much all the ambulance electrical system and then rewired using a lot of their kit but not via the circuit boards and relays in the control box. A lot of the switching was done via relays so to power a few led lights the relays were using more electric than the led's. I also removed the inner skin/ floor as the steelwork behind it must have weighed in at half a ton. I knew all this before I got another one. Learnt the hard way. lol. Any water ingress roof side will also soak the insulation, but not show up in the hab area as nicely fibreglass (don't go there) sealed skin. So any water runs down inside the skin and rots the inner sills out. If you can remedy, they're still a very good van / size/ reliable.

 

[Dunslow]

Its rare to find engines that cant do high miles these days . Guy that works with me has a 2003 ford fiesta 1.1L that's got just over 300k on it

Funnily enough I was talking two of the Ford engine design team recently (who were grumbling that Ford were moving engine design to Germany?). Since approx 2010 the design criteria has been to spec engines for 100,000 miles and / or 3 years. Most manufacturers are doing the same now. It saves them money (more profit), and takes the vehicles beyond lease responsibility. They also did the same thing with the original 2.8i ignition modules where the first 100,000 were bomb proof, the spec'd lower. I'll stick to my 'mature' vans whilst I can (legislation/ emissions allowing). And I can fix with a big hammer, or if electrical, tape.

 

[JoshnPen]

Ours is old enough not to have the dreaded engine management light!

 

[chaser]

I agree with most of that Tam, and I took out pretty much all the ambulance electrical system and then rewired using a lot of their kit but not via the circuit boards and relays in the control box. A lot of the switching was done via relays so to power a few led lights the relays were using more electric than the led's. I also removed the inner skin/ floor as the steelwork behind it must have weighed in at half a ton. I knew all this before I got another one. Learnt the hard way. lol. Any water ingress roof side will also soak the insulation, but not show up in the hab area as nicely fibreglass (don't go there) sealed skin. So any water runs down inside the skin and rots the inner sills out. If you can remedy, they're still a very good van / size/ reliable.

I am not trying to start a debate was just saying what I would like to do,and pointing out what they have already got but why would the roof leak? And why would it rot galvanised steel , and mine is still running on the electricals it came with ,with no trouble whatsoever.
We are talking patient transport ambulances here not blue lighters they have been used pretty much as mini buses not raced.
And another plus for anyone who would need them, most come with a built in wheelchair automatic ramp.

 

[Dunslow]

I am not trying to start a debate was just saying what I would like to do,and pointing out what they have already got but why would the roof leak? And why would it rot galvanised steel , and mine is still running on the electricals it came with ,with no trouble whatsoever.
We are talking patient transport ambulances here not blue lighters they have been used pretty much as mini buses not raced.
And another plus for anyone who would need them, most come with a built in wheelchair automatic ramp.

OK, (long post sorry), not to discourage anyone from a project or having a go themselves, it's admirable to get stuck in, and at the price it should then give several years (more than) of touring holidays. You also have the knowledge you can fix it stuck in a lay-by in Poland.
This is related to my own experience on several of these PTS and St. John's Ambulances and not a go at you, yours or anyone who has done one/ thinking of doing one.
BUT, I've learnt from both the experience and working in the sector that if a body seam/ skylight / wiring access and aerials leaks
a)it's not noticeable so goes untreated/ resolved and
b) if noticed and actually traced back to the actual leak (which could take hours/days), it's then sealed 9/10 with silicone rather than removing/ cleaning/ treating the rust/ reseal using non-acidic pu sealant so doesn't bond and adhere therefore seal. Repeat cycle. And I'll say now, that a contract vehicle will probable not leak during it's initial service period but sealants eventually breakdown and leak and no contract maintenance workshop will do what is required due to the financial cost ALLOWED by the leasing company to 'fix' the leak.
Secondly, although galvanised at manufacture, when they cut the holes in the roof (and windows), they then don't treat the raw edge, or if they do it's not substantial enough to last more than a few years (but they don't care because it'll be outside warranty period). Also, on Movano and Masters, they cut the vertical supports away and stitch weld steel plates into the hole so that the nice shiny fibreglass (don't go there), is a flat surface and the internal sides don't have 'ribs' vertically. Then throw in the steel plates welded up on the ceiling to support the lockers etc. All those welds will get a splash of rust inhibitor on the VISIBLE face of the raw steel sheet inserted, and the welds.
Oh, and they add fluffy roll insulation just so it absorbs any water to keep the evaporate-absorb-evaporate cycle going in perpetuity.

If you have the patient transfer version with the 'slide into the floor' version ramp (normally in stainless 2/3mm 65-190kg), and unwin tracks for wheelchair securing then the floor has a sub floor "chassis" underneath it made of 75x50x3 (untreated) steel box section that is bolted through the floor every 100mm as per regs. each hole is not treated either. The van is attached to that floor, not the floor is attached to the van!!

If you get one, and want to keep it for long enough to justify the cost/ doing it, strip it out, rectify any issues (there WILL be issues), lose at least 750kg, gain headroom and an insulated floor, and replace what you want of the original. (And the fibreglass roof and side panels and floor structure are usually bonded with 25 tubes of sikaflex [and you'll likely need to cut each unwin bolt as carbide bits don't cut the Allen heads]). They are stuck proper. I use Goodridge stainless lock wire as a garrotte/ cheers wire to release in sections. Or use as is but watch your weight..
I've got one, and I'm not knocking it, just be aware of the above so you can deal with it as you see fit, it's yours after all.

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[pelican]

For anyone who may be half interested, you in fact are more than half way there with these vehicles, all the hab batteries and split charging are already in as is windows, insulation, roof lights , roof fan, all rear lighting, lockers , diesel night heater, they are really nearly ready for the off, water and gas is all they need for the basic van.

Get them to throw in a gas ring and double stretcher and your done

 

[Dunslow]

I've just had a better look at the photos in the Ebay listing, it's got a roof fan and a skylight, and if you look at photos 6 and especially 7, those bubbles on the seams at the surface are nothing compared to what's under the trim/ inside the van/ floor/ sills..

 

[chaser]

OK, (long post sorry), not to discourage anyone from a project or having a go themselves, it's admirable to get stuck in, and at the price it should then give several years (more than) of touring holidays. You also have the knowledge you can fix it stuck in a lay-by in Poland.
This is related to my own experience on several of these PTS and St. John's Ambulances and not a go at you, yours or anyone who has done one/ thinking of doing one.
BUT, I've learnt from both the experience and working in the sector that if a body seam/ skylight / wiring access and aerials leaks
a)it's not noticeable so goes untreated/ resolved and
b) if noticed and actually traced back to the actual leak (which could take hours/days), it's then sealed 9/10 with silicone rather than removing/ cleaning/ treating the rust/ reseal using non-acidic pu sealant so doesn't bond and adhere therefore seal. Repeat cycle. And I'll say now, that a contract vehicle will probable not leak during it's initial service period but sealants eventually breakdown and leak and no contract maintenance workshop will do what is required due to the financial cost ALLOWED by the leasing company to 'fix' the leak.
Secondly, although galvanised at manufacture, when they cut the holes in the roof (and windows), they then don't treat the raw edge, or if they do it's not substantial enough to last more than a few years (but they don't care because it'll be outside warranty period). Also, on Movano and Masters, they cut the vertical supports away and stitch weld steel plates into the hole so that the nice shiny fibreglass (don't go there), is a flat surface and the internal sides don't have 'ribs' vertically. Then throw in the steel plates welded up on the ceiling to support the lockers etc. All those welds will get a splash of rust inhibitor on the VISIBLE face of the raw steel sheet inserted, and the welds.
Oh, and they add fluffy roll insulation just so it absorbs any water to keep the evaporate-absorb-evaporate cycle going in perpetuity.

If you have the patient transfer version with the 'slide into the floor' version ramp (normally in stainless 2/3mm 65-190kg), and unwin tracks for wheelchair securing then the floor has a sub floor "chassis" underneath it made of 75x50x3 (untreated) steel box section that is bolted through the floor every 100mm as per regs. each hole is not treated either. The van is attached to that floor, not the floor is attached to the van!!

If you get one, and want to keep it for long enough to justify the cost/ doing it, strip it out, rectify any issues (there WILL be issues), lose at least 750kg, gain headroom and an insulated floor, and replace what you want of the original. (And the fibreglass roof and side panels and floor structure are usually bonded with 25 tubes of sikaflex [and you'll likely need to cut each unwin bolt as carbide bits don't cut the Allen heads]). They are stuck proper. I use Goodridge stainless lock wire as a garrotte/ cheers wire to release in sections. Or use as is but watch your weight..
I've got one, and I'm not knocking it, just be aware of the above so you can deal with it as you see fit, it's yours after all.

God, I'm taking mine to the scrap yard tomorrow

 

[chaser]

Good vans and fairly well spec'd at that price, (be even better if it was £1500 cheaper). Mine is the older Master version. It'd allow you to tweak anything from the current van you did that you'd change, then sell on the current one? They're in demand so should sell well. Go on, go for it

Sorry to but in but if you have the previous model, it's not galvanised so a different animal, agree it should be £1500 cheaper but the advert is only the starting price.
Any chance of having a look at yours?
Btw I have sent you a pm with a specific question to converting the electrics.

 

[Dunslow]

I do have the previous model myself as I prefer the 2.8td engine. I did have a 2008 2.5 with a knackered engine that I put a 2.8 in but got hammered by insurance for having a modified vehicle. so reverted back to the 2001 version. As is visible on the Ebay photos, my comments and experience with the later galvanised versions still stands on my experience with them. I've done a few now and they're all the same, no surprises. Sorry but the £1500 remark was a little pedantic/ humorous pending view.

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