Two Go To Sicily

[DBK]

It is worth coming to this aire just to have a walk around the town of Soragna, the centre of which is just a few minutes walk away.

The centre is pleasant:

Just beyond this is the Fortress Mela Lupi.

I got it's age completely wrong, perhaps early 19th or 18th Centuries I wondered, no, think some five hundred years earlier. It was built around 1250 and a member of the original family still lives there apparently.

Either side of the main entrance are lions.

"It's my ball and you're not playing with it!"

After these exertions we retired to the Cafe Grandee, which is just off to the right in the first picture, and ordered two glasses of wine. This is what arrived.

Hmm, tourist special I thought, but wrongly, €5 for the lot. The Parma ham was very nice - soft and easily chewed. We struggled to finish the crisps afterwards.

But we did reflect, while eating and drinking, on what we found just on the edge of the town square.

Some background is here: https://it.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eccidio_di_Soragna
If you use Chrome it should translate but the gist of it was 5 Partisan prisoners, aged 17, 18, 19, 21 and 42, according to the inscription (the link has slightly different ages) were shot against this wall by Italian Fascists as a reprisal in March 1945. Sad times but it's no wonder the Fascists lost - they couldn't even shoot well.

 

[DBK]

"Downwards and southwards" was today's motto. We are now past Florence, which the perverse locals insist on calling Firenze and have stopped on an ACSI campsite near Arezzo. We weren't planning on using a site but last night was very hot and sweaty - we ran the Endless Breeze fan all night. This wasn't a major problem and we expect to do it again, but was a pain was not being able to sit out in the evening. There are plenty of aires where you can sit out but where we were last night the pitches you could sit out on were all bagged! We were left looking out onto a path. But no matter and we could have chosen an aire tonight because it has become cooler with a bit of a breeze. Thunder rumbles but a long way away at the moment.

Where we are is here:

We lost a good hour in heavy traffic today. After Modena all four lanes were solid and stationary to begin with. It was stop/start for ages and due to a nasty accident in the other carriageway I think - a car between two lorries.

Google maps has really improved and after being stuck in the queue I checked to find it knew all about the slow traffic.

The red lines are slow/stationary traffic. I must look at a way of using my phone mounted on the dash - we could have turned off if we had seen the Google maps info in time.

We still have nearly 900 km to go, which at current progress should take about four days.

The time estimate must be for a typical Italian driver! We will do it in shorter hops.

 

[DBK]

This is a completely out of context post, but I need to record it, otherwise I might forget!

The LeClerc supermarket at Brissac Quincé (the place with the ballons) has a MH washing point next to it. There is a gantry where you can wash the roof of your MH using their hoses and brushes.

A clever idea and one I would use myself if I lived a bit nearer.

 

[Taran_Las]

Like this one at Cancale.

 

[DBK]

Like this one at Cancale.

View attachment 183063

That's the thing.

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[DBK]

All roads lead to Rome they say and were are heading that way, though we will swerve away at the last moment.

We are staying at a really good aire, CC4862 at Montopoli di Sabina. It is free, including free electric if you need it, has great views and is very close to the village.

The road here was bone-shaking rough but the drive was worth it. Fortunately our route out should be better tomorrow as we won't have to retrace our steps.

There are more than one Montopoli in Italy, we stayed at a different Montopoli last year which also had another good aire.

This Montopoli is a classic village on a hill which when you are there in it is impossible to photograph - unless you have a drone, which I don't. So I took a photograph of a mural under an arch instead which showed the view from outside.

The views look out onto the surrounding countryside are impressive.

From another viewpoint we could see evidence of a recent, though small scale, fire.

Someone's olive trees have been singed.

The village itself is worth a walk around. It was deserted when I visited this afternoon but this evening the few bars were very busy - too busy for us to get a seat!

The view from the aire west at sunset.

 

[hilldweller]

You are inches from Villa D'Este, one of the finest sights in Europe. Also Nero's Palace.

 

[DBK]

You are inches from Villa D'Este, one of the finest sights in Europe. Also Nero's Palace.

Such a lot to see in Italy - and never enough time.

Looking at the map we are barely over halfway down through Italy, just to get to the toe. The plan is to put in some miles tomorrow - being a Sunday it would be nice to think there will be fewer lorries on the road.

 

[Mr Ed]

You are inches from Villa D'Este, one of the finest sights in Europe. Also Nero's Palace.

But I suspect the fountains will be turned off.

 

[GAVLAD]

Following this with excitement as we may look to Italy next year.
Safe travels & enjoy!

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[DBK]

Following this with excitement as we may look to Italy next year.
Safe travels & enjoy!

It's a very long way. Just clocked up 1400 miles since Roscoe a short while ago and we are still a little way north of Naples. About 36 hours of driving so far.
Now stopped for lunch. Travelling on the autostrada quite relaxed as there are virtually no lorries on the road.

 

[DBK]

We cracked on a bit today, a little over two hundred miles and we are now at the rolled down sock part of the boot of Italy. Or known to geographers as Basilicata, the bit below this is the more well known Calabria. We saw quite a few sites of recent fires on the way down. Most fairly small, just a couple of acres, but these were near villages where presumably everyone turned out to tackle them. But one fire covered half a mountainside.

We drove passed Vesuvius on the way - it's bigger than I expected! No photos partly because I failed to stop at the only service station with a reasonable view and partly because the sun was in the wrong position.

Before we left Montopoli di Sabina this morning I took another shot of the view.

A great aire but a very steep climb out and the road was still damp after some light overnight rain. We got out but I can understand the reviews on CamperContact which talk about wheel spin.

We are on a commercial aire near Padula tonight, #48476 on CC.

Only us here at the moment. The owner, Mario*, has given us a plateful of figs which are scrumptious! Green in colour but very soft and juicy.

Only downside is there quite a lot of flies - Mario keeps a horse and goat in a pen next to the MHs but they aren't biting flies - or not so far.

I'm not sure if I'm going to be fed tonight. I forgot Mrs DBK's birthday! She says her cards were on the breakfast table this morning - but I didn't see them!! Or see them when she hung them up after we arrived here!!! Fortunately, when reminded of the day - think hint heavy with sarcasm - I quickly found the card I had pre-packed for today. Phew!!!! Might have got away with only a few days on bread and water.

*I don't think he is a plumber.

 

[DBK]

Before I forget, when we drove over the Col du Pt Saint Bernard I said we had seen lots of runners. I have now discovered this was possibly something linked to the Ultra-Marathon du Mont Blanc which finished today. 105 miles through three countries.
http://www.utmbmontblanc.com/en/live/utmb
The sort of thing @jumar and @jumartoo would love I guess - though doing it without a support team must be hard. Next year's event is 27 August to 2 September if you want to put it in your diary.
The runners I saw were a little south of the Ultra-Marathon route so perhaps a "junior event" but gruelling enough I am sure.

 

[jumartoo]

Before I forget, when we drove over the Col du Pt Saint Bernard I said we had seen lots of runners. I have now discovered this was possibly something linked to the Ultra-Marathon du Mont Blanc which finished today. 105 miles through three countries.
http://www.utmbmontblanc.com/en/live/utmb
The sort of thing @jumar and @jumartoo would love I guess - though doing it without a support team must be hard. Next year's event is 27 August to 2 September if you want to put it in your diary.
The runners I saw were a little south of the Ultra-Marathon route so perhaps a "junior event" but gruelling enough I am sure.

May have loved it 25 - 30 years ago but now !!!

 

[DBK]

We have abandoned the autostradas - which are a mixed bunch, mostly an excellent surface though they can't seem to get the joins between bridges right. You are bowling along smoothly then a bridge looms into view - crash, bang* - then smoothly over the bridge - bang, crash - and then smoothly along the autostrada. Perhaps the Italians haven't discovered the spirit level? If so this may explain the well known tower in Pisa.

The potholes of Italy are also to blame for why I thought my dash cam was playing up. The card was saying it was full and upon investigation I found it full of protected files. The camera has a g sensor and when I hit a pothole it thought we had had an accident and protected that clip of video. The number of potholes in Italy exceeds my 32Mb SD card! I've now turned the sensor off but may try it on a lower sensitivity later.

All of which is a digression. We have left the autostrada for the sea!

We are staying two nights at an €11 a night ACSI site at Praia a Mare.

Not quite the instep of Italy's foot, but we are getting closer in this podiatric stage of the expedition.

We went for a short walk this morning to look at the nearby Isola di Dino.

The origin of the name is uncertain but it might come from the Greek dino meaning a storm or vortex - hopefully we won't have any of those while we are here.

Last night I took Mrs DBK out for a birthday supper at the camp restaurant, only a day late so not too bad by my standards.

Mary had a "Buffalina" with real buffalo mozzarella (above - it was very creamy) while had a "Romana" with lots of olives, capers and anchovies. (below) They were very filling and we had no room for a ice-cream afterwards.

I guess it's inevitable we get the Sicilian type of pizza here and not the Neapolitan I prefer but at €6.50 and €7.00 each respectively they weren't expensive. Washed down with a nice red the total bill was €25 - before anyone starts a guessing game.

When we got back to the van someone started up with some loud music but it wasn't too hot and by closing the main rooflight, which was acting like an ear trumpet as it was pointing towards the noise it was quiet enough to fall asleep. The site does have a quiet period but it starts at 00:30 am!

We will head off along the coast tomorrow, aiming for Tropea but we may have to stop somewhere on the way as it's some distance along what I guess is a slow road along the coast.



* "crash, bang" is fine. If you hear "crash, bang, wallop" this is not good. You have hit someone.

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[Langtoftlad]

View attachment 183744
The origin of the name is uncertain but it might come from the Greek dino meaning a storm or vortex

I immediately "saw" a dog swimming in the sea with just it's head above water

... total bill was €25 - before anyone starts a guessing game.

Spoilsport

 

[hilldweller]

We drove passed Vesuvius on the way -

OK so now you've driven past Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi.

Indeed A Man On A Mission.

 

[DBK]

I immediately "saw" a dog swimming in the sea with just it's head above water

It could of course be named after Fred Flinstone's pet dinosaur which was called Dino.

OK so now you've driven past Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi.

Indeed A Man On A Mission.

Indeed, we have ignored millennia of human history getting here. The problem of course is if we stopped at all the interesting places along the way we would run out of time.

But this won't be the last time we visit Italy I think but I just wish it wasn't so long and thin.

 

[DBK]

Threatening skies earlier this evening, but nothing has come of it fortunately, though I suspect the locals would like some heavy rain.

Looking in the other direction the sun was setting.

We had been for a swim earlier - the sea temperature was supposed to be 26°C according to a website I looked at - still chilly when you first got in though.

 

[DBK]

When we stayed near Padula, at the Il Tiglio sosta the owner Mario plied us with free figs and when we came to leave we bought a kilo of his organic small plum tomatoes, which had a very intense flavour. He wouldn't entertain selling us less than a kilo so we may have to get inventive with them later in the week.

But Mrs DBK excelled herself for lunch today: Parma ham, figs, tomatoes, goats' cheese and salad with oil and balsamic vinegar. Simple but luscious. Supper this evening was a homemade quiche. I'm a spoilt man.

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[DBK]

We have moved to what mountaineers might call their last camp before the summit push. Which in our case is our last stop in mainland Italy before we cross the Straits of Messina. An exercise where hopefully we will avoid the depredations of Scylla and Charybdis, the mythical sea monsters noted by Homer who live on opposite sides of the Straits.

We are staying at an ACSI site in Tropea - and it is still heaving with visitors. The last place was very much winding down though not here yet.

Tropea is quite a spectacular place and I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow.

As an introduction, here's the close-up map.

As usual we're under the blue blob in the upper right but if you look left you will see, some fifty miles away, the island of Ginostra, one of the Aeolian Islands. Not perhaps well known but it is home to one of the most active volcanoes you will find - Stromboli. Indeed, the island is the volcano so I'm not sure why they didn't just call the island Stromboli. The view of the island from the beach below the site at sunset is quite nice.

The flatulent Stromboli (you can see some fumes at the summit in the picture above) gives its name to any type of eruption where bursts of hot gas fling blobs of larva into the air - Strombolian eruptions. Hopefully if there are any from Etna when we are on Sicily we will be at a respectable distance.

 

[Glandwr]

Don't forget the Riace bronzes mate. You are almost there. If you are interested I'll look up carpark coordinates 2 minutes walk from them that we parked up (8mtrs) at 1 euro an hour.

Dick

 

[DBK]

Don't forget the Riace bronzes mate. You are almost there. If you are interested I'll look up carpark coordinates 2 minutes walk from them that we parked up (8mtrs) at 1 euro an hour.

Dick

Just been looking them up, wiki has coordinates of the museum but if you have some for a car park please send them.

 

[Glandwr]

We were looking for the free aire no 8437 on campingcarinfos (38.11469, 15.64922) but overshot it and ended in attended car park 38.11445, 15.64968. Literally a 5 minute walk across the main road from the museum. You wouldn't regret it they are incredible, to think that they are over 2 and a half thousand years old is breathtaking. You have to go though a type of "air lock" to view them so precious are they. Interested to see what you make of them.

Dick

 

[hilldweller]

avoid the depredations of Scylla and Charybdis,

No problem, you have the modern equivalent, il Cosa Nostra.

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[DBK]

Geographical correction: The island with the volcano is called Strómboli. Google maps was showing a place name, the island name only shows up if you zoom in.
It is one of the Aeolian islands, named after the Greek God of wind.
Down to earth people, the Greeks. Who else would have a God of f**ting.

 

[DBK]

We explored Tropea this morning. It isn't the sort of place which would normally attract us but it has a spectacular setting.

From the campsite there are steps leading up into the town just a short distance away. Halfway up the steps there is a convenient place to stop and take photographs - and have a rest.

The Monastery of Santa Mari dell'Isola seen from the steps.

There has been a religious building on this site since at least medieval times but what you can see now is the result of rebuilding after the 1905 earthquake.

The town is well prepared for tourists and there were some up market restaurants tucked away in quiet corners.

The sign above says "Gelati" so it would have been a shame not to try their wares.

Pleasant (€2 a tub) but a bit too sweet for us. We've had better in Italy so clearly more fieldwork required to find the best.

Some of the shops were colourful.

Note the chillies hanging up. We saw a lot for sale beside the road on the way here, also melons and onions, lots of onions. The region around Tropea is famous for its red onions - cipolla di Tropea - and there are some in the bottom right of the display.

We then descended the steps from the town and ascended the steps to the monastery, €2 entry fee but worth it for the views.

Looking west towards Capo Vaticano.

The beach, it would be fair to say, is fully exploited. €15 a day for two sun loungers and an umbrella followed by a hot shower for €1 according to one sign we saw.

Looking east.

A busy beach!

 

[DBK]

We have arrived in Sicily! A few yards short of 1800 miles from Roscoff and some 46 hours of driving according to the trip recorder. Average mpg 31.9. It's taken longer than I expected, 16 days, but we have had three stops of two nights each in campsites. You could do it in less time of course, but even a full week would give you 8+ hours on the road each day including stops. We haven't come the quickest way, we avoided the toll roads in France until we got near Lyon and the trip to Tropea must have added extra miles. I had originally estimated the distance would be 1600 miles and that is probably correct taking the fastest and most direct path.

Tropea was an interesting place to visit but a challenge to escape from. My suggestion, if you arrive in Tropea by the direct route from the north would be to simply retrace your steps back to the autostrada north east of Pizzo. Try to avoid the cross-country route.

I had originally intended us to visit Reggio di Calabria to see the Riace bronze figures but it soon became clear as we painstakingly clawed our way out of the clutches of Tropea we wouldn't arrive until early afternoon when no doubt the museum will be closed. So we have postponed that visit for the return - which makes sense as we will be going that way anyway as we intend to return via the east coast after exploring the underside and heel of the Italian boot.

Another lesson learned, avoid crossing to Sicily on Friday afternoons. It is probably always busy but I suspect this is one of the busiest times.

Had we arrived fifteen minutes earlier we might have caught this ferry (€93 open return ticket) but we only waited about that time in the queue before we boarded the next one - which was a cheerful bright yellow.

It takes about half an hour to cross and the sea was very calm.

Approaching Messina.

The disembarking was fun. The crew just drop the ramp and stand back, leaving the four lanes of vehicles on the ship to drive off, merging into two lanes on the ramp. None of the officious Brittany Ferries stuff with a crew member directing traffic.

It had started to rain gently while we crossed the Straits of Messina. Disappointingly, no whirlpools or sea monsters were visible during the crossing but we could sea waves braking over a reef or shoal and evidence of strong currents. The moon is about full now so there will be big tides occurring, by Mediterranean standards that is. The forecast tidal range this week at Tropea, when I checked, was a shade over 1m, which took me by surprise as I had always thought Mediterranean tides were much smaller. Perhaps the disturbances in the water we could see gave rise to the myths of sea monsters?

Tonight and tomorrow night we are staying on an ACSI site at Oliveri, on the north coast road to Palermo. This will give us time to wash Charlie's bedding, which is getting very dirty!

We are going to tour Sicily anti-clockwise for no better reason than going this way around means we can end with a bang at Mount Etna. Well, not a real bang of course, (I hope) but it seems appropriate to finish with Sicily's most famous site.

It's still a bit uncertain how long we will stay on the island. We can allow ourselves a maximum of about four weeks, without changing the return ferry from Roscoff.

We shall just see how we get on. It rained for a while as we drove from Messina today but sunshine is forecast for tomorrow.

 

[SMB]

High temperatures, forest fires and water shortages are amongst the natural hazards we may have to face. I have also loaded an app onto my phone called "Volcanoes and Earthquakes" which will alert me to any seismic or volcanic activity near us. What me, worried? Not at all! We are looking forward to seeing Mount Etna which I understand after being quiet for the last few months has started rumbling again. It must be getting as excited as we are at meeting each other.

Compared to previous trips the Murvi is now loaded with luxuries - a hairdryer for Mrs DBK and a small espresso machine for me. Knowing my luck the cheapo inverter powering these will pack up depriving us of their joys but we can at least set out in hope.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the volcano app, might come in handy as we plan to visit Sardinia, Sicily and mainland Italy! If you get a chance, do the Stromboli trip, I took the ferry trip from Milazzo I think and found it to be very interesting and you visit San Pietro for a couple of hours beforehand. I found this sign on San Pietro very informative and comforting...the escape route is to run uphill until you get to the top [

 

[hilldweller]

OK, only one place left for you to miss, Montalbano's House.

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