Truma combi remote switch (5 Viewers)

[DavidCh]

This is driving me mad!

So. We have all been there, it’s cold, I want the heating on but not at the cost of getting out of bed! What I need is a timer. Easy, I thought, just add the cp remote panel, it’s expensive at £150 but ok. Of course I can’t, my circuit board is v3 and I have to buy a new one to take it to v5 at a cost of about £350. This is not a £500 problem.

I can’t find a circuit diagram for the control unit but surely there must be a way to just remotely switch it in an off? I can preset the temperature and mode, I just want to switch it on.

Any help appreciated

 

[Burgo]

I too have wondered that it surely can not be beyond the wit of man simply to identify the wire(s) at the back on the knob that says "hit it" to the boiler, and wire a simple timer in series? Been thinking about this for a while, or maybe doing it at the boiler end as that's below our bed. On the meantime we tend to leave the whole show ticking over at around 16 - 28c (around 2.5 on our Truma dial of eternal confusion) all night in winter.

 

[DavidCh]

I too have wondered that it surely can not be beyond the wit of man simply to identify the wire(s) at the back on the knob that says "hit it" to the boiler, and wire a simple timer in series? Been thinking about this for a while, or maybe doing it at the boiler end as that's below our bed. On the meantime we tend to leave the whole show ticking over at around 16 - 28c (around 2.5 on our Truma dial of eternal confusion) all night in winter.

I suspect it’s more complex as it looks like some kind of signal cable. I bet it’s something standard like rs485/ttl but it’s a very long time since I have messed with this stuff. I dont know on the boiler end as it’s going to be more than just switching the power. Assuming a Truma is like other heaters it won’t like having the power pulled. There is an unused connector on the board but without a diagram or documentation it’s more than my skill set can debug

 

[donkey]

An unused connector on the circuit board may well be a diagnostic port.

Geoff

 

[Lenny HB]

Andy Techno (RIP) did it.

Truma 6002 remote control "MRC"

I am about to embark on installing the first ever (to my knowledge) remote control for my 6002 This device has been designed and manufactured by an Italian who unfortunately got dismissed from the other side under "spamming rules" this was very unfortunate and short sighted as he had not even...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

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[Pausim]

I have a Truma iNet box attached to my Combi 6E and can control it from my bed, using a phone app. Unfortunately I think they have now discontinued the box.

 

[Lenny HB]

I have a Truma iNet box attached to my Combi 6E and can control it from my bed, using a phone app. Unfortunately I think they have now discontinued the box.

Yep discontinued and OP didn't want to go down the route of the CP Plus.

 

[DavidCh]

An unused connector on the circuit board may well be a diagnostic port.

Geoff

Yeah, I was just hoping I could find some documentation to see if that port can switch in and off as part of any diagnostics. There just does not seem to anything on how this works, which is unusual these days.

 

[DavidCh]

Yep discontinued and OP didn't want to go down the route of the CP Plus.

I can get the parts still, it was the £500 I did not like

 

[Lenny HB]

I can get the parts still, it was the £500 I did not like

It's just the iNet that's been discontinued.

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[Just smiffy]

Couldn’t you move the controller near to the bed and fill the hole left with sockets…

 

[DavidCh]

Couldn’t you move the controller near to the bed and fill the hole left with sockets…

Hadn’t thought of that solution. Pretty obvious though . I really wanted a timer though

 

[BeeHappy]

Get the new Truma controller, it has a Bluetooth interface that lets you control it from your phone.

 

[Lenny HB]

Get the new Truma controller, it has a Bluetooth interface that lets you control it from your phone.

Read the OP too expensive for his boiler as it would need a new PCB.

 

[Just smiffy]

Hadn’t thought of that solution. Pretty obvious though . I really wanted a timer though

Simples…. Move the controls to the bed area, set alarm on phone reach arm out and turn on…. You like making life difficult don’t ya…

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[ED O'DARAC]

This is driving me mad!

So. We have all been there, it’s cold, I want the heating on but not at the cost of getting out of bed! What I need is a timer. Easy, I thought, just add the cp remote panel, it’s expensive at £150 but ok. Of course I can’t, my circuit board is v3 and I have to buy a new one to take it to v5 at a cost of about £350. This is not a £500 problem.

I can’t find a circuit diagram for the control unit but surely there must be a way to just remotely switch it in an off? I can preset the temperature and mode, I just want to switch it on.

Any help appreciated

Ha!! Completely agree! If only motorhome designers USED motorhomes they would add the heater switches next to the bed pronto!! I think I agree with the 'move the control and fill the hole in' comment. Best of luck.

 

[dorkins]

Don't have to get out of bed, can turn the heater and the hot water on from a warm and cosy bed, but then the van is 24 years old !

smug!

 

[Chasnam]

We have had our old dead webasto replace with a whale and the installer asked where to put the controller we said on the wardrobe next to the bed problem solved

 

[DavidCh]

I still cant help feeling that it must be possible to have a simple on/off contact. Unfortunately without a circuit diagram I have no idea how to achieve it.

 

[DavidCh]

OK

I think I have found something. This circuit diagram implies that I should be able to switch the violet and black wires (which appear to be in parallel which will stop and start the unit?

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[chrisgla]

OK

I think I have found something. This circuit diagram implies that I should be able to switch the violet and black wires (which appear to be in parallel which will stop and start the unit?

View attachment 711903

This is interesting. If that's the case I might try one of these:-

Shelly Plus 1 | Shelly Store UK | Smart Home Automation

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shellystore.co.uk

Isolated contacts, WiFi and Bluetooth.
Please let me know if you try it yourself or find more out- too much on at moment to sense check the wiring.
I have those Shelly switches at home, work really well and dry contact is the right one for the job- as long as the two wires are correct!

 

[chrisgla]

I had a quick Google and from an old post on a forum this seems credible. Leave the heating set on as normal and use the Shelly to interrupt the V/Bk wires.I'll try when I get a chance, want to have a final check with multimeter before I fit. I want for remote control, but Shelly will work locally from it's inbuilt web page control if you want. It looks like the worst that could happen is an error code and having to rejoin the wires directly.

 

[Lenny HB]

Ha!! Completely agree! If only motorhome designers USED motorhomes they would add the heater switches next to the bed pronto!! I think I agree with the 'move the control and fill the hole in' comment. Best of luck.

The last caravan we had, a Hobby had the switch for the hot watter beside the bed. No it wasn't clever design, hot water boiler was under the bed so probably to save on cable & labour.

 

[DavidCh]

I had a quick Google and from an old post on a forum this seems credible. Leave the heating set on as normal and use the Shelly to interrupt the V/Bk wires.I'll try when I get a chance, want to have a final check with multimeter before I fit. I want for remote control, but Shelly will work locally from it's inbuilt web page control if you want. It looks like the worst that could happen is an error code and having to rejoin the wires directly.

I have been working up to putting a raspberry pi in with home assistant, the Shelley would connect nicely to that

 

[B-well]

I have trumatic C C603E boiler where as the temp control dial is missing on the rear it has 10 pin connector
i have purchased a new temp control switch but noticed this has a 6 pin telephone type connector on the back. Am i able to re configure the old wiring to fit the new switch ie splice/join wires together to enable switch to function. i have tried truma and leisurespares but part unobtainable.

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[L&J]

I had a quick Google and from an old post on a forum this seems credible. Leave the heating set on as normal and use the Shelly to interrupt the V/Bk wires.I'll try when I get a chance, want to have a final check with multimeter before I fit. I want for remote control, but Shelly will work locally from it's inbuilt web page control if you want. It looks like the worst that could happen is an error code and having to rejoin the wires directly.

Just come across this and wondered if anyone had done the mod - interrupting the V/Bk wires? The problem is that this will turn everything off, heating and hot water which is probably not ideal. I havent looked to see what is involved (I imaging a bit of circuit board trace cutting and soldering) but wouldnt a better way be to interrupt the signal going to pin 4? That way its just the heating that gets turned off and the hot water is maintained.