Thule Omnistep troubleshooting

Have a look at this video here -



It shows the wires going into the step switch (at around the 10 minute mark). The wires going to the step motor are orange and purple in this model (from memory this is the same as my step, rather than red and black as in the Thule manual previously referred to). Pull the purple and orange wires off the switch terminals and apply 12v to them and the step will retract / extend depending on the polarity supplied. There is no need to dismantle the step casing to get to the wires to test it independently. Just apply power to the orange and purple cables behind the switch.

That’s really helpful, thanks. Two of the 4 wires to the step are indeed orange and purple but they go to the relay that I can’t quite get to not direct to the switch and until I manage to remove the black Ducato trim underneath the passenger seat belt I can’t see which wire goes where on the relay or get to the relay to put power to the orange or purple wire.
 
That’s really helpful, thanks. Two of the 4 wires to the step are indeed orange and purple but they go to the relay that I can’t quite get to not direct to the switch and until I manage to remove the black Ducato trim underneath the passenger seat belt I can’t see which wire goes where on the relay or get to the relay to put power to the orange or purple wire.
And of course there isn’t enough slack in the wiring to manoeuvre the relay out via the switch hole.
 
Another update:
Managed to get the Ducato trim out of the way so I can get to the switch, the relay and the resistor (when I couldn't see it all properly before I thought the resistor might be a sound emitter).
Definitely 4 wires come up from the step: Orange Purple Grey Brown. Couldn't get anything to happen touching a new PP9 9V battery to the orange and purple leads. Thule instructions I found online for when first installing the step say it has to be opened first prior to installation and this is done by applying 12v positive to the purple wire and 12v negative to the orange wire (which confirms what Barti said).

Made a couple of test leads with male spades on one end and clips on the other and connected the LB positive to purple and the LB negative to orange. This bypasses the switch, relay, resistor and fuse. Still nothing from the step. Swapped the polarity of the test leads and still no sign of life from the step. Checked the voltage across the test leads before and after and it was 13.8v.

When I used the test leads all the other connections were left connected to the switch/relay/resistor, I don't know if that would make a difference?

If the weather is OK tomorrow I'll try again with the test leads to the orange/purple wires but this time with the grey and brown wires disconnected and in fact with everything disconnected as much as I can after I've sketched the connections out first.

I still want to get to the ends of the orange and purple wires where they terminate inside the step just to put 12v across them, in case there is a break in the wires or a loose connection inside the step.

I would happily use it as a manual step if I could get the bloody thing to open.
 
Update: first, thanks for all the responses.

What I thought was an electrical plug at the back of the step is just a snap-in elbow shroud to keep inside the step casing clean. I've now dropped the step from underneath the van but can't disconnect the cables as I don't know how to get inside the case to progress further. The installation manual doesn't cover how to get inside the case to disconnect the 4 cables so I can get the step on a bench to test. I'm reluctant to start removing screws in case I make things worse.
If anyone knows which screws to remove or what to do to enable access to the inside of the case please let me know.
Hi Terry I am also having problems with my thule step and this thread has been very useful in increasing my knowledge but not solved yet but I will persevere using the process of elimination.
The case is easy to take apart at the back and front there are 8 rather big self tapper screws that hold the runner supporte to the back and front frames ,I used an impact driver with a big pozi screw head and the undid quite easily you may only want to remove the rear ones first as that will give you access to the electrical connections.
Good luck
Cjasnam
 
Hi Terry I am also having problems with my thule step and this thread has been very useful in increasing my knowledge but not solved yet but I will persevere using the process of elimination.
The case is easy to take apart at the back and front there are 8 rather big self tapper screws that hold the runner supporte to the back and front frames ,I used an impact driver with a big pozi screw head and the undid quite easily you may only want to remove the rear ones first as that will give you access to the electrical connections.
Good luck
Cjasnam
Many thanks

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I think that you will find when you get the cover off that the power wires have a plug and socket connection. The limit signal wires were hard wired into the motor housing.
At least that's how mine were.
 
I think that you will find when you get the cover off that the power wires have a plug and socket connection. The limit signal wires were hard wired into the motor housing.
At least that's how mine were.
thanks.
 
And the culprit is - the motor ( of course it couldn’t be as cheap or easy to fix as a switch or relay).

With the step disassembled I put a test voltage down the orange and purple pair and that was ok as was testing the resistance so happy those wires are fine.

Reconnected the orange and purple to the switch and relay and pressed the step switch in/out and the meter showed 0 volts with the switch at rest and then LB voltage ( positive and negative readings ) when pressing the switch, so I was satisfied that the van wiring is fine.

Tried applying the PP9 and LB supply to the motor terminals and nothing happened apart from a very faint click from the motor.

Pressing the limit switch made no difference.

Disconnected the swing arms to make it a manual step.

Removed the motor from the swing arms and they move freely.

Tested the motor again with just the gearbox attached that turns the square shaft and same faint click.

Put it back together and back onto the van and we’ll use it as a manual step while I look into buying the motor or motor and arms or the back section of the step with the motor and arms already mounted or a whole new step.

The clip that was inside the step to hold the step closed when the arms are disconnected seems like it’ll fall off on the first corner but I’ll look at that again tomorrow when I check again all bolts are tight etc.

Many thanks to everyone who replied, your feedback was very helpful.
 
The step motor is apparently not as expensive as it first appears from the Thule prices, in that it is identical to a Bosch headlight adjustment motor. Straight swap apparently. Google should give you the relevant Bosch part number.
 
I think that you will find when you get the cover off that the power wires have a plug and socket connection. The limit signal wires were hard wired into the motor housing.
At least that's how mine were.
On mine the limit switch wires are hard wired into the limit switch itself, thanks
 
Think it's the same motor that's used for nissan xtrail windows but don't take my word for it..

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I'm waiting on a couple of places to get back to see if I can order the matching motor but many of those for sale look to have the same motor and a few have a very similar looking gearbox to drive a square shaft.
Can I buy one that looks similar and attach the motor end to the gearbox from my step?
 
Update:
Part number on my step motor is 0390201949 - my step is a Thule V18 slide out step
Part number for the headlight levelling motor people on here kindly pointed me to is 0390203266

I compared the two motors on https://www.bosch-ibusiness.com/products/product-categories/dc-motors/ahc2-0390201949/ and https://www.bosch-ibusiness.com/products/product-categories/dc-motors/ahc2-0390203266/

The two motors are identical in all respects other than the headlight motor rotates fractionally slower, is slightly more powerful with associated slightly higher power consumption. Full details are in the links above.

Also of relevance is that the part 0390203266 is readily available from car parts outlets as a new part, prices ranging from £35 to £85 and is also sold as a replacement motor for Thule steps. The part 0390201949 isn't available at all new that I've found so far other than as part of a Thule step and at silly money.

I've ordered one for £35, I'll post a final update after fitting sometime next week. If it is Ok I'll likely order another as a spare while they are currently readily available cheaply.

For info, the inside of the step apart from a little dust at the front, was remarkably clean and the motor and arms looked as new and no corrosion on the terminals. It's just a shame that despite Thule boasting about using a quality Bosch motor it has failed after only 4 and half years of light use.
 
Final update:

Motor arrived promptly in a Bosch box. Tested it running both ways with a PP9 battery, was fine. Had to wait a while for a break in the weather to fit it. Found when refitting the gearboxes/arms to the step case that the "bearings" on the bottom of the gearboxes just sit in the bottom case of the step and one of them was seized solid (likely why Thule sell it as an assembly). No sign of any lubrication or nylon for the shafts to turn in so it is bound to fail given that its under the van, even with front mudflaps fitted. Freed it off and put fresh grease in the gearboxes and dry PTFE spray on the "bearings". All fine now, step seems quieter and can't tell any difference in how fast it opens and closes. Thanks again for the very useful help on the forum.
 

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