The Big Lorry to Camper Conversion

HandyAndy said:
REWIND REWIND....
IGNORE MY POST ABOVE.

Only just realised that 230ah is PER AGM I fail at reading...

Scrap my calculations (or double the AGM values and redo the figures).. If someone else wants to re write my post correctly and post it below, be my guest I'm not going through it again :D :D
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Oh Please!, I put informative ? :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Are you using spring mounts on all the mounts? I thought they only need to be on one set to prevent torsional stress from the chassis breaking the bolts?
 
The mounts behind the rear axle (2 each side) are bolted with no spring. The rest have springs, with bolted plates to stop sideways movement. Never going to go off road, it's a lorry ?. Will help remove stiffness, need to put some bushes between the brackets aswell.
 
MANGOFORTH said:
The mounts behind the rear axle (2 each side) are bolted with no spring. The rest have springs, with bolted plates to stop sideways movement. Never going to go off road, it's a lorry ?. Will help remove stiffness, need to put some bushes between the brackets aswell.
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trucks work great off road. amazing where they can and do get.
up mountains through rivers across the deserts .
you have alot of adventure in front of you to have.

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only when all four wheels are driven, otherwise they are shite unless you have a full load on and a decent weight over the rear end :D
 
HandyAndy said:
only when all four wheels are driven, otherwise they are shite unless you have a full load on and a decent weight over the rear end :D
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i can only know where me and friends have got to over the years . mind mine is not anygood off road without the trailer behind as yes it puts load on the driving wheels.
i know we have had lots of fun on real bumpy off road tracks and have gone miles into desert land , yes you do get caught out sometimes but if you travel in a small group the others give a tow and off we go.
one of my mates had a glasgow ex service bus it had real good retirement in many far away places . mind was a little short of ground clearances at times.
 
MANGOFORTH said:
The mounts behind the rear axle (2 each side) are bolted with no spring. The rest have springs, with bolted plates to stop sideways movement. Never going to go off road, it's a lorry ?. Will help remove stiffness, need to put some bushes between the brackets aswell.
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Saw a video on youtube after researching this... A lorry went up a kerb with a camera (gopro) underneath. The torsion on the chassis was surprising... So not just needed for off road use.
Nice to see you fitting them though. It was a big discussion on one of the FB groups and someone hadn't fitted them and it caused problems. Hence my question.
 
The body that was on the truck was bolted straight onto the chassis. But it was made to allow movement, like most lorry body's. Its only because the body I've made is so rigid!! I've heard story's of welds cracking ect if not used ?...

I saw a video of another MAN l2000 8.163 being crash tested. The movement in the body is very surprising!

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Got this going on
1571507895694.jpg
 
P. S. There will be another layer of celotex over the top removing any thermal bridging.

And if anyone builds something like this... Looking at you HandyAndy DON'T USE BOX biggest regret of the build. Feel stupid and majorly annoyed with myself for a oversight.... Never mind
 
soon be toasty ??
MANGOFORTH said:
P. S. There will be another layer of celotex over the top removing any thermal bridging.

And if anyone builds something like this... Looking at you HandyAndy DON'T USE BOX biggest regret of the build. Feel stupid and majorly annoyed with myself for a oversight.... Never mind
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did I not talk about thermal bridging at the beginning. I think I asked you if you were filling the box with expanding foam or anything.

and i nearly posted earlier to ask if you were putting a second layer over that one but thought i'd leave it having mentioned it already ?

i've been watching how they build caravans and other off road type hab modules to get a better idea and I'm already thinking it would be better just making it out of the sandwich panels (alutech eg) but worried the roof would not take the weight of what I want to do up there. ? so may have to build corner strengthening, probably out of angle though, not box?
 
HandyAndy said:
soon be toasty ??

did I not talk about thermal bridging at the beginning. I think I asked you if you were filling the box with expanding foam or anything.

and i nearly posted earlier to ask if you were putting a second layer over that one but thought i'd leave it having mentioned it already ?

i've been watching how they build caravans and other off road type hab modules to get a better idea and I'm already thinking it would be better just making it out of the sandwich panels (alutech eg) but worried the roof would not take the weight of what I want to do up there. ? so may have to build corner strengthening, probably out of angle though, not box?
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completely agree about thermal bridging. But afaik alutech wouldn't help as that is an extruded jointing system not to be confused with the aluminium foam sandwich as used on some of the better motorhomes
 
HandyAndy said:
soon be toasty ??

did I not talk about thermal bridging at the beginning. I think I asked you if you were filling the box with expanding foam or anything.

and i nearly posted earlier to ask if you were putting a second layer over that one but thought i'd leave it having mentioned it already ?

i've been watching how they build caravans and other off road type hab modules to get a better idea and I'm already thinking it would be better just making it out of the sandwich panels (alutech eg) but worried the roof would not take the weight of what I want to do up there. ? so may have to build corner strengthening, probably out of angle though, not box?
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The body on my duro is built from an aluminium skinned ply and foam sandwich 40mm thick , no frame , just cappings outside and 30x30mm ali angle inside , and its all pop riveted . There was a traveling gantry crane inside that was just pop riveted to roof that was swl of 150kg . You can walk about on roof two of us have been on it at same time . and it doesn't move at all 7ft wide and 14foot long . No thermal bridges .
 
My plan was to foam fill the box to stop thermal bridging. But it doesn't, cold just travels around the metal obviously ?‍♂️

Also filling box with insulation is a big no no. They spec against it on steel frame houses as it always has cavities, condensates and rots.

I'd already started long before I'd joined here, so was too late anyways ?

I've squirted waxoyl in the frame (lots) and will just go over everything with more celotex. That will cover timber supports for cupboards ect which also act as a bridge.

I went into this blind with no advise or help. If I had a time machine I would go back and change it. But I don't. I've got a big metal truck so that'll have to do?
 
tacr2man said:
The body on my duro is built from an aluminium skinned ply and foam sandwich 40mm thick , no frame , just cappings outside and 30x30mm ali angle inside , and its all pop riveted . There was a traveling gantry crane inside that was just pop riveted to roof that was swl of 150kg . You can walk about on roof two of us have been on it at same time . and it doesn't move at all 7ft wide and 14foot long . No thermal bridges .
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How do you attach cupboards ect to the wall? If only 40mm thick walls with nothing inside?

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You could put it up for sale when finished, at a vastly inflated price and if anyone bites then it could fund another one built better and redesigned after living in this one for a while and working out what doesn't work.
You're young, plenty of time to "do it all again".
 
MANGOFORTH said:
How do you attach cupboards ect to the wall? If only 40mm thick walls with nothing inside?
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There is an ali skin and you use pop rivets for the carrying brackets . It all works by spreading load over a large area . Its a bit difficult to explain , the downside is loads of pop rivets , to drill and fit . Its like the load restrainer strips in reefer trucks , loads of self tapping screws spread the load into the grp skin .
 
MANGOFORTH said:
What do you think the company that made your motorhome did?
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Well, they did the following:
  • A lightweight construction and insulation that no amateur can match, certainly not what you built with its massive thermal bridges all over, already enough for it for not warranting a 'vastly inflated price' as HandyAndy put it
  • It offers a 2 years warranty on the whole vehicle
  • It compensates a reseller who allowed me to visit several models, compare, change my mind, etc...
  • It gets legal registration of the vehicle, having it tested against security norms
Now, I do admire what you've done and follow your thread with great interest. I am not at all capable of building such a thing.

But finding out some choices were not optimum and trying to get out of it by selling it at a 'vastly inflated price' does not put you on a higher moral ground than companies and in my opinion would not be that easy to do. There is a very long way between a great self-built van and a finished product worth a high price.

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everything is for sale at the right price and I'm sure Mango wouldn't be letting this go without the sale of it to be able to fund the next one, other wise there is no point in doing so.
So yes, you put a price on it that where you don't really want to sell it but if someone comes along then it's a no brainer to let it go.
 
tacr2man said:
Have a look on here at 4.00 mins
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Inertia is a bitch...

That is why when I do self builds I put things like the water tank and batteries hard up against the bulk head. I learnt a lot on that CPC course.

Once a load starts moving, you can't stop it.
 
MANGOFORTH said:
My plan was to foam fill the box to stop thermal bridging.
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To stop thermal bridging in my build I used wood shims glued to the structural members, spray foamed in between then lined.

The only placed I had problems was where I used rigid foam boards but no vapour barrier which meant condensation formed. I fully believe this is why my current vehicle is now beyond economical repair due to rust.

If you are not using spray foam then I strongly recommend a good quality vapour barrier and ensure it is well taped up.

For the floor I would also recommend fibre glassing it to protect it from spills, leaks and other moisture issues.
 
Stephane Bosman said:
Well, they did the following:
  • A lightweight construction and insulation that no amateur can match, certainly not what you built with its massive thermal bridges all over, already enough for it for not warranting a 'vastly inflated price' as HandyAndy put it
  • It offers a 2 years warranty on the whole vehicle
  • It compensates a reseller who allowed me to visit several models, compare, change my mind, etc...
  • It gets legal registration of the vehicle, having it tested against security norms
Now, I do admire what you've done and follow your thread with great interest. I am not at all capable of building such a thing.

But finding out some choices were not optimum and trying to get out of it by selling it at a 'vastly inflated price' does not put you on a higher moral ground than companies and in my opinion would not be that easy to do. There is a very long way between a great self-built van and a finished product worth a high price.
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1. There won't be any thermal bridges? I said I'm going to fly a full sheet over the top of everything. The thinnest part of insulation will be 30mm celotex which is equivalent to 60mm fiber insulation.

2. A 2year warranty is rubbish, I would expect longer on a new vehicle, and if it needed warranty work within two years well same again.

3. I never said I would sell it. (If I sold this for a profit its still cheaper than a 10 year old swift)

4. What do you mean tested against security norms?

5. Well established companies cut corners all the time. VW emmisons scandal, grenfel Tower, Boeing sensor scandal to name a few.

But thanks I think ???
 
Gromett said:
To stop thermal bridging in my build I used wood shims glued to the structural members, spray foamed in between then lined.

The only placed I had problems was where I used rigid foam boards but no vapour barrier which meant condensation formed. I fully believe this is why my current vehicle is now beyond economical repair due to rust.

If you are not using spray foam then I strongly recommend a good quality vapour barrier and ensure it is well taped up.

For the floor I would also recommend fibre glassing it to protect it from spills, leaks and other moisture issues.
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Yeah gaps are the issue, but I've got flat surfaces so glueing the insulation to the ally is doable, I've done a test peice and it's alot stronger than I was hoping for ? but yeah like I said, there won't be any bridges at all now. Photos when I've got there will hopefully convince.

I saw a video online and they put the insulation on the floor, then ply, then layed a watertight lino down. A bit long round the edges so any spillages will be caught without seeping below!!

I've been on the phone to building inspectors regarding steel frame buildings.
That's where I got the new information regarding spray foam inside box section. Massive no no, he also advised not to even screw the ply into the box through the insulation.
Just hide all fixings between the frame, put another layer of celotex over the top. Internally I've got 2.4m to play with in width.... Im willing to take the hit

When you say fiberglass do you mean a layer of fiberglass resin on the floor?

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