Switchover device advise please

JaG

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I have fitted a 2000w Renogy Inverter and run one cable direct to the side of the microwave. The switch behind is not easily accessible so I am going to put in a crossover switch (I think, unless otherwise advised).
The switch I am looking for is where the microwave wires go in the bottom, live wire from inverter and live wire from ring main. I want the switch to be live on one side from the ring main then when on inverter, switched over to live on the other side. Hope I have explained it right.
Can someone point me to a link of where to buy what I need. I have tried the electrical shops and nobody has anything like that. Thanks in advance.
 
Are you just wanting the microwave and inverter linked? Separate to the rest of your MH?
My inverter - ran a cable from inverter to where microwave lives and put a household 3 pin 240v socket there. My inverter has a remote on/off. So when we need it we turn it on and the same at the microwave switch which is overkill really as the socket is dead without inverter turned on.
 
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I just fitted a double pole changeover switch at the fuse box. That way you can run anything in the van off it, would be handy for you as it's a big inverter
20210325_083424.webp
 
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Put 240v changeover switch into Amazon,

Plenty of choices..

Are you sure the Renogy doesn’t have pass through? Mine does.

Tony
 
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Put 240v changeover switch into Amazon,

Plenty of choices..

Are you sure the Renogy doesn’t have pass through? Mine does.

Tony
The vast majority of things on amazon now are cheap chinesium dropshipped at a premium price. Not necessarily bad for a lot of things but something of this nature really needs to be from a reputable brand/supplier.

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Heschen branded universal rotary selector:

Get the bigger box, the standard ones are tight. They'll come with crimps.

The 2kw Renogy should have UPS function as mentioned, kettle lead in the back and then plug microwave into the inverter (or wire a plug onto the end of the cable feeding the socket)?
 
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Is this possible?
1. Install a remote on/off switch for the inverter.
2. Disconnect all 230V sockets from onboard consumer unit.
3. Connect all 230V sockets (via fuses) to inverter.
When you need any 230V sockets live, just turn on the inverter.
When on hook up, let the mains charger charge your battery, but still use inverter for 230V appliances.
 
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Is this possible?
1. Install a remote on/off switch for the inverter.
2. Disconnect all 230V sockets from onboard consumer unit.
3. Connect all 230V sockets (via fuses) to inverter.
When you need any 230V sockets live, just turn on the inverter.
When on hook up, let the mains charger charge your battery, but still use inverter for 230V appliances.
The Renogy inverters have a bypass function. I left 2 sockets (1 for charger, 1 for UPS C13 lead) fed direct from the CU, the rest are now wired off the inverter by way of a plug and some new 3 core to the next socket in the radial. Mine wasn't a ring and only 10a so quite simple. A larger ring would need more thought.

You could do what you've suggested but if you had a long draw you'd have to make sure heat was dealt with properly, you also have to factor the loss of efficiency by powering through the inverter, and it might have a much shorter lifespan being asked to invert constantly.

Without a UPS function (bypass), I would rather do as OP asked and get a selector switch.
 
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Heschen branded universal rotary selector:

Get the bigger box, the standard ones are tight. They'll come with crimps.
It's probably a silly question, but I got one of these and there's no wiring diagram in the box, and looking online I can't see anything suitable. Am I just supposed to know? Any ideas please?
Thank you..
 
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It's probably a silly question, but I got one of these and there's no wiring diagram in the box, and looking online I can't see anything suitable. Am I just supposed to know? Any ideas please?
Thank you..
It will be quite simple, if it's double pole there will be 6 terminals inside. Single pole will be 3 terminals.

They may be marked common or C and 1 and 2. You can confirm it with a multimeter set to beepy mode.

Edit ; I see it's 3 phase 12 terminals... A bit over the top isn't it? 🤔 Mine is double pole and switches live and neutral as my diagram above

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It's probably a silly question, but I got one of these and there's no wiring diagram in the box, and looking online I can't see anything suitable. Am I just supposed to know? Any ideas please?
Thank you..
You need to connect the 3 terminals on the left together top to bottom
Then supply in top right will be selector 1
Supply in bottom right will be selector 2

Notes I made when I was working it out with multimeter:
"1 links top 2
2 links bottom 2
Left top and bottom never connect

Supply from mains into top right
Supply from inverter into bottom right
Load out bottom left, link to top left"

You could join the 2 load side cables outside in a wago or similar but I just looped cables.
 
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It will be quite simple, if it's double pole there will be 6 terminals inside. Single pole will be 3 terminals.

They may be marked common or C and 1 and 2. You can confirm it with a multimeter set to beepy mode.

Edit ; I see it's 3 phase 12 terminals... A bit over the top isn't it? 🤔 Mine is double pole and switches live and neutral as my diagram above
Ah... Thank you... that'll explain it then.... three phase.... didnt spot that, doh !!!!
 
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You need to connect the 3 terminals on the left together top to bottom
Then supply in top right will be selector 1
Supply in bottom right will be selector 2

Notes I made when I was working it out with multimeter:
"1 links top 2
2 links bottom 2
Left top and bottom never connect

Supply from mains into top right
Supply from inverter into bottom right
Load out bottom left, link to top left"

You could join the 2 load side cables outside in a wago or similar but I just looped cables.
Thank you... I'll take look....
 
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Are you just wanting the microwave and inverter linked? Separate to the rest of your MH?
My inverter - ran a cable from inverter to where microwave lives and put a household 3 pin 240v socket there. My inverter has a remote on/off. So when we need it we turn it on and the same at the microwave switch which is overkill really as the socket is dead without inverter turned on.
Yes, but the mains socket is concealed behind the microwave, hence the changeover switch outside the area.

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Heschen branded universal rotary selector:

Get the bigger box, the standard ones are tight. They'll come with crimps.

The 2kw Renogy should have UPS function as mentioned, kettle lead in the back and then plug microwave into the inverter (or wire a plug onto the end of the cable feeding the socket)?
Thank you. That is very helpful.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Upvote 0
Heschen branded universal rotary selector:

Get the bigger box, the standard ones are tight. They'll come with crimps.

The 2kw Renogy should have UPS function as mentioned, kettle lead in the back and then plug microwave into the inverter (or wire a plug onto the end of the cable feeding the socket)?
Thank you for the link.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Upvote 0
The Renogy inverters have a bypass function. I left 2 sockets (1 for charger, 1 for UPS C13 lead) fed direct from the CU, the rest are now wired off the inverter by way of a plug and some new 3 core to the next socket in the radial. Mine wasn't a ring and only 10a so quite simple. A larger ring would need more thought.

You could do what you've suggested but if you had a long draw you'd have to make sure heat was dealt with properly, you also have to factor the loss of efficiency by powering through the inverter, and it might have a much shorter lifespan being asked to invert constantly.

Without a UPS function (bypass), I would rather do as OP asked and get a selector switch.
Thank you.
 
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You need to connect the 3 terminals on the left together top to bottom
Then supply in top right will be selector 1
Supply in bottom right will be selector 2

Notes I made when I was working it out with multimeter:
"1 links top 2
2 links bottom 2
Left top and bottom never connect

Supply from mains into top right
Supply from inverter into bottom right
Load out bottom left, link to top left"

You could join the 2 load side cables outside in a wago or similar but I just looped cables.
Very informative. I have this one with no instructions and local electronics said it was duff. Obviously not. Thanks

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It's probably a silly question, but I got one of these and there's no wiring diagram in the box, and looking online I can't see anything suitable. Am I just supposed to know? Any ideas please?
Not a silly question at all. There are 12 terminals. For this application, which is switching live and neutral between two sources, only the first 8 are required. Ignore terminals 9 to 12.
In position 0, all terminals are disconnected from each other.
In position 1, terminals 1 & 2 are connected together, and 5 & 6 are connected together.
In position 2, terminals 3 & 4 are connected together, and 7 & 8 are connected together.

Connect MW live to 1, MW neutral to 5. Connect EHU live to 2, and EHU neutral to 6.

Connect MW live to 3, by linking terminals 1 and 3. Connect MW neutral to 7, by linking terminals 5 and 7. Connect INV live to 4, and INV neutral to 8.

One advantage of this type of switch over a simple changeover is that there is a definite break between the two 240V supplies, and there is no chance of them touching each other, even for fraction of a second
 
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Not a silly question at all. There are 12 terminals. For this application, which is switching live and neutral between two sources, only the first 8 are required. Ignore terminals 9 to 12.
In position 0, all terminals are disconnected from each other.
In position 1, terminals 1 & 2 are connected together, and 5 & 6 are connected together.
In position 2, terminals 3 & 4 are connected together, and 7 & 8 are connected together.

Connect MW live to 1, MW neutral to 5. Connect EHU live to 2, and EHU neutral to 6.

Connect MW live to 3, by linking terminals 1 and 3. Connect MW neutral to 7, by linking terminals 5 and 7. Connect INV live to 4, and INV neutral to 8.

One advantage of this type of switch over a simple changeover is that there is a definite break between the two 240V supplies, and there is no chance of them touching each other, even for fraction of a second
That is a fabulous easy to follow instruction.
Thank you all for your inputs.
 
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There is a diagram for the switch in one of the pictures in that Amazon link in herald_400rl 's post #6. There's no explanation though.

HeschenSwitchDiagram.webp

The diagram shows that in position 0, none of the contact pairs are connected.
In Position 1, the pairs 1-2, 5-6 and 9-10 are connected together, but pairs 3-4, 7-8 and 11-12 are not.
In Position 2, the pairs 3-4, 7-8 and 11-12 are connected together, but pairs 1-2, 5-6 and 9-10 are not.

You can configure it as a changeover switch, as I described in my post #21 above.
 
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I used one of these, they come with full wiring instructions

 
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If your Renogy inverter has a mains input (socket for kettle style lead) then it has the pass through function. You can then connect incoming mains from the EHU to this socket and when this is live it will automatically turn off the inverter function and pass the EHU mains to the inverter's output socket(s).

In this case you need to provide a mains circuit going just to sockets for mains powered appliances and feed that from an output socket on the inverter, making sure that it does not feed things like battery chargers or aircon, which should be on a separate mains circuit fed directly from the EHU.
 
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On a related matter I'm looking for advice on; I want to connect a Phoenix/Multi Plus 2 (Inverter function only) to a VE Inverter remote switch (simple 2 pole), to save having switch it on using the rocker switch on the unit which is under the bed & so a bit of a pain to access. I've not been able to find any relevant info/diagrams for the connections from the Remote port (2 terminals with the standard supplied jumper cable between both), so has anyone done this or knows how to once the jumper is removed, please? TIA.
 
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On a related matter I'm looking for advice on; I want to connect a Phoenix/Multi Plus 2 (Inverter function only) to a VE Inverter remote switch (simple 2 pole), to save having switch it on using the rocker switch on the unit which is under the bed & so a bit of a pain to access. I've not been able to find any relevant info/diagrams for the connections from the Remote port (2 terminals with the standard supplied jumper cable between both), so has anyone done this or knows how to once the jumper is removed, please? TIA.
I'm about to do the same - my thinking is the jumper is giving continuity in whichever position the inverter is set to, and once removed the switch will just give power or cut power to that position. I'm probably going to fit mine tomorrow so should know what it's about once I've done it.
 
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