Which B2B have you got?Sorry Lenny I don't know what that means
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Which B2B have you got?Sorry Lenny I don't know what that means
How are you turning on the B2B?Sorry Lenny I don't know what that means
Why do they seem odd? the B2B is putting out 47 amps, the shunt is telling you that 36 amps are going into the battery, the difference is being consumed by something else, most likely the fridge I would think? Depending on how your system is wired.I dont really know what I'm looking at but these photos seam odd
Assuming that your TR is a 30 amp version, if you are not getting close to 30 amps into a partially charged lithium check that the start voltage under engine shut down detection is not set at 14 volts which is the default value, for some reason this throttles the output of the device, change it to 13.25 volts and the delayed start voltage to 13.2 and test it again, you should see a significant increase in charge current.I’m just in the process of changing my victron TR for the XS as I was not getting a very high charge rate from the TR![]()
The solar controller should be connected to the battery before the solar panels are connected to the solar controller if not the solar controller may think it is connected to a 24v battery.Take a look at images 4 + 5 seems high watts or is that ok ?
also while I'm on I have just fitted a Victron solar controller the battery terminals show 22 v and the solar show 13 v with no sun how can that be ?
22v from the panel converted into 13v to charge the battery?Take a look at images 4 + 5 seems high watts or is that ok ?
also while I'm on I have just fitted a Victron solar controller the battery terminals show 22 v and the solar show 13 v with no sun how can that be ?
should I disconnect and start again or is it too late ?The solar controller should be connected to the battery before the solar panels are connected to the solar controller if not the solar controller may think it is connected to a 24v battery.
Images 4+5 show 501 and 659 watts, is that likelyWhy do they seem odd? the B2B is putting out 47 amps, the shunt is telling you that 36 amps are going into the battery, the difference is being consumed by something else, most likely the fridge I would think? Depending on how your system is wired.
I would cover the panels or wait until it's dark, disconnect the positive from the panels to the solar controller or pull the fuse if you've included one, disconnect the positive to the battery from the solar controller reconnect the battery negatives and any other battery connections then reconnect the positive from the battery to the solar controller, then reconnect the positive from the panels to the controller or replace the fuse. You will need to wait until the sun comes up to check if it's working OK, I would expect to see between 18 and 22 volts from the panels and around 13 volts output from the controller but very few amps also you may need to do a firmware update from the app.should I disconnect and start again or is it too late ?
Also I disconnected both negatives from the batteries and still got a reading of 22v which I don't understand.
As explained in post #69 volts x amps = watts so yes the wattage looks correct.Images 4+5 show 501 and 659 watts, is that likely
So it seems that I have been panicking over nothing ?
Without seeing before and after figures and seeing what your setting are it's difficult to say, but certainly if you've left something switched on overnight then some battery charge will have been used and a short trip would return the battery to full again and the charger status to float.Back to the B2B, the other day I went for a short test drive and the reading went up to float however the next morning I started the van and the reading was down to the beginning so went for another short run and it went back to float, does this suggest a drain of some sort ?
Can you post them as jpeg or png files please. Can't make out what's what from those.Still confused with the B2B readings. Yesterday went for a 1 hour run see photo 0941 @ 14.23. then this morning at start up photo 0943 @ 0942 (time) then photo 0944 @10.04,
I assume you have Lithium, your B2B voltages look too high unless you have Super B batteries.Battery settings, not engine shutdown detection.
These are mine.
View attachment 1000537View attachment 1000538
Your B2B looks OK to me.Maybe I havnt run the engine for long enough ?
View attachment 1000489
View attachment 1000499
View attachment 1000500
View attachment 1000501
I have a Fogstar Drift and the voltages are between the recommended settings as per Fogstar's q&a, the voltages i'm using are as a result of some experimentation and work well for me.I assume you have Lithium, your B2B voltages look too high unless you have Super B batteries.
Fogstar recommend 14.2v for charging with Victron equipment (used to be 14.1).I have a Fogstar Drift and the voltages are between the recommended settings as per Fogstar's q&a, the voltages i'm using are as a result of some experimentation and work well for me.
Fogstar's recommendation.
The recommended voltage for charging a lithium leisure battery is between 13.5V - 13.8V Float to 14.2v - 14.4V Bulk.