Stixall or Sikaflex??

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Burstner t700
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Early 2019
Installing solar panel on my Motorhome, don't want to get the drill out for fixing so which one is best or is there no difference?
Most companies are saying Sikaflex but some other forums have mentioned Stixall.


Cheers
 
I've fitted panels to 3 of my vans in the past...always used aluminium angle for the brackets, and always drilled extra holes in the Alu brackets to allow the adhesive sealant (usually stixall) to 'bleed' through these holes to give a bit more fixing.

regards
Allen
 
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I enquired from SIKA about fitting solar panels and skylights.
See their comments in red.
Screenshot_20211003-092257_Chrome.jpg
 
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This is an alternative that I've used with success. It requires a bit of prep in that alloy pads are mechanically attached to the plastic feet, these pads are then bonded metal to metal to the roof cladding. In our case the roof is an alloy sheet which was abraded as detailed by West.

This adhesive does not have the brittleness of conventional epoxies but UV degradation should be considered I believe. The wet sanding with the adhesive is not a messy as it sounds!

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I first started using Sika adhesives about 20 years ago, have fitted over 100 panels since and never lost one.
I've also had the task of removing panel brackets to fit new panels when the efficiency of the first panel gets too low. Once you have removed a panel bracket either aluminium or ABS you will come to appreciate, trust and respect the ability of these adhesives to do the job they are created to do.

As for spacing, to allow the correct thickness of adhesive, Sika markets a double sided tape "Sikatape", similar to glazing tape but the adhesive is much more aggressive, meaning you don't get a second chance when placing the brackets. Only problem is that it comes in long rolls enough to fit about ten panels, but on the up side it has a good shelf life, (eight years and counting) much better that either the activator or the adhesive.

It is also advisable to fit the spoiler bracket, the full length of the leading and trailing edges of the panel and I fit a 3mm aluminium skirt, laterally to block off airflow access to the underside of the sides of the panel. This reduces wind pressure to virtually zero, making the fixing even more secure. It also reduces the buildup of grime under the panel, which normally requires the removal of the panel annually to clean the van roof, otherwise filthy grimy water makes a mess of the cleaned roof.

I've been a motorhomer for over 40 years, worked on many, fitting after sales accessories, subscribed to a number of forums and write for Warner's Publications. In that time I've never heard of a panel coming loose. I'm not saying none have, but I would have thought it would be a very hot topic, on these forums, if it was a regular occurrence.

It's also worth noting that every dealership I've worked with uses and recommends adhesive only. Prep well, use the correct adhesive for the job and you will be OK.

However I do empathise with those who would prefer to use mechanical means as well to fit their panels (belt and braces never hurts)

I just need new batteries after five years of heavy use and toying with the idea of Lithium

Ken
 
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I have a little experience of using Sika to secure Solar panels - I have fitted two, so do not claim to be an expert in any way.

I am aware that there are numerous products that are probably suitable for fitting solar panels, but this is my experience:

I fitted the first one two years ago, using Sika 512, following the recommendations for abrading, cleaning, applying Activator 205, and ensuring at least 3mm of adhesive.

Before fitting the second one, I contacted Sika Technical Dept.

After questioning whether my MH roof was "plastic", saying he had only come across metal ones, (!) he recommended Sika 552, which I had not come across.

His reasoning was that it had a better Tensile Strength - 3 N/mm² compared with 1.8 N/mm² for 512, but also that the surfaces to be bonded did not need to be as stringently cleaned/primed.

Also - Sikaflex®-552 is suitable for structural joints that will be subjected to dynamic stresses.

However, he confused me even more by finishing the conversation saying that despite what he had said, if I had used Sika 512 before, and the panel was still on, then if was probably fine to use it again!!!!

I compiled the attached comparisons of Sikas 512, 552 and 291i to assist in my decisision.

I was swayed by the fact that Sika 552 is the only one described as an Assembly Adhesive, rather than a Sealant/Adhesive, and that it has increased Tensile Strength.

My panels have now been fitted for 5 and 3 years respectively, and I check them regularly to see if there is any sign of weakness in the bonds.

I have also attached the Data Sheets for each product.

I hope this helps!
 

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Been using this for years available from Screwfix and a fraction of the cost of sika.
Compare the data sheets.
 
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I may as well add my twopenny worth 😉
I have been using Puraflex 40 for years to stick anything to anything 👍without problem.
If you need something with instant grip then Siroflex (not Sikaflex) mighty grip and grab 👍 don't expect to move it once you press it on 😁Both less than half price (around £5 a tube) of Sikaflex and equally as good if not better 👍
 
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I have said this before regarding the same question.
Correct preparation of all surfaces is critical, most if not all of these "Urethanes" (glue/bond) require a cleaner and or a primer.
Vehicle glass (windscreens and fixed windows are fitted using "Urethane") is fitted with Urethane and if all correct procedures are followed the bond cannot be broken during normal vehicle use.
So you can use it without fixings but the correct cleaners and primers must be used.

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My advice would be to ask those who do this for a living, there are so many variants of do’s and don’t that confuse the hell out of everyone
 
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I personally have used puraflex 40 to mount Aluminium brackets to roof then machine screws into rivnuts. If using stainless steel in al use a media to electricaly isolate possible galvanic action. Dont forget to clean roof and preparation as advised on data sheet.
Following thread is a round up of options used by Fum members.


 
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My advice would be to ask those who do this for a living, there are so many variants of do’s and don’t that confuse the hell out of everyone
You have obviously never been in a MH manufacturers 🙂😳
Most people who work there don't give much of a toss on how it's put together 😁
 
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