Sterling 60A B2B vs Victron Orion 50A B2B.

[AdrianChen]

It's Type 19 at 90Ah and only 2 x years old at most Adrian. Every time I'm in the side locker where all the CBE electrics are, the BM is always showing green, (charged), rather than red, (charging). I had the CBE CSB2 on the Hymer, ( a great little charging unit), but this one on the Flair is the Vanbitz BM.

Cheers,

Jock.

Ah - OK, well our previous van was brand new, so the battery in theory was too - must have been stored badly at the dealer or something.

Our (Carthago) CBE DS470 fuse box system paralleled the cab and hab batteries when the main panel was on and voltage was above 13.5v. It gave up to 6 amps - I think earlier systems used a separate little box, but ours was integrated), but not when in storage and the panel switched off, so we popped the CSB2 on to cover that time in storage which worked well and the van always started - but I should've checked the battery - it was knackered, and the Merc base vehicle with its telematics etc plus our tracker did seem to use a lot.

If yours is similar, and the batteries are paralleled would that cause the green led to show?

Our current van when in storage, but with the Victron Cerbo, Solar Controllers, Ablemail (like a BM) and mifi turned on uses a steady 0.8amp If I leave set the Ablemail to run permanently, rather than on it's normal programme which reduces the draw to less than 0.5amp, so I guess thats up to 19AH per 24hr, normally compensated for by the solar output.

 

[funflair]

I get you now, ie, not an after fit.



Yes, but TBH, I have only ever seen them when the engine is running and charging is effective. I have never observed the symbol on the panel at any other time.


Thanks Martin. We, (but me especially), are looking forward to experimenting and getting used to them.
Most pans are induction compatible, but a new compatible frying pan and lid are winging their way to us as I type.

The Air Fryer will have to wait for now, as neither of us are convinced yet of the need for one...........nor of the room to store one.

Cheers,

Jock.

I use the induction hob a lot more than the air fryer, I suppose it's OK having it there as an option but yes quite a big lump, also Remoska of course and between that and the air fryer I think we would keep the Remoska.

 

[JockandRita]

If yours is similar, and the batteries are paralleled would that cause the green led to show?

I believe so Adrian, when charging is complete, and red when charging. I never turn the panel off, not even in storage, but rather on standby.

I use the induction hob a lot more than the air fryer, I suppose it's OK having it there as an option but yes quite a big lump, also Remoska of course and between that and the air fryer I think we would keep the Remoska.

Induction and Remoska will be our favoured appliances Martin, with the slow cooker on standby.
This will most likely result in an Original Double Skillet, (the better quality one), becoming available some time soon as it's not compatible with induction.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[funflair]

Induction and Remoska will be our favoured appliances Martin, with the slow cooker on standby.
This will most likely result in an Original Double Skillet, (the better quality one), becoming available some time soon as it's not compatible with induction.

Cheers,

Jock.

If you really wanted it to work you just put a steel plate on top of the induction and use it like a electric hotplate, you knew that already though

 

[Guigsy]

If you really wanted it to work you just put a steel plate on top of the induction and use it like a electric hotplate, you knew that already though

It has to be quite a thick plate. I was serving up and I accidentally left an induction ring on, then placed a stainless steel baking tray of roast veg on it. Within seconds, it was red hot. It's permanently marked the tray.

I also had a cheap wok with a pressed steel plate on the bottom. It wasn't dishwasher safe. So after a couple of years, water must have got behind the plate. Made some interesting noises while the steam escaped and the plate peeled off. Then got red hot.

Generally induction hobs are very safe... But there's always a bigger idiot available.

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[JockandRita]

If you really wanted it to work you just put a steel plate on top of the induction and use it like a electric hotplate, you knew that already though

You're right Martin, I did know that as the last time we tried that the thin steel plate glowed red, and I was convinced that the direct contact and heat given off would crack the glass surface of induction hob, so binned that idea.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[funflair]

You're right Martin, I did know that as the last time we tried that the thin steel plate glowed red, and I was convinced that the direct contact and heat given off would crack the glass surface of induction hob, so binned that idea.

Cheers,

Jock.

Good heads up Jock that would have put me off as well, I don't think I will even contemplate it now

 

[MichaelT]

Our Orion XS gave us a constant 45a this morning topped up by our Shaudt unit giving another 10a.

Update. First time I've driven any distance/time with batteries needing charging. Drove for 2 hours and B2B put in 95amps so seems to average 45/46 amps per hour plus the Shaudt 10 to 15 amps means we replenish just over 10% SOC and hour. Now going to be on site at Haven for 3 nights so using EHU fir sockets, fridge and a bit of hot water so only TV and lights running off 12v.

 

[JockandRita]

Update. First time I've driven any distance/time with batteries needing charging. Drove for 2 hours and B2B put in 95amps so seems to average 45/46 amps per hour plus the Shaudt 10 to 15 amps means we replenish just over 10% SOC and hour. Now going to be on site at Haven for 3 nights so using EHU fir sockets, fridge and a bit of hot water so only TV and lights running off 12v.

Thanks Michael.

Enjoy your short break.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[JockandRita]

Good heads up Jock that would have put me off as well, I don't think I will even contemplate it now

It was very similar to this one Martin, rather than a solid diffuser plate. I didn't like what I saw regards it's reaction.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[Gaston aires]

... Do you actually need more?

The VanLife trend seems to be to have 500Ah of lithium, 500w of solar and a powerful B2B. But if you actually ask them, the battery never gets below 80%. And most of the time it's rammed full. It's a waste of money and payload.

We've got a 280Ah battery. Which means we can sit still of grid for a week in winter (assuming no solar). If I move, my 30A B2B gives me nearly a day of power for every hour of driving. After a couple of weeks of winter touring, I stopped at a campsite with a hookup to wash some clothes and got the battery back to full overnight (on a 20A charger). And for about 6 months of the year, my 175w of solar normally keeps me net positive anyway. Unless your battery is tiny, you don't need it to be full every day.

My sentiments exactly. We “only” have 230ah of underseat Fogstar and 280 watts of solar. All through September we were away not using any EHU and the worst dip was at 65%. OK, we are not heavy users, Kettles, toasters, hairdryers and the occasional low wattage air frier. The performance was excellent.
Phil

 

[Gaston aires]

It was very similar to this one Martin, rather than a solid diffuser plate. I didn't like what I saw regards it's reaction.

View attachment 974086

Cheers,

Jock.

Brilliant piece of kit. We have two so we can toast and play table tennis
Phil

 

[Guigsy]

Update. First time I've driven any distance/time with batteries needing charging. Drove for 2 hours and B2B put in 95amps so seems to average 45/46 amps per hour plus the Shaudt 10 to 15 amps means we replenish just over 10% SOC and hour. Now going to be on site at Haven for 3 nights so using EHU fir sockets, fridge and a bit of hot water so only TV and lights running off 12v.

When on long tours, I'm generally clocking enough miles per day even on a 30a B2B to keep me going. If I stop for a few days, I'll normally catch some rays to slow the discharge rate even in the winter. During the summer, solar alone is easily enough. So it's rare that my battery starts to run low. Because it's unlikely set of events where I'm on a long winter tour, but I've stopped still off-grid for a long period. Where can you do that in the UK or Europe?

From my plan and the weather, I can figure out if I need an overnight hookup to recharge a few days in advance. So I'll just stop in an aire or campsite that has power. It seemed easier to account for this rare scenario than spending an extra few hundred on a bigger charger.

The only time I've needed to find a EHU so far was in Ireland in October when there were several consecutive storms which meant we hunkered down for a week... And at the time I hadn't fitted the B2B, so I was only getting about 16A from the alternator.

 

[MichaelT]

When on long tours, I'm generally clocking enough miles per day even on a 30a B2B to keep me going. If I stop for a few days, I'll normally catch some rays to slow the discharge rate even in the winter. During the summer, solar alone is easily enough. So it's rare that my battery starts to run low. Because it's unlikely set of events where I'm on a long winter tour, but I've stopped still off-grid for a long period. Where can you do that in the UK or Europe?

From my plan and the weather, I can figure out if I need an overnight hookup to recharge a few days in advance. So I'll just stop in an aire or campsite that has power. It seemed easier to account for this rare scenario than spending an extra few hundred on a bigger charger.

The only time I've needed to find a EHU so far was in Ireland in October when there were several consecutive storms which meant we hunkered down for a week... And at the time I hadn't fitted the B2B, so I was only getting about 16A from the alternator.

We haven't had sun for 4 days so far.

Our charger doesn't have lithium profile so it's an emergency only option hence it's turned off.

Last winter in Spain we managed without a B2B and got enough sun mostly to charge up and got about 18a when driving.

 

[Guigsy]

Our charger doesn't have lithium profile so it's an emergency only option hence it's turned off.

You've got 400Ah of lithium, but no lithium friendly AC charger?

My conclusion was it's far easier to plug in for a few hours, than drive around in circles. So I bought a 20A AC charger. And most of the time I run it at 10A so the fan doesn't come on.

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[AdrianChen]

If it wasn't such a faff I would junk the absorption fridge and fit a condenser in the same hole - would also love a diesel version of the Alde 3020, or perhaps swap it for an Eberspacher Hydronic and calorifier using the existing Alde heating pipes - and maybe then I wouldn't need to worry about getting hold of autogas so much because the 430AH lithium and 550w solar would be plenty enough to do that lot leaving 2*11kg gas just for cooking.

 

[MichaelT]

You've got 400Ah of lithium, but no lithium friendly AC charger?

My conclusion was it's far easier to plug in for a few hours, than drive around in circles. So I bought a 20A AC charger. And most of the time I run it at 10A so the fan doesn't come on.

No 500a of lithium with 400w solar (plus going to fit wires for 200w portableone). Not needed a charger yet as solar generally does its work and we move nearly everyday so hoping not needed but I will get one once I get the go ahead from the accounts department .

 

[JockandRita]

You've got 400Ah of lithium, but no lithium friendly AC charger?

Same here re no Lithium friendly AC charger, but with 610Ah capacity, 320w of solar, and the 60A B2B. However, if the mains charger on Gel setting takes the batteries up to 90/95% (when needed), than that will do for me...............for now anyway until we see how we get on.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Cush]

Jock I wouldn't use voltage on lithium's as a guide to the soc.

I would have thought it’s a fairly good guide, particularly if not loaded significantly and having rested for a bit. After all the battery voltage is the total of the 4 cells and it’s their voltages that activate the over and under voltage “alarms”. If they can’t be relied on then there is a danger of over charging. Granted, the battery needs to have been at rest for a while. The % value is not reliable if not generated from the voltage value as the bms does not register drains of less than about 0.8 of an amp.

 

[Ditcha]

I would have thought it’s a fairly good guide, particularly if not loaded significantly and having rested for a bit. After all the battery voltage is the total of the 4 cells and it’s their voltages that activate the over and under voltage “alarms”. If they can’t be relied on then there is a danger of over charging. Granted, the battery needs to have been at rest for a while. The % value is not reliable if not generated from the voltage value as the bms does not register drains of less than about 0.8 of an amp.

The charge curve for Lifepo4 between roughly 10% and 90% is quite flat and when ever is a leisure battery truly at rest apart from when disconnected. As for the bms soc I would only ever truly believe it when at 100% or 0% that's why I use a shunt much more accurate.

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[Cush]

The charge curve for Lifepo4 between roughly 10% and 90% is quite flat and when ever is a leisure battery truly at rest apart from when disconnected. As for the bms soc I would only ever truly believe it when at 100% or 0% that's why I use a shunt much more accurate.

Good points well made

 

[hornsofallign]

Just a note to the OP, we only ever get 45a out of our 60a Sterling B2B, even when the batteries are depleted. I assumed (with no evidence) that the 15a loss was due to cable run, or the wrong thickness, but it's never mattered enough to change investigate further.

 

[headlight]

My Sterling 60 amp B2B delivers 55.5 amps to my LifePo4 battery.
The B2B rating is the input amps not the output amps.
So 60 amps in, and in my case 55.5 amps out the difference between the 2 figures is B2B inefficiency so I am getting 92.5 % efficiency which is about right for the Sterling B2B.

 

[hornsofallign]

Ah - didn't realise the 60a was the input amps. Learn something new everyday

 

[CAB96]

Ah - didn't realise the 60a was the input amps. Learn something new everyday

Does some also go to the fridge?

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