SPLIT Charge Stays On ALL TIME

[Johnnny]

Hi my durite split charge relay stays red light on all time even when remove fuse or disconnected from LIESURE battery
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[autorouter]

Can the B2b unit be placed next to leisure battery where my current relay is or does it have to be at starter battery which is under cab floor?

Ideally next to the leisure battery, that will minimise the voltage drop on the output side. Any voltage drop on the input side (starter battery) will be compensated, so it's not important. But near the starter battery is OK if more convenient, you just have to use nice thick cables on the output.

 

[Johnnny]

Sorry if sounding stupid but just to clarify my engine battery in front cab under floor.then 5m cable to back of van to relay and leisure battery.looking to swap relay with B2B.hopefully just straight swap 2 wires.
looking at ctek d250se 20a
sorry for dragging this out just want to know if as easy just to swap over and if that B2b any good
thanks

 

[autorouter]

just want to know if as easy just to swap over and if that B2b any good

CTEK is good quality stuff, I have a CTEK mains charger. You are replacing a Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) which works by sensing the rise in voltage of the alternator when the engine starts. This CTEK D250SE won't do that, it needs a feed from the alternator D+ or the ignition to tell it the engine is running and the alternator is producing power.

The B2B is at the back of the van, so you'll need a D+ or ignition wire all the way from the front somewhere. If you're running a power wire from the front, you can put in a thin ignition wire at the same time.

Ideally you'd use a D+ signal. That's the signal that turns off the alternator red light on the dashboard when the engine has started. But for a B2B you can get away with using the ignition signal, which comes on as soon as you turn the ignition key. This video shows the general idea.

 

[Johnnny]

Excellent video thanks very much. All I really need to do is run cable from b2b to fuse box and put in heavier fuses as other cables already there for very thanks again

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[Johnnny]

Hi and been looking at buying the ctek d250se B2b as looks simple to fit and gets good reviews.does anyone know for sure if lt will charge lithium battery as well as lead and arm which I have just now.I would like to know as intend on getting lithium at some point.
Thanks

 

[autorouter]

The D250SE does Lithium, the older D250SA doesn't:
"Battery types 12 V:; WET; MF; Ca/Ca; AGM; EFB; GEL; LiFePO₄"

You may know a temperature sensor is needed for lithium batteries, otherwise they may be damaged by charging below zero degrees. The sensor works for lead-acid types too, but it's a nice-to-have rather than essential.

 

[Mrjenben]

This CTEK D250SE won't do that, it needs a feed from the alternator D+ or the ignition to tell it the engine is running and the alternator is producing power.

Johnnny I think the video is a bit misleading unfortunately. According to the D250SE instructions you only need the D+ connection if your van has a smart alternator - unlikely unless your van is very recent?

If the van has a normal alternator the red smart alternator d+wire is left unconnected so it should be a straight swap with your old relay.

For the battery type, the black sensor wire is either left unconnected for a lead acid, connected to -ve for AGM or +12 v for lithium battery

The D250 is a great bit of kit, especially if you plan to fit a solar panel later as it also has a solar input. I had one in my old van and it was great. The earlier ones didn’t have the smart alternator or battery type capability btw.

 

[Johnnny]

Thanks should be even easier to fit then.my van isn't smart alternator just normal. But I thought like video I would need to run positive cable to van fuse box and piggyback fuse so only live when ignition switches on??

 

[autorouter]

I think the video is a bit misleading unfortunately. According to the D250SE instructions you only need the D+ connection if your van has a smart alternator - unlikely unless your van is very recent?

If the van has a normal alternator the red smart alternator d+wire is left unconnected so it should be a straight swap with your old relay.

Without the D+ connection, the D250SE is operating in voltage-sensitive mode - it turns on whenever the starter battery voltage is higher than the threshold. In simple systems that only ever happens when the alternator is charging the starter battery, so that all works fine.

In more complex systems, where the starter battery can be charged by a mains charger or a solar controller, the starter battery voltage can be raised by the charger, which could turn on the D250SE when it's not wanted. If it's set so it is triggered by the D+ then it won't turn on when not wanted.

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[Mrjenben]

Thanks should be even easier to fit then.my van isn't smart alternator just normal. But I thought like video I would need to run positive cable to van fuse box and piggyback fuse so only live when ignition switches on??

Yes no need for the d+ ignition positive. This is only needed if you have a smart alternator which wouldn’t always raise the voltage high enough to trigger the unit itself.

When I had a D250 the older version didnt have this capability. However, even with the d+ wire you may find it takes a while to disconnect when you switch the engine off. The voltage drops slowly, particularly with an AGM battery, but it will cut out eventually and it never caused me any problems.

Its designed to work fine with mains charging and will trickle charge the starter battery. Solar should be fine too, the unit includes a good 300w MPPT solar controller anyway. They are a really good piece of kit, although a bit pricey. They work out well especially if you want to integrate solar as well as alternator b2b charging with a proper multi stage charging profile.

 

[Johnnny]

Thanks for replies sorry if sound stupid but in simple terms basically I am able to remove vsr and replace with the ctek d250se B2B and with no solar and just basic battery I be fine,??
Only mentioned solar and lithium battery as thinking ahead and was wondering if ctek still suitable.
But wouldn't be a problem running ignition cable to ignition fuse box if means would turn off quicker when engine turned off
Thanks for your help

 

[Mrjenben]

Yep you should be fine.

The d+ would only come into effect to switch the Ctek on - when you switch the engine off it effectively disconnects that d+12v so it will just behave exactly as if you never connected it In the first place.

As the ctek always defaults to voltage sensing when the d+ signal is missing it still won’t disconnect until the voltage drops below a certain level - this may take a while unless there is any current draw on the leisure battery. To check it, if you briefly switch a light on in the van this will usually be enough to see it disconnect.

The d+ is only essential with a smart alternator because once the alternator sees your starter battery has charged it will drop the voltage below that required to keep the ctek connected, even though the engine is running. Your std alternator will always keep the voltage high enough to trigger the ctek whenever the engine is running so the d+ is not really needed.

So, in summary, at the moment just directly replace the vsr with the ctek.
When you change your lead acid batts to lithium you will need to connect the black lead from the ctek to a 12+ve feed but it’s ok left unconnected along with the red d+ lead for now. Youre well set for solar in future too

 

[Johnnny]

Brilliant you have put my mind to rest and gonna order one. Then take it a step at a time
I take it it will be ok when on ehu also
Thanks

 

[Johnnny]

Even better i don't need full kit wiring etc as already have cables to vsr

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[Mrjenben]

Brilliant you have put my mind to rest and gonna order one. Then take it a step at a time
I take it it will be ok when on ehu also
Thanks

Yep. There are very clear examples in the instruction book to help you.