Removal of Severe Paintwork Streaks

[Rammo]

Hi all,

My gold Burstner has some quite severe surface ‘streaks’ where water comes down the van’s side off the wind out awning. It’s affected both the paint and the surface of the large body decal that sits below.

I’ve tried various cleaning fluids including various Fenwick’s materials and polishes - but nothing touches it. I’ve stopped short of T Cut type products but I have read about biofilm removers being potentially effective.

Our van is beautiful apart from that - so I’d be very grateful for any advice that will help sort it.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[Calamaster]

My Moho is Black - 'Streaks' - wassat?

 

[Roger J Holman]

Whatever else you use, do not use Acetone on any painted surface, or kiss your painted surface good-by. The most widely used surface cleaner, 'cos its the best, is FARECLA. Don't use anything seriously abrasive, or caustic.

 

[TonyEmm]

I've had some successes with Acetone. Unfortunately you need to go to a hairdressers wholesaler to buy it in useful quantities in the UK, but it's available by the litre in many houshold shops in France. (You can of course get it as nail varnish remover in small bottles but be sure it really is Acetone).

Here's what it did to a well established set of marks on the front of my van, on the trim strip - doing the top joint later, currently defrosting my fingers around a cup of tea.

View attachment 717522

Acetone? On paintwork?
it was my understanding it was one of the best paint strippers around!
i hope I’m wrong….

 

[Trevor Wbm]

Acetone? On paintwork?
it was my understanding it was one of the best paint strippers around!
i hope I’m wrong….

No, on gel coat.

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[Gazgandalf]

As a detailing expert, i’m sure you can help me! My 2009 Rapido had advisories this year (for the first time) on headlamps. They are plainly dull on the top half, feel a bit rough and are a bit greenish looking.

I have plenty of sanding discs, from 40 grit right through to 1800 grit so I’m happy to diy the rubbing down but, having done that, what do you recommend as a final finish?

Just re-read your comment Tony, so I'm adding this - you might want to give your lights a quick buff with Polish to make sure they are 100% clear. And don't buff too long like I did and burn the plastic. See how much money I'm saving you? Then, make sure you use some kind of degreaser and a soft brush, an un-used new paint brush would be ideal. If no degreaser, then lash on some Fairy liquid, give them a good scrub-a-dub-dub (what were three men doing in a tub anyway?) Make sure they 'squeak' a sign of no grease or traffic film otherwise any product you use will be less effective. If you have some, a quick wipe with isopropyl or your girlfriends acetone nail polish remover will make it 100% prepped.

If you haven't finished the rubbing down buddy, try and keep to a higher grit, even if it means doing it longer or you can damage your lenses. Also, keep your polisher or or if doing it by hand, keep your hand moving. If you stay in one place, some lenses can 'burn' and leave a white misted area. Please don't ask how I know. Those red cheeks are embarrassment.

I continue ... my original answer ...
An expert Tony? I wish, I'd have a source of income hah! If I have gained the title, "Go to Detail DIY-er" I could end up inundated hah! No, I really don't mind helping fellow Campers.

Tony, there are different routes to go down. It seems that you have buffed up your headlights [on re-reading you haven't] and they are ready for some kind of protection, so I won't suggest complete kits as it would be a waste. [If you want to, you could go down the 'kit' road as Auto glym do a good one] So give me a while and I'll shop then list them for you:

Well, there are clear plastic films that cover you hard work and listed are some on Amazon here, along with prices and ratings. This is a bit faffy, although they will give long-lasting protection.

Amazon.co.uk : headlight film clear

www.amazon.co.uk

There are lacquer sprays:​

U-POL Clear # 1 UV Resistant Clearcoat Lacquer £20​

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10007950854

These are pretty easy to use and aren't as difficult as spraying paint on bodywork.

There are ceramics which can last 2 years

C4 Permanent Trim Restorer - Gtechniq

Up to 2 years durability, restores trim to 'as new' condition, for use on all exterior trim.

www.gtechniq.co.uk

Waxes
You could use any wax as a protection, which would be okay, but not terribly UV protective so would 'yellow' or 'haze' again quickly.

Sealants
Cheaper than the above, with some 'ceramic' content (5%) is a car sealant, the kind of stuff you would put on your car after polishing, to 'seal' the shine is CarPro reload. The beauty of this product is that it is an 'all over' product meaning you can even shine up your bodywork, plastics as well as headlights on your car or M'home and is well-rated. Have a look at it's properties here and what it can do:

CarPro - Reload 2.0 Spray Sealant

CarPro Reload Spray Sealant The fastest and most effective spray sealant, spray on and wipe off! Carpro Reload is a water-based product mainly composed from special modified silicon polymers (not silicone), glass based coating. Carpo Reload will leave a temporary layer and shield of protect

www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

Cheap as Chips PERL
And the cheaper option (count me amongst the members of this club) would be the Product I suggest earlier, Car Pro Perl, which after some searching works out cheapest on E-bay at £21 for a litre. That is good value Tony!
You can dilute this stuff and it's great for dashboards, tyre dressing, plastic windows, the black seals around doors/motorhome windows etc keeps them supple to keep out draughts and noise - you can use it on just about anything except your fish n chips hah!

It has UV protection which is what you're after Tony, to help slow down clouding and yellowing.
With this product, you will have to re-apply every few months to make sure they're protected, but as it's so cheap and so useful and VERY easy to apply (easier than pledge polish) giving them the occasional wipe won't be the end of the world time wise, especially if you wash your M'home often.

I think you can see which road I'd go down my friend hah! The others have a 'fuss' factor (with the exception of CarPro Reload which is as useful as PERL) and a higher price.

There is another product, "AeroSpace 303" a similar spray and wipe to PERL, but I find it less useful on other items, can't be diluted and so it works out a bit more. Good product though and well rated.

Oh and I dilute my PERL in an old spray-type kitchen cleaner product bottle. Be careful to wash it out well though, so it isn't affected by whatever was in it previously. This makes it very easy to use and keep applying until you get that slick, non-greasy, water-beading we all want.

Well, I hope I have laid out the most popular that I can think of Tony, hope that helps my friend. I suppose you could chose whatever suits your preference (long lasting vs short term) your skills (spray on vs wipe) and your pocket (wealthy Rapido owner or poor old budget-buyer-Oliver here) but whatever you chose, I hope it goes well buddy. Now, I'm off for a late, cold tea (meal), that'll teach me to have a quick last look before I close my lap-top hah! hah!

PS with regards to buffing, you can buy smaller pads with a smaller backing plate, about 3inch which you pop into your drill.
E.g. for £7 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37439268...d=link&campid=5338547443&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Ideal for little jobs like this and makes the whole thing quicker. Quite cheap on E-bay. They're an excellent hack. Keep moving the pad though. Just a drop or two of Polish and then perl (or whatever) rub around the lense and then buff in left to right then up and down motions making sure the pad NEVER goes dry. Now ..... forget my tea, I now need my bed hah!

 

[Gazgandalf]

As a detailing expert, i’m sure you can help me! My 2009 Rapido had advisories this year (for the first time) on headlamps. They are plainly dull on the top half, feel a bit rough and are a bit greenish looking.

I have plenty of sanding discs, from 40 grit right through to 1800 grit so I’m happy to diy the rubbing down but, having done that, what do you recommend as a final finish?

I forgot to add the link to the cheapest Car Pro Perl I could find, and this is a good price.

CarPro PERL: Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather Dressing 1L (1000ml) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CarPro PERL: Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather Dressing 1L (1000ml) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[TonyEmm]

Just re-read your comment Tony, so I'm adding this - you might want to give your lights a quick buff with Polish to make sure they are 100% clear. And don't buff too long like I did and burn the plastic. See how much money I'm saving you? Then, make sure you use some kind of degreaser and a soft brush, an un-used new paint brush would be ideal. If no degreaser, then lash on some Fairy liquid, give them a good scrub-a-dub-dub (what were three men doing in a tub anyway?) Make sure they 'squeak' a sign of no grease or traffic film otherwise any product you use will be less effective. If you have some, a quick wipe with isopropyl or your girlfriends acetone nail polish remover will make it 100% prepped.

If you haven't finished the rubbing down buddy, try and keep to a higher grit, even if it means doing it longer or you can damage your lenses. Also, keep your polisher or or if doing it by hand, keep your hand moving. If you stay in one place, some lenses can 'burn' and leave a white misted area. Please don't ask how I know. Those red cheeks are embarrassment.

I continue ... my original answer ...
An expert Tony? I wish, I'd have a source of income hah! If I have gained the title, "Go to Detail DIY-er" I could end up inundated hah! No, I really don't mind helping fellow Campers.

Tony, there are different routes to go down. It seems that you have buffed up your headlights [on re-reading you haven't] and they are ready for some kind of protection, so I won't suggest complete kits as it would be a waste. [If you want to, you could go down the 'kit' road as Auto glym do a good one] So give me a while and I'll shop then list them for you:

Well, there are clear plastic films that cover you hard work and listed are some on Amazon here, along with prices and ratings. This is a bit faffy, although they will give long-lasting protection.

Amazon.co.uk : headlight film clear

www.amazon.co.uk

There are lacquer sprays:​

U-POL Clear # 1 UV Resistant Clearcoat Lacquer £20​

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10007950854

These are pretty easy to use and aren't as difficult as spraying paint on bodywork.

There are ceramics which can last 2 years

C4 Permanent Trim Restorer - Gtechniq

Up to 2 years durability, restores trim to 'as new' condition, for use on all exterior trim.

www.gtechniq.co.uk

Waxes
You could use any wax as a protection, which would be okay, but not terribly UV protective so would 'yellow' or 'haze' again quickly.

Sealants
Cheaper than the above, with some 'ceramic' content (5%) is a car sealant, the kind of stuff you would put on your car after polishing, to 'seal' the shine is CarPro reload. The beauty of this product is that it is an 'all over' product meaning you can even shine up your bodywork, plastics as well as headlights on your car or M'home and is well-rated. Have a look at it's properties here and what it can do:

CarPro - Reload 2.0 Spray Sealant

CarPro Reload Spray Sealant The fastest and most effective spray sealant, spray on and wipe off! Carpro Reload is a water-based product mainly composed from special modified silicon polymers (not silicone), glass based coating. Carpo Reload will leave a temporary layer and shield of protect

www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

Cheap as Chips PERL
And the cheaper option (count me amongst the members of this club) would be the Product I suggest earlier, Car Pro Perl, which after some searching works out cheapest on E-bay at £21 for a litre. That is good value Tony!
You can dilute this stuff and it's great for dashboards, tyre dressing, plastic windows, the black seals around doors/motorhome windows etc keeps them supple to keep out draughts and noise - you can use it on just about anything except your fish n chips hah!

It has UV protection which is what you're after Tony, to help slow down clouding and yellowing.
With this product, you will have to re-apply every few months to make sure they're protected, but as it's so cheap and so useful and VERY easy to apply (easier than pledge polish) giving them the occasional wipe won't be the end of the world time wise, especially if you wash your M'home often.

I think you can see which road I'd go down my friend hah! The others have a 'fuss' factor (with the exception of CarPro Reload which is as useful as PERL) and a higher price.

There is another product, "AeroSpace 303" a similar spray and wipe to PERL, but I find it less useful on other items, can't be diluted and so it works out a bit more. Good product though and well rated.

Oh and I dilute my PERL in an old spray-type kitchen cleaner product bottle. Be careful to wash it out well though, so it isn't affected by whatever was in it previously. This makes it very easy to use and keep applying until you get that slick, non-greasy, water-beading we all want.

Well, I hope I have laid out the most popular that I can think of Tony, hope that helps my friend. I suppose you could chose whatever suits your preference (long lasting vs short term) your skills (spray on vs wipe) and your pocket (wealthy Rapido owner or poor old budget-buyer-Oliver here) but whatever you chose, I hope it goes well buddy. Now, I'm off for a late, cold tea (meal), that'll teach me to have a quick last look before I close my lap-top hah! hah!

PS with regards to buffing, you can buy smaller pads with a smaller backing plate, about 3inch which you pop into your drill.
E.g. for £7 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/37439268...d=link&campid=5338547443&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

Ideal for little jobs like this and makes the whole thing quicker. Quite cheap on E-bay. They're an excellent hack. Keep moving the pad though. Just a drop or two of Polish and then perl (or whatever) rub around the lense and then buff in left to right then up and down motions making sure the pad NEVER goes dry. Now ..... forget my tea, I now need my bed hah!

great info, Gazgandalf , thanks!

at the minute, I’ve started with 800 grit, by hand…. I’ve done boat gel coat before and while I have a buffer/polisher, I’m aware of how quickly it can be ‘burned’!

I’m in no rush, it’s 12 months to next MoT!

I’ve already said I’m not a ‘detailing’ fan so it’ll be little and probably, not too often!

I’ll investigate your links…

 

[andykim]

Spit and a hanky no good??

 

[Gazgandalf]

Spit and a hanky no good??

Only if you a mother cleaning your Childs chocolate chops

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[Gazgandalf]

Only if you a mother cleaning your Childs chocolate chops

OOpps "Only if YOU'RE a mother cleaning chocolate chops" not 'You a Mother'

 

[jordy74]

i tried lots of products on my old wanderer but the best one that really brought it off was power force mould and mildew remover.

 

[bernard pilkington]

Hi all,

My gold Burstner has some quite severe surface ‘streaks’ where water comes down the van’s side off the wind out awning. It’s affected both the paint and the surface of the large body decal that sits below.

I’ve tried various cleaning fluids including various Fenwick’s materials and polishes - but nothing touches it. I’ve stopped short of T Cut type products but I have read about biofilm removers being potentially effective.

Our van is beautiful apart from that - so I’d be very grateful for

any advice that will help sort it.

Cheers,

Ian.

Just try screwfix upvc cleaner i found it great and cheap never bothered my paint work ...cheers bernard

 

[Outdoors Dad]

My van is an old lady but I've always thought she looks tidy after a sponge down but I had some stubborn dirty streaks. I found some products on eBay that are sold by a fellow funster so bought direct to save fees etc. Im very happy with the finish I'll send some photos when van off drive. Even the finishing polish got rid of dirty water marks but I did get the medium also.....a whole bundle of polishes sealers etc.

The guy goes by Parrotsol.

 

[Badknee]

Lots of good solutions provided above. I keep the MH polished and waxed and as a result black streaks sit on the surface of the wax and not the paint. Therefore to clean streaks I use a Autoglym polish and then wax. Try Autoglym AquaWax after every wash, needs a bit of elbow grease as with any polish and wax process.

I use the same. Autoglym has a very mild cutting action then I use Colonite wax to seal it in.

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[andykim]

Colonite, that's an unfortunate product name