Rear Air Assist - do NOT use leisure battery

Thanks for all the comments re the compressor and voltage requirements....
As I previously stated, I can only take his word for it BUT he did exchange the compressor 'just in case'. The main point for me though is that it's now working.
Perhaps I should rewire it back to the leisure battery having seen the posts re the airbag warning light? Is that an expensive fix?
A stand alone rechargeable tyre inflater would probably be a much simpler proposition, and easier to use in practise. Additionally, it would also be available for any other vehicles you have 🤷‍♂️
 
A little tip if you are considering buying from Mar-Tech, ask for the knurled ring tees, that work like compression fittings, not the push fit ones.
I found that the push fit were a bit temperamental and could leak if the air hose connection was not perfectly in line. That happened when I tried to push all the 'gubbins' into the void in the dash. I changed to the knurled compression type fittings without a problem.

Front coils now fitted and the paperwork was sent off for vehicle weight change.

Did someone mention angles morts ....🤔🤔
I had the opposite problem. Mine came with the compression fittings but I had a persistent air leak on the driver's side, eventually traced to the compression swivel elbow fitting on the Rubena bag. Replaced with a plastic push fit and been fine since. Tried metal push fits but couldn't get the pipe to seat properly.
 
i am considering seeing if i can branch directly off the compressor to feed an airline for inflating the tyres. it should be simple enough to tap into the electrical circuit that activates the compressor. it would then require some way of switching the compressor on or off, which a momentary toggle or rocker switch could be used.

then it would need the connections between the 4mm hose from the compressor to the airline connection/take off point.

its one for the future though, i am in no rush and dont have the time to develop it .... unless someone knows a good reason why it wouldnt work - my thought is that the compressor as it is wouldnt be powerful enough, but i do have a 'ring' tyre compressor so could just install that - but then it doesnt give me anymore than i already have unless i can feed the air assist via the ring compressor ..... and i bet theres a good reason not to do that ??
I do the opposite. Tyre valve by the guage for my rear air assist, and a portable compressor in the garage that can pump up the tyres and add pressure to the suspension if needed. Which is rarely.
 
Up so that I get blown around less when overtaking Lorrys, and if I have to do a sudden movement firmer suspension. Lower it on rough road, also will be going slower. Will drop even more in Belgium, and I drop it right down when parked at home to get the rain off the roof asap.
I was playing with my pressures when new and couldn't hit a sweet spot (tried from 1 - 3 bar) - load pretty similar most trips, around 1970kg in the rear. SAP told me to run at around 3 bar, higher than I thought was necessary but it was explained to me that the rear air ststem works best / improves the ride and handling when more of the load is taken off the OEM leafs and taken up by the air bags. Made sense to me and now I leave it at pretty much that pressure and seems a good compromise.

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Yes, in hindsight if I was doing it again would do similar to what you've done.
I rarely need to adjust the pressures.
In fact, would not even bother with a compressor.
Tyre valves would do, I travel with a battery powered compressor for the tyres and that would do fine.
I fitted my MAD linear air springs without a compressor, put the gauges and valves in the recess on the side of the drivers seat base. I can see the gauges everytime I get in the cab. The air pressure is easy to raise with a bike pump.

As for the voltage issues, I doubt at this time of year the solar is putting out much, if it has a mppt controller then approx 14.2V. Which if charging through a B2B would be the same as the solar so no over voltage there.
 
i am considering seeing if i can branch directly off the compressor to feed an airline for inflating the tyres. it should be simple enough to tap into the electrical circuit that activates the compressor. it would then require some way of switching the compressor on or off, which a momentary toggle or rocker switch could be used.

then it would need the connections between the 4mm hose from the compressor to the airline connection/take off point.

its one for the future though, i am in no rush and dont have the time to develop it .... unless someone knows a good reason why it wouldnt work - my thought is that the compressor as it is wouldnt be powerful enough, but i do have a 'ring' tyre compressor so could just install that - but then it doesnt give me anymore than i already have unless i can feed the air assist via the ring compressor ..... and i bet theres a good reason not to do that ??
Not sure how you would do it but I’m sure it’s possible. I have a factory fitted air point under the side skirt along with a long reach airline to top up the tyres. It has come in super handy. I even inflated an air awning for an older guy on a site when his hand held electric pump had packed in. We have a large air accumulator so don’t even need to run the engine.
 
i am considering seeing if i can branch directly off the compressor to feed an airline for inflating the tyres. it should be simple enough to tap into the electrical circuit that activates the compressor. it would then require some way of switching the compressor on or off, which a momentary toggle or rocker switch could be used.

then it would need the connections between the 4mm hose from the compressor to the airline connection/take off point.

its one for the future though, i am in no rush and dont have the time to develop it .... unless someone knows a good reason why it wouldnt work - my thought is that the compressor as it is wouldnt be powerful enough, but i do have a 'ring' tyre compressor so could just install that - but then it doesnt give me anymore than i already have unless i can feed the air assist via the ring compressor ..... and i bet theres a good reason not to do that ??
I installed the compressor under the bonnet alongside the solenoid valves for the rear bags,two two way momentary switches and dual digital pressure gauge on the dash,the connection from the compressor is a standard female Schrader connector,so can be diss one ted from the suspension fill valve and used via a plug in extension hose to inflate tyres etc.I bought the bags and bracketsetc as a kit but the compressor valves, switches ,sensors and gauge were bought separately from various suppliers
 
I fitted a dual gauge system in the boot a few weeks ago. It came with the compressor but I have a Ryobi One + 18V (currently about £30 in their sale) which is a high pressure pump. Handy for tyres too and avoids cables .

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This simple solution works for me too!👌😎
Running at 2.0 bar normally, I drop it to 0.4 (required minimum) at each campstop so am not wasting hydraulic jack lift and then up to 5.0 bar for the ferry ramps. I wouldn't manage that with a bycicle pump.
 
Hi Folks,
I fitted a simple air assist system a few years ago. Gauges on the dash, no compressor. I regret not having the compressor and switches to had as we sometimes want to lift the back end when we get to park up - rough ground, high cerbs etc.
Two questions - 1, what is the life expectancy of the air bags?
and 2, has anyone fitted a compressor and switches as a retro fit? If so, how and what do you need?

It could be we stick to they system we have until we need to change the bags - hence the first question.

Having said all that - I really think the air assist is a good addition.
 
Hi Folks,
I fitted a simple air assist system a few years ago. Gauges on the dash, no compressor. I regret not having the compressor and switches to had as we sometimes want to lift the back end when we get to park up - rough ground, high cerbs etc.
Two questions - 1, what is the life expectancy of the air bags?
and 2, has anyone fitted a compressor and switches as a retro fit? If so, how and what do you need?

It could be we stick to they system we have until we need to change the bags - hence the first question.

Having said all that - I really think the air assist is a good addition.
Yes I " built" my own electricly controlled system..each side up or down independently from switches on the dash
 
solar is adding to the leisure battery that creates an over voltage
That is wrong, solar goes to a controller, then to the battery, there will always be a variable voltage on the battery, Voltage can be anything from 11.9 volts when discharged to 14.8 volts when fully charged, Air Pumps are not normally fussy, and if somehow, he is correct, then all you would have needed, was a DC regulated power converter, which are only a couple of quid. If anyone is installing any 12v Electrical equipment, that needs a precise 12v DC, it is best to use one of these, see picture:



Reg1.webp

Reg2.webp
 
A stand alone rechargeable tyre inflater would probably be a much simpler proposition, and easier to use in practise. Additionally, it would also be available for any other vehicles you have 🤷‍♂️

That’s the way I’ve done it - KISS all the way!

IMG_1273.webp

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That is wrong, solar goes to a controller, then to the battery, there will always be a variable voltage on the battery, Voltage can be anything from 11.9 volts when discharged to 14.8 volts when fully charged, Air Pumps are not normally fussy, and if somehow, he is correct, then all you would have needed, was a DC regulated power converter, which are only a couple of quid. If anyone is installing any 12v Electrical equipment, that needs a precise 12v DC, it is best to use one of these, see picture:



View attachment 1003858

View attachment 1003859think that .it be pushing it 10amp for a compressor , especially if starting under load
 
P.S. A small reference to my earlier comment, I changed my Router/Hub to a GL.iNet GL-X3000, and started getting problems, it was not great, so put in one those DC regulated units, been great ever since, The circuit kept shutting down on over voltage, 12v DC was not stable enough for the hub.
 

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