Re-Rivet Garage Door ?

[zac]

Is there a specific method to detach the gas strut whilst sorting this to make it easier?

Thanks for all the advice, I think I will see if I can just re rivet it and hope it lasts. It will buy me sometime until I can get it fixed properly.

 

[Landy Andy]

Is there a specific method to detach the gas strut whilst sorting this to make it easier?

Thanks for all the advice, I think I will see if I can just re rivet it and hope it lasts. It will buy me sometime until I can get it fixed properly.

The gas strut can be removed by gently prying off the shiny metal clip that goes over the socket head of the strut that you show in picture one. Small screwdriver under metal clip, pry off (catch it) then pry strut socket off ball on bracket.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

what is material being pop riveted to plastic or ally?
As an alternative to those options already suggested perhaps this option is viable,https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.u...RsEuhq0isOI0M76TUxqkGYRzuwVYc96xoC4RUQAvD_BwE

Stainless steel. Low profile countersunk. Self drilling and tapping. Could easily add extra fixings to stop it breaking loose in the future. Not a bodge, widely used around the country in all industries, you'll almost certainly have some on the fitting out of your van somewhere already.
Mike.

 

[zac]

Firstly, you need to measure the diameter of the hole the rivet fits into, then using a suitable sized punch or even a nail, knock the remaining portion into the door frame, then using the same punch, see how deep the cavity is, this will decide the maximum length of rivet you can use. By the looks of it, I'd be guessing it's a 4.8mm rivet, which is about the limit for putting in with a "normal" hand riveter, anything bigger usually needs a pneumatic gun or some "lazy tongs". You won't be able to buy rivets in quantities less than about 250 at a time (approximately £13)
You have to question why it's breaking though, is maybe that gas ram too strong ?
I've got some 4.8 mm rivets by 12mm long that you can have for free.
View attachment 554536

Will PM you, thanks for the offer.

 

[zac]

Quick question, is the door frame hollow ie is there space there to punch the old one up into it? dont want to damage it and i know this has been replaced once already so not sure if they have already done the same thing or managed to get the old one out.

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[Landy Andy]

You won’t be able to get the other part out, unless via an alternative hole, as the remain bit is bigger than the hole as it has been expanded.

 

[zac]

You won’t be able to get the other part out, unless via an alternative hole, as the remain bit is bigger than the hole as it has been expanded.

I hope its hollow then as there can't be a lot of room in there with one already there.

 

[L' Hobo]

what is material being pop riveted to plastic or ally?
As an alternative to those options already suggested perhaps this option is viable,https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.u...RsEuhq0isOI0M76TUxqkGYRzuwVYc96xoC4RUQAvD_BwE

Stainless steel. Low profile countersunk. Self drilling and tapping. Could easily add extra fixings to stop it breaking loose in the future. Not a bodge, widely used around the country in all industries, you'll almost certainly have some on the fitting out of your van somewhere already.
Mike.

I use the Hex headed type (not suitable for this OP's problem but) of these frequently and have never had a problem.
Can be used with appropriate washers to widen head cover.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

I use the Hex headed type (not suitable for this OP's problem but) of these frequently and have never had a problem.
Can be used with appropriate washers to widen head cover.

Ditto, I have put up thousands of square meters of composite industrial roofing sheets and walls using the same fixing system. I once had a trailer chassis part snap whilst being towed, as a jury fix to get it home I was able to scab some 3mm x 50mm flat plate onto both flanges of the angle beam fixed with the self drilling self tapping hex headed screws and continue on my journey.
I carry a small selection in the van for emergencies.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

The other reality is, the broken piece cannot be drilled out without increasing the size of the hole already in the fixing plate, and the door frame.
Mike.

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[L' Hobo]

The other reality is, the broken piece cannot be drilled out without increasing the size of the hole already in the fixing plate, and the door frame.
Mike.

Just a thought, is the gas-strut absolutely needed, why not just hold the door or put some other sort of restraint on it?

 

[zac]

Just a thought, is the gas-strut absolutely needed, why not just hold the door or put some other sort of restraint on it?

It is needed as if not there would be nothing stopping it hitting the body work without then drilling something into this to then take it. I am going to try and knock it through to see if that works. Fingers crossed.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

As suggested by another thread contributor, have a feel through the remains of the broken rivet for the depth available.
I would be surprised if any filler fillet had been fitted where the door cut section has been made from the side wall, you'll probably just be pushing into the insulation material between the inner and outer sheet of the side wall, if that makes sense!!
Good luck.
Mike.

 

[zac]

As suggested by another thread contributor, have a feel through the remains of the broken rivet for the depth available.
I would be surprised if any filler fillet had been fitted where the door cut section has been made from the side wall, you'll probably just be pushing into the insulation material between the inner and outer sheet of the side wall, if that makes sense!!
Good luck.
Mike.

Perfect sense, i did a search online and i could only find 12mm length rivets if the head is 16mm in diameter so i am hoping this is correct.

 

[L' Hobo]

Perfect sense, i did a search online and i could only find 12mm length rivets if the head is 16mm in diameter so i am hoping this is correct.

Large headed rivets are not always the strongest, use the strongest rivet you can find (the older style are sometimes better) with a thin washer.

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[L' Hobo]

Large headed rivets are not always the strongest, use the strongest rivet you can find (the older style are sometimes better) with a thin washer.

Forgot to mention, the use of a strong epoxy resin or suitable glue also helps.

 

[zac]

managed to punch what was left up into the door frame, I just put back what was already there so a 16mm diameter rivet but it needed to be 19mm in length. It seems to be holding quite good. Will keep an eye on it but if it goes again i will have to drill them both out and tackle it with some stronger alternatives. Thanks for the assistance as always its working for now and saved me a trip to Andover to get it looked at in a couple of weeks.
Pic of the new rivet in place added

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

managed to punch what was left up into the door frame, I just put back what was already there so a 16mm diameter rivet but it needed to be 19mm in length. It seems to be holding quite good. Will keep an eye on it but if it goes again i will have to drill them both out and tackle it with some stronger alternatives. Thanks for the assistance as always its working for now and saved me a trip to Andover to get it looked at in a couple of weeks.
Pic of the new rivet in place added

Well done, if you have the spare rivets, chuck another couple into the space left available, it might well stop it happening again.
Mike.

 

[bigalw35]

Firstly, you need to measure the diameter of the hole the rivet fits into, then using a suitable sized punch or even a nail, knock the remaining portion into the door frame, then using the same punch, see how deep the cavity is, this will decide the maximum length of rivet you can use. By the looks of it, I'd be guessing it's a 4.8mm rivet, which is about the limit for putting in with a "normal" hand riveter, anything bigger usually needs a pneumatic gun or some "lazy tongs". You won't be able to buy rivets in quantities less than about 250 at a time (approximately £13)
You have to question why it's breaking though, is maybe that gas ram too strong ?
I've got some 4.8 mm rivets by 12mm long that you can have for free.
View attachment 554536

A most generous offer, as for the length I would imagine 10/12mm would, but you need to know the thickness of the two metals to be fixed, that predetermines the length of the rivet, good luck

 

[bigalw35]

managed to punch what was left up into the door frame, I just put back what was already there so a 16mm diameter rivet but it needed to be 19mm in length. It seems to be holding quite good. Will keep an eye on it but if it goes again i will have to drill them both out and tackle it with some stronger alternatives. Thanks for the assistance as always its working for now and saved me a trip to Andover to get it looked at in a couple of weeks.
Pic of the new rivet in place added

Well done

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