Punctures and more Punctures......

[63720]

I carry this.

Weldtite Bike Tyre Seal 100g | Halfords UK

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Several years ago were cycling a canal path when wifey had a rear puncture. I upturned the bike and used the kit as advised and it not only sealed the tube but having forgotten about the incident we sold the bike over a year later with the tyre still fully inflated.

 

[sgl5gjr]

Well .....it is that time of year..... for punctures.... I'm in the Bike trade and it's been punctures since the rains started in early October...lol.... Anyway, from my side of the coin as they say, on a lot of cycle forums I see the same old, you need this tyre, that tyre etc....same as everywhere..... you need this make or that make, often just 2 brand names come into the equation. So.... Punctures... there is no right or wrong, I have customers who want slime tubes, Tubeless tyres, heavily banded puncture proof brands. From what comes through the workshop, I see the heavy puncture proof Marathons and Gatorskins put on the wrong wheels (I mean either poor quality or not up to the job as in not sufficient spokes) mainly stock wheels from makers, which round off the spoke holes in the hubs and so a trade off for no or fewer punctures. Tubeless seem to be more useful on wider tyres/wheels combinations like Mountain Bike and Gravel/CX bike applications as road bikes tend to suffer more flats than not. Some say Tubeless road bike tyres are a poorer construction some argue not. then Slime tubes...they either work or not and like tubeless tyres the valves can clog up. The biggest issue for most are the poor road surfaces we are aware of as we drive, broken up, potholes and other debris. Personally on my Dutch bike I use Marathons with woods valves and 36 spoke wheels, Road bike 1 has Schwalbe One on 2 spoke wheels and Road bike 2 has Schwalbe One on 32 spoke wheels (these two get most use and over the past 4 years on these tyres on exclusive road use...only one puncture ....on my Motorhome Bike a CX which has been converted to Gravel bike spec I have Panaracer Gravelking SK and no punctures on mixed terrain.... I always opt for folding tyres as they are easier to pop off when on the road side if needed
I was out with a pal from a different household as you are able to be....on Saturday and he had a nasty cut in his tubeless tyre on his road bike....ended up putting one of my tubes in, It was flint which cut the tyre acting like a blade, lubricated by the water on the ground. We used Co2 as it is easier to carry while travelling but usually use a pump.
Safe cycling everyone..... and may you stay puncture free....

 

[andy63]

Think I've found the right thread
And ill resurrect it ..
Been doing up an old bike and decided it may as well be tubeless as well as the newer bike rather than have to worry about having two repair kits and making sure I take the right one out with me..
But in spite of my best efforts its taken me the thick end of 4 hours to get the tyres on and any sort of a seal ..
Main problem seems to have been leakage around the tubeless valve and the sealant just does not seem to have been able to stem the flow.... not the spoke holes or rim.. so has anyone got any tips or recommendations on valve make or type they fit.. a quick look suggests there are a few different profiles of valve that sit in the rim and I haven't had enough experience as the other bike has been pretty well fit and forget with very little work required on the tyres.
In spite of the generator featuring in the photo...this is not a generator thread
One of the wheels has lost pressure again..so its back to square one with that one
Andy..

 

[Ridgeway]

Lucky man having a compressor on hand, at least seating the tyre beads should be easy although a white floor is quite a common sight when it come to TL installation

Re valve types it's best to check with what the rim manufacturer recommends as you are correct in saying there are a few shapes around. I've found that i tend to over tighten valves and this does cause issues, they actually don't need to be that tight although they do need to seat inside the rim decently. I would typically test everything without sealant and you should know if the valve has sealed well enough, say it will stay inflated without loosing too much pressure for several hours, if it deflates pretty quickly then no sealant will solve it and you need to sort that valve out before going further.

I found the Muc Off TL valves that have a conical washer to work well on 2 rims now although i use some more rectangular shaped ones on 2 other wheel sets (DT Swiss valves).

 

[PhilMary]

I assume you are using tubeless rims?

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[andy63]

I assume you are using tubeless rims?

I'd have to check ..they are wheels I built years ago as a second set..and tbh I havnt checked ..but one of the tyres is fitted and sealed now..that may not mean they are tubeless rims I suppose..
Hmmmm

 

[andy63]

I would typically test everything without sealant and you should know if the valve has sealed well enough, say it will stay inflated without loosing too much pressure for several hours,

I'm not doing that.. ive got the sealant in from the start..thinking that it would seal up any escaping air....but the escape round the valve is not sealing..
If I find out I'm not in fact wasting my time with incompatible rims I'll maybe try one or two other makes of valves
Andy

 

[Ridgeway]

TL is a little trial and error, always good to test the set up before committing to sealant, then things get messy and there's no way back.....

Now you're committed any changes mean a drain down of sealant and a clean up before re-installing.

 

[kevenh]

Over 4 yr ago now I switched my Specialised from tubed to tubeless - all the parts were included with the bike purchase (expect sealant)
While my front wheel was a pop task to get converted, my rear wheel's tubeless valve wouldn't seal.
Took it to the LBS (who are the local main dealer for Specialised) and said "Wassup? these are all your bits, why ain't they sealing?"
He verified that I wasn't a complete tool by trying the same valve, then he binned it and got a new one out of his drawer of bits.
That new one worked!

Long short, how easily can you try another valve?
Also, as suggested, without sealant, the tyre should retain pressure for a few hours to validate the install.

 

[kevenh]

Also, from a tinternet search, it looks like the MAVIC A317 disc rim is valid for a tubeless system.

Did some one check you have the wide, tubeless specific rim tape?
Or do you still have the thinner standard rim tape that mainly covers spoke ends?

edit: sorry, at work I get German search results & missed the X317 v A317 thing.
I hope the X317 is also tubeless

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[andy63]

Over 4 yr ago now I switched my Specialised from tubed to tubeless - all the parts were included (expect sealant)
While my front wheel was a pop task to get converted, my rear wheel's tubeless valve wouldn't seal.
Took it to the LBS (who are the local main dealer for Specialised) and said "Wassup? these are all your bits, why ain't they sealing?"
He verified that I wasn't a complete tool by trying the same valve, then he binned it and got a new one out of his drawer of bits.
That new one worked!

Long short, how easily can you try another valve?
Also, as suggested, without sealant, the tyre should retain pressure for a few hours to validate the install.

Bike shop is shut today..I did pop down there to see if I could get another valve but it is likely to be same make as the ones I have..
Ill check online later as well..
I had to re tape these rims to seal the spoke holes off..just used some gorilla tape cut to width..
Andy

 

[andy63]

Also, from a tinternet search, it looks like the MAVIC A317 disc rim is valid for a tubeless system.

Thanks

 

[cmcardle75]

Same here. Using Bontrager (Trek) tubeless setup. The valves never seal reliably. You need to keep spinning them round and fiddling in hope they'll keep air in for more than a week. Not helped by the very secure bead. It takes all my strength to break the bead in removing them using the stand on the tyre and pull the rim up technique (is there a better way?) My motorbike bead breaker doesn't get close to breaking them.

 

[kevenh]

Same here. Using Bontrager (Trek) tubeless setup. The valves never seal reliably. You need to keep spinning them round and fiddling in hope they'll keep air in for more than a week. Not helped by the very secure bead. It takes all my strength to break the bead in removing them using the stand on the tyre and pull the rim up technique (is there a better way?) My motorbike bead breaker doesn't get close to breaking them.

The technique I use is to keep the tyre central and use the slack on an opposite end to pull the tyre off.
In the centre of the rim, the circumference is narrowest.

 

[cmcardle75]

Same here. Using Bontrager (Trek) tubeless setup. The valves never seal reliably. You need to keep spinning them round and fiddling in hope they'll keep air in for more than a week. Not helped by the very secure bead. It takes all my strength to break the bead in removing them using the stand on the tyre and pull the rim up technique (is there a better way?) My motorbike bead breaker doesn't get close to breaking them.

However, they do work very well with punctures. Had one on a scout bike ride last summer when we were allowed to do such things. Another leader actually heard and saw the air escape as I punctured on a very nasty thorn. I didn't even need to stop. I just lost about 20psi (which was probably beneficial on the particular surface). A lot less faffing about on the ride than changing inner tubes. The hole was about 3mm diameter when I examined it when I got back.

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[cmcardle75]

The technique I use is to keep the tyre central and use the slack on an opposite end to pull the tyre off.
In the centre of the rim, the circumference is narrowest.

That's the easy bit. Bontrager rims have a very secure bead retention that requires about 50-100kg of force to unseat, even harder than a car or motorcycle tyre. I guess that's great if you run big fat balloon tyres at 2psi, but is overkill for normal use! There's literally no way these tyres are coming off the rim accidentally, not without major damage to the wheel, anyway.

 

[bigwood]

Our son used to get punctures whilst riding to college at the same time of year. I could never find anything that had punctured the tube.
By chance I walked muttly along the same path he used and met a guy that was pushing a bike with a puncture. I mentioned our sons punctures and the guy and said it was hawthorns that the council had trimmed but not swept up.

 

[Landy Andy]

Nukeproof valves fitted to mine and worked first time. I’ve now learnt that most people run about twice the recommended amount, especially on the first setup as so much of it gets used up sealing the tyre the first time. When you fill what tyre pressures are you putting into the tyres. Was just thinking that if you stick them up high with that big compressor of yours, that the goo will have a harder job trying to seal the holes.

 

[kevenh]

Inflate to max tyre pressure to fully seat tyre, then deflate to lower pressure for use

 

[ADJF]

Whilst we are talking punctures, does anyone know where I can source a pair of innertubes for a Honda C90 Supercub (1993) size 2.75/3.00-17 in Switzerland!! I'm really struggling! Until then I'm doing extra mileage on my Cannondale gravel bike, with this wonderful warm sunny weather I'm keen to get out on the Cub as well.

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[andy63]

Whilst we are talking punctures, does anyone know where I can source a pair of innertubes for a Honda C90 Supercub (1993) size 2.75/3.00-17 in Switzerland!!

Sorry can't help with that...
I'm popping back on just to give a little update and say thanks for your time help and replies
As you know I managed to get one wheel sorted yesterday..the second one just kept leaking round the valve and the sealant just wouldn't stop the flow even though I'm sure I've seen it sort leaks of that size on a tyre which punctured..
Anyways I cleaned it up..re taped it and cheated with a little pu adhesive under the valve seat ..(every good motorhomer will have that lying around)

This morning it took minutes to pop the tyre on and inflate it..no leaks..
So its now just down to trying it on the bike and see if the rims and tyres hold out in a tubeless format..
If they don't ill let you all know..
Thanks again..
Andy

 

[kevenh]

This morning it took minutes to pop the tyre on and inflate it..no leaks..
So its now just down to trying it on the bike and see if the rims and tyres hold out in a tubeless format..
If they don't ill let you all know..
Thanks again..
Andy

That looks sound
GL

 

[andy63]

I got this bike back in around 2000..and its been a good one , but it was replaced a year ago with a trek pro caliber 9.7...
And basically neglected since as it needed a bit work to get it right again..

Well its sorted and going like it used to..
New headset.. front wheel bearings..shimano 500 series brakes off the new bike which got upgraded to 4 pot callipers..
180mm rotor up front..and inner and outer cabling all renewed..
Ohh and its now tubeless..
And kept me out of mischief for a day or two
And no its not getting a new saddle
Andy..

 

[March Hare]

Hi, Apologies for jumping back on this thread with another puncture question - I wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or not, so I hope you don't mind.

I decided to swap my Slime inner tubes for regular tubes and a pair of Zefal tyre liners (blue) on my Cube Kathmandu hybrid e-bike.

All went fine and I've been out a couple of times (50 miles approx) since I did the swap on Wednesday. This morning though, I went to get the bike out for a ride and the inner tube had blown-out. It was a new Continental tube on Wednesday. The tube has not blown-out at the location where the tyre liner ends which I did wonder about.

When I changed the tubes I was careful to check that the inner tube hadn't caught on the rim, but perhaps I missed something? I do check the tyre pressure before each ride (50 psi). The tyres are Schwalbe Marathon e-Plus 29".

Are there any suggestions please on what could have caused this - I'm of course thankful that it didn't blow-out when I was riding it?

 

[Landy Andy]

Hi, Apologies for jumping back on this thread with another puncture question - I wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or not, so I hope you don't mind.

I decided to swap my Slime inner tubes for regular tubes and a pair of Zefal tyre liners (blue) on my Cube Kathmandu hybrid e-bike.

All went fine and I've been out a couple of times (50 miles approx) since I did the swap on Wednesday. This morning though, I went to get the bike out for a ride and the inner tube had blown-out. It was a new Continental tube on Wednesday. The tube has not blown-out at the location where the tyre liner ends which I did wonder about.

When I changed the tubes I was careful to check that the inner tube hadn't caught on the rim, but perhaps I missed something? I do check the tyre pressure before each ride (50 psi). The tyres are Schwalbe Marathon e-Plus 29".

Are there any suggestions please on what could have caused this - I'm of course thankful that it didn't blow-out when I was riding it?View attachment 469496

Wow. 50psi is high. I’m big, and running 25-30psi. Maybe the high pressure had something to do with it??
Interesting that you mention the start and finish of the liner, as that is know to cause problems.
Slime inner tubes do feel thicker, and possibly higher quality rubber.

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[MattR]

For those looking to go down the tubeless route, this was recommended to me last summer on another thread, I think. It has worked well, with less topping up required and it is cheaper than alternatives that I've used.

<Broken link removed>
You would need something like this to get the gunge into the tyres: <Broken link removed>

Buying all this cost a little more than the price of one tyre refill and the kit can be used many times and the sealant will do approx 5 of my tyres. I diluted it slightly, also following advice but not as much as others do.

 

[March Hare]

Wow. 50psi is high. I’m big, and running 25-30psi. Maybe the high pressure had something to do with it??
Interesting that you mention the start and finish of the liner, as that is know to cause problems.
Slime inner tubes do feel thicker, and possibly higher quality rubber.

Hi LA! Thanks for your reply! Tbh, I did wonder if that was too high, but the pressure was recommended by a chap in the bike shop.

I'll drop the pressure down then and see how I get on!

Thanks again!

 

[Wikky]

Hi LA! Thanks for your reply! Tbh, I did wonder if that was too high, but the pressure was recommended by a chap in the bike shop.

I'll drop the pressure down then and see how I get on!

Thanks again!

It looks as though you've had a blowout due to the high pressure.

 

[MattR]

Wow. 50psi is high. I’m big, and running 25-30psi. Maybe the high pressure had something to do with it??
Interesting that you mention the start and finish of the liner, as that is know to cause problems.
Slime inner tubes do feel thicker, and possibly higher quality rubber.

I wonder whether March Hare is running 2.1s or 2.25s but 50 psi is within normal range for the standard version of these tyres. Running at 20-30 psi is likely to cause snakebite punctures for these tyres isn't it?

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[March Hare]

Thanks for your replies!

Sorry, I should have given more info about the tyres in my original post!

I've just taken a photo of the side wall - the tyres are Schwalbe Marathon e-Plus tyres.

The sidewall has the PSI as 45-70 PSI (3-5 BAR)

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