One week into our trip to France

[bellabee]

varaizian If Portiragnes is full, Serignan Plage CCP is a good alternative. By road, it is about an 8-mile drive, but on foot, along the beach, it's only about 20 mins.

We prefer Portiragnes because it's right next to the beach. Serignan is actually on the same beach, just a bit further along - so equally good for dogs.

Serignan Plage is full of closed campsites, at this time of year, but the CCP is far more spacious and about a 10 min walk to the beach.

 

[Mousy]

bellabee Gus looks a beauty! We are loving following your holiday. So glad you are both away having a great time. It seems a lifetime ago we met in Shrewsbury and enjoyed your company in our van.
Wonderful photos of some great places new to us. Many thanks.

 

[bellabee]

bellabee Gus looks a beauty! We are loving following your holiday. So glad you are both away having a great time. It seems a lifetime ago we met in Shrewsbury and enjoyed your company in our van.
Wonderful photos of some great places new to us. Many thanks.

Hi Dawn. Thanks for your comments. We're enjoying your trip, too. Greece looks fabulous. Apart from a week's holiday in Corfu, I've never been there. Next autumn, maybe.

It does, indeed seem like a long time since the Shrewsbury New Year's meet - three years, I think.

Gus is an absolute treasure. He's a rescue from Spain - never complains and is always really grateful for everything. He won't go in the bike trailer, though . I think Millie should have a stern word with him.

 

[bellabee]

As it was Monday when we left Mazamet, and we knew that most places were likely to be dead, we travelled just a few kilometers to Labruguière, where we knew there was a very spacious and comfortable aire, by the side of a large park with a fishing lake. It's a place where you can spend a lazy day in the open-air, walking a dog and enjoying the last of the sunshine.

The town of Labruguière has little to offer, but it's the starting point for walking and biking trails through the Montagne Noire.

On Tuesday, we went to the beautiful episcopal city of Albi. We really like this city. It isn't too big and busy and there is a lovely atmosphere in its narrow streets of half-timbered buildings.

The cathedral claims to be the largest brick building in the world, and the old episcopal palace houses the Toulouse-Lautrec museum.

There's a free aire in Albi and, although it's clean and tidy, we didn't like the atmosphere very much. We've found that free, urban aires, are often home to long-term residents. This was the case in Albi, where one van had a couple of very large dogs which were running free, making us slightly nervous about the safety of our own dog.

Yesterday, we drove to Villefranche de Rouergue, stopping on the way at Laguépie, a town we'd never previously heard of - and one which we would never have visited, if we hadn't got motorhome.

We'll definitely return there.

I love the market in Villefranche de Rouergue, and that's why I wanted to be there today - Thursday. The market square forms a perfect backdrop and it's easy to imagine the markets which have taken place there for the past thousand years, with farmers and producers bringing their goods for sale.

At this time of year, there are few tourists and the locals queue at their favourite stalls.

We sat and enjoyed a coffee, on the balcony as we watched the world go about it's business.

 

[Grianan]

Another one for the list! Is that your dog? He’s lovely

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[bellabee]

Another one for the list! Is that your dog? He’s lovely

Thanks. He's half Dalmatian and we think the other half is Podenco .

 

[Kilroy]

As it was Monday when we left Mazamet, and we knew that most places were likely to be dead, we travelled just a few kilometers to Labruguière, where we knew there was a very spacious and comfortable aire, by the side of a large park with a fishing lake. It's a place where you can spend a lazy day in the open-air, walking a dog and enjoying the last of the sunshine.

The town of Labruguière has little to offer, but it's the starting point for walking and biking trails through the Montagne Noire.

On Tuesday, we went to the beautiful episcopal city of Albi. We really like this city. It isn't too big and busy and there is a lovely atmosphere in its narrow streets of half-timbered buildings.

The cathedral claims to be the largest brick building in the world, and the old episcopal palace houses the Toulouse-Lautrec museum. View attachment 824988View attachment 824989View attachment 824991

There's a free aire in Albi and, although it's clean and tidy, we didn't like the atmosphere very much. We've found that free, urban aires, are often home to long-term residents. This was the case in Albi, where one van had a couple of very large dogs which were running free, making us slightly nervous about the safety of our own dog.

Yesterday, we drove to Villefranche de Rouergue, stopping on the way at Laguépie, a town we'd never previously heard of - and one which we would never have visited, if we hadn't got motorhome.

We'll definitely return there.
View attachment 825009View attachment 825010


View attachment 825011


I love the market in Villefranche de Rouergue, and that's why I wanted to be there today - Thursday. The market square forms a perfect backdrop and it's easy to imagine the markets which have taken place there for the past thousand years, with farmers and producers bringing their goods for sale.

At this time of year, there are few tourists and the locals queue at their favourite stalls.

We sat and enjoyed a coffee, on the balcony as we watched the world go about it's business.View attachment 825018View attachment 825025View attachment 825026

great photos & commentary!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Looks fabulous, Villefranche goes on our list.

 

[varaizian]

varaizian If Portiragnes is full, Serignan Plage CCP is a good alternative. By road, it is about an 8-mile drive, but on foot, along the beach, it's only about 20 mins.

We prefer Portiragnes because it's right next to the beach. Serignan is actually on the same beach, just a bit further along - so equally good for dogs.

Serignan Plage is full of closed campsites, at this time of year, but the CCP is far more spacious and about a 10 min walk to the beach.

We have made it here after dodging the storms and well worth the wait. Thanks for the tip That is Maggie looking for her treat!

 

[bellabee]

We have made it here after dodging the storms and well worth the wait. Thanks for the tip That is Maggie looking for her treat!

View attachment 826057

She's a very good girl .

(And you've got very good taste in bags! It's exactly the same as mine )

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[Lenny HB]

Graham says 'Where's the actual photographic proof that you went on the Black Forest Line?'

Had to pay and go through the turnstile to get to that point to take the photo.
Do you really think I'd pay and not get my monies worth.

 

[bellabee]

Had to pay and go through the turnstile to get to that point to take the photo.
Do you really think I'd pay and not get my monies worth.

Should have come to France. It was free!

 

[varaizian]

She's a very good girl .

(And you've got very good taste in bags! It's exactly the same as mine )

Jen bought that in the little shop on the Edgcumbe Estate in Cornwall overlooking Plymouth Sound a few years ago and uses it for all the dog paraphernalia that she carries along with bits of shopping etc. Portiragnes was full again last night but there was a mass exodus this AM because the wind was really strong and it was sheeting with rain.

 

[bellabee]

I've got catching up to do again.

We've been watching Méteo France, since we arrived in France, and we knew that the fantastic weather was coming to an end. Our aim was to try to dodge the worst of the rain (no chance! We've got to travel north and the poor weather is everywhere.) We also decided to try to stay in places where there was something interesting to see, even in the rain.

Sarlat Saturday Market is always a good bet, whatever the weather, so we headed to Sarlat on Friday - parked on the free aire at Carrefour, which is about a 30 min walk into town.

There are so many beautiful buildings in Sarlat, and such lovely produce on the market that we never tire of it. We were also lucky in that the weather stayed dry.

As the forecast for the weekend was fair, we decided to have a couple of "outdoors' days, and went to the aire at Cénac for two nights.

The Dordogne river was deep and fast-flowing, after the rain, so I dared not let Gus run off his lead on the riverbank, but there is a good field at the aire, where he could run freely and play with his new toy.

Sunday, we climbed the hill to Domme - another old favourite. Again, the weather was kind to us.

Bergerac was our next stop. We had a choice of either the gloomy and muddy municipal campsite right on the riverbank and just a walk across the bridge into the town centre, or the AirePark aire - dry and clean, but about 2 miles out of town. Because more rain was forecast, we chose the aire.

The aire is almost brand new, located next to an extensive, landscaped park with multiple pools - some with birdwatching hides, but the largest with an artificial beach. It is a wonderful facility and has walking and biking routes into town, through the trees. Even in the gloomy weather, we enjoyed the walk into town.

Overnight, the rain was torrential and we were very glad to have stayed at the aire rather than the campsite.

We don't feel that we did Bergarac justice and will be back another time, in better weather.

 

[bellabee]

I'm sure Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a very well-known tourist destination, but we hadn't really heard of it. We picked it out when we saw that was one of the Plus Beaux Villages, had an aire, and was more or less on our route towards Dieppe.

It proved to be a lucky choice. We were really impressed.

The free aire with services, is at the foot of the village, next to the very nice tennis courts, close to the (closed) campsite and near to the river.

A beach has been laid by the river and it seems that canoeing and kayaking are popular in summer.

The village was quite lively, even at this time of year, and is very popular with Brits, who outnumbered the French. I imagine that many have homes here.

Aubeterre has a castle, a lovely square shaded by lime trees, and two remarkable churches. The church of St Jacques, a stage on the route to Compostela, has a beautifully ornate doorway, and there are very interesting explanations of the significance of the carvings.

The church of St John is the largest subterranean Church in Europe. It is hewn out of the rock below the castle, and contains sarcophagi which are thought to pre-date Christianity.

The church was expanded by Christians returning from the crusades and was used as a repository for relics brought back from the Holy Land. Pilgrims on the road to Compostela would visit them because they believed they offered protection.

Graham was fascinated by the gargantuan physical task of building such a place, but for me, there were so many unanswered questions about who all these people were and why they had done it.

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[Holly's mum]

I'm sure Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a very well-known tourist destination, but we hadn't really heard of it. We picked it out when we saw that was one of the Plus Beaux Villages, had an aire, and was more or less on our route towards Dieppe.

It proved to be a lucky choice. We were really impressed.
View attachment 827865

The free aire with services, is at the foot of the village, next to the very nice tennis courts, close to the (closed) campsite and near to the river.

A beach has been laid by the river and it seems that canoeing and kayaking are popular in summer.

The village was quite lively, even at this time of year, and is very popular with Brits, who outnumbered the French. I imagine that many have homes here.

Aubeterre has a castle, a lovely square shaded by lime trees, and two remarkable churches. The church of St Jacques, a stage on the route to Compostela, has a beautifully ornate doorway, and there are very interesting explanations of the significance of the carvings.
View attachment 827834

The church of St John is the largest subterranean Church in Europe. It is hewn out of the rock below the castle, and contains sarcophagi which are thought to pre-date Christianity.

The church was expanded by Christians returning from the crusades and was used as a repository for relics brought back from the Holy Land. Pilgrims on the road to Compostela would visit them because they believed they offered protection.
View attachment 827850View attachment 827852View attachment 827853
Graham was fascinated by the gargantuan physical task of building such a place, but for me, there were so many unanswered questions about who all these people were and why they had done it.

Very impressive churches, thank you for sharing. We will have to add that to our list of places to visit.

I am enjoying following your thread, thank you for taking the time to post your travels.

 

[Ziggy123]

It looks like we have nearly caught up with you. So pleased we are now on a similar route as your trip has looked fabulous and I am in awe of your knowledge of places to stay!
We have just arrived in the Dordogne today, staying in a camping car park Les Eyziers-de-tayac-sureil. Had a beautiful countryside/river walk today, albeit very soggy! I've made a note re market in Sarlat Saturday as we haven't made one yet and I was so looking forward to that.. plus I need more French delicacies for my Christmas hampers!!

I haven't booked tunnel yet but am thinking end of next week, so we can take our time and I see you are leaving via Dieppe but where do you choose to go to the vets? That's my next research task! I set husband on to it this afternoon while I was working and he found one near Rouen which was around 35 euro but any recommendations welcome! And any must see destinations on route!

Where are you now?

Your photos are stunning, nice to see what it looks like in sunshine! Still fabulous in the rain!

 

[bellabee]

Ziggy123 I've booked an appointment with the vet at la Mailleraye sur Seine for Monday afternoon. We're sailing from Dieppe on Wednesday evening.

 

[varaizian]

It looks like we have nearly caught up with you. So pleased we are now on a similar route as your trip has looked fabulous and I am in awe of your knowledge of places to stay!
We have just arrived in the Dordogne today, staying in a camping car park Les Eyziers-de-tayac-sureil. Had a beautiful countryside/river walk today, albeit very soggy! I've made a note re market in Sarlat Saturday as we haven't made one yet and I was so looking forward to that.. plus I need more French delicacies for my Christmas hampers!!

I haven't booked tunnel yet but am thinking end of next week, so we can take our time and I see you are leaving via Dieppe but where do you choose to go to the vets? That's my next research task! I set husband on to it this afternoon while I was working and he found one near Rouen which was around 35 euro but any recommendations welcome! And any must see destinations on route!

Where are you now?

Your photos are stunning, nice to see what it looks like in sunshine! Still fabulous in the rain!

I give you massive credit for a sunny disposition in this weather. We are not too far from you at Bourdeilles but have decided to go home tomorrow. It is only a couple of hours drive. Bonne Voyage!

 

[varaizian]

I'm sure Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is a very well-known tourist destination, but we hadn't really heard of it. We picked it out when we saw that was one of the Plus Beaux Villages, had an aire, and was more or less on our route towards Dieppe.

It proved to be a lucky choice. We were really impressed.
View attachment 827865

The free aire with services, is at the foot of the village, next to the very nice tennis courts, close to the (closed) campsite and near to the river.

A beach has been laid by the river and it seems that canoeing and kayaking are popular in summer.

The village was quite lively, even at this time of year, and is very popular with Brits, who outnumbered the French. I imagine that many have homes here.

Aubeterre has a castle, a lovely square shaded by lime trees, and two remarkable churches. The church of St Jacques, a stage on the route to Compostela, has a beautifully ornate doorway, and there are very interesting explanations of the significance of the carvings.
View attachment 827834

The church of St John is the largest subterranean Church in Europe. It is hewn out of the rock below the castle, and contains sarcophagi which are thought to pre-date Christianity.

The church was expanded by Christians returning from the crusades and was used as a repository for relics brought back from the Holy Land. Pilgrims on the road to Compostela would visit them because they believed they offered protection.
View attachment 827850View attachment 827852View attachment 827853
Graham was fascinated by the gargantuan physical task of building such a place, but for me, there were so many unanswered questions about who all these people were and why they had done it.

We are spending a last night at Bourdeilles, downstream from you on the Dronne. Home tomorrow PM in the Charente Maritime. Thank you for an interesting thread and thoughts of places to visit in future.

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[Wanders from Glos]

Aubeterre looks well worth a visit. It’s now on our list, thanks for the tip.

 

[bellabee]

Aubeterre looks well worth a visit. It’s now on our list, thanks for the tip.

I think you'll like it. When you've been there, maybe you could give us your historian's take on it.
I'm having a problem getting my head round how these places can be interpreted when documentary evidence is scant, or non-existent.
They did say that the bones had been recovered from the necropolis in order to identify where they came from.
It was the same when we went to Brantôme Abbey Caves, last year. It was a matter of 'This is what we think it means, but we're not really sure.'
I suppose that our understanding of history is constantly changing.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I think you'll like it. When you've been there, maybe you could give us your historian's take on it.
I'm having a problem getting my head round how these places can be interpreted when documentary evidence is scant, or non-existent.
They did say that the bones had been recovered from the necropolis in order to identify where they came from.
It was the same when we went to Brantôme Abbey Caves, last year. It was a matter of 'This is what we think it means, but we're not really sure.'
I suppose that our understanding of history is constantly changing.

The answer is yes to both .

Without documentary evidence a lot will be conjecture allbeit drawn from useful sources, such as scientific data etc. A lot of early history is drawn from oral tradition because there was less writing. Then at a later point those histories were written down, a good example is Homer. Many argue the first examples of writing in Aticca were 300 years after Homer. Or in another example Suetonius’s histories of the Roman Emporers were written 200 years later, yet much of what is understood about them is derives frm him. Anyway wrong forum for this stuff.

 

[bellabee]

From Aubeterre we went to the aire at Château Larcher, which has the remains of an old castle, walls and a church, and a 13th century lantern of the dead.

The village is very quaint and there are lots of marked walking and cycling routes.

We managed to have a walk around without getting wet, but in good weather it must make a very pleasant stop. Also very good for dog exercising.

The aire is next to the football pitches - €7 incl EHU. A good-value stop, but it's not open in winter.

Yesterday, we had the worst weather of our trip, so far. We came to Saumur CCP aire, where we will spend two nights. Some of the pitches are very muddy after last night's torrential rain, but ours is OK, so far.

 

[bellabee]

🌧🌧🌧

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[Blisteringblue]

We've criss crossed, we chose to stay at Villebernier on Tuesday because of the rain, I'd read Saumur got muddy. Currently in the Dordogne at Carsac-Aillac. Rain eased today but heading down to the coast now for the sun. Portiranges as mentioned into early next week.

 

[Lenny HB]

staying in a camping car park Les Eyziers-de-tayac-sureil.

Oh no not another one gone down the tubes, last October it was still run by Municipality and was €5.

 

[Ziggy123]

Oh no not another one gone down the tubes, last October it was still run by Municipality and was €5.

It looks like they all are going that way. Since we moved this side of France loads are coming up on the app. The east side down were very limited

 

[Ziggy123]

I give you massive credit for a sunny disposition in this weather. We are not too far from you at Bourdeilles but have decided to go home tomorrow. It is only a couple of hours drive. Bonne Voyage!

The sun is back out now! We are thinking of going to Bourdeilles today, is it nice there for walking? It looks it! It's that or follow the Dordogne river to Bergerac and head up to Potiers from there. I'm more drawn to Bourdeilles though.
Safe trip home! I've just booked tunnel for next Sunday so we have 8 days to get there...more route planning!

 

[varaizian]

The sun is back out now! We are thinking of going to Bourdeilles today, is it nice there for walking? It looks it! It's that or follow the Dordogne river to Bergerac and head up to Potiers from there. I'm more drawn to Bourdeilles though.
Safe trip home! I've just booked tunnel for next Sunday so we have 8 days to get there...more route planning!

Bourdeilles at this time of year is very quiet. You can walk up into town not far away and the chateau is there but we use it as a first out and last back stop quite often so don't pay much attention. The Dronne is running quite fast now, very different from when we were there in June. The fascinating bit is looking at the stone walls that mark the edges of a one-time river bed and look at how they are undercut and eroded. Makes you feel very insignificant. Enjoy your week and start planning for next year!

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