Not another fridge not working on gas thread

[monzer]

Which model of Electrolux 3 x way fridge is it , there should be a label on or inside the fridge with a RMxxxx model number on it.

Popped out to have a look at a derelict Soviet submarine demagnefication plant

I'll check when back. Had quite a lot of food in it so I threw it on to battery. Hope the van still starts when I get back.

 

[Northernraider]

You should be able to access the burner from the lower vent

 

[monzer]

Which model of Electrolux 3 x way fridge is it , there should be a label on or inside the fridge with a RMxxxx model number on it.

 

[monzer]

You should be able to access the burner from the lower vent

Its just a bit to fiddly. My fat fingers can't get the housing off.

 

[monzer]

You should be able to access the burner from the lower vent

Its just a bit to fiddly. My fat fingers can't get the housing off.

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[GeoffnDee]

You could try checking the wires going to the re-igniter control are tight (,the unit that supplies the spark for gas ignition ) , the violet wire should be a 12v power supply (when selected ) and black wire the earth (if you are able to see and get to it). The 12v connections on the rear of the fridge could also be worth checking for tightness at its terminals.

 

[monzer]

Got in to the burner eventually. This little wire with a hoop on the end has popped out!

Should it be there? And if it should does it need to fit in a certain place as I'll only be able to pop it back up and put the burner unit back in place to hold it.

 

[JockandRita]

Got in to the burner eventually. This little wire with a hoop on the end has popped out!

View attachment 657553


Should it be there? And if it should does it need to fit in a certain place as I'll only be able to pop it back up and put the burner unit back in place to hold it.

There should be a twisted baffle on the end of that wire hook, which is secured to a tiny hole at the top of the flue. The baffle encourages efficient exit flow of the fumes.
It has been a feature on both my F/F units.
Unfortunately, your photo clearly indicates a severe lack of servicing in the past.

Jock.

 

[monzer]

There should be a twisted baffle on the end of that wire hook, which is secured to a tiny hole at the top of the flue. The baffle encourages efficient exit flow of the fumes.
It has been a feature on both my F/F units.
Unfortunately, your photo clearly indicates a severe lack of servicing in the past.

Jock.

Cheers. I thought maybe someone had used the wire down the flue trick and lost it in there. Yes it's not looking in great condition.

 

[GeoffnDee]

The twisted baffle must have been fitted upside down as the hook should be hooked over the top of the heating tube ,or through a hole at the top to enable it to be moved up and down from the top of the tube when cleaning is required.

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[monzer]

I gave it a other clean out and put it all back together and still not clicking.

I presume the fitting with the blue insulated sleeve is the live feed to igniter? It doesn't seem to want to come out so couldn't check if there was current there with meter.

Could there be a fuse blown somewhere that is stopping the ignitor clicking?

 

[GeoffnDee]

Have you put the baffle the correct way up otherwise it could be touching the igniter electrode stopping it working

 

[monzer]

Have you put the baffle the correct way up otherwise it could be touching the igniter electrode stopping it working

I can't get it out. There's not enough space below and can't get anything hooked on to pull it out the top.

 

[GeoffnDee]

Could you remove the heater tube from the burner again and see if sparking happens with the baffle wire clear of the igniter (may be best to turn the gas off when trying this) The baffle would normally be removed through the top of the tube , are you able to push it from the bottom upwards ?

 

[monzer]

Could you remove the heater tube from the burner again and see if sparking happens with the baffle wire clear of the igniter (may be best to turn the gas off when trying this) The baffle would normally be removed through the top of the tube , are you able to push it from the bottom upwards ?

It's quite away up to the top of the tube but I could try and fish a bit of wire down and try and hook it to pull up.

But no sign of the other end of that wire with the loop on the end at the top?? so there would be nothing to keep the baffle in place. Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

Also, if I do what you suggest and take it apart again will I see a spark there if I am not holding in the button? Or it is always sparking but it only lets gas through when the button is pressed?

You can tell I'm struggling here

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[GeoffnDee]

If you want to check for 12v getting to the reigniter the 12v connections on the rear of the fridge (there should be four)are white = DC heater ground , Red = DC heater feed , Black = automatic ground , Violet = automatic ignition feed As you have been running the fridge on battery the Dc heater side of things must be ok , so if there is no power at the automatic ignition connections check for a fuse at your EBL or close to either the starter or leisure battery positive terminals
There is nothing to keep the baffle from falling downwards because it is upside down (the hook when at the top and hooked in a hole or over the top of the tube stops it dropping down).
If you press the start button you should hear it clicking if the igniter works having moved the baffle away from it ,If that is the problem ,it should spark for a short time and then switch off if there is no gas supply and therefor no flame for it to sense. (it does not spark all the time , it sparks until the gas is lit ,or if it needs re-lighting)

 

[jockaneezer]

The knackered insulation on the black ignitor cable with the blue sheath might be short circuiting the spark to the body of the burner and not further along to where the flame should be ?

 

[monzer]

The knackered insulation on the black ignitor cable with the blue sheath might be short circuiting the spark to the body of the burner and not further along to where the flame should be ?

I was worried about that but it doesn't seem to be bad enough to create a short.

 

[monzer]

I've pulled a fuse out of the ebl and then couldn't remember where I took it out from

It was definitely Reserve 3 or 4 (25A) I'm pretty sure it was 3 so have stuck it back in there. Anyone know what those fuses are likely to be for?

 

[suavecarve]

Only crossed in from Latvia a few days ago but so far plenty decent places to stop. Plenty on P4N etc I'm right at the harbour at the moment at 9 euros a night but just because I wanted to be near to the maritime festival that is on.

No many aire type places with facilities so I reckon I'll need the odd night in a campsite to fill + empty.

Love it up this way though, what a city Tallinn is.

We have a wife carrying member on here.
Northern Boy

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[monzer]

We have a wife carrying member on here.
Northern Boy

Yup he's already helped me out greatly with places to visit etc

 

[GeoffnDee]

On page 4 in the Manuals for Motor home stuff section of Resources (top blue line) there is a manual for the EBL99 with a wiring diagram that may help in deciding fuse locations (The diagram is not easy to read though).

 

[monzer]

On page 4 in the Manuals for Motor home stuff section of Resources (top blue line) there is a manual for the EBL99 with a wiring diagram that may help in deciding fuse locations (The diagram is not easy to read though).

Cheers but that's way over my head. If I've got it in the wrong one I'm sure I'll find an appliance not working soon enough.

 

[JockandRita]

The twisted baffle must have been fitted upside down as the hook should be hooked over the top of the heating tube ,or through a hole at the top to enable it to be moved up and down from the top of the tube when cleaning is required.

But no sign of the other end of that wire with the loop on the end at the top?? so there would be nothing to keep the baffle in place. Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

There is nothing to keep the baffle from falling downwards because it is upside down (the hook when at the top and hooked in a hole or over the top of the tube stops it dropping down).

There appears to be some confusion over the wire sticking out from the base of the flue. The u bend loop is actually the base of the wire, where the baffle hangs onto. The upper part of the wire is a totally different shape, and is spring tensioned, when fitted correctly to the tiny hole at the top of the flue
Been there and done that several times during routine servicing. The wire is not upside down, however, it does appear to be stuck and too far down the flue, possibly due to it being spring tensioned.

monzer. If you look at the diagram of the EBL you posted, Kompressor AES is the fridge/freezer fuse, and it appears to be 20A. Have you checked it out with a meter?

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[monzer]

Cheers JockandRita I'll need to see if I can fish the the end of that wire out the top tomorrow.

Regarding that fuse - it's intact but would that not be the mains power supply to the fridge rather that the 12v supply to ignitor? Fridge is working fine on mains.

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[mitzimad]

you need to get that baffle out try droppping a wire from the top and pulling it up

 

[JockandRita]

Regarding that fuse - it's intact but would that not be the mains power supply to the fridge rather that the 12v supply to ignitor? Fridge is working fine on mains.

Quite possibly monzer, but it is quite some time since I last looked at an EBL.

When removing fuses, did you check them out for continuity, using a voltmeter? Often they can look okay, but only show up as being defective when tested with a meter.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[monzer]

Quite possibly monzer, but it is quite some time since I last looked at an EBL.

When removing fuses, did you check them out for continuity, using a voltmeter? Often they can look okay, but only show up as being defective when tested with a meter.

Cheers,

Jock.

Yeah checked them with a meter

 

[JockandRita]

monzer. I have translated all the other fuse slots, and not one of them indicates any connection to the F/F.
First in from the left is heating, and second in is for the outside light and step, which remain live when the 12v is isolated at the panel.

The only fuse I can see for the F/F is the one identified earlier.

When away from the MH, and the EHU fails, the F/F will automatically switch over to gas, and ignite. This means it must have a permanent live whilst the panel is still on..............just like the step and outside light do.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Northernraider]

Yep that wire should be at the top ...that's probably what's causing your problems ...might be a pita getting it out but while you're at it give the flu a good clean out

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