No idea what’s going on ?

Whatever flattened them does not appear to have registered on the shunt, which has only moved from -22.0Ah to -22.1Ah whilst the voltage has dropped very significantly. Perhaps some pictures of your shunt and battery wiring would help.
Here is a picture of my battery wiring and also a sample diagram .Hope it makes sense .Thank you
 

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Th
That's crazy, hope you haven't pulled all your hair out. :LOL:

Wondering if you have a duff battery, I would seperate the batteries leave one connected in circuit and see what happens if all OK after a few days swap the batteries over.
Hardly any hair left so that’s not a problem 😂 that’s a good thought and I will try that . Would would one duff battery maybe beat up the other one ?
 
I’m no expert but, are you sure that the batteries are being properly charged?.

Your graphics in post #12 show that the charging voltage is 14.06V when on EHU.
Your CBE520 has settings for gel/agm/wet batteries, is the CBE520 set to the ‘gel’ position which should give a float voltage of 14.4V for 8 hours.


A gel battery voltage of less than 12 volts means that the battery is flat. Your charger is 20A maximum, so charging 220Ah is going to take all day on EHU.
Andrew

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Here is a picture of my battery wiring and also a sample diagram .Hope it makes sense .Thank you
That all looks good, can I join your “no idea what is going on” club please. I suspect it supports the duff battery diagnosis.
 
That all looks good, can I join your “no idea what is going on” club please. I suspect it supports the duff battery diagnosis.
I tend to agree .

I’m back on a site EHU now and batteries are up to 100% and float charging at around 14.4 v.
My plan is to make it home from Spain in a few weeks time by not being off grid for too long at a time then focus on getting to the bottom of this issue.
My first job will be test the batteries one at a time with my trusty 5A headlamp bulb set up .

Thanks for all your advice to date
 
as lennie said dis one and see how it performs

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Check the batteries regularly while on EHU make sure they are not getting hot in case one is duff.
Exploding batteries are not plesent.
Good call, if one battery is hotter than the other while in absorb at 14,4v, the hot one is the lemon, and you can isolate that one out.
 
Please let us know when you get to the bottom of it.
So I’m getting closer to solving the problem .
I did the test as you suggested I.e one battery at a time . Having used just 17 amps in first battery the voltage fell off a cliff from 12.38v to 10.36 in a matter of 4 minutes .
So trying the second battery on its own I abandoned the test at 78% usage having used 25 Amps and voltage remained at 12.4v . Subject to a more extensive drop test it would seem that I have one duff battery ( bought in Nov21) which has in fact dragged the other one down.
My next move is to get home then contact batterymega store to put a warranty claim in .

Question is would the one duff battery have caused permanent low voltage damage to the seemingly ok battery do you think, I.e should I claim for 2 brand new batteries and not just the one ?

Thanks for all your help everyone.
 
I was right.:Grin:

The duff battery will pull the voltage down it shouldn't have any detrimental effect on the other battery but no harm in trying for a pair.

I don't think the Victron's are a popular choice due to price so may have been sitting on the shelf a long time. With the replacements, I would insist on knowing the date of manufacture.
 
Lenny ,
Just as a matter of interest what 110ah batteries would you install ?
 
Lenny ,
Just as a matter of interest what 110ah batteries would you install ?
For Gels, Exide or Sonnenschine both made by Sonnenschine.

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I did the test as you suggested I.e one battery at a time . Having used just 17 amps in first battery the voltage fell off a cliff from 12.38v to 10.36 in a matter of 4 minutes .
Notice that 10.38V is about 5/6 of the first reading, 12.38V. To me that suggests that one of the six cells in the battery has shorted.
 
The diagram of the shunt wiring - is that correct?

Shouldn't all the negative inputs (batteries and solar) be on one side of the shunt and the negative output from the shunt on the other. They look mixed up to me.
 
The diagram of the shunt wiring - is that correct?

Shouldn't all the negative inputs (batteries and solar) be on one side of the shunt and the negative output from the shunt on the other. They look mixed up to me.
Looked ok to me with just a single wire going from the shunt to the batteries. The diagrammatic loop in the negative wire from the charger to the shunt indicates that it is not joined to the wire it crosses and the other pictures show this too.
 
Looked ok to me with just a single wire going from the shunt to the batteries. The diagrammatic loop in the negative wire from the charger to the shunt indicates that it is not joined to the wire it crosses and the other pictures show this too.
Yes that right there is only one single black going to the batteries and two ( solar and systems ) going to the other side .
 

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