No hot water (1 Viewer)

[Motohome]

Hi.. Another question… Just bought a Hymer Exsis I on a 15 plate .. It has a Truma boiler system and I thought before we go off on our first trip away for a couple of days I thought I’d test the hot water. On turning on the hot tap, it spurts and splutters for about 15 seconds before there’s a steady stream of water but no matter how long I wait, it ultimately goes ever so slightly tepid but doesn’t get any warmer than that. If I turn the tap off and leave it for even just a minute before turning it back on, it spurts and splutters again, spraying water about before again settling down to a steady stream but again, the slightest of slightly tepid to the touch.
The warm air heating side of things works fine, there’s plenty of gas and the control is turned fully up to 5 … We’ve had to knock our first trip on the head until I get this sorted… If anyone can offer advice please, that would be great

 

[Nickliv]

Your frost drain isn't open is it?

 

[Figaro]

Any lights or messages, can you feel warm exhaust gases blown from the flue ?

 

[Motohome]

Your frost drain isn't open is it?

Cheers but no

 

[Motohome]

Your frost drain isn't open is it?

Cheers but no

Any lights or messages, can you feel warm exhaust gases blown from the flue ?

Just the green light on the controller.. Yeah, there’s heat coming from the flue.. Tbh I think we might have underestimated how long it takes to get the water up to temperature. Going to give it another try tomorrow and leave it for some time before turning the tap on

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[Riverbankannie]

What sort of controls do you have. On our 2015 plate van with a Truma, the controls are rotary and the setting 1-5 controls the hot air side not the hot water.

 

[Riverbankannie]

 

[Riverbankannie]

As you draw from the hot system, the boiler draws in cold from the tank making it cooler and cooler. It does need time and power to come up to temperature.
Don’t let it stop you having a trip away. You can always boil a kettle on the hob!

 

[Lenny HB]

Cheers but no

Just the green light on the controller.. Yeah, there’s heat coming from the flue.. Tbh I think we might have underestimated how long it takes to get the water up to temperature. Going to give it another try tomorrow and leave it for some time before turning the tap on

About 40 min to get to 60° (Hot setting) on gas, a lot longer on electric, if heating and hot water on about an hour, just the heating on about 1½ hours.

Don't bother using the Eco 40° setting as it has a very large hysteris, it heats to 40"° but does not turn back on until water temp has dropped to 27°.

 

[Mzracer]

Hi.. Another question… Just bought a Hymer Exsis I on a 15 plate .. It has a Truma boiler system and I thought before we go off on our first trip away for a couple of days I thought I’d test the hot water. On turning on the hot tap, it spurts and splutters for about 15 seconds before there’s a steady stream of water but no matter how long I wait, it ultimately goes ever so slightly tepid but doesn’t get any warmer than that. If I turn the tap off and leave it for even just a minute before turning it back on, it spurts and splutters again, spraying water about before again settling down to a steady stream but again, the slightest of slightly tepid to the touch.
The warm air heating side of things works fine, there’s plenty of gas and the control is turned fully up to 5 … We’ve had to knock our first trip on the head until I get this sorted… If anyone can offer advice please, that would be great

The hot water systems seem to need purging through to get air out of it, this can be done without the heating turned on. This is especially so if the frost valve has opened (pretty well all do through the winter)

None of my 3 Truma systems have worked effectively on the electric only setting, the clue is in the measly power rating of 900W and 1800W, I have a feeling the gas heating is equivalent to around 5.5Kw.

The gas heating and water heating work really well. My money is on an air lock type of thing.

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[Motohome]

What sort of controls do you have. On our 2015 plate van with a Truma, the controls are rotary and the setting 1-5 controls the hot air side not the hot water.

Yeah, we’re starting to get our heads round it (I think) .. It’s the flames and wavy lines on the outer side of the dial that were still trying to work out.. The fella that did our hab check has been really helpful on the phone today… I’ll see if I can put an image of the control on here.. I think that’s worked.. We’re currently sitting in the van on our driveway with the dial at the 4 o’clock position (flame only symbol). Waiting for half an hour or so to see if we end up with hot water (there’s warm air) .. It’s the other settings we need to get our heads around ie 60deg wiggly lines, 40deg wiggly lines and 60deg wiggly lines with flame

 

[Motohome]

The hot water systems seem to need purging through to get air out of it, this can be done without the heating turned on. This is especially so if the frost valve has opened (pretty well all do through the winter)

None of my 3 Truma systems have worked effectively on the electric only setting, the clue is in the measly power rating of 900W and 1800W, I have a feeling the gas heating is equivalent to around 5.5Kw.

The gas heating and water heating work really well. My money is on an air lock type of thing.

Thanks … my mate has just sent me a video on draining and re filling the system..Aldo the habitation check fella advised me to replace the pump with a more efficient Reich one

 

[Mike123]

On my Truma hot water system, if the hot water has been switched on using electric with not water in the boiler it will switch off.

Fix I found on YouTube is to isolate the boiler via the trip switch, find the cable which has the element and disconnect via connector block. Re connect, make sure filled with water and switch on power via trip switch. It worked for me.

As for bleeding the system re water, turn on taps on hot water setting and turn to cold.

Hope this helps

 

[Motohome]

View attachment 889630

Looks like being on just the flame (L) position means we won’t be getting hot water then

 

[Mzracer]

Thanks … my mate has just sent me a video on draining and re filling the system..Aldo the habitation check fella advised me to replace the pump with a more efficient Reich one

I bet the pump is as good as gold, does it pump well on cold? If so it will pump just the same on hot, that is the way my Truma works.

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[Motohome]

Bo

I bet the pump is as good as gold, does it pump well on cold? If so it will pump just the same on hot, that is the way my Truma

It spits and pops on both hot and cold

 

[Motohome]

Looks like being on just the flame (L) position means we won’t be getting hot water then

Just tried the hot water after an hour with the dial at position L (flame only) .. Perfect hot water coming from the tap.... What I don’t get now is, from the diagram it says ‘heating without hot water’

 

[Lenny HB]

Just tried the hot water after an hour with the dial at position L (flame only) .. Perfect hot water coming from the tap.... What I don’t get now is, from the diagram it says ‘heating without hot water’

When the heating is on you get a by product of hot water it is not possible to have heating on without getting hot water it just takes a lot longer for the water to get hot.
Truma's description is not good.

 

[dalspa]

With the tap spluttering for a short time, this could be air getting into the system. Is your pump a Reich submersible in the tank? If so it will have a built in non return valve which is not seating properly allowing water to run back into the tank. An easy remedy is to fit an in-line non return valve just above the pump. The pipe will need shortening by the fitted length of the valve so that the pump still stands upright on the bottom of the tank as per its original position. Cost of a non return valve and a couple of jubilee clips will be about £10, considerably cheaper than a new pump.
I always remove my pump and in-line valve (I had similar problem some years ago) each Autumn to enable all water to drain back into the tank to prevent frost damage - only takes a few minutes to remove and refit.

 

[Motohome]

With the tap spluttering for a short time, this could be air getting into the system. Is your pump a Reich submersible in the tank? If so it will have a built in non return valve which is not seating properly allowing water to run back into the tank. An easy remedy is to fit an in-line non return valve just above the pump. The pipe will need shortening by the fitted length of the valve so that the pump still stands upright on the bottom of the tank as per its original position. Cost of a non return valve and a couple of jubilee clips will be about £10, considerably cheaper than a new pump.
I always remove my pump and in-line valve (I had similar problem some years ago) each Autumn to enable all water to drain back into the tank to prevent frost damage - only takes a few minutes to remove and refit.

Cheers.. no, it’s some other make with 14 L/min.. I’ve been advised to replace it with a Reich Tandem (19L/min).. I’ll take that advice on board though.. Ta

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[Motohome]

Hi everyone… thanks for all the advice. I thought I would stick an update on here as I’ve managed to sort it. Today I received the new pump (Reich Tandem) and fitted it.
I drained the water out of the frost protection valve and it was noticeable how little water came out, just a dribble really. I then re filled the system, letting the water out of the taps until it ran steady with really good pressure. I turned the control to 60deg hot water only and heard the boiler fire up. Then waited around 45mins until the boiler stopped.
Turning on the taps, the water came out with good steady pressure and was piping hot. Also, the flush for the toilet was working properly, as with the old pump there wasn’t enough pressure to push the water around the bowl, it just piddled out.
So thanks again for all your input, it is greatly appreciated.