Newly acquired 2002 Flair 7100i Iveco
- Thread starter oldieish
- Start date
In need of some unobtanium. Remis pleated window blinds/flyscreen catches. Disappeared. All that remains is the attachment bracket. Searched the internet to no avail, can anyone advise?
- Dec 31, 2010
- 2,967
- 7,003
- Funster No
- 14,797
- MH
- Frankia Platin i7900
- Exp
- Since 2010
Do you not know somebody with a 3d printer easy job if you do.
Good idea I'll enquire. How is the template generated for the printer without a model to copy?
It looks like you've got a good one on the second photo, why can't you rob that to use a template?
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- Dec 31, 2010
- 2,967
- 7,003
- Funster No
- 14,797
- MH
- Frankia Platin i7900
- Exp
- Since 2010
Yeah that was my thinking to, if not take the measurements and anyone with a 3d printer will be able to generate a model quite easily its not a complexed part.
Doh! Thank you, sometimes the obvious isn't. For me quite often the case, so expect more to follow. Now to find a 3D printer.
Or you could try here
Remis Blinds | Leisureshopdirect
Remis blinds for use with all caravans, statics and motor homes (with no internal footwell). Remis blinds spares, Remis blind parts, Remis cab blinds. from Leisureshopdirect
www.leisureshopdirect.com
Thank you for the link. I subsequently contacted Leisureworld who told me the required design is no longer officially available.
Firstly: Can anyone direct me to replacement windscreen wiper blades please. They need to fit an 11 mm arm. This is larger than a car fitting, as I have just discovered when perplexedly attempting to force my newly acquired blades onto the arm. The present blades are Bosch with a B1 fitting.
Secondly: At present I have a FanTastic Vent above the kitchen. Unfortunately the wind-up handle seems to be made from chocolate (I have bought two, both lasted one rotation). So I'm considering a Maxxair MaxxFan. 'tinternet reviews suggest they are good units. Can any one confirm this? As the FanTastic Vent has a 12v supply I'm assuming I can use that to power the Maxxair. Now the big question: DIY or Approved Workshop?
Secondly: At present I have a FanTastic Vent above the kitchen. Unfortunately the wind-up handle seems to be made from chocolate (I have bought two, both lasted one rotation). So I'm considering a Maxxair MaxxFan. 'tinternet reviews suggest they are good units. Can any one confirm this? As the FanTastic Vent has a 12v supply I'm assuming I can use that to power the Maxxair. Now the big question: DIY or Approved Workshop?
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sallylillian
LIFE MEMBER
Your experience with Fantastic Vents is bizarre. I have had 6 of these on 3 different vans over the last 10 years and, touch wood, have never had one incident. I have found them reliable and of excellent performance. The latest versions with increased setting options are brilliant. The rain sensor provides a good security addition and makes the Heki attempt at this look Micky Mouse.
I wish you better luck with the poorer quality Maxxair. However I do think that perhaps you need to review your use as that may be the common denominator.
I wish you better luck with the poorer quality Maxxair. However I do think that perhaps you need to review your use as that may be the common denominator.
Hellski
Free Member
Not sure of the required length but I recently fitted the following wiper blades to my N+B Arto; please do check that they meet your own requirements
Bosch AR70N
My experience of the Maxxair is very different to Sallylillian. The first job I did having acquired my Arto was to remove the inferior Fantastic Vent
Personally, I much prefer the option of being able to have the vent open even when raining, 10 speed ultra quiet fan that can be set to 20% at night with the roof vent open within the bedroom area, generating a cooling breeze in the hot European heat and quiet enough to sleep. Twin metal support which enables you to leave open when travelling and doesn't rattle when windy.
I fitted my own Maxxair and don't see any reason why any competent person wouldn't be able to. Like anything, it's all down to the preparation specifically removing any old sealant and having a clean surface to reapply. The Maxxair will utilise the same 12v supply.
Hurrah, windscreen wipers obtained and fitted. Local HGV garage/Approved Engineer (Lancing Commercial) let me take a set on a trust basis. Back tomorrow to pay for them. Nothing beats personal face-to-face service.
Apropos the FanTastic Vent. The problem is that it will only work if the lid has lifted and activated the sensor. The old version handle (metal) has disappeared and is no longer available. Replacements are plastic and to my experience about as affective as a chocolate fire-guard. So either: (a) find a way to get the present fan working (preferred), or, (b) replace. In which case, first principles, with what.
Apropos the FanTastic Vent. The problem is that it will only work if the lid has lifted and activated the sensor. The old version handle (metal) has disappeared and is no longer available. Replacements are plastic and to my experience about as affective as a chocolate fire-guard. So either: (a) find a way to get the present fan working (preferred), or, (b) replace. In which case, first principles, with what.
fesuvious
Free Member
Power;
Before considering a remap do a proper service and throw a load of redex in the tank. Change the gearbox and diff oil too.
The little combination of this lot can easily equate to 5-10% off where it should be.
Oh, and if you suspect it's been driven by Miss Daisy up to now don't be shy of doing a m'way junc or two a gear or two lower than you otherwise would be. Let the engine de-coke.
Before considering a remap do a proper service and throw a load of redex in the tank. Change the gearbox and diff oil too.
The little combination of this lot can easily equate to 5-10% off where it should be.
Oh, and if you suspect it's been driven by Miss Daisy up to now don't be shy of doing a m'way junc or two a gear or two lower than you otherwise would be. Let the engine de-coke.
fesuvious
Free Member
And check all your jubilee clips on intake/boost hoses.
Many an engine 'down on power' has failed to have small boost leak found!
Many an engine 'down on power' has failed to have small boost leak found!
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MoT tomorrow, the van has barely moved since its last one. Getting it ready for an early start from storage. Grinding sound when the steering wheel is turned (on both sides, forwards and reverse) fine when driving in a straight line. Any suggestions please. Attached pictures, is it steering related? The cap has a ZF logo. As far as I can tell there is no measurable oil in the reservoir. Which oil is required please.
in the absence of a recommendation I would put Atf in it.
Good luck with your flair had ours over 20 years love it ,had 5th gear altered and engine power sorted (speed hawk)
Probably overfilled the reservoir this morning; however, noise has stopped and MoT passed.
MoT pass at a garage name of https://www.southcoastminis.co.uk near to Ford railway station. Bit of a squeeze to get the van into the yard but a nice set-up and people. Might be of some use to those with vans around the 8 metre/6 ton mark.
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Wiring for compressor fridge, advice please.
Removed deceased Electrolux RM6505 absorption fridge/freezer. Insulated the void, unfortunately not until after the big freeze, I'll be checking the state of the taps and seals later. Will be installing a compressor fridge. Pictures show the wiring in the space. Lower right are the wires to the old fridge. On the left there is a feed to the external retracting step (vehicle or habitation battery?) and a supply to lighting. Can I use any of these to provide power for the new fridge. I'm thinking of installing an external (to the void) switch above the existing light switches.
Removed deceased Electrolux RM6505 absorption fridge/freezer. Insulated the void, unfortunately not until after the big freeze, I'll be checking the state of the taps and seals later. Will be installing a compressor fridge. Pictures show the wiring in the space. Lower right are the wires to the old fridge. On the left there is a feed to the external retracting step (vehicle or habitation battery?) and a supply to lighting. Can I use any of these to provide power for the new fridge. I'm thinking of installing an external (to the void) switch above the existing light switches.
Bit of a novice in motor-home electrics so please excuse my questions. Does the 12v feed need to be wired directly to the leisure battery? If the lights are on the 12v circuit (and presumably any 12v plug outlet which could be used if one is nearby) isn't it also wired to the battery?
May have found a solution to my question. Poking around where the various electrical gubbins are located I found the main relay box (who would have thought!). It’s a Kontrol-und-Verteilungsmodul M2005-2, with two spare auxiliary bays at 15A and 10A. Anyone had experience with these?
Is the compressor fridge you are getting able to run on 12v DC or is it a domestic one running on240v AC? If the former there are probably quite thick cables from the leisure battery that would have supplied the 3 way. Probably with a 20A fuse on your EBL or equivalent. If 230v AC you will need an inverter to run it from the leisure battery if you want to use it off hook up.
I’m thinking of 12v DC at present (although going the whole hog with lithium and an inverter is, expensively, appealing).
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Yes, you save money buying the AC version and then splash more than that on a multiples/ inverter
. I'm still keeping my 3 way until it finally goes pop but am thinking along similar lines to you.Think I may have a solution to whither power for a 12v compressor fridge, although if I'm on the wrong path please advise.
Attached pictures show:
1) old 3-way fridge void (new fridge space) with 12v wires highlighted, this is permanently live with a 20A fuse at the EDB, the middle wire is the feed to the engine alternator and will not be used;
2) EDB with 20A fuse on live feed;
3) EDB with live feed and neutral terminals circled;
4) comparative sizes of two sets of wires, one feeds the retractable step (25A fuse) the other is the proposed fridge feed (20A fuse at present), both are permanent live and are the same diameter.
Attached pictures show:
1) old 3-way fridge void (new fridge space) with 12v wires highlighted, this is permanently live with a 20A fuse at the EDB, the middle wire is the feed to the engine alternator and will not be used;
2) EDB with 20A fuse on live feed;
3) EDB with live feed and neutral terminals circled;
4) comparative sizes of two sets of wires, one feeds the retractable step (25A fuse) the other is the proposed fridge feed (20A fuse at present), both are permanent live and are the same diameter.
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Sounds like you have found the right feed for the fridge. I expect that 20A will be plenty, the 3 way in my Hymer takes about 14A when on.
Yesterday I part filled the fresh water tank with a view to see what damage may have occurred during the winter freeze. I had failed to drain the water before Jack Frost came a'calling - potential merde! Taps open, pump running, boiler filling, all seemed fine. Disaster! Vasty puddle seeping from around the waste tank. Quickly turn off pump and inspect as best I can. How can this be, so well insulated and never with much water inside. The picture will reveal all. Vaunted Teutonic Engineering had attached (or not) a waste feed pipe that had never been long enough to reach the tank, nor even sit inside the spigot. Held in place with a lose rubber bandage and jubilee clip. That explains the persistent presence of damp and water stains around that area. Hopefully, after I've found a way of securing a fully fitted waste into a rigid pipe line, that will cure that leak.
However I do have an incontinent Shurflo pump in need of attention. Anything worthwhile replacing at the same time as I fit a new pump?
However I do have an incontinent Shurflo pump in need of attention. Anything worthwhile replacing at the same time as I fit a new pump?
It brings home the fact that most motorhomes have a very hard life, sat out all year, whatever the weather.
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