Need new hab batteries and charger.

[GeoffnDee]

I would think that the on/off switch is faulty or its connections loose to cause it to flash as it is , it should remain on when switched on and not flash as it is. (you may be able to get this fixed )
The only lights that may sometimes flash are the ones that indicate faults with the charger system and these are at the other end to the on/off switch on the bottom of the charger .

 

[autorouter]

The van charger has been switched off for last 24 hours, but the display above the door is now staying on, I can also turn lights and water pump on but as soon as I do the voltage on the display drops to 12.4 which I confirmed by using the multimeter on the battery. Turning the van charger on (green light in on/off switch still flashing) does not appear stop it going down.

Even more confused now, both batteries were very low and nothing inside would switch on (also confirmed by the guy that came out) , second battery partially disconnected, other battery somehow manages to get itself back up to over 13v while charger OFF to the point where things inside work again, but putting them on, even for a couple of minutes starts to drain the battery.

If it drops to 12.4V and stays there, that might be OK. A standard lead-acid battery has a maximum resting voltage of about 12.6V. Other battery types like AGM can be a bit higher, up to about 12.8V. Also the voltage can drop under load, and recover when the load is removed.

If the van charger doesn't push the voltage back up to 13V or more then it looks like it's not working. Assuming it's not a blown fuse or a bad connection somewhere.

If a lead-acid battery has a voltage of 13.0V or more, there must be something charging it. Is the van charger switched off? Maybe it works intermittently. Do you have solar panels?

 

[Encantador]

Thank you.

The numbers above 13.03 and 11.9, were with everything turned off since yesterday.

I have just asked the guy who tested them yesterday and he is pretty sure the connected battery was 12.2. With the van charger turned off and possibly faulty that battery increased to 13.03 and reached the point where things would turn on and stay on at least for a while, not seen that for a few days.

Just remembered, I did run the engine on tickover for about an hour yesterday trying to check engine battery. With the hab charger turned off but with that ebay gadget connected, could that have charged the hab battery?

 

[autorouter]

Might be worth connecting that multi-stage charger (ANHTCZYX) to one of the batteries and giving it 24 hours on charge. It should go through all the stages I described, and end up at the float voltage. Then try it with the other battery. I'd keep the van charger off too, it might be causing problems. In fact, if there's a fuse on the output of the van charger (I'm sure there will be) you could remove that to be sure a charger fault isn't draining the batteries.

 

[Encantador]

Might be worth connecting that multi-stage charger (ANHTCZYX) to one of the batteries and giving it 24 hours on charge. It should go through all the stages I described, and end up at the float voltage. Then try it with the other battery. I'd keep the van charger off too, it might be causing problems. In fact, if there's a fuse on the output of the van charger (I'm sure there will be) you could remove that to be sure a charger fault isn't draining the batteries.

That charger I have has been on the second battery in 'Repair' mode for the last couple of hours. I will turn off the van charger and remove the fuse if I can find one. I assume the charger will give me some indication when it has finished doing its thing.

Can I then just connect it to the other battery that is still fully connected to the van to do the same or am i best to disconnect it in some way??

Thanks

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[GeoffnDee]

Just remembered, I did run the engine on tickover for about an hour yesterday trying to check engine battery. With the hab charger turned off but with that ebay gadget connected, could that have charged the hab battery?

Running the engine would normally charge both the starter and leisure battery ,as it seems to have done , If the ebay gadget is a battery master type of device it only allows power to go from the leisure battery into the starter battery not the other way.
The reason for your control system not working some of the time may be the PSU (Nordelectronica ? ) sensing a low battery voltage, shutting down , then turning back on when the batteries get a charge back in them.

 

[Encantador]

Running the engine would normally charge both the starter and leisure battery ,as it seems to have done , If the ebay gadget is a battery master type of device it only allows power to go from the leisure battery into the starter battery not the other way.
The reason for your control system not working some of the time may be the PSU (Nordelectronica ? ) sensing a low battery voltage, shutting down , then turning back on when the batteries get a charge back in them.

Thanks again.

It does appear that running the engine has charged it.

As for things not working, I assumed that when on hook-up, as it has been the whole time, that everything just worked direct from the mains.
I assume now that the sockets do as that is where the pulse charger gizmo is plugged in, but other things like the lights, display etc do not and they need the batteries to be working normally, for them to work.

 

[Just smiffy]

I suspect one of the batteries is goosed and that’s not helping….

 

[autorouter]

Can I then just connect it to the other battery that is still fully connected to the van to do the same or am i best to disconnect it in some way??

I'd be careful of using repair mode. I don't know the details of what this charger does in repair mode, but often these chargers put out a high voltage, sometimes over 16V. It's intended for a battery isolated on a bench. They normally recommend disconnecting the battery from any circuitry while using it. If leaving them in place, just disconnect the positive, no need to disconnect the negative.

Motorhome electrics can withstand 'absorption' voltages of up to 15V, but may give problems if it gets to 16V or more.

 

[autorouter]

As for things not working, I assumed that when on hook-up, as it has been the whole time, that everything just worked direct from the mains.

Usually a motorhome is set up so that all the essential functions work from a 12V battery. Lights, water pump, fridge control, heater/hot water control. Heating power usually comes from gas, controlled by 12V circuits. So if you are parked in a field, with no hookup or services, you can still stay warm, cook a meal and have a hot shower. The hookup keeps the battery topped up, and as a bonus the 240V sockets work too. Often there are 240V heating elements in the fridge, heater and hot water that can be used if on hookup, to save gas, but in theory the hookup isn't necessary.

The batteries are also charged from the alternator while the engine is running, and can be charged by solar panels if they are fitted. Some people rarely if ever connect to a hookup post.

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[Encantador]

Sorry to have to resurect this thread. The charger suggested by Lenny HB is out of stock until end of March at the earliest. The same company is selling the 10 Amp version on Amazon....

Amazon product ASIN B076MPT624
I am guessing that this is not suitable as mine says Max output 18 amps.

Can anyone point me in the direction of another suitable charger that is available now please.

Thanks

Steve

 

[GeoffnDee]

www.apuljackelectronics.co.uk may be able to supply a replacement for your Muvonics charger ,or repair the existing one .

 

[autorouter]

I am guessing that this is not suitable as mine says Max output 18 amps.

It's not critical, with lead-acid batteries the maximum charging current should be up to about 20A per battery if they are 100Ah batteries. so you could even go for a 40A version if you have two batteries. A 10A smart charger will fully charge the batteries eventually, it will just take much longer. I had to use a 5A smart charger when the main charger packed up, it worked fine. Usually if you have a hookup you are there for at least 12 hours anyway.