TOAD on Tour
Free Member
Thanks all, I have some large jubilee clips, so I‘ll leave the one in place and add another closer up the collar.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
It's been in my car radiator for the last five years since a found a hole in the radiator core.... No effect on the heater whatsoever.And be wondering why the heater is not working as well as it might because it's partially blocked with the crap from the barsleaks or other rad seal product. If you value your vehicle at all don't put that stuff in your rad and yes I speak from experience.
Many thanks for the really useful guidance. At the moment I have my fingers crossed that it was the jubilee clip that needed a half turn to nip it tight. So far nothing seems to be leaking. If it does it’s back to the drawing board and I’ll definitely start with the heat exchanger pipes. Although the dealer is covering any works with engine etc. I would prefer to not have it done if it’s not required! Thanks again, great infoDDuffs BEFORE you go the expense of removing the engine and going on a wild goose chase spend some time finding the ALDE heat exchanger and tracing the pipe work as I had EXACTLY the same problem with my previous Dethleffs motorhome that your having.
Over a period of time I would notice the coolant level had gone down slightly and it was a leek from the engine side of the heat exchanger. Below are a few pictures:
View attachment 502524
View attachment 502525
View attachment 502526
Many thanks!Disconnect the battery before poking around near those red cables - they are permanently live and if you short them with a screwdriver or spanner through you to the body you'll be in A&E
The garage I use said it’s quicker to remove the engine to replace the pipe at the back of the engine than do it from on top in an a class have seen mine with the front 5 feet in the airI hope you have deep pockets.
Removing the engine from below will be a long and labour intensive job and it won't come out of the top through the letterbox slit they laughingly call a bonnet. .
Personally, I would stick a couple of radleak type sealers in the radiator and see if that helped for such a minor leak.
Nothing to lose for the sake of a few quid.
Gives you time to think an appropriate singI can’t wait for tomorrow fingers crossed
50 minutes on tickover? Ooops I thought,that won’t do her any good,you might bugger up your exhaust filter thingy and end up in limp mode (oooh missus). Suggest give it a good thrashing on the way i.e.hold in low gear and high revs for a while while after she’s warmed up.So far so good, had it running for 50 mins on my drive from 11am today and everything is holding out.....proof in the pudding will be if it remains the same through tomorrow. We are driving to Woolacombe on Friday for the weekend which is approximately 100 miles, so that will also give it a good test!
An Italian tune up!50 minutes on tickover? Ooops I thought,that won’t do her any good,you might bugger up your exhaust filter thingy and end up in limp mode (oooh missus). Suggest give it a good thrashing on the way i.e.hold in low gear and high revs for a while while after she’s warmed up.
When the vehicle is in use a tiny leak will evaporate due to engine heat. When you park up the engine starts to cool and the cooling system draws in air through the breather built into the rad cap. The slight depression within the cooling system prevents a leak until it is almost cold and internal / external pressures are equal. Then you'll see the leak.Definitely not water from the air con, this leak is taking +24hrs to appear on my drive, which I am finding quite bizarre.....
Thanks Tony, that makes perfect sense . I’m crossing my figures that nipping the jubilee clip has resolved it....time will tell, it’s now 18hrs since I had the engine ticking over for 50 minutes......When the vehicle is in use a tiny leak will evaporate due to engine heat. When you park up the engine starts to cool and the cooling system draws in air through the breather built into the rad cap. The slight depression within the cooling system prevents a leak until it is almost cold and internal / external pressures are equal. Then you'll see the leak.
You need a block test done this is simple a device with a hand pump on it that you fit on the top of your coolant reservoir ,and you fill will a blue fluid ,run the engine while lumping air into the coolant ,if the blue fluid turns green or yellow it's head gasket issue.. ps check the cap on the reservoir they are known to fail, a new one is about 7 quid on ebayHi, the Coolant level seems to be dropping ever so slightly, but not enough that I’m 100% sure.....