Looking to buy a motorhome, damp below window

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Hello all, we are looking to buy our first motorhome and I've looked at quite a few. The one in question ticks all the right boxes apart from some damp I spotted below one of the windows. I suspect either the seal has gone around the window. My question is whether it looks like it has been caught in time? Its a 2012 Chausson Flash 03. I've been wondering about a hab check but someone else I know has said they are a waste of time and having read through all the exclusions in the terms, I'm inclined to agree. Although glad to hear others views and or recommendations. Many thanks Jon

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Hello all, we are looking to buy our first motorhome and I've looked at quite a few. The one in question ticks all the right boxes apart from some damp I spotted below one of the windows. I suspect either the seal has gone around the window. My question is whether it looks like it has been caught in time? Its a 2012 Chausson Flash 03. I've been wondering about a hab check but someone else I know has said they are a waste of time and having read through all the exclusions in the terms, I'm inclined to agree. Although glad to hear others views and or recommendations. Many thanks Jon

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Run a mile, that looks like a nightmare.

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There’s plenty of vans out there why mess about with a damp one, you will get that length and layout in plenty more motorhomes.
It’s going to cost you money before you even buy it.
I agree
Our MH (2008 Elddis autoquest 140) (that we're chopping in for an Autosleeper Dorset with Oaktree) has damp and we never even knew! Couldn't see it, couldn't smell it....bought from a dealer with a clean hab check last July (inc damp check) and looks as though one of the seals on the side of the roof has a tiny split.
Damp meter recorded 39-45% moisture in that area but everywhere else as dry as a bone

£1,800 to fix but luckily they're charging £1k within the deal (and yes, did get 2 further quotes which were within a similar region) Needs side panel taking off and new wood to the affected areas

So even if you can't see it or smell it, test it anyway. £80 meter can save you a lot in the long run on a new purchase plus, you'll keep on top of any issues before they spread
 
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You need to buy a damp meter 👍A £12/20 one could save you £000s Looking at your pics it could be leaking from the top joint (take step ladder and look for hairline cracks ) window again have a good look around it or the electric flap.The other possibility is leak from the boiler 😳 The damp meter will point you towards the right direction.
Years ago I bought a damp van (I mean soggy) and knocked the guy down from a cheap£10 k to 6 k👍😊After ripping it all out and doing it I should have paid 3k 😁Either gets lots off or walk away. IF you go ahead Make sure boiler fridge cooker etc all work as they are all expensive to replace
 
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It did indeed have a hab check although I dont think it was worth the paper it was written on, as claimed no damp. I know it is in close alignment with the power inlet but I think it might be coming from the window seal as there is a stain slightly to the left and above of where power inlet is. Would be very appreciative of any local funster near me, if not this one then for another one
 
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It did indeed have a hab check although I dont think it was worth the paper it was written on, as claimed no damp. I know it is in close alignment with the power inlet but I think it might be coming from the window seal as there is a stain slightly to the left and above of where power inlet is. Would be very appreciative of any local funster near me, if not this one then for another one
Swifty, what was the layout of that motorhome? Just run like Linford Christie on that one.

There are motorhomes out there that are bone dry for all their lives.
 
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Ideally want a big bed above cab, transverse bunk beds for my five and two year old girls in back and ideally captains seats without a pointless 6 bed conversion/dining seat table thing

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Something like this is probably ideal although bunk beds only 1.8m long

The Hymer is quite old so I understand your caution.

Look for a Hymer 644 on the X244 Fiat chassis (2002 to 2007) they are bomb proof, we had one and it was so versatile. You could tow a car trailer to a classic car meeting and it was not out of place, you could take it down the beach with the kids and it would stand up to the abuse, you could go to idyllic French aires right on the beaches and it done it all well.

It was bone dry as well, I regretted selling that 644 but it had to go to fund other projects. Got a Niesmann Arto now some 6 years later, it is a slightly different animal but so far we have loads of fun with it. The only wood in these two motorhomes is in the furniture, really hard to go rotten.

Don't bother with hab checks, just allow yourself plenty of time (maybe 6 hours) to check everything yourself.
 
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Given an older Hymer with a rust issue or a newer Chausson with a damp issue, I'd pick the Hymer every day.

Be aware with any 6 berth/seat vehicle, (whomever it's made by), if it's under 3,500 kg you are very unlikely to actually be able to take 6 people plus all their kit and keep it under 3,500 kg.

So if it's a 6 berth van you are looking for, payload will be you first consideration.
Do you have a C1 Licence, that permits you to drive a van plated at over 3,500 kg ??
It seems some dealers and many private sellers 'forget' this critical consideration.

You could either end up with a van that will take 6 people, plus their kit, but you can't legally drive it or insure it.
or
You end up with a van that as soon as 6 people are inside, there is no payload available to actually take any clothing, food, bedding, toys etc.

Have a look on the Buying a van area, there are several articals on Payload, it's critical that you know this information. (Get a weighbridge certificate before you part with hard earned cash!)
 
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Many thanks, yes I'm aware. Only need a 4 berth and ideally don't want the rear facing seats anyway. I passed my test in 2001 so dont have C1

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Many thanks, yes I'm aware. Only need a 4 berth and ideally don't want the rear facing seats anyway. I passed my test in 2001 so dont have C1
I know this may seem a bit extreme but have a think about upgrading your driving license, having another 500Kg or so to play with makes things so much easier, you just throw everything that the kids need/want in.

I could not deal with 3500Kg and remember that the vehicle tax is cheaper when you have a private HGV such as a 3850 or 4000 kg motorhome, I am pretty sure that the tax is £160, someone will correct me on that I am sure.
 
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I know this may seem a bit extreme but have a think about upgrading your driving license, having another 500Kg or so to play with makes things so much easier, you just throw everything that the kids need/want in.
That´s OK if you do mostly UK travel, come down towards Austria, Italy, Switzerland etc then it gets expensive with tolls when over 3500
 
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They don't check when I was last in Switzerland, I just went up to border control and bought a motorway pass, pointed at the Hymer 644 (3850 kg) and they gave me a regular motorway pass, that was going into Switzerland from France over near Geneva.

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Even with just 2 of us the extra payload on our up-plated van is worth it. 2 big adults, 2 electric bikes, 2 kayak and all the gear means 3500 maximum weight won't do it for us.

I would say it may well be worth trying to get a C1 license. Try asking your local HGV driving school - there also used to be a member here who owned a driving school. I looked at enrolling my daughter a few years back (around the £1000 mark all in I think) but then her employer paid for it all - she did all the training and passed the test within a week.
 
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Hello all, we are looking to buy our first motorhome and I've looked at quite a few. The one in question ticks all the right boxes apart from some damp I spotted below one of the windows. I suspect either the seal has gone around the window. My question is whether it looks like it has been caught in time? Its a 2012 Chausson Flash 03. I've been wondering about a hab check but someone else I know has said they are a waste of time and having read through all the exclusions in the terms, I'm inclined to agree. Although glad to hear others views and or recommendations. Many thanks Jon

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As most people say, forget it. I have had two motorhomes with damp problems. The first was an Autocruise, 3 years old and immaculate, bought from a certain dealer with a bad reputation which we didn’t know at time. When due for habitation check did not let them do it but sent to Camper UK who rang me to say water ingress round lockers. It transpired that Swift had forgotten to put rubber seals round lockers BUT on looking on Google, they had also forgot to seal floor to skirt on hundreds of motorhomes. On looking underneath we could push our finger through floor all round edge! The certain dealer took it back and put it straight back on the forecourt without touching it. We had had the front sprayed maroon and silver to match the logo but dealer sprayed it back white so presumably no one would recognise it. The second was the Elddis we have just sold. We didn’t know until we saw paperwork after buying that it had just had a damp repair under Warranty. The cause was water coming from a drain hole on roof which then entered the BBQ underneath which obviously hadn’t been sealed properly.
Although the damp had been cut out, I didn’t trust it so we put a piece of plastic over top so water ran off. Have now bought a PVC where it is not covered in silicone and, hopefully, will not have damp issues. Buy yourself a damp meter and check every van you look at even if it is brand new.

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If you cannot get an inspection at the site, with the agreement of the seller you may be able to drive it with him to the specialist. If you take it there they will probably be able to examine it straight away.
I think it is worth perusing if you like that vehicle.
I think it otherwise looks a lovely vehicle and I love the Ford engine. It does not look particularly cheap however to my inexpert gaze.
Have you used the damp to get much of a reduction?
Let us know how you get on and good luck.
Paulus
 
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Our first mh was a flash 3 it was pretty good. I'd keep them in mind but look for a different one. I wonder if there's a weeping joint on a tap or the pipework that's caused that damp. It would put me off.
 
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I went back with my damp meter. Almost certainly an issue with the window rubber. It was cracked and siliconed in places. Damp readings zero above window. However, there was also damp in the back. Coincided with bike rack fixings and also more alarming, in rear corner on drivers side which I couldn't see any logical reason why. Possibly also from bike rack but too risky for me.
 
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I went back with my damp meter. Almost certainly an issue with the window rubber. It was cracked and siliconed in places. Damp readings zero above window. However, there was also damp in the back. Coincided with bike rack fixings and also more alarming, in rear corner on drivers side which I couldn't see any logical reason why. Possibly also from bike rack but too risky for me.

Sometimes a bike rack isn't fixed correctly to the reinforced mounts provided by the Converter. Lord knows why the idiot dealers do this. That causes undue stresses and flexing on the back panel and the sealant on the panel joints will fail. I understand renewing window seals on its own is a simple job for a caravan/MH mobile engineer. The bigger question will be how far the damp extends, and how long this has been happening, because that can mean much more expensive work to replace rotten timber and dry out /replace waterlogged insulation.

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I went back with my damp meter. Almost certainly an issue with the window rubber. It was cracked and siliconed in places. Damp readings zero above window. However, there was also damp in the back. Coincided with bike rack fixings and also more alarming, in rear corner on drivers side which I couldn't see any logical reason why. Possibly also from bike rack but too risky for me.
There will always be another, I think your membership on here was money well spent.
 
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