Lithium vs. Conventional Batteries: Which is Better?

[Petroleumblownapart]

I think most people would agree that Lithium is better than lead acid. More power, smaller, lighter. However down side is cost and making sure your chargers are capable of charging lithium that has specific charging requirements. Unless you have serious electric requirements a lead acid will do the job fine.

Cost per Watt is considerably cheaper over the 10 years minimum expected lifespan. Say £50 per year battery cost compare it to a leisure battery which has voltage drop off quickly and can't be run down to 10% and weighs twice as much for half the capacity, charges slower and takes up the same space. Agreed lithium cost more initially and need correct charging systems but if you have the Dosh it's a no-brainer really. They are not the expensive option!

 

[Speve]

If it were possible to just buy a lithium battery and drop it straight in, I'd consider it when a new leisure battery was needed... but I doubt that's possible

Fogstar say you can

Lithium Leisure Batteries for Campervans

When researching the market, we noticed it’s not just price that’s been a barrier for campervan owners looking to upgrade to Lithium, but people also think it’s outrageously complex too. If you're thinking your van needs an entire electrical systems upgrade - hold that thought, and read this...

www.fogstar-drift.co.uk

 

[Garry - June]

Quite a few claiming a B2B is essential... no it isn't it depends what type of van you have.. on mine the only change i made was to alter my Solar controllers to Lithium settings and thats it..nothing else and all working perfectly.

 

[Petroleumblownapart]

Quite a few claiming a B2B is essential... no it isn't it depends what type of van you have.. on mine the only change i made was to alter my Solar controllers to Lithium settings and thats it..nothing else and all working perfectly.

Presume then that your engine does not charge your lithium or you have a smart alternator? Or your engine and lithium are in parallel?

 

[Speve]

Presume then that your engine does not charge your lithium or you have a smart alternator? Or your engine and lithium are in parallel?

I think you will find you need to ensure the EBL is set to Gel as well

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[VXman]

Cost per Watt is considerably cheaper over the 10 years minimum expected lifespan. Say £50 per year battery cost compare it to a leisure battery which has voltage drop off quickly and can't be run down to 10% and weighs twice as much for half the capacity, charges slower and takes up the same space. Agreed lithium cost more initially and need correct charging systems but if you have the Dosh it's a no-brainer really. They are not the expensive option!

Lead acid can last too if treated well. My 2010 Megane car battery is still original. 13 years and still healthy.

 

[Mark Brenton]

I think most people would agree that Lithium is better than lead acid. More power, smaller, lighter. However down side is cost and making sure your chargers are capable of charging lithium that has specific charging requirements. Unless you have serious electric requirements a lead acid will do the job fine.

 

[The Wino]

Cost per Watt is considerably cheaper over the 10 years minimum expected lifespan. Say £50 per year battery cost compare it to a leisure battery which has voltage drop off quickly and can't be run down to 10% and weighs twice as much for half the capacity, charges slower and takes up the same space. Agreed lithium cost more initially and need correct charging systems but if you have the Dosh it's a no-brainer really. They are not the expensive option!

It depends though on if you need all those watts and how often you change the MH. We will have had ours 10 years next year I suspect we're in a small minority especially in the ones where people are putting in big lithium installs. There will be some retained value when selling but I suspect only a small fraction of the outlay. It always surprises me when people think there's a straightforward answer to whats best without all the information.
I would suggest if someone wants to be mainly off grid for long periods without travelling with an inverter lithium and lots of solar. If it's off grid an inverter travel every say 3 days b2b lithium less solar, if it's no inverter, hardly any TV travel every day ( us) lead acid small solar no b2b works just fine.

 

[our poppy llll]

Interesting route...

F,H,B,D,PL, A,CH, I, F, E, P, F,

By 'H' I assume you mean 'NL' and if so please tell us how you get from France (F) to Holland (NL) directly without going through Belgium (B) .

Yeah! Like I must have been asleep, that’s the first time I put H for NL. Just a min.. ok I’m back to normal now..

 

[our poppy llll]

Just out of curiosity, what payload have you got in your van. The reason I ask is, that 500kgs exceeds a lot of van ACTUAL payload these days. 500 kgs

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[our poppy llll]

1023 kgs and the mass of 3477kgs includes 70 litres fuel, 6 kg gas and 70kg of the driver, it’s plated 4500kgs. Swift Kontiki 794 Grand Prix, so I am well and truly in the black.. I hope..

 

[mikeg40]

my leisure batteries are fine at the moment but I've upgraded the electrics so I can swap in lithium when they get past it. if you plan on keeping the van for a long time and spend a lot of time off grid, lithium worth it but for most lead acid is fine

 

[LesW]

You get nothing from solar in winter

100% wrong.. I get enough power from the 100w solar all year round to keep us comfortable in the UK.

 

[wp1234]

Horses for courses imho. I’ve got a new set of 2x110 Gel batteries and the cost was around £280 for both. I’m hoping they will last a few years and since I don’t use the van too much off grid in the UK winter it suits me fine, in the summer my solar panels easily keep on top of the charging in Europe .
Unless you’re a massive inverter user or watch shed loads of TV every night I just don’t see why spending £1500 is cost effective.

 

[wp1234]

100% wrong.. I get enough power from the 100w solar all year round to keep us comfortable in the UK.

I agree but some folk watch tv all night long which then results in a significant battery drain after a few days off grid .
If we watched TV for 5 hours a night + plus normal lights etc ( we don’t) that would equate to around 30 ah plus per day so in the winter with say 220 amp hours batteries with cloudy skies you might struggle after four days or so .

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Lenny HB]

100% wrong.. I get enough power from the 100w solar all year round to keep us comfortable in the UK.

Obviously a very low user, in winter we use around 60ah a day even our 300 watts of solar can't keep up with that.

 

[dunnah01]

100% wrong.. I get enough power from the 100w solar all year round to keep us comfortable in the UK.

We typically get around 20% yield (from 4kW solar) in winter so can't really get the van heating going and rely on diesel heater so you must live very frugally with 20w

 

[LesW]

Obviously a very low user, in winter we use around 60ah a day even our 300 watts of solar can't keep up with that.

No TV, but manage to keep laptop, and two phones charged but not necessarily at the same time, gas heating, blower (if used) on low.

Our system doesn't show percentages, but when the solar stops charging the 100ah battery settles down to around 12.7 volts, and drops to about 12.5 or so at bedtime, starts again at daybreak, nothing special about our system but solar always giving something even on dull/rainy days.

The longest we have gone without EHU is four days in December. (for a Christmas Market)

 

[Tony Plantagenet]

Mind, there are two types of wet lead acid batteries.

1, Flooded lead acid, which have the removable caps on the top which you remove to check the electrolyte levels.

2, Sealed lead acid, where there is nothing you can do in way of maintenance, there is a big label over any caps on it and it will say sealed.

Both need to be vented outside of the vehicle.

Either of the above should give about 5 years life unless discharged to very low voltages. Typical cost about £125ish.

I don't bother with leisure battery's, just run everything of the one under the bonnet. After all it's only powering lights (all led ) water pump and the telly. I've got a 150 watt panel wich seems to charge it up in no time. Never had any problems in 5 years with this setup. Just make sure it's a really good battery ( Yuasa 6 year warranty)

 

[68c]

I don't bother with leisure battery's, just run everything of the one under the bonnet. After all it's only powering lights (all led ) water pump and the telly. I've got a 150 watt panel wich seems to charge it up in no time. Never had any problems in 5 years with this setup. Just make sure it's a really good battery ( Yuasa 6 year warranty)

The good thing is your setup is simple so less to go wrong. I would probably carry one of those jump start sticks just in case.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[L' Hobo]

The good thing is your setup is simple so less to go wrong. I would probably carry one of those jump start sticks just in case.

Especially in the winter when the battery is less efficient because of the cold.

 

[Raul]

I'm a pretty low electrical energy user. Fridge and heating run ok on gas. I didn't have anything electrically power hungry like an air fryer or curling tongs. But I do work from the van on a laptop, so I needed a bit of reliable power. And my lead acid battery had been abused and had lost most of its capacity. So as I needed a new one anyway, I put in lithium. But it is overkill for me. I can run for about 10 days without any hookup, solar or driving to charge the battery and be fine. Which I'll probably never need to do.

The overkill bit it’s on you, you should spec for your needs, and chose a size that suits. If you oversized more than you need it’s just a upfront cost waste.

 

[Guigsy]

The overkill bit it’s on you, you should spec for your needs, and chose a size that suits. If you oversized more than you need it’s just a upfront cost waste.

I'm just pointing out that plenty of people could get by without lithium. Lots of threads on here make out like it's an essential.

 

[Raul]

I'm just pointing out that plenty of people could get by without lithium. Lots of threads on here make out like it's an essential.

And I’m trying to tell you could half the capacity for low usage, not give up on lithium, because low usage. It’s only essential if you require reliable long term power. Lead degrades and sulphates, lithium will be there as you left it, ready to roll.

 

[L' Hobo]

And I’m trying to tell you could half the capacity for low usage, not give up on lithium, because low usage. It’s only essential if you require reliable long term power. Lead degrades and sulphates, lithium will be there as you left it, ready to roll.

But, from what I've read, a lot of cans & can't do if it's only used lightly in a freezing winter?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Two on Tour]

But, from what I've read, a lot of cans & can't do if it's only used lightly in a freezing winter?

My Lithium sits on a heat mat and keeps itself warm in freezing conditions, so can be used to its full potential all year round.

 

[L' Hobo]

My Lithium sits on a heat mat and keeps itself warm in freezing conditions, so can be used to its full potential all year round.

So now, if one is converting to lithium, as well as all the rest of the equipment one has to change, one also needs a heat mat. Get more expensive all the time?

 

[Lenny HB]

So now, if one is converting to lithium, as well as all the rest of the equipment one has to change, one also needs a heat mat. Get more expensive all the time?

Even some of the cheaper batteries like Fogstar have them built in.

 

[Guigsy]

If you're using the van, it's very unlikely it's below freezing inside. For the most part, it's a non issue.

But yes, I have a FogStar with a heating mat, so if it ever needs charge but it's too cold, the mat will warm it up first.

 

[cyberyacht]

If it's too cold for your battery, it's too cold to go motor homing.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}