It's the renogy 30a all in one that does solar too.yes, in general.
purists wont like it but yes you can
what b2b do you have,
The solar is turned off at mo so it's 30a from the alternator, if solar is on its only 15a.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
It's the renogy 30a all in one that does solar too.yes, in general.
purists wont like it but yes you can
what b2b do you have,
Was there any reason that you chose the 100AH AOlithiums over the 105AH Fogstar Drifts that have built in heating ?No they don't, I imagine it's like you say and the bms will just shut them down, but they are crazy cheap at the moment so I can live without heating, I can always use a vivarium pad if it becomes a problem!
wont take too much driving then to top them off, and it sorts the lithiumIt's the renogy 30a all in one that does solar too.
The solar is turned off at mo so it's 30a from the alternator, if solar is on its only 15a.
Fogstar are doing some tests on a quieter fan that will be able to be retrofitted to their chargers.If you want to hear noisy, join the Fogstar Owners Group on FB and listen to some of the videos of Fogstar chargers posted by owners. Now they are noisy.
You’re better off fitting without charging, mainly because that allows you to test the various charging methods (solar, ehu and DC-DC) after fitting. Then you can use any of the charging methods to bring to full SOC.Good evening!
I'll be taking delivery of a pair of AOlithium 100ah batteries in a few days to replace lead acid.
I imagine they will need to be charged to 100% before I fit them?
Would an aldi autoXS charger be sufficient to do this? It has lots of modes but no specific lithium from what I can see?
Like this one
Broken Link Removed
Funny you should say that, I've charged them both to exactly 50% and each cell is within 0.2v so I'm fitting them tomorrow and I'll see how they go while driving next week just using the b2b, then I'll turn the solar back on just to trickle them during the dark days.You’re better off fitting without charging, mainly because that allows you to test the various charging methods (solar, ehu and DC-DC) after fitting. Then you can use any of the charging methods to bring to full SOC.
That’s what I did as I didn’t have a suitable charger available other than the one wired into my motorhome.You’re better off fitting without charging, mainly because that allows you to test the various charging methods (solar, ehu and DC-DC) after fitting. Then you can use any of the charging methods to bring to full SOC.
Can’t say our Multiplus is particularly noisy in fact hardly any noiseSo are Victron ones.
Did you mean 14.6V ? That's a bit on the high side.......... 14.2V or 14.4V max is normal.had the final boost to 14.6v for maybe the last 15 mins
Technically the 14.6v its true, but in real life you cant achieve that without a perfectly balanced pack and voltage calibration. At that voltage you run the risk of overcharging at least one cell. If you care about long term performance, lower the absorb at 14.2v, or even 14.4v if possible. That will give you room for error and you stand a better chance for not exceeding 3.65v per cell.Yep, as I understand it 14.6v ensures the cells are balanced, ie all at maximum voltage.
So like your ‘Give me a man…banner! Agree totesFraid not
View attachment 841731
Just done as you suggested Raul, I'm new to this and don't want to break anything!Technically the 14.6v its true, but in real life you cant achieve that without a perfectly balanced pack and voltage calibration. At that voltage you run the risk of overcharging at least one cell. If you care about long term performance, lower the absorb at 14.2v, or even 14.4v if possible. That will give you room for error and you stand a better chance for not exceeding 3.65v per cell.
I have built few packs by now, and fresh cells takes few cycles to balance out at a lower voltage. You can fully charge with 30-60 mins absorb at under 14v. You don't need high voltage, you need time.
A good compromise victron found that 14.2v gives a reasonable fast charge, a good chance for balance and less warranty claims for them. They been in business for years, and had a fair share of claims in the past. So they changed the old spec 14.4v to 14.2v, yet batteries are the same.
In my opinion 14.6v is only for a bench test with calibrated equipment. I doubt you have calibrated voltage to dish out a accurate figure. Just a thought.
.but they are crazy cheap at the moment
They were reduced from £533 to £249 each! For some reason I got a pair delivered for even less!.
What kind of cheap is crazy cheap ?
And why do they need charged before fitting pls - obviously another gap in my knowledge !
_
Nothing wrong and perfectly normal, you connections and cables will NOT be equal resistance so the one that takes a bit more, it has lower resistance connections. It will even out at the top when fully charged, and as you cycle it will repeat.Guys, I may have a problem with the batteries or the charging
After using the van Saturday and Sunday, all was good with the batteries, but I've noticed today that they are recharging differently!
When I checked this morning one was at 84% and one at 80%, although all the cells were within 0.1v
When I got home this evening one was at 99% the other at 95% but they were charging at different rates, the 99% was at about 14 amps and the 95% at between 6.5 and 7.5 amps?
Is something wrong or do they need a good few cycles to work things out?
Could you guys point me in the right direction for buss bars to clean my setup?Mine are not contributing equally, and they are connected to a buss bar distribution; but it’s close, I’m not overly concerned about that, as long as I get fully charged 1-2 times a month.
These are our go-to:Could you guys point me in the right direction for buss bars to clean my setup?
I currently have 2 100ah batteries connected in the usual fashion, but I have multi fit battery terminals like these-
View attachment 859393
These have various things attached and are far from ideal, now I have lithium they are showing up how its a rubbish and incorrect way of doing it, and it's showing one battery is getting used quite a bit more than the other, eg diesel heater running last night was only drawing current from one battery, low current I know but still less than ideal.
So I would like to tidy up my installation with buss bars to connect the batteries to and then tap my needs from the buss bars.
Anything that's not mad money but is decent quality.
Thanks again.
Daz.